Last week I put in some 24# injectors and a new Holley Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator, and also managed to break the little pigtail off the EGR Temp Switch. So I ordered it and put it in today, got everything back together and now my car won't start. I've got spark, I've tried 35 psi to 48 psi with no difference. It just turns over and over again. Even with starter fluid, got no response. Any ideas on what I need to check next? This is my only car and I have to be at work at 8:00 in the morning.

Put a test light to one of the injector connectors and see if it's pulsing during cranking. If it does this indicates the computer is firing the injectors and you have a bad set.

Back the AFPR off some. It sounds like it's bottomed out. I would set it to 38lbs then change the fuel fouled plugs and start it. You need tuning to run the 24lb injectors though.

John,

I tried the test light and got a solid light with the key on, but while cranking, I couldn't tell if the light was pulsing or if it was a draw of power that dimmed the light. How long, if at all, should the light be out?

UPDATE: I pulled a couple of plugs to see if they had been fouled and they didn't look too bad. I had my dad turn the engine over while I was holding the plug (rubber handled pliers were involved) and it was firing.

I also should add that I've been driving this last week and it has run almost perfect except for the SES light for the EGR pigtail that I broke, so I think (hope) that injectors should be ok

I don't know what size injectors you had in there previously, but if you went up a size you might need to get a chip burned that will properly recognize them. Just a thought!!!!!!!

The Trickster!!!!!!!!!!!!

The test light shouldn't light at all UNTILL you crank. You probably hooked it up wrong. You need to connect BOTH leads of the light to the connect, NOT one end to ground.

For a cheap "noid light" I solder two wires to a 6 volt bulb and insert those wires into the injector connector. I say 6 volt because it's much brighter and is easier to see in the daylight when it's pulsing, I don't care if the life is shortened due to the 12 volts I feed it.

If you are getting spark, the starter fluid should have done something.
I suspect the plugs are fuel fouled. They may still spark when tested out side the eng, but when compression is involved, it makes it harder for the plug to fire.

Ok, we changed the plugs, lowered to fuel pressure to 38 psi, and finally got her running. But now it feels like it's missing. I pulled each individual plug wire to see if I could find, pulled 1,3, and 5 and the car died each time. Went to the other side, pulled 8, 4, and 2 and there wasn't even a change in idle. It's like the whole side is gone, what would cause that?

All the injs fire at the same time. There may be 2 drivers (one for each bank) or maybe there's only one driver inside the ECM. Not sure abt that.

If there's 2 drivers, one may be bad.

Did you install "low impedence" injectors? If so, that may have blown a driver in the ECM.

Run the eng for a little bit, then quickly pull plugs 8,4 and 2. See if they are wet with fuel. If they are wet, at least you will know the injs are firing.

I'll have to check the plugs tomorrow afternoon.

The injectors I put in are Accel High impedance, 24#

IIRC, I believe that you are right about the have 2 drivers for the injectors. Seems like I remember reading about that the other day. 2 Drivers, thus using 2 fuses. If anybody can verify this and/or has any other ideas, please let me know. Thanks.

WooHoo, I found the problem, while I was testing the injector wires yesterday, I must have shorted on out and blew a fuse on the passenger side bank. I replaced a fuse and bam, total perfection. Thanks guys for all your help. I am so glad to her running again.

Where is this fuse? I think I'm havin the same problem as you. I also have the same injectors.

Jason

It's in the fuse panel labeled INJ 1 and INJ 2 I believe.

Sweet, I'll check tomorow!!

Jason