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My next suspension mod

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Old 01-21-2003, 02:22 AM
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My next suspension mod

I love the look of long racing wheelstuds on roadrace cars and have finally tracked down direct bolt-on (or should I say press-in) parts.

I posted the 12mm x 1.5 x 2 1/2"s long in an earlier post:
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=25139

Here's the clincher- I've finally found some lightweight 12mm x 1.5 "open end acorn style" lugnuts from an import site of all places that will work with the longer wheel studs. These will work on my stock Iroc rims:

http://www.mbautosport.com/product.a...ubcatID%3D7700

This gives me peace of mind having the wheels bolted on well under hard g's.
Old 01-21-2003, 03:12 AM
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You'd be supprised how many race spec suspension parts come out of Japan. You can buy the stuff they use on real GT cars over there. Its crazy. I like the wheel studs idea. Cant wait to see pics.
Old 02-03-2003, 06:00 PM
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
I have done this to my car. 12mm x 2.5" ARP wheelstuds.
Attached Thumbnails My next suspension mod-rear-brakes.jpg  
Old 03-21-2003, 04:42 PM
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Here's a pic with the Kyokugen lug nuts on. Thats a rear Iroc rim on the front with a 1/4" spacer- note how much stud is still exposed. No more questionable safety issue under hard cornering.
Attached Thumbnails My next suspension mod-wheel-studs-0001.jpg  

Last edited by AGood2.8; 03-21-2003 at 04:45 PM.
Old 03-22-2003, 05:16 PM
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I am in the process of installing some 12mm x 1.50'' ARP studs and was wondering what method you guys used to get them into the axle. Thanks
Old 03-22-2003, 08:34 PM
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Car: '87 Chev
Engine: 60*V6
Transmission: DY T700
Originally posted by 383IROC
I am in the process of installing some 12mm x 1.50'' ARP studs and was wondering what method you guys used to get them into the axle. Thanks
Use a light hammer to tap them out, not a sledge hammer- you may bend an axle if you hit it really hard. Mine tapped out pretty easy.

To install the new stud I tapped them in as far as they would go with a light hammer on the back side- just enough for them to stay in place. Then I took a BRAND NEW lug nut and threaded it onto the stud until it grounded out against the axle. At this point I use an air rachet (no impact- but one may work ok on low psi) to troque the knurled section of the stud into the back side of the axle.

Note: I use aprox. one new lugnut for every three new studs I installed- then a switched again to another new lugnut. The threads on the ARP studs are stronger than the threads on the lugnuts, but be careful ot to strip them or force added pressure on them when the lugnut threads start to wear and bind- at this point make sure to switch to a new lugnut and continue. Hope this helps.
Dean
Old 04-16-2003, 03:13 PM
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Car: 87 IROC-Z28
Engine: 305 TPI-New 355 on the engine stand
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton posi-Soon a 9" Ford!
I just ordered my long 12mm studs from Jegs, but went another route with lug nuts. The Kyokugen lugs look good, but I didn't liek the idea that they have a 7 sided hex which requires a key to install or remove them. Keys are too easy to loose at the track.

I found some 12mm x 1.5mm open ended lug nuts with either a 3/4" or 13/16" hex at

http://www.customwheelaccessories.com/lugnuts.html

They are $.78 each, and I bought 25 of them. There is a catch to purchasing from this company though. They DO NOT accept credit cards, only money orders and cashiers checks, or they will ship COD. They also charge $5 for any order under $50. So I ended up paying $17 extra for the COD, under $50 charge, and shipping which made the cost for 25 lugs nuts $1.45 each which is a little cheaper than the Kyokugen lug nuts.
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