Third Generation F-Body Message Boards - I wan't to do the best tune up for my car, anyone can help, their's so many brands...

Don't get hung up on name brands. I've seen some supposedly high-end Accel part that I wouldn't use on a lawnmower engine, and some "cheapo" Wells or generic items that outclass the "good" brands by a factor of three or more.

Spark plugs are like breakfast cereals. We all have our favorites for whatever reason. However, just like cereals, some should be avoided. Get a decent quality, single side electrode resistor plug with a copper core or platinum electrodes. DON'T get any of the designer plugs, such as the Bosch +4 or SplitFire parts. The theories they promote to sell those designs aren't supported by the science. Personally, I also avoid Autolite since they are plagued by quality control problems (like anything else from Allied Signal, such as Fram filters). AC/Deco is O.K., NGKs are good, the jury is still out on Densos. Keep in mind that the ONLY spark plugs that are certified for aviation service by the FAA are Auburn and Champion, and I'll bet you'd have trouble finding a set of Auburn plugs for your car. Does that tell you anything about reliability?

The same with wires. The name doesn't mean much, since different names are printed on the same wire for various brands. The major ignition secondary wire manufactureres are Belden/Cooper, Packard/Delphi, Taylor, and maybe a coupel other domestics. Look at teh construction and materials under teh name. A resistance core, multi-layered silicone insulation, abrasion ressitant outer jackets, and full-length boots with brass or nickel plated terminals are going to be the better choices.

For distributor caps, the same thing goes. Get GRP or nylon molded caps with brass or nickel plated terminals, and deeply molded arc chutes and barriers between terminals. Avoid the bakelite or plain molded thermoset plastic caps with aluminum terminals and smooth interiors.

Use fully synthetic lubricants. Don't even think about using the "semi-synthetic" or Group III "synthetics". "Semi-synthetic" is very misleading. If your quart of mineral oil has ½ ounce of PAO synthetic in it, it is a "semi-synthetic" product. Group III "synthetics are nothing more than highly refined mineral oil, not esters made for different molecules. Stick with Mobil 1, Amsoil, Royal Purple, or Red Line. Avoid Castrol, Pennzoil/Quaker State, Valvoline, or any of the other "synthetic" oils.

For filters, it's hard to miss with AC/Delco, WIX, Hastings, or Champ filters. Again, Allied Signal/Fram has a history of some real quality and design problems.

The PCV valve can be cleaned instead of replaced. Be wary of aftermarket replacement PCV valves, since they may not have the correct springs and pintle desing calibrated for proper flow on your engine. Use a spray type carburetor/throttle body cleaner. You may have other uses for the cleaner as well.

While you're doing all that fluid and filter changing and other maintenance, don't overlook the other parts of a tune-up:

Cleaning the IAC;
Check Throttle Position Sensor voltage and adjust as necessary;
Check/adjust minimum air rate;
Check/adjust timing;
Code scan;
Lubricate the front suspension grease fittings;
Lubricate chassis/suspension bushings, body seals and weatherstrips with silicone;
Check all vacuum and coolant hoses;
Lightly oil the throttle cable;
Oil all hinges, latches, and clean and lubricate the park brake cables (20W oil, not spray lube);
Graphite lube the lock cylinders;
Check lighting;
Check brake and power steering fluid levels;
Inspect the belt(s) and tensioner;
Clean the exterior of the radiator and AC condenser of all debris;

I probably overlloked a few things, but that should be a good start.