Notes on Installation of Hooker Long Tube Headers (2210)
#201
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This is has been the worst project ever. Im on over a week of trying to get these things in. Racindaelky has been helping me and has helped me get a lot done. Only these things are almost impossible. I have coolant all over the ground, oil all over the ground, broken heater control. Tonight I tried to take the header back down so I could remove the oil cooler and the headers got jammed. I could not get them out and ended up breaking some sensor right above the oil cooler. I don't know if anyone knows what this sensor is? Please let me know so I can go buy another part for this stupid car.
#202
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
OP sending unit... u need a engine hoist to get them in... u need to be able to rotate the motor around a single mount bolt.
#203
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For anyone who has read the tips presented from this thread in its entirety should have had zero problems and should have experienced zero surprises.
If you are dumping coolant, dumping coolant, breaking sensors, etc... IMO you have neglected the details and are now paying the price.
Sorry to be so negative but the info presented in the first few pages is so comprehensive that it is sick. All hicups have been documented for others to read about before they get a wrench in hand.
I hope things work out for you in the end.
And yes it is the oil pressure sender/fuel pump cut off switch. Pending your year it may only be a cutoff switch.
If you are dumping coolant, dumping coolant, breaking sensors, etc... IMO you have neglected the details and are now paying the price.
Sorry to be so negative but the info presented in the first few pages is so comprehensive that it is sick. All hicups have been documented for others to read about before they get a wrench in hand.
I hope things work out for you in the end.
And yes it is the oil pressure sender/fuel pump cut off switch. Pending your year it may only be a cutoff switch.
#204
Senior Member
Originally posted by OMINOUS_87
For anyone who has read the tips presented from this thread in its entirety should have had zero problems and should have experienced zero surprises.
If you are dumping coolant, dumping coolant, breaking sensors, etc... IMO you have neglected the details and are now paying the price.
Sorry to be so negative but the info presented in the first few pages is so comprehensive that it is sick. All hicups have been documented for others to read about before they get a wrench in hand.
I hope things work out for you in the end.
And yes it is the oil pressure sender/fuel pump cut off switch. Pending your year it may only be a cutoff switch.
For anyone who has read the tips presented from this thread in its entirety should have had zero problems and should have experienced zero surprises.
If you are dumping coolant, dumping coolant, breaking sensors, etc... IMO you have neglected the details and are now paying the price.
Sorry to be so negative but the info presented in the first few pages is so comprehensive that it is sick. All hicups have been documented for others to read about before they get a wrench in hand.
I hope things work out for you in the end.
And yes it is the oil pressure sender/fuel pump cut off switch. Pending your year it may only be a cutoff switch.
#205
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Maybe you should just unbolt the passenger side motor mount. and tilt the motor over slowly (with a hoist or a jack and peice of wood under the oil pan). That should make it 10x easier to slide it in from underneath... Also make sure your brake line doesnt get in the way, I had to bend mine out of the way and its still too close for comfort.
#206
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Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
Maybe you should just unbolt the passenger side motor mount. and tilt the motor over slowly (with a hoist or a jack and peice of wood under the oil pan). That should make it 10x easier to slide it in from underneath... Also make sure your brake line doesnt get in the way, I had to bend mine out of the way and its still too close for comfort.
Maybe you should just unbolt the passenger side motor mount. and tilt the motor over slowly (with a hoist or a jack and peice of wood under the oil pan). That should make it 10x easier to slide it in from underneath... Also make sure your brake line doesnt get in the way, I had to bend mine out of the way and its still too close for comfort.
#207
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
i know that i put mine in withthe motor, but i know that i could easily get them in and out, with a/c box and everything...
the few snags i ran into only included k member clearence... still can't get that slip fit pipe to stop leakin tho lol
good luck dude, seems like ur just havin a tough time of things... calm down a bit and just take it one step at a time... i know that you have to tip the motor alot, and if you have to, undo the tranny mount too.
Steve
the few snags i ran into only included k member clearence... still can't get that slip fit pipe to stop leakin tho lol
good luck dude, seems like ur just havin a tough time of things... calm down a bit and just take it one step at a time... i know that you have to tip the motor alot, and if you have to, undo the tranny mount too.
Steve
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Car: 86 Trans Am
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350, 4200
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3.89
Originally posted by 383backinblack
my hooker super comps fit right in, i put them in while the motor was going in, otherwise you cant get them in or out. However, i didnt have to modify anything and i used a stock size starter. I just ground a small notch in the bellhousing to slip the bump on the starter nose through
my hooker super comps fit right in, i put them in while the motor was going in, otherwise you cant get them in or out. However, i didnt have to modify anything and i used a stock size starter. I just ground a small notch in the bellhousing to slip the bump on the starter nose through
Originally posted by Momar
Same here. Headers went in while motor went in. Didnt have to modify anything. I dont know if I could get them out if I wanted or not, havent tried. I am also using the stock starter. It was a tight fit but I put it in after the headers were in. I just bought a LT1 and figure since I wont be doing anything with it for a while I may stick the starter on this motor for now anyway just so it is further away from the hot headers.
Ben
Same here. Headers went in while motor went in. Didnt have to modify anything. I dont know if I could get them out if I wanted or not, havent tried. I am also using the stock starter. It was a tight fit but I put it in after the headers were in. I just bought a LT1 and figure since I wont be doing anything with it for a while I may stick the starter on this motor for now anyway just so it is further away from the hot headers.
Ben
Trevor
#209
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
i installed my headers when i dropped the motor in... just tuck them in and have a few people hold them in place and guide the motor around th eheaders as you drop the engine down.... very easy
#210
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
WOW SOUNDS GREAT
man traxion that really sounds good ...we used a set of the headman shorty headers and matching y pipe then used 3 inch exhaust all the way back to a no name free flow muffler....it sounds good but nothing compared to yours...
#211
Senior Member
Well we are still working on these headers. Racindaelky and I probably have over 15 hours into it. So far: Drivers side is in. Knock sensor is relocated there. Oil cooler lines removed. Passenger side header is not bolted up(had it bolted up, but took it off and now it won't bolt back up) Starter is in there already and herder is just sitting there. For some reason we can only get some of the bolt holes lined up, but not all of them at the same time. We were having a problem with the slip tube lining up as well. I just took the motor mount bolt back out, which was really hard to do and I don't know if I am going to be able to get it back in. I just don't understand why this seems to be a little bit of work but it is not working out that way. All I really have to do is get the bolts in, tighten a couple spark plugs, put wires back on and fill with coolant and be finished. It doesn't seem to be quite that easy though.
Can I run regular AC Delco plugs and regular wires with these headers also?
BTW we also removed the whole A/C system while we were at it and I also have no emissions equipment. I thought it would be a whole lot easier.
Can I run regular AC Delco plugs and regular wires with these headers also?
BTW we also removed the whole A/C system while we were at it and I also have no emissions equipment. I thought it would be a whole lot easier.
#212
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
I was just thinkin bout all the problems we had on my friends GTA installing a set of SLP shorties about a year ago... the car had been wrecked a couple times. Well, i found him a formula chassis in great shape. So over the past two weeks we've been putting everything from the gta into the formy, like suspensions, motor, trans, exhuast etc...
Come to find out, there was a massssive crack in the trans tunnel on the GTA, and we had all sorts of issues with clearence between the crossmemeber and the flanges on the headers!!!
We ended up heating up the crossmember in the areas they didnt fit, and pounding it in to provide clearence... we blamed it on crappy SLP products. Well, low and behold (the formy has all original body panels on it, so its never been hit or atleast hit hard unlike the GTA) the headers went right in with no clearence issues what so ever!!!
So, what i'm getting at here, is that there might be the possibility that your frame is tweaked (doesnt take much on these cars) and that is making it tough to get your headers in. Not saying it IS the case, but mine went into my firebird just like the instructions stated, i had to grind a little here and there but nothing major at all!
Good luck,
Steve
Come to find out, there was a massssive crack in the trans tunnel on the GTA, and we had all sorts of issues with clearence between the crossmemeber and the flanges on the headers!!!
We ended up heating up the crossmember in the areas they didnt fit, and pounding it in to provide clearence... we blamed it on crappy SLP products. Well, low and behold (the formy has all original body panels on it, so its never been hit or atleast hit hard unlike the GTA) the headers went right in with no clearence issues what so ever!!!
So, what i'm getting at here, is that there might be the possibility that your frame is tweaked (doesnt take much on these cars) and that is making it tough to get your headers in. Not saying it IS the case, but mine went into my firebird just like the instructions stated, i had to grind a little here and there but nothing major at all!
Good luck,
Steve
#213
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Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
Re: WOW SOUNDS GREAT
Originally posted by thegeneral
man traxion that really sounds good ...we used a set of the headman shorty headers and matching y pipe then used 3 inch exhaust all the way back to a no name free flow muffler....it sounds good but nothing compared to yours...
man traxion that really sounds good ...we used a set of the headman shorty headers and matching y pipe then used 3 inch exhaust all the way back to a no name free flow muffler....it sounds good but nothing compared to yours...
Tim
#214
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
i have some sounds clips of my car, and some video with some decent sounds... check it out on my website...
www.ss-perf.com/cars.htm
click on steve's 91 Trans Am...
Steve
www.ss-perf.com/cars.htm
click on steve's 91 Trans Am...
Steve
#215
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Car: '89 IROC-Z
Engine: Canfield 195 headed 358ci
Transmission: TH350, Art Carr 9.5"
Axle/Gears: 3.92 Dana 44
Originally posted by Thirdgen86TA
Well we are still working on these headers. Racindaelky and I probably have over 15 hours into it. So far: Drivers side is in. Knock sensor is relocated there. Oil cooler lines removed. Passenger side header is not bolted up(had it bolted up, but took it off and now it won't bolt back up) Starter is in there already and herder is just sitting there. For some reason we can only get some of the bolt holes lined up, but not all of them at the same time. We were having a problem with the slip tube lining up as well. I just took the motor mount bolt back out, which was really hard to do and I don't know if I am going to be able to get it back in. I just don't understand why this seems to be a little bit of work but it is not working out that way. All I really have to do is get the bolts in, tighten a couple spark plugs, put wires back on and fill with coolant and be finished. It doesn't seem to be quite that easy though.
Can I run regular AC Delco plugs and regular wires with these headers also?
BTW we also removed the whole A/C system while we were at it and I also have no emissions equipment. I thought it would be a whole lot easier.
Well we are still working on these headers. Racindaelky and I probably have over 15 hours into it. So far: Drivers side is in. Knock sensor is relocated there. Oil cooler lines removed. Passenger side header is not bolted up(had it bolted up, but took it off and now it won't bolt back up) Starter is in there already and herder is just sitting there. For some reason we can only get some of the bolt holes lined up, but not all of them at the same time. We were having a problem with the slip tube lining up as well. I just took the motor mount bolt back out, which was really hard to do and I don't know if I am going to be able to get it back in. I just don't understand why this seems to be a little bit of work but it is not working out that way. All I really have to do is get the bolts in, tighten a couple spark plugs, put wires back on and fill with coolant and be finished. It doesn't seem to be quite that easy though.
Can I run regular AC Delco plugs and regular wires with these headers also?
BTW we also removed the whole A/C system while we were at it and I also have no emissions equipment. I thought it would be a whole lot easier.
No offense to ya but I dont think you're looking at the "big picture." Get under the car with a huge light and stare at the passenger header, wiggle it around, and you WILL see that its hitting something. The a-arm mount by the slip tube, the brake line that runs across the k-member, the starter, all could be interfering. Check each and every spot over and over again. The slightest interference will screw you up good. My brake line was the biggest PITA for me and is still far too close to the header for comfort - Thats why this weekend when I pull out my transmission i'm also going to yank the headers out and completely re-route the lines.
#216
Senior Member
Originally posted by 88IROC350TPI
I had the same problem with my passenger side header. I could get the some of the bolts in but not all. Why? because the header was being forced upward by a) the brake line touching it and b) the control arm hitting the slip tube slightly. Then, I had a set of Stage-8 header bolts that have big bolt heads, they were too big and would hit the primary tubes when you tried putting them in.
No offense to ya but I dont think you're looking at the "big picture." Get under the car with a huge light and stare at the passenger header, wiggle it around, and you WILL see that its hitting something. The a-arm mount by the slip tube, the brake line that runs across the k-member, the starter, all could be interfering. Check each and every spot over and over again. The slightest interference will screw you up good. My brake line was the biggest PITA for me and is still far too close to the header for comfort - Thats why this weekend when I pull out my transmission i'm also going to yank the headers out and completely re-route the lines.
I had the same problem with my passenger side header. I could get the some of the bolts in but not all. Why? because the header was being forced upward by a) the brake line touching it and b) the control arm hitting the slip tube slightly. Then, I had a set of Stage-8 header bolts that have big bolt heads, they were too big and would hit the primary tubes when you tried putting them in.
No offense to ya but I dont think you're looking at the "big picture." Get under the car with a huge light and stare at the passenger header, wiggle it around, and you WILL see that its hitting something. The a-arm mount by the slip tube, the brake line that runs across the k-member, the starter, all could be interfering. Check each and every spot over and over again. The slightest interference will screw you up good. My brake line was the biggest PITA for me and is still far too close to the header for comfort - Thats why this weekend when I pull out my transmission i'm also going to yank the headers out and completely re-route the lines.
#217
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: currently 350...BUILT 383 soon
Transmission: T56 w/4.10's
keeping this post alive.... i just finished gettin the T56 in my 91 Z using a SPD crossmember and my next plan is for the exhaust as my 383 is still being built up. i REALLY REALLY want LT headers and for the kind of power my supercharged 383 will be putting out it is a necessity to have a good flowing exhaust. mys car is lowered 2" but will a very stiff suspension and i was wondering if anyone has measured the lowest point of the Hooker LT headers from the ground? these will prob be my lowest point as i plan to get a custom oval y pipe to connect to the 4" Mufflex catback i will be buying soon.
also incase the headers are too low, is there any way of an exhaust shop bending the collectors upwards at all? i have a tubular K member and A-arms (incase that will be affected), would there be any clearancing problems?
my VERY LAST resort would be to raise the car which i DO NOT want to do. the only raising i would consider at this point is the old fashoined ******* rear end raising to give the car that mean looking stance
also incase the headers are too low, is there any way of an exhaust shop bending the collectors upwards at all? i have a tubular K member and A-arms (incase that will be affected), would there be any clearancing problems?
my VERY LAST resort would be to raise the car which i DO NOT want to do. the only raising i would consider at this point is the old fashoined ******* rear end raising to give the car that mean looking stance
#218
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
stock style zz3 oil pan (same dimention as our stockers)
this is a pick of how low they hang below the oilpan on my engine... trickflow heads, but i believe the exhuast ports are in the standard place...
http://home.zebra.net/~stevesoares/w...P1001223aa.jpg
My car will be lowered when it comes home from the body shop tommorow, once the springs are in i will measure... even with the drop, i dont believe the headers will be the problem. the y-pipe hnags much lower than the headers
Steve
this is a pick of how low they hang below the oilpan on my engine... trickflow heads, but i believe the exhuast ports are in the standard place...
http://home.zebra.net/~stevesoares/w...P1001223aa.jpg
My car will be lowered when it comes home from the body shop tommorow, once the springs are in i will measure... even with the drop, i dont believe the headers will be the problem. the y-pipe hnags much lower than the headers
Steve
#219
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: currently 350...BUILT 383 soon
Transmission: T56 w/4.10's
oh man...last i looked my car was damn low and i think the oil pan was about 5 maybe 6 inches off the ground hopefully higher. but my T56 crossmember was the lowest point of my entire underbody except for that plastic air scoop or guard underneath the front of the car. im gonna go measure when i get the chance later today, i really need and want LT headers with 1 3/4 primaries.
#220
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
Re: Re: WOW SOUNDS GREAT
Originally posted by TRAXION
There's nothing in this world like a healthy cam. A big 'ol cam will make a healthy exhaust sound absolutely incredible.
Tim
There's nothing in this world like a healthy cam. A big 'ol cam will make a healthy exhaust sound absolutely incredible.
Tim
this is what were lookin at i know its kinda pricey but man imagine the power it can put out http://www.twistdisc.com/id14.html
also were gonna have to rework every aspect of the rear suspension to make sure we can put the power to the ground or its pointless in my opinoin to even do it what you guys think?????
#221
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Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Originally posted by KagA152
what are you running for motor mounts?
what are you running for motor mounts?
I got a few more pics of my Y-pipe over the weekend. You can sort of see the crossmember a bit as well. They are pretty big so I will just link to em - Dialup Beware! .
Y-pipe picture 1
Y-pipe picture 2
Crossmember picture 1
Crossmember picture 2
EDIT: Oh yeah, and as you can see, the Canton oil pan fits great with these headers .
EDIT #2: I did have a problem with that 13077 Bosch 3-wire O2 sensor.... I am thinking it was either an improperly calibrated sensor or it had something to do with the grounding of the sensor through the exhaust with the headers being coated or something. I ended up going to an LT1 4-wire O2 and it works much, much better. I guess I don't really think the grounding was the problem when you take into consideration all of the other cars running coated headers and whatnot, but it might play a role in it. Either way, going to a 4-wire from a 4th gen (pre-cat sensor) brought my air fuel ratios in line with BLMs that are at least within range for the ECM to work with. With the 13077 I had 128-ish BLMs with a nice and fat 13.2-13.5 air fuel ratio (via an LM1 wideband O2), the 4-wire has me a tad lean with 128 BLMs (or close) but I can deal with that if it is only for idle and light cruise. WOT will trigger PE and air fuel can be adjusted accordingly in those tables... I will be dynoing the car later this week .
Last edited by Matt87GTA; 05-23-2004 at 07:29 PM.
#222
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: currently 350...BUILT 383 soon
Transmission: T56 w/4.10's
Originally posted by fb305svs
stock style zz3 oil pan (same dimention as our stockers)
this is a pick of how low they hang below the oilpan on my engine... trickflow heads, but i believe the exhuast ports are in the standard place...
http://home.zebra.net/~stevesoares/w...P1001223aa.jpg
My car will be lowered when it comes home from the body shop tommorow, once the springs are in i will measure... even with the drop, i dont believe the headers will be the problem. the y-pipe hnags much lower than the headers
Steve
stock style zz3 oil pan (same dimention as our stockers)
this is a pick of how low they hang below the oilpan on my engine... trickflow heads, but i believe the exhuast ports are in the standard place...
http://home.zebra.net/~stevesoares/w...P1001223aa.jpg
My car will be lowered when it comes home from the body shop tommorow, once the springs are in i will measure... even with the drop, i dont believe the headers will be the problem. the y-pipe hnags much lower than the headers
Steve
also i am buying 17" rims wrapped with 315/35-17 tires in the rear and 255/50-17 in the front. will this combo raise my car at all as i currently have stock 16" 91 rims with 245/50-16 tires?
#223
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
To answer on your tires question, no you still have pretty much the same diameter tire as before, you will see no lift from that.
To answer teh ground clearence question. Obviously the body of the car dropped down. I have alum heads and a fiberglass hood, so my car sits a little taller than iron headed stock hooded cars in the front. That being said, i have about 3-3.5" of ground clearence on the lowest point which for me is the y-pipe. The headers im guesing about 4-4.5" of clearence.
Honestly, i've yet to botom out with the springs in the car, mostly because the stock springs were so soft that the car would settle down a lot before returning to its normal hieght.
I've had very little for clearence issues so far.
Steve
To answer teh ground clearence question. Obviously the body of the car dropped down. I have alum heads and a fiberglass hood, so my car sits a little taller than iron headed stock hooded cars in the front. That being said, i have about 3-3.5" of ground clearence on the lowest point which for me is the y-pipe. The headers im guesing about 4-4.5" of clearence.
Honestly, i've yet to botom out with the springs in the car, mostly because the stock springs were so soft that the car would settle down a lot before returning to its normal hieght.
I've had very little for clearence issues so far.
Steve
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Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
Originally posted by Matt87GTA
I will be dynoing the car later this week .
I will be dynoing the car later this week .
But anyways, hit 419.8 HP / 389.7 RWTQ so far...... Brodix is sending out another set of springs and I am going to work on the other little things and head back to the dyno in a few weeks (would be earlier but I have some other obligations to take care of in June).
The dyno staff loved the 4" Mufflex .
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Car: 1966 impala , 1998 sebring vert,1978 buick regal turbo, 1991 chevy silverado 3/4ton 4x4 lifted
Engine: 283, 2.5,3.8 turbo 350
Transmission: powerglide,auto overdrive, th350,4L80
damn sounds like its running strong even with the valve float to get those numbers like to see what you get when you get everything corrected on it ...
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
Originally posted by Matt87GTA
Well, things are still not quite sorted out all the way as I am seeing some valve float of all things at about 6000rpm and it just quits pulling above 6k (it should pull to 6500+).
Brodix is sending out another set of springs
Well, things are still not quite sorted out all the way as I am seeing some valve float of all things at about 6000rpm and it just quits pulling above 6k (it should pull to 6500+).
Brodix is sending out another set of springs
New springs should help, i'm about due to put new ones in my motor...
As for the mufflex system - which muffler did you go with? the spintech or the other one they offer?
#227
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Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
I'll PM ya since this thread is about the install of Hookers and its getting way off topic .
#228
has anyone had any experience with or have any idea of the chances of installing these headers with moroso solid motor mounts? i believe the motor sits about an inch lower than with stock mounts any reply would be appreciated thanks....
#229
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
only issue i can see is having to grind in the mentioned spots a little extra and 1" less gorund clearence.
#230
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Car: 92RS
Engine: LS 402 inwork
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt,3:73's
Originally posted by ChevyCamaro4lif
REALLY NEED AN ANSWER TO THIS.....
WOULD THERE BE ANY CLEARANCE PROBLEMS IF IM USING THE HOOKER SUPER COMP LONG TUBES ON MY 91 Z 350 W/TRICKFLOW HEADS AND....I HAVE PA TUBULAR A-ARMS AND TUBULAR K-MEMBER???
REALLY NEED AN ANSWER TO THIS.....
WOULD THERE BE ANY CLEARANCE PROBLEMS IF IM USING THE HOOKER SUPER COMP LONG TUBES ON MY 91 Z 350 W/TRICKFLOW HEADS AND....I HAVE PA TUBULAR A-ARMS AND TUBULAR K-MEMBER???
NO clearence problems at with this set-up. I installed my motor hoping my LT's would slide in form the bottom, and they do, with plenty of room, heck they almost fell right back down on me.
Here's what the bottom looks like, the headers are not in this pic, just my PA Racing tubular K and my Moroso 6qt pan on my HSR 383
#231
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Car: 1999 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: 6 Speed
Axle/Gears: 9" 4.11 Truetrac
i must say TRAXION, ur car with the LTs, ORY and the 6" round ultraflow sounds amazing! that is the sound i would like to acheive with my car
#232
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Car: 2005 Subaru STI
Engine: 153ci of Turbo Power!
Transmission: 6-Speed
Originally posted by SLP IROC-Z
i must say TRAXION, ur car with the LTs, ORY and the 6" round ultraflow sounds amazing! that is the sound i would like to acheive with my car
i must say TRAXION, ur car with the LTs, ORY and the 6" round ultraflow sounds amazing! that is the sound i would like to acheive with my car
http://www.bescaredracing.com/iroc/exhaust/muffler/
Tim
#233
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What do you guys suggest the lowest to go with these headers my car will be mostly show and some track time. I just dont want to mess them up or scrape on anything.
#234
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Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
stock youd scrape on stuff if youre not careful. i have a prokit on my car and didnt have too many problems. i just never went over anything my air dam scraped on, because i knew the headers would scrape. now the exhaust behind the headers, thats another problem
#235
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Well damn I need some good flow and my air dam always scrapes at the end of the drive way but i need to fix that. You think the slp 1 3/4 would restrict a 383 if i run a cut out it might help also.
#236
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Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
383 is to vague. what cam/heads/intake and everything else you can tell us about the car. but i dont think any body has any good hard proof of what difference there is between the two. if somebody wants to donate to my purpose, i happen to have both sets sitting in my garage right now
#238
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
on my 350, im losing 70rwhp through my exhuast... dual 3" ypipe to a single 3".... food for thought... a custom dual 3" or single 4" will be int he plans fornext year
#239
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Car: 1991 Trans Am
Engine: LQ4
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.70
id be more then willing to do some runs since i have somewhat easy access to a chassis dyno, BUT, i dont have a motor put together and was planning on selling the slps of lessening the pain of the costs
#240
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Car: 91 GTA and 85 IROC
Engine: 355
Transmission: gear jammer
Axle/Gears: 4.11
My problems with header install. Hooker 2210.
Not sure if anyone posted this or if it's assumed, but when I did mine just yesterday, all of the spark plug were removed and I pulled out both sensors in the heads. The passenger side had to be jack up just a little b/c of the brake line one the cross member. But the motor mount did not have to be removed. The driver's side was easier IMO. Even though the Oil pressure sending unit, oil filter AND SLAVE CYLINDER had to be removed. Not all that bad.
#241
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Question for those that have had their heads angle milled, does it cause the headers to interfere in new areas? I have not bought the 2210's yet, but I plan too in the not so distant future. The heads I will be ordering (AFR's) will probably be angle milled to 58cc. I believe the problem would be the heads wanting to tuck in closer to the engine. Anyone with angle milled heads and hooker 2210 have any advice? Thanks.
#243
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Car: 86 Camaro Z28
Engine: 350 sbc goodwrench
Transmission: T-5 in the works
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 3.42 open
Originally posted by David 91RS/Z28
I had my O2 bung welded at the 3 o'clock position if your looking at the collector. Plenty of room with a 5speed. Pic below.
Under chassis pic of long tubes
Also, I didn't have to jack up any side of the engine. Maybe I got lucky. Great write up Trax.
I had my O2 bung welded at the 3 o'clock position if your looking at the collector. Plenty of room with a 5speed. Pic below.
Under chassis pic of long tubes
Also, I didn't have to jack up any side of the engine. Maybe I got lucky. Great write up Trax.
then going all the way back and out, Im thinking why not
just turn them out before the rear wheels.
#244
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
people who try that succefully cut their gorund clearence in half...
the frame is in the way of it basically, besides in most states its illegal to have a side exhaust unless equiped stcok
the frame is in the way of it basically, besides in most states its illegal to have a side exhaust unless equiped stcok
#245
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Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: 383 chevy
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10-bolt, posi, 3.42 ratio
anybody run these headers with an aftermaret oil pan? I'm junking my hedmans because they're too small, and I'm also getting a bigger pan, but i want to know who's running a non-stock pan with bigger capacity that fits with these hedders. anyone?
#246
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
if its only deeper, then your ok...
here is a pic that may help -
here is a pic that may help -
#247
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Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: 383 chevy
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10-bolt, posi, 3.42 ratio
i'm going to add a tubular k-member, but i'm waiting for spohn to make one, first. so for now, I'm looking for some headers that will work better than my hedmans, still fit with the 383 I'm building, and clear a bigger pan. do you have any goround clearance issues with that pan? who makes it? how much?
#248
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Car: 1991Firebird T/A
Engine: 350
Transmission: Modified Viper t-56
Axle/Gears: dana 44, 3.55
thats the stock gm pan....
i have only touched the headers ont he ground once, and it was a HARD dip in the road and i was haulin....
i have only touched the headers ont he ground once, and it was a HARD dip in the road and i was haulin....
#249
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Car: 1982 Trans Am
Engine: 383 chevy
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4th gen 10-bolt, posi, 3.42 ratio
aaaaah. looks bigger in the pic. I'll look at a couple deep pans. if i don't find anything, i'll just scour up a pan i have laying around. thanks for the help!
#250
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Car: 1987 Trans Am GTA
Engine: Miniram'd 383, 24X LS1 PCM
Transmission: TH700R4, 4200 stall
Axle/Gears: 9", 4.33:1
I have a Canton road race pan with kickouts and they clear fine.