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Popping sound L/F sharp turn forward & reverse

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Old 09-19-2016, 10:05 AM
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Popping sound L/F sharp turn forward & reverse

So about a month ago I put in UMI A-arms, UMI Wonder bar, and Moog Stabilizer links on my 89 Camaro RS 305.


After driving it for a little post install I started getting a popping sound, mostly noticed it at first from backing up and turning at the same time(being on a decline seemed to make it a bit more frequent to), but now I hear it if I make a sharp turn (generally to the right), and if I brake hard and the car pitches forward a lot I have heard it a few times. After jacking up the car and double checking my work I found the bushings/ball joints on the control arms are solid, and the sway bar is tight to the frame. The Struts are KYB's that I put in a little less then a year ago, for the most part the front has been rebuilt(minus the springs, god I hate these springs).


I plan on getting a 5604 moog set to put in but if I also need something else I'd like to make on order and do it all at once and not have to go back to it.


So any idea what this popping sound could be? I was fearing cracked frame behind the steering box but I haven't looked yet....

Last edited by mike0brien; 10-27-2016 at 11:19 AM.
Old 09-19-2016, 02:57 PM
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Re: Popping sound L/F sharp turn forward & reverse

Are you running stock style upper rubber insulated strut mounts, pop the top covers and watch the rubber snap back and forth while someone else is turning the wheels left and right, listen for the pop,,, any cracks in rubber, replace..
Old 09-20-2016, 04:56 AM
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Re: Popping sound L/F sharp turn forward & reverse

Yep. I had the same issue and it was coming from a worn strut mount.

Jack up the front end up under the ball joint and take a long 2x4 or pry bar and have someone move the wheel up and down. This will usually show the movement in the strut mount if you take the cover off and watch.
Old 09-20-2016, 10:50 AM
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Re: Popping sound L/F sharp turn forward & reverse

Same symptoms here, ended up tourqing down the x-member bolts a little extra & that solved it.Something else to consider.
Old 09-20-2016, 10:24 PM
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Re: Popping sound L/F sharp turn forward & reverse

Had the same issue myself. I found my original strut mounts from 1983 were worn out. I bought new ones from GM with updated bearings within the mounts. So far the noise is gone.
Old 09-22-2016, 08:30 AM
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Re: Popping sound L/F sharp turn forward & reverse

So after having someone turn my wheel lock to lock as I was watching the strut mounts it is very apparent they are torn, the upper part of the strut had a good inch or so of travel.

Only thing that bothers me is that the sound only occurs while moving(when the car was turned lock to lock in my driveway it didn't make the "pop" sound), and the popping sound does sound metallic so I am worried something else might be going on.


Either way I need those mounts, I was going to go with moog's since they have the bearings in them, any have a better option?
Old 10-27-2016, 11:37 AM
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Re: Popping sound L/F sharp turn forward & reverse

So after getting kyb strut mounts(which I don't entirely like due to the widened mounting hole toward the firewall), and moog 5604's installed on my car the popping is gone. Except now I have another noise.... yey.....


So when the car pitches hard, either from hard braking or acceleration, or turns hard I hear an audible twang sound like the spring is resonating or something. The sound when it is dry out is much harder to reproduce but when it is wet out it happens almost all the time. Also it sounds to be coming from the left front.


New parts on car:
UMI A-arm's
Moog Sway bar links
KYB excel G shocks (these are a bit older then the rest)
Moog Sway bar bushings
Moog 5604 Coil Springs
Moog Coil Spring Insulators
KYB Upper Strut Mounts
UMI Wonder bar


I do know the car needs a steering shaft, but this is a different sound that I already diagnosed and is entirely different then a spring like sound.


Now the springs aren't perfectly seated, unlike stock control arms that have two holes to place the spring between the umi's have a welded in "stop" that you are supposed to get the spring against. On both sides the springs are off that stop a 1/4 to 1/2 an inch, it was a royal nightmare trying to get those springs in, even going off the guide I got here using an internal spring compressor. So due to lack of time and frustration that was the best I could do.


Really, really REALLY hoping it is not the way the springs are seated, but if that were the case I would think both sides would be doing it not just the one cause they are both off just about the same amount.
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