Hedman Long Tube Header Install
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Wichita, KS
Car: 88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.1L Gen III
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Hedman Long Tube Header Install
Well I finally got the long tubes in. Here is my current exhaust system:
$210 Hooker Catback Cut about 3 ft past converter
$303 Hedman coated long tubes
$35 Stage 8 Locking bolts
$15 Felpro 1444 exhuast gasket
$25 Hedman S-extensions 2 1/2
$8 o2 sensor bung
$65 tpis 3 wire o2
$145 exhuast shop y-pipe, press bent
$18 new motor mounts when everthing on the driver side was hitting...
I think that about covers it. The install sucked but now that i think about if it weren't for motor mounts It could be done in a day quite easily. I'm sure there's a way to replace the mounts without taking out the front springs, but I was to pissed at the time to take the time to look it up on here. It probably took my dad and I 4 hours to replace the mounts and get the car back on the ground, and this is on a car lift with a extra tranny jack to raise the motor, and 2 different spring compressors. Maybe its not as bad with the non-WS6 springs. After the new motor mounts the same spots were still hitting, but not as bad.
Modifications done:
With some light tweaking we dented the #4 and #8 primaries to clear the frame. I guess it’s a personal preference, but I see the frame off the car being there a lot longer than the headers ever will be, so we dented the tubes rather than notch the frame to clear. On the bottom of the a-arm mount you must also cut out a chunk of non-load bearing steal to clear(same as hooker LT’s). I had no clearance problems whatsoever with the external oil cooler lines hitting, (hooker LT’s do) although I had to remove an oil sensor by the oil filter for the install.
On the passenger side a hard coolant/heater line was laying against the header. By taking out the bolt on the side and re-drilling the other hole I picked up 3/4” of clearance. The starter must come out to make room for the long tubes, but no mini or lt1 starter is needed for hedman long tubes (needed for Hooker LT’s). Also to install the passenger side I had to jack up the engine, the collector would get stuck on the corner of the tranny. The s-extensions work great on the driver side but go down too far on the passenger side, because you cannot turn them in any direction enough,
Car runs much better now and I’m happy with the results, The install was not much fun, but was better than installing new motor mounts.
I know the mods hate attaching too many pics, but i hate dead links/pictures even more, so these are resized and re-compressed. Same writeup/pics on my cardomain site also.
$210 Hooker Catback Cut about 3 ft past converter
$303 Hedman coated long tubes
$35 Stage 8 Locking bolts
$15 Felpro 1444 exhuast gasket
$25 Hedman S-extensions 2 1/2
$8 o2 sensor bung
$65 tpis 3 wire o2
$145 exhuast shop y-pipe, press bent
$18 new motor mounts when everthing on the driver side was hitting...
I think that about covers it. The install sucked but now that i think about if it weren't for motor mounts It could be done in a day quite easily. I'm sure there's a way to replace the mounts without taking out the front springs, but I was to pissed at the time to take the time to look it up on here. It probably took my dad and I 4 hours to replace the mounts and get the car back on the ground, and this is on a car lift with a extra tranny jack to raise the motor, and 2 different spring compressors. Maybe its not as bad with the non-WS6 springs. After the new motor mounts the same spots were still hitting, but not as bad.
Modifications done:
With some light tweaking we dented the #4 and #8 primaries to clear the frame. I guess it’s a personal preference, but I see the frame off the car being there a lot longer than the headers ever will be, so we dented the tubes rather than notch the frame to clear. On the bottom of the a-arm mount you must also cut out a chunk of non-load bearing steal to clear(same as hooker LT’s). I had no clearance problems whatsoever with the external oil cooler lines hitting, (hooker LT’s do) although I had to remove an oil sensor by the oil filter for the install.
On the passenger side a hard coolant/heater line was laying against the header. By taking out the bolt on the side and re-drilling the other hole I picked up 3/4” of clearance. The starter must come out to make room for the long tubes, but no mini or lt1 starter is needed for hedman long tubes (needed for Hooker LT’s). Also to install the passenger side I had to jack up the engine, the collector would get stuck on the corner of the tranny. The s-extensions work great on the driver side but go down too far on the passenger side, because you cannot turn them in any direction enough,
Car runs much better now and I’m happy with the results, The install was not much fun, but was better than installing new motor mounts.
I know the mods hate attaching too many pics, but i hate dead links/pictures even more, so these are resized and re-compressed. Same writeup/pics on my cardomain site also.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Wichita, KS
Car: 88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.1L Gen III
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Above pic is the #4 primary dent. Below is Driver side A-arms, had to chop off the ends of the a-arm mount and dent the #8 primary on the other side of the a-arm.
Thread Starter
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Wichita, KS
Car: 88 Trans Am GTA
Engine: 5.1L Gen III
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
Ok last one, a few more pics of the y-pipe on the cardoman site here http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...age_id=372439.
Here is the coolant line i had to move, first arrow points to the side bolt, hidden by the header. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND removing this bolt and bending the tab on the line after removing the manifolds, but before getting the headers in. You can move the top bolt easily later, but once the headers are in you cannot get to this side bolt very well.
Here is the coolant line i had to move, first arrow points to the side bolt, hidden by the header. I STRONGLY RECOMMEND removing this bolt and bending the tab on the line after removing the manifolds, but before getting the headers in. You can move the top bolt easily later, but once the headers are in you cannot get to this side bolt very well.
Last edited by Roostmeyer; Aug 7, 2003 at 11:21 PM.
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 726
Likes: 3
From: Northern Kentucky
Car: 1991 Z28
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Looks great....are the headers coated? Its still weird that some people have problems...and some dont, even on the same kind of cars. Guess thats because some of the cars are well into their 'teens in age....sagging mounts, springs, etc. Looks great.......
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 646
Likes: 0
From: P'cola
Car: 1991 Z28 Camaro
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4 that will magically turn into a 6 speed one day.
What is the part # for those s-extensions? And you used these headers right? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...D68460&view=16 I was wondering if the Elite headers would be about the same installation, or if you would need any extensions for it. Thanks for any info.
Lc
Lc
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 1,761
Likes: 0
From: Ailsa Craig, Ontario, Canada
Car: 84 Trans Am
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700r4
uhhh...cylinders 4 and 8 are on the passenger side. i have hedman long tubes....the drivers side went in from the bottom. passenger side had to go in from the top, had to remove the starter and inspection/belly pan
Senior Member

Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 694
Likes: 0
From: Glasgow Kentucky
Car: 04 Vette
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 2.73
I stuffed both of them in from the bottom and only had to ramove the starter and notch the a-arm mount. My trip to the exhaust shop only cost me $45.00 thanks to the flowmaster y I bought with the headers.
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