fuel Pump Replacement
fuel Pump Replacement
The exhaust sytem in my bird is completly welded in. It makes taking the fuel tank out very difficult.
Has anyone cut an access panel in the trunk to access the fuel pump?
Where exactly should I cut?
Pictures?
Also is this a good idea?
Has anyone cut an access panel in the trunk to access the fuel pump?
Where exactly should I cut?
Pictures?
Also is this a good idea?
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I wouldn't cut a hole... I've dropped my tank out twice and haven't cut a hole yet, and wont. Not only do you risk cutting into the tank, but you have to cut the factory steel fuel lines and patch them back together with rubber hose fragments... again, not too safe.
Once you raise the car high up in the back and lower the axle to the ground, the whole exhaust system will slide out. Hopefully they didn't weld the intermediate pipe (cat-to-muffler) to the back of the cat. If they did, you could always do this:
Cut the i-pipe somewhere in the middle where it's easy to get to, with a hacksaw; make a straight cut. Do the fuel pump swap. Get two muffler clamps and a soda can. Cut the soda can so it lays flat. Butt the two ends of the i-pipe together, wrap the aluminum can around the ends, then use the clamps to tie the pieces together. Then drive to a body shop and ask them to weld the pieces together. It'll take them no time at all to weld it, and would probably only be $10 or $20. Most of their time will be getting out the welding equipment and raising the car up.
Some mechanics - not pep boys or autozone or sears or etc - the real mechanics- even have welders.
Once you raise the car high up in the back and lower the axle to the ground, the whole exhaust system will slide out. Hopefully they didn't weld the intermediate pipe (cat-to-muffler) to the back of the cat. If they did, you could always do this:
Cut the i-pipe somewhere in the middle where it's easy to get to, with a hacksaw; make a straight cut. Do the fuel pump swap. Get two muffler clamps and a soda can. Cut the soda can so it lays flat. Butt the two ends of the i-pipe together, wrap the aluminum can around the ends, then use the clamps to tie the pieces together. Then drive to a body shop and ask them to weld the pieces together. It'll take them no time at all to weld it, and would probably only be $10 or $20. Most of their time will be getting out the welding equipment and raising the car up.
Some mechanics - not pep boys or autozone or sears or etc - the real mechanics- even have welders.
Supreme Member
Joined: Oct 2001
Posts: 8,113
Likes: 6
From: NWOhioToledoArea
Car: 86-FireBird
Engine: -MPFI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 3:42
I feel for ya. I would not want to remove the rear end and the exhaust. I would probably do the same thing and chop a hole in the floor but fix everything right and kinda start to tub the car as I would not want to re-weld the hole I choped in the back.
Cut the whole square section out under the back window and replace it with sheet aluminum.
Matt
Cut the whole square section out under the back window and replace it with sheet aluminum.
Matt
My car came cut up. While I agree with TomP that I personally would not cut the hell out of my backend it did make the exchange much easier.
Here are pics of how the previous owner did mine:
Hope it helps. If you decide to do the cuts be careful. You have around an inch (if that) of room between the tank and the steel you are cutting.
Here are pics of how the previous owner did mine:
Hope it helps. If you decide to do the cuts be careful. You have around an inch (if that) of room between the tank and the steel you are cutting.
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,111
Likes: 0
From: Vancouver, BC
Car: '86 Camaro SC, '16 QX60
Engine: 2.8 V6 POWER, 3.5L V6 N/A
Transmission: T-5, CVT
I've also dropped my tank to replace the fuel pump. It took a weekend, and we didn't even have the right tools. I basically jacked the car up until I could slide ramps underneath the tires. Then I put the car down and jacked up the body until I could take everything out. DON'T DO THIS! IT'S NOT SAFE! There's a better way. Get the back of your car up on some heavy-duty jack stands. But put the jack stands under the frame, not the axle. Then lower the axle with a jack until you can take everything out. I'm assuming it's safe to hold the car up by the frame.
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 1,832
Likes: 1
From: Castaic, CA
Car: 1988 Camaro RS
Engine: 2.8L of Raw POWER!!!
Transmission: Stick Shift
Axle/Gears: 3.42's
It's totally safe. While I had the rear end out for the rebuild I supported the car on jackstands set right next to the actual jack points. It must've been up there for about 3 weeks while I did the work.
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