thunder57

I've done a fair bit of research on the subject.. It seems like the more I do the more uncertain I am of what my best option of torque arm would be.

Motor is a LQ9 and Built T56 - Hoping to end up at 450-500 rwhp after some engine mods
TNT Built 8.8 Rear end that uses the stock torque arm mount. Have all upgraded rear suspension from founders performance. UMI Square tubing subframe connectors. Might be running Inner Subframe connectors too.

I plan on using the Sklute T56 Transmission Crossmember to help clear long tube headers. Hopefully have a true dual exhaust setup one day.

I want to do a fair bit of daily driving with the car, yet be able to take it to the track and push it when I want. Don't really have a budget, want to do it right the first time and built to last.

At first I was considering the BMR Trak Pak, seems like a solid setup.. But it makes running dual exhaust a pain and can't do inner subframe connectors this way.
$430
http://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=p...402&superpro=0

Next option was to run a Spohn transmission torque arm with a custom mount on my Skulte crossmember. I've came across people damaging their front subframe from the extra torque applied because the t56 sits so far back. I don't want to risk structural damage to a car I've spent countless hours into. Not sure if that was a freak accident or if their is a way I can beef up the area to prevent structural damage from happening.
$342
http://www.spohn.net/shop/1982-1992-...GM-F-Body.html

Last option I've recently found was someone running the Alston trans tunnel torque arm:
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ed-torque.html

This setup would be pretty easy to do, I still have the interior stripped and doesn't require welding. As well the price is right. What I'm worried about is the strength of doing hard launches with it with it bolted to the floor. Not too concerned about extra noise coming into the car but having a good ride would be ideal.
$219
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alston-Race-...-/181594908330

Any input into what they've done or can recommend a different setup or advice in general would be appreciated. Thanks

Jake

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

I love the Alston trans tunnel mount style. I have the jegster tunnel mount in my camaro and it does great.

With as many bolts as they have, and the area you put them through, there is no reason to worry about the strength of the floor.

I have ran best of 1.62 60' time, 11.40s @ 118 mph on my old engine combo with the jegster tunnel mount arm. My new combo should go 10.60's @ 123 or so with a mid 1.5 60'

Then I plan to put a 300 HP nitrous system on it and MAYBE get into the 8's

The car has had the jegster arm in it for atleast 8 years, well over 400 1/4 mile passes in the 11's and 12's and many street miles

thunder57

Thanks for the input. Do you notice a lot of additional noise in the car? I wonder why more manufactures don't offer a transmission tunnel torque arm...

KWIK84

iTrader: (5)

Tunnel Mount here, has been 1.50 to the 60' footbreaking, this is a track only car, so noise isn't an issue.

Night rider327

iTrader: (13)

Your welcome. I really can't say on the noise level. I know I didn't hear any additional noise but I am running long tube headers, dual 3" pipes and 2 ultra flow mufflers, and a solid cam. So with the pretty loud exhaust and the clicking of the valvetrain I can't really tell about little sounds like that. lol

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I have the Spohn transmission cross member mounted torque arm and have been happy with it, but, I have not tried any other aftermarket torque arm. I also have read about people's torque arms hitting the underbody but I don't think mine has. It's built very strong and everything has a close tolerance and bolts up fine.

Members have damaged the inner frame rails because the T56 sits back further. Some people have added in a third bolt to fix it and those guys haven't had any issue. I'll be doing the same (adding in a third bolt further back) when I get to installing my T56 in a few months.

Not sure if mine makes noise or not, I have solid motor mounts, rod ends on the LCA and PHB so it might and I just don't know it.

If you or a friend can weld you can easily make your own crossmember for $20 max. Skulte version appears to be nothing more than angle iron and 1/8" bar stock welded together. Easy, looks good and works.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I would be interested in seeing some pics of the 8.8 rear. I'm planning on building/modifying one for myself.