Code 45 car starts then dies??
 

I know that if I had the time and energy, a search may have found the answer, but it's 2:20 in the morning, and this is my daily driver. I drove the car home the night before, and no problems whatsoever, even did a nice burnout when I left. Got home no problems. However when I went to start it today, it started and then died, repeated three times, then just wouldn't start. I have had trouble with my IC module, messed with it, started, then died. Later that night, I took out the IC module and replaced with new one. Same thing. Ran codes with my trusty paperclip, getting a code 32, and 45. Egr and solenoid are brand new. Never gotten a code 45 though which is running rich. I am now wondering after reading extensively through posts that my fuel pump is gone?..Any help would be appreciated, as this car is workin its way to getting a carbed 350. Don't really want to lose the TPI, because I think its cool as hell, but am tired of messing with sensors and all other junk that goes with electronic fuel injection.

a bad fuel pump won't cause a code 45, it can cause a code 44, always lean. what the code 45 is saying is the ECM can't lean the fuel mixture out enough.
look for a leaking fuel pressure regulator, the fuel pressure regulator may be stuck & cause the fuel pressure to be too high, leaking injectors, all of which can cause a code 45 & also cause a no start. the code 45 may be an old code that was set sometime in the last 40 or so starts.
the fuel pump or it's related wiring or relay may have problems causing no or not enough fuel getting to the motor.
your going to need to put a fuel pressure gage on the pressure tap & see what reading you get.

So if it is the FPR, basicly what it is doing to my computer is sayin, "oops there's too much gas, I aint gonna run"...lol....or "BS, you call that fuel pressure?"....I wonder about the fuel pump, because probably 2 weeks prior to this incident, I was having stumbling and shakeing problems when I would accelerate, and it would not idle very well in the cold??

I checked the Fuel Pressure, and it is 100% right on, so obviously that weeds out the FPR....Now I'm thinking relay??..

Well I don't know if anyone will even look at this, but I checked the Fuel Pressure and its not the FPR, the relay and the fuse for the FP is fine...Now I'm still not sure as to why the darn car will start and run for 5-7 seconds, then die....??...

what the fuel pressure doing when it starts to die?

Try this and read the part about the "HEI Shielding":D

and part 2:D

Trickster, you truly are a camaro guru.....Now that I've read the the pages that you posted, I went outside and checked my TPS. Upon inspection, I came to find that the darn thing wasn't even tightened down with the Torx Screws. I have never messed with the TPS since I got the car, and it has always run sort of rich...So now I'm wondering if it isn't the TPS allowing too much fuel to go through and making the ECM shut the car down...does that make sense?? I'm obviously not too patient or understanding of "computer" controlled cars, so the part on HEI shielding looks like greek to me. Anyway, let me know if you think it may be the TPS..

The TPS is a good place to start with your problem. The voltage on it should be .54 volts DC + or - .08 volts. When the engine is running at idle, the voltage will always increase by .02 volts DC. Another good place to look would be you fuel pressure. You didn't mention what it was in your other posts. The fuel pressure should be no more than 50 PSI max. Even then, that is a little high for some systems. Check the ducting for the MAF sensor to make sure it is on tight and has no holes in it.

Well the fuel pressure stays at a solid 45 when primed, and after startup. I know its not the ducting to the MAF sensor, because I just relpaced the MAF a few months ago, and made darn well and sure that it was sealed on the ducting. But just for the sake of lookin I will check that as well. I'm pretty sure that its probably the TPS, since it wasn't even tight, and I could wiggle it very easily. Thanks for the help Trickster

Trickster, I replaced and set my new TPS to .54 volt, and its still the same thing. However I then unplugged the MAF sensor, and it ran for longer but stumbled while idling, then died again. I checked the airducting to the maf and after and it is all fine. However now I'm wondering about the HEI shielding that you refered to in your post, and what exactly causes that??...

O.K. well I got ambitious and started from square one. I unplugged the MAF again, and it started, but idled funny again, however it stayed running until I hit the accelerator??..So now I'm thinking its the MAF again. I wish I could figure this out, because the IROC is quickly workin its way on bein a trade in on my wifes minivan that she wants...ARGGGGGGGGGG

Trickster, I appreciate your help thusfar, and value your opinion greatly. I ended up taking out my Microtek MAF, and putting my old Bosch MAF back on, and voila it runs, however now i'm getting a code 22 for the TPS, and a code 33 for the MAF. I'm starting to wonder if the ECM is going out? I just don't understand why it would keep throwing codes when I get it fixed?..

Check you relays on the firewall right behind the brake booster.I had a code 33 and replaced those relays and it never came back.Also check the wires going into the relays to see if they're loose.

Both relays are new, I replaced them when I put on my new MAF sensor that obviously quit working. I drove it to work and it ran fine, but the SES light keeps coming on and off while accelerating, it seems to have a high idle, and I noticed that my Volt gauge was sitting kind of low for a while. Could my alternator be causing these problems??

BUMP....

Well here's the deal, I took the "new" microtek MAF off and put my old Bosch MAF on, now it runs fine. However now the idle seems high, and my service engine soon light comes on. The TPS is adjusted to the .54 volt, but I keep getting a misadjusted TPS code and a MAF code, forget what numbers. The weird thing is, is when I accelerate and keep the car at say 65, the SES light goes off. Then when I slow down it comes back on?...I'm totaly stumped about this, and I'm wondering if I need a new ECM??

I know this sounds simple, but I don't recall anyone suggesting to clear the codes after replacing parts. Maybe you did this and I missed it.

I cleared the codes by leaving the battery unhooked for a long time....probably more than I needed. But when I hook it back up, and start the car, the codes instantly get put back up.

Re: Code 45 car starts then dies??
 

And another OP that takes off. I say we get them to commit upfront before we start to help, to close the loop and tell us if they solved their problem and what it was. Ridiculous.