Well my family says I'm crazy.....
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by bigals87z28
dayum!! thats awesome man. awesome job. so sweet man, soo sweet. Makes me want to do it. How big is the compresser you have? And where did you get the oven?
dayum!! thats awesome man. awesome job. so sweet man, soo sweet. Makes me want to do it. How big is the compresser you have? And where did you get the oven?
The oven is nothing more than an old house electric stove. I asked around and was offered 2 for free.
Originally posted by novass
the candy blue is two layers. first chrome metalic 10 min at 450 and 20min at 400. After cooling and application of 2nd color (blue) 15 min at 400.
the candy blue is two layers. first chrome metalic 10 min at 450 and 20min at 400. After cooling and application of 2nd color (blue) 15 min at 400.
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by silverbullet00
Excellent job!! This thread was posted on another board and I decided to check it out as I am interested in powder coating. For those of us who are unfamiliar with powder coating, can you just give us a quick step by step as to how to powder coat something and explain why you use chrome metallic and then blue?
Excellent job!! This thread was posted on another board and I decided to check it out as I am interested in powder coating. For those of us who are unfamiliar with powder coating, can you just give us a quick step by step as to how to powder coat something and explain why you use chrome metallic and then blue?
step 2 wipe down with acetone to remove any residual greese, oil
step 3 pre heat in oven to out gas metal
step 4 let cool a bit
step 5 use powder coating gun (electrostatic charged) to apply powder
step 6 cure in oven the prescribed time
let cool done.
for candy colors you need to apply a chrome type base becaust the candy color is translucent, it give it the depth in the color.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
PCing is deff. nice.. and believe it or Not it does NOT have to be electric. Electric and GAS are just as dangerous.
You ever see sprinkles get on your elements. They spark. at least with GAS your not exposing a direct flame. I know I have a small gas , and electric also..
GAS
I started out with a Eastwood Gun. and That Chicago gun you have. I hated that Gun you have. for a few reasons. The top feed cup leaks like a pig. and the foot pedal. The Only good thing I liked about it over the East wood gun. was the solid metal electrode in the gun. I ended up ripping that one apart and making the Eastwood gun better with that solid electrode.
Now I use the Eastwood gun for Small stuff and a NordsonSystem for mass jobs.
I fyou want any TIPS or Trick help man feel free to e-mail me. also if you want some GOOD powder. Like Tyger Dyrlac, Dupont , PPG etc. e-mail me. I can get it Cheaper then what your Prob paying. and believe me the Quality is night and day diff in Flow characteristics if your using Eastwood or Columbia powders.
e-mail is in sig.
You ever see sprinkles get on your elements. They spark. at least with GAS your not exposing a direct flame. I know I have a small gas , and electric also..
GAS
I started out with a Eastwood Gun. and That Chicago gun you have. I hated that Gun you have. for a few reasons. The top feed cup leaks like a pig. and the foot pedal. The Only good thing I liked about it over the East wood gun. was the solid metal electrode in the gun. I ended up ripping that one apart and making the Eastwood gun better with that solid electrode.
Now I use the Eastwood gun for Small stuff and a NordsonSystem for mass jobs.
I fyou want any TIPS or Trick help man feel free to e-mail me. also if you want some GOOD powder. Like Tyger Dyrlac, Dupont , PPG etc. e-mail me. I can get it Cheaper then what your Prob paying. and believe me the Quality is night and day diff in Flow characteristics if your using Eastwood or Columbia powders.
e-mail is in sig.
Last edited by FSTFBDY; Jan 29, 2004 at 07:51 AM.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Contrary to most beliefs Powder can be cured with open flames. 95% of the industrial market uses Natural Gas or Propane to cure Powder Coated Parts. Powder cures by metal temperature only and not with just air temperature. That is the reason why parts have to be cured for 20-30 minutes in a conventional oven to allow for the heat to bring up the actual metal temperature for powder curing of 8-10 minutes at 375-400 degrees.
Deff. get a Laser Temp gun if you dont have one. and make sure the PART is upto temp.
Deff. get a Laser Temp gun if you dont have one. and make sure the PART is upto temp.
OK, I am very new to this and plan on getting a gun for this. I don't plan on doing anything big, just a few things for myself and doing odd jobs for buddies and what not. My question is, what kind of gun do you guys recommend. or would the gun posted be sufficient?
Are you meaning to just put it in the oven for 5 minutes or so to get hot enough to remove any residue, or what is the purpose of this step?
Originally posted by novass
step 3 pre heat in oven to out gas metal
step 3 pre heat in oven to out gas metal
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From: South East MI
Car: 1992 Camaro RS AKA Big Nasty
Engine: Carbed '79 350 block, 360hp/380ftlbs (flywheel)
Transmission: 6speed from an unidentified 4th gen. ask me, ill tell you.
For anyone else out there, it really is just about that easy to make any metal part look that good. Just remember to start with a totally clean part, then pre-bake it at 450 to outgass it. Outgassing gets rid of the gasses that escape from the metal when heated. Prebaking releases the gas before the powder is on the metal, otherwise you end up with bubbles and fish eyes everywhere. Prebake heavy metals (steels/alloys) for 20-30 mintes, light metals (aluminum/copper/etc) for 10-20.
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Originally posted by TPl383
PCing is deff. nice.. and believe it or Not it does NOT have to be electric. Electric and GAS are just as dangerous.
PCing is deff. nice.. and believe it or Not it does NOT have to be electric. Electric and GAS are just as dangerous.
Also TPI383, Now you have a PC setup!!
I found with the Chicago electric gun that if I used higher pressure like 25-30 psi and basically use shorter blasts, I got good coverage and did not get the residual buildup of powder in the barrel ( if you tilted the gun down you would get a blob of powder pour out from the powder that was not carried out.)
Otherwise I have had no other problems with the gun, no leaks etc. For $59 I was not expecting a heavy duty professional setup. Just like paint guns, your probably going to have to spend $250 + for something that is professional grade.
I may take you up on the powder offer when I get low.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
Originally posted by novass
I may take you up on the powder offer when I get low.
I may take you up on the powder offer when I get low.
also might want to check out some of these links
http://www.powdercoatingonline.com/
http://www.discountpowders.com/index.html
http://www.powdercoating.org/home.htm
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From: Plainwell, Mi U.S.A.
Car: 89 firebird, 03 Avalanche z71
Engine: 5.0 stock (for now)
Transmission: 700R4 auto
Axle/Gears: stock 2.73 for now
Thats one of those moments you can def tell them all to screw themselves cuz they'll never get it, they all think it looks great, then they have to add that remark "No one will se it" then you have to just disown them ok
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From: NW Ohio
Car: '91 RS
Engine: LO3, For now...
Transmission: 700R4
Man, that looks excellent! One of these days I've got to try it. And so what if your family thinks you're nuts? You could be spending money on worse things. My family doesn't have a big problem with the things I do to my car. And it doesn't normally affect my equilibrium or speech.
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
It's not that my famly has a problem with any of it, they just think I am off the deep end!!!!.... and I sort of have to agree..
Last edited by novass; Feb 1, 2004 at 07:48 AM.
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From: NW Ohio
Car: '91 RS
Engine: LO3, For now...
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by novass
It's not that my famly has a problem with any of it, they just think I am off the deep end!!!!.... and I sort of have to agree..
It's not that my famly has a problem with any of it, they just think I am off the deep end!!!!.... and I sort of have to agree..
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From: Grand Island, NY
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: WC T5
Well it looks pretty cool under there. Nice contrast. I pland on cleaning up the kmember and powder coating the control arms when I do my LS1 break swap. Then it will look really purdy under there.
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From: Boosted Land
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: Boosted LSX
You can powdercoat anything thats metal in the oven.
You can powdercoat plastic with lowtemp powder and UV light
you can powder coat MFD board with uv light.
Im sure you can coat a brick...
You can powdercoat plastic with lowtemp powder and UV light
you can powder coat MFD board with uv light.
Im sure you can coat a brick...
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From: Akron, OH
Car: 91 Camaro RS
Engine: L03 for now......
Transmission: 700R4 for now.......
if i were looking into getting an infrared heater, what kind of btu's should i be looking to get? and as for the surroundings, should i build a nice brick housing or would there be an easier heat shielding option
thanks in advance
thanks in advance
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