Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
#52
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Good call on this pan, Matt!! After some price matching, it was only $160 more than the GM F body stuff I returned to Summit. I think that's some money well spent for piece of mind, let alone not having to spend a day notching the cross member. Nothing quite like a $500 pan on a $350 engine
Here's a bunch of pictures of the Moroso 20142 pan, 22941 windage tray, & 24050 pickup.
Interesting baffle/trap door setup, one trap on each corner. Looks like there's oil reserves for both going and stopping.
I like the oil passages, strait shots.
Here's a bunch of pictures of the Moroso 20142 pan, 22941 windage tray, & 24050 pickup.
Interesting baffle/trap door setup, one trap on each corner. Looks like there's oil reserves for both going and stopping.
I like the oil passages, strait shots.
#53
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Last night I got the windage tray & pickup installed. I like the design of all of it better than the factory stuff. The pickup has MUCH more surface area than the stock slot, and there's less bends in the tube. Also, the mount for the pickup tube is suitable for a Mack truck. This stuff all installed without issue using the factory hardware.
compared to this...
compared to this...
#54
Supreme Member
iTrader: (13)
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
sweet! it's a nice piece. glad you're happy with it. we are going to mock up a wix 51522 oil filter with this pan to see how it fits in the car (length wise). it's a little longer than the factory 98-02 fbody filters.
Last edited by mw66nova; 01-20-2016 at 07:47 AM.
#55
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Unfortunately, the pan wasn't so easy. One day I'll learn to dry fit an after market pan before siliconing everything.
one rail fit great, the other one the holes didnt line up for crap, so I have to take it all back apart, and clean everything, and drill out the holes to make it right. I also have to come up with some hardware. the stock bolts will work for the majority of the holes, but I need something different for the rest.
one rail fit great, the other one the holes didnt line up for crap, so I have to take it all back apart, and clean everything, and drill out the holes to make it right. I also have to come up with some hardware. the stock bolts will work for the majority of the holes, but I need something different for the rest.
#58
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Car: 1989 Iroc Z 5.7L
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Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Looking good!
Subscribed
Be interested in costs since I am planning next motor
Subscribed
Be interested in costs since I am planning next motor
#59
#60
#61
#62
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Edit: Moroso acknowledged the quality issue with my parts, and even pulled some out of stock to fit them to a mock up motor. They believe that my pan was removed from the jig while still hot, and the pan rail shrunk when cooled. they are offering me a break on my next purchase to make up for my trouble. It speaks volumes that they would take care of the situation like this.
I believe this is an isolated instance.
I'll just copy and paste the email I sent Moroso, so you know what I had to do... The moral is dry fit everything...
I believe this is an isolated instance.
I'll just copy and paste the email I sent Moroso, so you know what I had to do... The moral is dry fit everything...
I wanted to write in and show you what I had to go through to make your LS1 20142 oil pan and 22941 windage tray work.
This is going on a stone stock 5.3 that’s never been apart, so I can’t see any good excuse for this. I expected better quality from your products, and I am extremely disappointed with these.
First, just test fitting only the pan, 3 pan rail bolt holes needed to be opened up. I opened all of them.
As you can see in the attached pictures, in the oil filter area there is approximately 1/32” interference between the pan rail and the windage tray, with the tray shifted away from the rail.
With the tray shifted, there is zero clearance on the opposite side of the pan. This wouldn’t let the pan set over the tray.
To make it work, I had to slot all the bolt holes & the tray to get the socket back in. This allowed me to shift the tray towards the starter.
Then, once I had adequate clearance around the oil pump area, I had to remove approx. 1/8” of sheet metal on the starter side of the pan.
After 2 hours of cutting and cleaning, the pan finally went on.
I believe the core issue is that your jig for setting up the windage tray was not set up correctly, as it looks like the mounting strap are cooked in relation to the tray.
I haven’t had this much hassle with a Moroso product in all the years I have been a customer of yours, and I sincerely hope it’s not indicative of your future quality.
Regards,
This is going on a stone stock 5.3 that’s never been apart, so I can’t see any good excuse for this. I expected better quality from your products, and I am extremely disappointed with these.
First, just test fitting only the pan, 3 pan rail bolt holes needed to be opened up. I opened all of them.
As you can see in the attached pictures, in the oil filter area there is approximately 1/32” interference between the pan rail and the windage tray, with the tray shifted away from the rail.
With the tray shifted, there is zero clearance on the opposite side of the pan. This wouldn’t let the pan set over the tray.
To make it work, I had to slot all the bolt holes & the tray to get the socket back in. This allowed me to shift the tray towards the starter.
Then, once I had adequate clearance around the oil pump area, I had to remove approx. 1/8” of sheet metal on the starter side of the pan.
After 2 hours of cutting and cleaning, the pan finally went on.
I believe the core issue is that your jig for setting up the windage tray was not set up correctly, as it looks like the mounting strap are cooked in relation to the tray.
I haven’t had this much hassle with a Moroso product in all the years I have been a customer of yours, and I sincerely hope it’s not indicative of your future quality.
Regards,
Last edited by no green; 01-22-2016 at 10:17 AM.
#63
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Once it did go on, I figured out that you can save some $$ by using your stock bolts on most of the pan.
the side rails are thru tapped, so no issue there.
The front is blind tapped, so i got some thick washers to make up for the difference in pan rail thickness.
Then, had to get some allen heads for the back, and for the filter mount. I highly recommend starting these two M6 bolts first, then start the rest.
This is a stock camaro oil filter.
Here is a picture for reference, see how the sump is behind the third main cap?
The f body pan is quite a bit longer there.
the side rails are thru tapped, so no issue there.
The front is blind tapped, so i got some thick washers to make up for the difference in pan rail thickness.
Then, had to get some allen heads for the back, and for the filter mount. I highly recommend starting these two M6 bolts first, then start the rest.
This is a stock camaro oil filter.
Here is a picture for reference, see how the sump is behind the third main cap?
The f body pan is quite a bit longer there.
#64
Supreme Member
iTrader: (13)
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
hmm, the windage tray fitment is terrible in all fairness, i used and modified a stock windage tray in my car. assembly on Chucky's car was supposed to be tomorrow, but with 2+ feet of snow, i don't think we will get to it.
#65
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Moroso already responded to my email. They believe that my pan was removed from the jig when it was still hot, and shrunk when it cooled. At least they acknowledge the issue.... I'm going to hit them up for some swag, nonetheless.
#67
Supreme Member
iTrader: (13)
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
lol, right on. well there is over an hour and a half drive time between chucky and myself, and with blizzard conditions imminent, i'm not going to mandage chucky drive up here, lol.
glad they're at least acknowledging the issue, although to have fitment issues with both the pan AND the windage tray is much less likely than having a problem with one OR the other.
glad they're at least acknowledging the issue, although to have fitment issues with both the pan AND the windage tray is much less likely than having a problem with one OR the other.
#68
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
lol, right on. well there is over an hour and a half drive time between chucky and myself, and with blizzard conditions imminent, i'm not going to mandage chucky drive up here, lol.
glad they're at least acknowledging the issue, although to have fitment issues with both the pan AND the windage tray is much less likely than having a problem with one OR the other.
glad they're at least acknowledging the issue, although to have fitment issues with both the pan AND the windage tray is much less likely than having a problem with one OR the other.
I think it was just the pan like he said. But, my luck is good enough to have a defective pan and tray, and yet no power ball numbers.
#69
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
made alot of progress this weekend.
Skippy did it got my -10 fitting welded into the drivers side valve cover
and the fitting from Hawks that Matt turned me onto came in
I recycled the fittings from the 355 to make the line for the passenger side of the puke tank, i need to buy some for the drivers.
I also had skippy bend me up some simple coil covers. they'll mount to the coil brackets once I get the right hardware. They are not scratched up, that's a protective plastic sheet over them.
I had the alternator built and converted to a 1 wire, by Automotive Electrical Service, Inc in Akron. I didn't have a starter, so i had them build me one. All the two items cost me was $175. Unfortunately, i told them the wrong starter. Apparently, these LS engines have 2 different starter bolt patterns, so make sure to check. They were cool about it, though, and are building the right starter and going to swap it out.
since the ICT bracket didn't have a way to get a good tension on the belt, I put a bolt into this boss on the alternator, so i can get some more leverage to tighten the belt.
Skippy did it got my -10 fitting welded into the drivers side valve cover
and the fitting from Hawks that Matt turned me onto came in
I recycled the fittings from the 355 to make the line for the passenger side of the puke tank, i need to buy some for the drivers.
I also had skippy bend me up some simple coil covers. they'll mount to the coil brackets once I get the right hardware. They are not scratched up, that's a protective plastic sheet over them.
I had the alternator built and converted to a 1 wire, by Automotive Electrical Service, Inc in Akron. I didn't have a starter, so i had them build me one. All the two items cost me was $175. Unfortunately, i told them the wrong starter. Apparently, these LS engines have 2 different starter bolt patterns, so make sure to check. They were cool about it, though, and are building the right starter and going to swap it out.
since the ICT bracket didn't have a way to get a good tension on the belt, I put a bolt into this boss on the alternator, so i can get some more leverage to tighten the belt.
#71
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Since I'm running out of money, I decided to make the motor mount parts I have work.
This is what was intended, a bolt on...
Since the bolt holes didn't line up, and I didn't want the hassle of all those bolts, i cut down & cleaned up the Moroso SBC mounts.
Then, after i positioned the engine where it needed to be, i burned the parts together.
I couldn't get a decent picture, but there is roughly 1/8" gap between the headers and the frame. The collector is too close to my transmission shield to be able to plumb the exhaust, so i'll need to cut the collector down about 2". Other than that, the passenger side header went in without much issue form the top of the car. I got a lot of wiring ahead of me.
The drivers side went in pretty easy, too. But, to get it into place, i had to remove the steering shaft bolt, and move the joint out of the way. still pretty quick, and it went in from the top, too, with a lot of room everywhere. There is plenty of room around the steering shaft, when it's back in place. All and all, I give these headers an A for fit and finish.
This is what was intended, a bolt on...
Since the bolt holes didn't line up, and I didn't want the hassle of all those bolts, i cut down & cleaned up the Moroso SBC mounts.
Then, after i positioned the engine where it needed to be, i burned the parts together.
I couldn't get a decent picture, but there is roughly 1/8" gap between the headers and the frame. The collector is too close to my transmission shield to be able to plumb the exhaust, so i'll need to cut the collector down about 2". Other than that, the passenger side header went in without much issue form the top of the car. I got a lot of wiring ahead of me.
The drivers side went in pretty easy, too. But, to get it into place, i had to remove the steering shaft bolt, and move the joint out of the way. still pretty quick, and it went in from the top, too, with a lot of room everywhere. There is plenty of room around the steering shaft, when it's back in place. All and all, I give these headers an A for fit and finish.
#72
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
#73
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
I also took a little time to detail the coil packs.
then covered them up...
I mocked the headers up on the stand to get the spark plug and wire situation figured out, and to measure for a diaper.
All of the plugs look to have plenty of access and wire clearance, except for #6 and #3.
#6 is easy to get to, but the stock wire runs into the primary, # 3 isn't that bad to get to, I'm going to get a "wobble" extension for my spark plug socket, and i think i'll be in good shape. but the boot hits the primary pretty hard. I think you can run stock wires on everything but 6 & 3, but will need multi position or 135* boots for those two. I'm going to order a custom set of Firecores, because they help our Renegade series out so much.
Here's a bunch of pictures I took, for reference.
#3
#6
header to block clearance (drivers side)
header to pan clearance (drivers side)
then covered them up...
I mocked the headers up on the stand to get the spark plug and wire situation figured out, and to measure for a diaper.
All of the plugs look to have plenty of access and wire clearance, except for #6 and #3.
#6 is easy to get to, but the stock wire runs into the primary, # 3 isn't that bad to get to, I'm going to get a "wobble" extension for my spark plug socket, and i think i'll be in good shape. but the boot hits the primary pretty hard. I think you can run stock wires on everything but 6 & 3, but will need multi position or 135* boots for those two. I'm going to order a custom set of Firecores, because they help our Renegade series out so much.
Here's a bunch of pictures I took, for reference.
#3
#6
header to block clearance (drivers side)
header to pan clearance (drivers side)
#74
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
He mentioned it was a corvette starter. It was defiantly not the common one... when i returned the wrong one, he went over to a shelf with like 20 of the right ones on it
#76
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
I don't like to run a dipstick, so i found that GM makes this plug for the dipstick hole. I think it's from a Holden application, and maybe even the dry sump stuff.
I got the correct starter, and installed it.
The crank sensor wire was too short on the Smart Spark harness, so I had Nova Tom make me this extension cord.
It'll be nice, because I routed it to the valley pan area, and I can now unhook the crank sensor easily when I need to pull the engine.
Here's some pictures to get an idea of final proportions.
I got the correct starter, and installed it.
The crank sensor wire was too short on the Smart Spark harness, so I had Nova Tom make me this extension cord.
It'll be nice, because I routed it to the valley pan area, and I can now unhook the crank sensor easily when I need to pull the engine.
Here's some pictures to get an idea of final proportions.
#78
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
I don't like leaving the oil in too long, I like to get it out of there, and check for shavings, fuel, and gel. (i run E85, remember.)
While the car is in the air, I check all the fluids, nut and bolt the car, and swap the slicks side for side.
I used to work on a nostalgia fuel team, and that between round maintenance mentality stuck with me...
#80
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Little victory this weekend. The heater box cover had a bunch of holes I wont need, so to clean it up, I made a new one out of some sheet metal I had kicking around.
Then painted it and touched up the engine bay with some fresh semigloss rustoleum.
And i'm setting up a big Summit order, for the last batch of parts i'll need to get this up and running.
Then painted it and touched up the engine bay with some fresh semigloss rustoleum.
And i'm setting up a big Summit order, for the last batch of parts i'll need to get this up and running.
#83
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
I was going to ask you about that. Is the joint up by the column smaller than stock? It would be nice to get the headers in and out without removing it.
Post up some pix of it, and pm me pricing. Right now I'm pretty shy, but I try and plan ahead...
Post up some pix of it, and pm me pricing. Right now I'm pretty shy, but I try and plan ahead...
#85
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Welp... Edelbrock is out of 29087 victor jrs and is a month out...
Last edited by no green; 02-10-2016 at 07:38 AM.
#87
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
I talked to Edelbrock, and they said they 'might' start shipping intakes the first week of March
So, I had summit change my order to a Holley 300-132, which ended up being about $75 cheaper, and will be here in a few days.
in the mean time, I've been preparing.
Old Holleys never die, just get rebuilt. I've had this carb longer than I've had the car... and it's been through a lot of different rebuilds and engines. I lent it to a buddy this fall after my engine blew, and his car picked up a tenth with it
For this rendition, I talked to Eric at horsepower innovations, and he told me to simply re-jet it for this new combination.
while it was apart, I decided it needed another freshen up on the outside, so it looks as good as the rest of the new engine it's about to go on.
all done! cost: $0
So, I had summit change my order to a Holley 300-132, which ended up being about $75 cheaper, and will be here in a few days.
in the mean time, I've been preparing.
Old Holleys never die, just get rebuilt. I've had this carb longer than I've had the car... and it's been through a lot of different rebuilds and engines. I lent it to a buddy this fall after my engine blew, and his car picked up a tenth with it
For this rendition, I talked to Eric at horsepower innovations, and he told me to simply re-jet it for this new combination.
while it was apart, I decided it needed another freshen up on the outside, so it looks as good as the rest of the new engine it's about to go on.
all done! cost: $0
#89
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Got a lot of progress to go over.
I wanted to put an idiot light in for the oil pressure and water temp., I'm going to wire them in so the light goes off if the water temp is above 230, or the oil pressure drops below 8psi. I found these on my grandpa's parts shelf, they are the same units we install in the classic Hudsons we also have.
Simply plumbed into the oil pressure port with a T.
Drilled and tapped the other head for this sensor.
I also installed the water pump for good, using some ARP bolts and summit fittings. Here you can see the combination of fittings I used to get around the asymmetrical Meziere pump. And i recycled the lower radiator hose from the old engine.
The fittings for the puke tank are -10 pushlock from summit, and I found regular 5/8" heater hose works good on them, for this non-pressure application, so i saved a few bucks there.
I wanted to put an idiot light in for the oil pressure and water temp., I'm going to wire them in so the light goes off if the water temp is above 230, or the oil pressure drops below 8psi. I found these on my grandpa's parts shelf, they are the same units we install in the classic Hudsons we also have.
Simply plumbed into the oil pressure port with a T.
Drilled and tapped the other head for this sensor.
I also installed the water pump for good, using some ARP bolts and summit fittings. Here you can see the combination of fittings I used to get around the asymmetrical Meziere pump. And i recycled the lower radiator hose from the old engine.
The fittings for the puke tank are -10 pushlock from summit, and I found regular 5/8" heater hose works good on them, for this non-pressure application, so i saved a few bucks there.
#90
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
And, the Holley 300-132 came in.
I wanted to hate this manifold because of this china stamp, but as it would end up, it turned out this is the perfect manifold for this application.
This manifold comes with all the hardware & orings you need to install it. The edelbrock does not. So, I get to return $40 in hardware and gaskets I bought in anticipation for the Edelbrock. The Edelbrock is $340, and this Holley usualy goes for $250, but I got it for $225 with a summit 10% coupon. So, going with this Holley intake saved me roughly $155 over the Edlebrock. Also, I think the smaller runners will work better with the mild camshaft I'm using.
The casting is nice, and the ports lined up perfectly, and this installed with no drama whatsoever. After the fact, I couldn't find anything I didnt like, other than the China stamp.
It took a minute on the bench to sort through the supplied bag of bolts to find the right combination of bolts for this intake, Holley even warns in the instructions that the supplied bolts are for a bunch of different intakes. NPT plugs were even included to plug the vacuum ports!
The supplied o-rings fit very well in the grooves, even dry.
In no time flat, the intake was installed.
I wanted to hate this manifold because of this china stamp, but as it would end up, it turned out this is the perfect manifold for this application.
This manifold comes with all the hardware & orings you need to install it. The edelbrock does not. So, I get to return $40 in hardware and gaskets I bought in anticipation for the Edelbrock. The Edelbrock is $340, and this Holley usualy goes for $250, but I got it for $225 with a summit 10% coupon. So, going with this Holley intake saved me roughly $155 over the Edlebrock. Also, I think the smaller runners will work better with the mild camshaft I'm using.
The casting is nice, and the ports lined up perfectly, and this installed with no drama whatsoever. After the fact, I couldn't find anything I didnt like, other than the China stamp.
It took a minute on the bench to sort through the supplied bag of bolts to find the right combination of bolts for this intake, Holley even warns in the instructions that the supplied bolts are for a bunch of different intakes. NPT plugs were even included to plug the vacuum ports!
The supplied o-rings fit very well in the grooves, even dry.
In no time flat, the intake was installed.
Last edited by no green; 02-12-2016 at 08:04 AM.
#91
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
with the intake installed, I started transferring the rest of the top end over from the old SBC. Here, you can see the Edelbrock plate system, 1" open spacer, and spruced up carb, and the fuel hoses left over from the other engine.
Everything went on pretty smoothly, except the inlet for the nitrous solenoid is interfering with my new coil covers. After messing around for a bit, I think a simple bracket to re-position the solenoid is all I need to make clearance.
Aside from the bracket, here it is, all ready to install and kick some ***.
Everything went on pretty smoothly, except the inlet for the nitrous solenoid is interfering with my new coil covers. After messing around for a bit, I think a simple bracket to re-position the solenoid is all I need to make clearance.
Aside from the bracket, here it is, all ready to install and kick some ***.
#92
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
since i'm on the home stretch, and the biggest expense left for me is some wiring related items, i figured i'll go over my costs.
"my cost" is what i paid out of pocket for that item, so it's up to you to horse trade and stuff to get your cost down... some items are way under list because I traied in workout points for it or it was used or a bargain bin special.
Also, note the most expensive item here is the diaper, and how the nickel and dime stuff racks up.... who'd-a-thunk you spend more on hardware to install the engine than the engine itself?? That cant happen on the internet
"my cost" is what i paid out of pocket for that item, so it's up to you to horse trade and stuff to get your cost down... some items are way under list because I traied in workout points for it or it was used or a bargain bin special.
Also, note the most expensive item here is the diaper, and how the nickel and dime stuff racks up.... who'd-a-thunk you spend more on hardware to install the engine than the engine itself?? That cant happen on the internet
#94
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
It's just rustoleum semigloss, the same stuff i used on the inner fenders. I've dumped fuel on there before, and it's held up. I'm not too worried about it holding up, if it starts to look bad, i'll clean it off and try something else.
#95
Supreme Member
iTrader: (13)
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
nice. i found this that might be worth looking at.
http://www.jegs.com/i/VHT/322/SP905/...FcJahgodlGUP2w
http://www.jegs.com/i/VHT/322/SP905/...FcJahgodlGUP2w
#96
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 305ci TBI
Transmission: 700R4 Built
Axle/Gears: 3.73 Eaton Trutrac 10-bolt
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Wow, what an awesome build!
From the UK and I'm in awe at how cheap it is to build stuff like that over there. Just read this entire thread going 'that's not fair!'
To give you some idea, here in England, an LS engine on its own, used out of a cut out car, with no guarantee it will run, start at about £2500 ($3600) the market is so keen for them over here that people pay that too!
What a great build though, I love it and I wish you the best this season! I'm running in Sportsman ET over here, thats 12.00 and slower.
From the UK and I'm in awe at how cheap it is to build stuff like that over there. Just read this entire thread going 'that's not fair!'
To give you some idea, here in England, an LS engine on its own, used out of a cut out car, with no guarantee it will run, start at about £2500 ($3600) the market is so keen for them over here that people pay that too!
What a great build though, I love it and I wish you the best this season! I'm running in Sportsman ET over here, thats 12.00 and slower.
#98
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
I got quite a bit accomplished this weekend.
I mounted the smart spark on the inside of the firewall, under the dash. I'm not done wiring, but made some good progress.
The dipstick I'm using is supposed to mount to a bolt hole that no longer exists in the LS engines, so I drilled & tapped the bell-housing, and made a bracket from a piece of angle aluminum I had, to mount the dipstick properly. The LS head sits pretty far back compared to the old SBC, so i needed to space it this far so the dipstick cleared. It worked out good.
I mounted the smart spark on the inside of the firewall, under the dash. I'm not done wiring, but made some good progress.
The dipstick I'm using is supposed to mount to a bolt hole that no longer exists in the LS engines, so I drilled & tapped the bell-housing, and made a bracket from a piece of angle aluminum I had, to mount the dipstick properly. The LS head sits pretty far back compared to the old SBC, so i needed to space it this far so the dipstick cleared. It worked out good.
#99
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Then I primed the engine with 4 quarts of oil with this Melling pre-oiler I've had for a while. I'll put another 3 quarts through it just before I fire the engine, I just wanted to make sure oil was getting everywhere.
My mad scientist apparatus, I like the clear tube so I can see what's going in. I went through the oil pressure port because the block plugs were stuck in place...
Pulled the valve covers to make sure oil was getting everywhere.
My mad scientist apparatus, I like the clear tube so I can see what's going in. I went through the oil pressure port because the block plugs were stuck in place...
Pulled the valve covers to make sure oil was getting everywhere.
#100
Re: Blew up my 355, time for a 5.3 N2O e85 bargain bin build
Then the moment of truth. I wish I could say this went in without issue, but it didn't. I made the mistake of not having the converter fully seated in the transmission, but luckily I caught it before there was any damage. After I pulled the engine back out, i used a strait edge and tape measure to make sure it was seated, then it went together a lot easier. I put it together using the bargain bin Meziere flex plate and an FTI LS1 converter adapter.
Then after the converter was seated properly, the motor mounts gave me some fits. Turned out, a couple of the bolts I was using were buggered up, making it a PITA, until I caught it, but it worked out, the engine is in tight, now.
I forgot to take pictures of the oil pan area, but there is all kinds of clearance between it and the cross member. Almost enough, I think, you could pull the pan off in the car.
So, I'm on the home stretch, now. The next big fab projects involve the radiator and exhaust. The wiring is coming together, and thanks to my pre-planing back in October, the plumbing should be a snap.
Then after the converter was seated properly, the motor mounts gave me some fits. Turned out, a couple of the bolts I was using were buggered up, making it a PITA, until I caught it, but it worked out, the engine is in tight, now.
I forgot to take pictures of the oil pan area, but there is all kinds of clearance between it and the cross member. Almost enough, I think, you could pull the pan off in the car.
So, I'm on the home stretch, now. The next big fab projects involve the radiator and exhaust. The wiring is coming together, and thanks to my pre-planing back in October, the plumbing should be a snap.