Tonight I got my first chance to test the new suspension in the formula. Nothing too fancy, but here goes...
Suspension: Moog 5665/5662 springs, uncut. KYB Gr2/Gas-a-just combo, PST polygraphite a arm bushings. Perfect Circle ball joints, tie rod end links, centerlink; NAPA chassis line idler arm and tie rod sleeves.
Brakes: just stock type stuff, new calipers, hoses, raybestos brute stop pads and shoes, new plane jane iron drums, new wheel cylinders.
I was pleasantly surprised with the stance and ride. Not too high, very solid, level around corners (even without a front sway bar!). I didn't do much agressive maneuvering, but I'm pleased so far.
As for my questions, since the new springs are stiffer than the old WS6s that came out, and since it seemed to do alright without any swaybar, will the original 36mm bar be really overkill? My tires aren't anything great, and seems like the big sway bar and the polyurethane endlinks I've got with it would transfer too much shock to the tires? Not to mention the wonderbar that will be going on soon, if that matters much. Anyhow, any thought on what size swaybar I should try?
Next, I imagine the new pads, drums, and freshly turned rotors haven't been bedded in yet, but despite that, I'm still not very satisfied with the brakes. I'll bleed them a bit tomorrow just to be sure, but it seems to take a lot of movement of the pedal to get me to stop. Is this characteristic of a firebird with the drum/disc setup? Well I'm just thinking out loud. If you've got any advice, I'll be all ears, but I'll try to post more specific info in the next few days - I know I haven't given you much to work with.
Thanks for all your help. After reading through these boards for a while, I've learned a whole lot, and thanks to all of you, its become possible for me to do a ton of work on my car that used to be a complete mystery. Thanks!
Suspension: Moog 5665/5662 springs, uncut. KYB Gr2/Gas-a-just combo, PST polygraphite a arm bushings. Perfect Circle ball joints, tie rod end links, centerlink; NAPA chassis line idler arm and tie rod sleeves.
Brakes: just stock type stuff, new calipers, hoses, raybestos brute stop pads and shoes, new plane jane iron drums, new wheel cylinders.
I was pleasantly surprised with the stance and ride. Not too high, very solid, level around corners (even without a front sway bar!). I didn't do much agressive maneuvering, but I'm pleased so far.
As for my questions, since the new springs are stiffer than the old WS6s that came out, and since it seemed to do alright without any swaybar, will the original 36mm bar be really overkill? My tires aren't anything great, and seems like the big sway bar and the polyurethane endlinks I've got with it would transfer too much shock to the tires? Not to mention the wonderbar that will be going on soon, if that matters much. Anyhow, any thought on what size swaybar I should try?
Next, I imagine the new pads, drums, and freshly turned rotors haven't been bedded in yet, but despite that, I'm still not very satisfied with the brakes. I'll bleed them a bit tomorrow just to be sure, but it seems to take a lot of movement of the pedal to get me to stop. Is this characteristic of a firebird with the drum/disc setup? Well I'm just thinking out loud. If you've got any advice, I'll be all ears, but I'll try to post more specific info in the next few days - I know I haven't given you much to work with.
Thanks for all your help. After reading through these boards for a while, I've learned a whole lot, and thanks to all of you, its become possible for me to do a ton of work on my car that used to be a complete mystery. Thanks!
TGO Supporter
well its usally good to run matching sets of sway bars, but i dont run a front one either and have the stock ws6 rear 24mm bar on.
i am mostly setup up for drag racing, but the car still can handle pretty good.
poly does seems to be alittle harder than normal rubber endlinks so its possible to make the vibrations travel more, but poly is the way to go in most cases.
i say if u like to drag race alot or just mess around at stop lights and such your car sounds to be pretty stable i would just keep it off.
i am mostly setup up for drag racing, but the car still can handle pretty good.
poly does seems to be alittle harder than normal rubber endlinks so its possible to make the vibrations travel more, but poly is the way to go in most cases.
i say if u like to drag race alot or just mess around at stop lights and such your car sounds to be pretty stable i would just keep it off.
Member
How do you like the KYB GR2 struts/shocks? I was thinking of going with KYB to replace original stock struts/shocks (with 70K miles!). Where did you buy yours?
Same here as far as stock disc/drum brake setup. Even with new rotors, calipers, brake pads, rear brake shoes, etc. I dread the day someone pulls out in front of my 1991 RS
There are quite of few threads recently on upgrading to C4, C5, LS1 setups, however, it requires a lot of modifications and access to lathes, drill presses, special brackets, etc. or pay a machine shop to do the modifications. In the interim, I'm going to try slotted rotors and better brake pads to see how much improvement, if any.
I installed an aftermarket wonder bar and ext greaseable poly sway bar bushings this weekend and noticed a slight improvement. You did not mention subframe connectors. To date, SFC's are the best mod for the money that I have done. Like day and night! Minmized or eliminated a lot strange noises!
Same here as far as stock disc/drum brake setup. Even with new rotors, calipers, brake pads, rear brake shoes, etc. I dread the day someone pulls out in front of my 1991 RS
There are quite of few threads recently on upgrading to C4, C5, LS1 setups, however, it requires a lot of modifications and access to lathes, drill presses, special brackets, etc. or pay a machine shop to do the modifications. In the interim, I'm going to try slotted rotors and better brake pads to see how much improvement, if any.
I installed an aftermarket wonder bar and ext greaseable poly sway bar bushings this weekend and noticed a slight improvement. You did not mention subframe connectors. To date, SFC's are the best mod for the money that I have done. Like day and night! Minmized or eliminated a lot strange noises!
Supreme Member
Quote:
poly does seems to be alittle harder than normal rubber endlinks so its possible to make the vibrations travel more, but poly is the way to go in most cases.
Not sure about the ealier models, but i know my car had stock poly endlinks and I know that a lot of the later 80's up had stock poly endlinks also.poly does seems to be alittle harder than normal rubber endlinks so its possible to make the vibrations travel more, but poly is the way to go in most cases.
Matt_Ky,
I really haven't driven enough on them yet to say. They are obviously a great improvement over the worn out monroes that were on there, and so far I'm completely satisfied with them. When I put a few more miles on them, I'll be able to give you a more accurate review of the ride feel and performance. BTW, I got them through summit, about $150 for the set if I recall.
I really haven't driven enough on them yet to say. They are obviously a great improvement over the worn out monroes that were on there, and so far I'm completely satisfied with them. When I put a few more miles on them, I'll be able to give you a more accurate review of the ride feel and performance. BTW, I got them through summit, about $150 for the set if I recall.
Member
MFaulkner,
Thanks. Yeah, gotta be an improvement over factory struts/shocks. Keep us posted!
My 1991 (70K miles) still has the originals
After driving some more yesterday, I notice more improved handling than I originally thought with the TDS Wonder bar and external greaseable poly sway bar bushings. Going to install a set of 1LE nylon end links today.
I plan to do the following this winter:
Struts/Shocks
Ball joints
Outer and inner tie rods, centerlink, idler arm
Rear LCA's
Panhard Bar
Torque Arm
3.42 rear end
All of this to prepare for swapping out the 305 TBI for a 350 (still undecided on FI setup) in the spring. The 305 has been reliable and never left me stranded. Zero problems. Almost hate to replace it, especially with the low mileage!
Thanks. Yeah, gotta be an improvement over factory struts/shocks. Keep us posted!
My 1991 (70K miles) still has the originals
After driving some more yesterday, I notice more improved handling than I originally thought with the TDS Wonder bar and external greaseable poly sway bar bushings. Going to install a set of 1LE nylon end links today.
I plan to do the following this winter:
Struts/Shocks
Ball joints
Outer and inner tie rods, centerlink, idler arm
Rear LCA's
Panhard Bar
Torque Arm
3.42 rear end
All of this to prepare for swapping out the 305 TBI for a 350 (still undecided on FI setup) in the spring. The 305 has been reliable and never left me stranded. Zero problems. Almost hate to replace it, especially with the low mileage!