Torque Converter Swap/engine vibration
09-22-2015, 08:15 PM
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Car: 91 RS
Engine: 4 bolt 350, .060 over
Transmission: 700R-4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
Torque Converter Swap/engine vibration
Two things: Engine vibration, had a bad T.C./ swap discussion, my experience.
Built a 350 four bolt .060 over forged parts and balanced. Did this two years ago and have been chasing down an engine vibration which is/has been "in and out" at all RPMS. I put a new $360 B&M 2400-2800 stall lock up TC from Summit when I assembled the trans/engine combo. Finally ran engine with trans TC cover removed and had @ half inch wobble in the flexplate. I separated the T.C. from the flexplate (about 3/8" gap after you push the T.C. back against the trans) and ran the engine, no wobble and no vibration. Ouch! Who would believe a bad new B&M T.C.? I put a new flexplate and Phoenix Transmissions T.C. simmilar to the B&M for $200, they told me with the B&M you are paying for the name. Works great! No wobble and no vibration. Dropping the trans to swap a T.C. is a PIA. Work slowly and use caution and all the great recommendations on this site. Most difficult is safely dropping/raising the trans to/from the engine along with bell housing bolt removal and installation. Yes you need to tilt the engine back to reach the upper and side bolts and remove the fluid lines. Make a train of 3/8" extensions and use a 9/16" universal socket, taping the universal helps keep it steady. For bolt install I used electrical tape, put a small slit in it and put the bolt through the slit with the bolt head in the socket and the tape onto the socket. This worked GREAT as the bolt was held square in the socket and the tape stabilized the universal joint. Trans jack plate, built one, my floor jack handle is two pecies so not tough to use under the car when its 20'' off the floor. 5/8 ply 12x18, two 6x12, 1/8" thick steel 12x18 plate 12x18 rubber. I have a 1 1/4 " diameter post/hole on the base of the 4" square jackplate/jack.
Hope the pics help clarify, drywall screwed it together and it worked very well keeping the trans stationary with the rubber and steel plate with the hole in it to lock the trans jack plate assembly to the jack. Hope this helps someone. I have always removed/installed the eng/trans combo together.
Built a 350 four bolt .060 over forged parts and balanced. Did this two years ago and have been chasing down an engine vibration which is/has been "in and out" at all RPMS. I put a new $360 B&M 2400-2800 stall lock up TC from Summit when I assembled the trans/engine combo. Finally ran engine with trans TC cover removed and had @ half inch wobble in the flexplate. I separated the T.C. from the flexplate (about 3/8" gap after you push the T.C. back against the trans) and ran the engine, no wobble and no vibration. Ouch! Who would believe a bad new B&M T.C.? I put a new flexplate and Phoenix Transmissions T.C. simmilar to the B&M for $200, they told me with the B&M you are paying for the name. Works great! No wobble and no vibration. Dropping the trans to swap a T.C. is a PIA. Work slowly and use caution and all the great recommendations on this site. Most difficult is safely dropping/raising the trans to/from the engine along with bell housing bolt removal and installation. Yes you need to tilt the engine back to reach the upper and side bolts and remove the fluid lines. Make a train of 3/8" extensions and use a 9/16" universal socket, taping the universal helps keep it steady. For bolt install I used electrical tape, put a small slit in it and put the bolt through the slit with the bolt head in the socket and the tape onto the socket. This worked GREAT as the bolt was held square in the socket and the tape stabilized the universal joint. Trans jack plate, built one, my floor jack handle is two pecies so not tough to use under the car when its 20'' off the floor. 5/8 ply 12x18, two 6x12, 1/8" thick steel 12x18 plate 12x18 rubber. I have a 1 1/4 " diameter post/hole on the base of the 4" square jackplate/jack.
Hope the pics help clarify, drywall screwed it together and it worked very well keeping the trans stationary with the rubber and steel plate with the hole in it to lock the trans jack plate assembly to the jack. Hope this helps someone. I have always removed/installed the eng/trans combo together.
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Ragtop Man
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09-12-2015 12:23 AM