383backinblack

kendall gt-1 20w50, but its not a 100K mile 305

at a ProMT monster truck racing event we participated in last year, i had the distinct pleasure of speaking with a very drunk mobil representative who told me what i already knew,

"Mobil 1 is a great oil, but its not going to make your car last an extra 100K miles beyond what it would have otherwise......"

also, "you could leave mobil 1 in an engine for 10,000 miles before you would see any chemical change that would reduce the viscosity and lubrication properties of the oil"

when you change your oil every month or less, mobil 1, or any synthetic is a waste of money unless your running a pro stock team and need every tenth of a HP you can muster

25THRSS

I use Mobil 1 5w30 and an ac delco 1218 filter. BTW, here is something interesting to read.

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

383backinblack

like i said.....

oil companies usually arent going to pound on that though, they'd sell alot less oil....except for companies like swepco who advertise their oil as being 15,000mile interval oil

in the race truck we use synergyn 50 weight racing oil, because they sponsor us....and its actually a great oil anyways lol

B4Ctom1

I use flagg from the CSK stores, its valvoline way cheaper tho, and I change it when it looks new still.

I use mobil one on my "I never change the oil subaru"

thecoolone

iTrader: (1)

Castrol GTX.

Zap Racing

Mobil 1 AND Z-Max

dominika

great article

fb305svs

the test that i refered to as crappy and crappiest was a ranked test done infront of us. the oil was rate dby visual appearence (breaking down, sledging, fluidness etc) and then chemically tested for break down...

so when i say crappy and crappiest, i ment ranked next to last and last...

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

I run Castrol GTX SAE 30 in all of the motors I build until 3,000 - 4,000 miles. It's much easier to get rings to seat with Dinosaur straight 30. Plus, straight 30 can take on more gasoline seeping past fresh rings (if the motor is running too rich) before the oil starts to thin and spin bearings as a result.

After the ~3,000 mile mark, they get mobile one syn. 10w30 with WIX filters.

Royal purple and Redline are also good synthetics.

fb305svs

excellent advice... never use synthetic in a new motor untill it has been run for some time...

Irocster

what do you guys suggest the (safest) highest mileage is to start the car on synthetic? I have a '97 4-runner that has about 75,000 miles and I wanted to put in mobil 1 10-30 next change. It doesn't leak oil now and runs great...but is this too many miles to start using the stuff?

chevyboy07 91

I use Pep Boys on the new motor...but i change it every 1500-2000 miles..actually, whenever it gets dirty, i change it. Check it every weekend and go from there..


u think i should STILL invest in a better oil guys???

I dont wanna kill this motor, but i think its OK to use this oil if i change it so often

Actually, BTW Kendall Oil is good ****

fb305svs

its not too many miles, but honestly, whats the point? synthetic oils in many ways are trying only to be a better lubricant, and maintain better viscosity through its temp range, making it a more stabile oil.

IMHO putting synthetic oil in anything other than a street strip motor or race motor is kinda pointless... engines have been turning past 200k for years with out synthetic oil, and thats not going to change, just use some good valvoline or mobile oil and your motor will be fine.

red88fmroula

valvoline high mileage then again i dont really race shes babied so bad

IROCZEKE

Valvoline full synthetic.

chevyboy07 91

looks like Ill go back to Castrol GTX...seems like for the $$$ its the best oil ***FOR ME***

I ran SAE 30 Pep boys for 20 miles
then SAE 30 Pep boys again for about 2500 miles
now i have Pep Boys 10W-30 in for about 700 miles so far.
Im gonna dump it this weekend and start using the GTX again.


Its funny, i have a high $$$$ motor and now i decide to run ****ty oil!?!?!?! WTF is wrong with my head!?!?!?


i really hope i didnt hurt anything with the crap oil and break in period actually, i never planned on sticking w/ the crappy oil. Just felt bad using good oil only to dump it in a few miles ya know.

??????

AM Racer

Mobil 1 in the engine. Redline in the trans and rear.

Cuno

oil:Royal Purple
Filter:Napa Gold...Napa filters are made by Wix

tpiroc

Valvoline VR1 + K&N Filter

I've had very good luck with this oil, however my guess is that it's not much different than standard Valvoline. Oh well, I like it.

posbird87

if my escort wasnt a ford escort id probably be more consistant with choosing its oil. sometimes valvoline max life, sometimes castrol, sometimes murrays brand, always 10W-30

3WRBOOO

i used to use pennsoil but then found out that it can leave a build up in your engine so i switched to castrol synth out not bad if you dont mind paying $6 a quart with the lucus oil stabilizer and change oil once a month and change the fram filter every other month

soulbounder

I would definitely recommend something a little better than the Proline oil Pepboys Auto carries. I believe it's remanufactured Quaker State actually.

Daishi

Formula syn. Almost $40.00 for the 4 L

good stuff

AM Racer

The only recommendation was to let the engine run on conventional oil for about the first 4,000 miles.

LilJayV10

iTrader: (5)

I don't understand why you guys are chaning your oil every weekend, that sounds like a waste of money to me, but thats just me. The oil will last a lot longer than a week or a month, the oil getting dirty means its doing its job. If you feel you need to change it every week, but better oil.

I just don't understand this at all

AM Racer

Don't stop there.
if you really want to see how they built your oil filter, go here.
http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

wyclefsirocz

i run mobil one syn. 5w30 in the winter 10w30 in the summer. w/ trck pulator filters

the new motor will be running on amsoil w/ wix filters.

FlamedROC

MOBIL 1
10w30 no synthtic crap

Daishi

My engine burns about 1 quart every 1000 KM, so i just change it after i add some
so every 2000 i change it.. i only put like 100km on my car every week.. so thats only 400km a month.
so 4 times a year i change it i suppose, i dunno. Only driven it 8km so far... not 8000. I mean actually eight kilometers.

Stekman

Throw down a vote for Mobil 1 synth.

85TransAm406

iTrader: (1)

Here is some potentially interesting info:

Here in Army land all engine-driven equipment is subject to regular oil analysis testing. As a matter of fact, the Army bases ALL oil changes on this information. Correct, no "3000 mile" or "3 month" type intervals. The Army has saved MILLIONS of dollars doing this, including the cost of running all of these labs. I know a couple of people who work at the one here, and a friend tests my oil for me for free on his own time. Here are some basic findings:

The oil is tested for increases in wearmetals, water/antifreeze, carbon, viscosity, foreign particles (dirt), and a few other things. These are tracked over time, and reccomendations on oil changes are based on these. Generally, a 6.5L diesel has tests done every 6 months or 3000 miles. However, these motors generally go at least 2 years or 7500 miles between changes. This is in a 1-1/4 ton truck, however. My truck, a 6.0L gas engine, hasn't shown a significant need for an oil change in 8000 miles (5 months). I change it at 6000 usually, however, i only went 8000 this time. It also has 117,000 miles on it. They also do trannys too.
Another intresting note. after an oil change, we are required to run the truck for only 1 hour and then resample the oil. When an oil change is done properly, there is only a 40-60% decrease in contaminants in the sample.

HisDivineShadow

Sorry for necromancing, anyway I use Quaker State in my car, the guys at this shop who specializes in american cars reccomended it, they said synthetic oil would be bad for my type of engine, so I took quaker oil then.

Dustin Imports

Ive used Mobil ! Syn, But ahve alos used Walmart Super Syn, and have felt no differernce and seen no difference in the oil when checked and drained. that was in my 355 TPI

http://www.noria.com/message_boards/...essagenumber=1

83TransAm

I use 4 quarts of Kendal GT-1 oil and a quart of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. After seeing first hand what Lucas does, I'll be putting it in every car for the rest of my life.

Steve

Njspeed

Ive using Wal Mart brand oil works fine i plan on changeing it about every 2000 miles or so snice its so easy and cheap why not. At 5 bucks for a 5quart bottle how can u go wrong? Ive been told its pretty good stuff anyway i think the name of it is SuperTech something like that

Dustin Imports

they say its actually Quaker State in a Walmart Bottle

HisDivineShadow

Is QS any good? I only took it on the reccomendation of my mechanic, who also said synthetic would be bad for this engine.

25THRSS

Your mechanic has no idea what he is talking about. Ask him why synthetics are bad for your engine and I'de bet he has a real entertaining, yet very stupid, answer. Synthetics will only provide better protection, lubrication, power, etc. The advantages over dyno oil are never ending.

HisDivineShadow

Well the guy has been working with cars for 20-30 years and he said it's from personal experience that he's had alot of problems with synthetics and valves in particular while with this oil he's never had any problems.

25THRSS

Like I said, he doesn't know what he is talking about. Even worse is he is probably applying what he knew 30 years ago today. This is where a lot of mis information comes from. Synthetics have come a long ways in 30 years.

HisDivineShadow

Still, I think this oil is probably fine, I think the car has run on mineral oil all it's "life" anyway, which is now 110,000km or 68,000 miles.

25THRSS

You're right. It will be "fine." It will still be better off with synthetics though.

Dustin Imports

like the little old secretary that swaers up and down about type writers. Yet there are computers. Some people dont like change. Or like to admit something is better. i dunno. to many studies on Syn vs Dino out there.

1bad91Z

iTrader: (1)

Geez, this is a long oil thread!!

Daishi

why would syn be bad for your engine? I thought it was the best of the best??

HisDivineShadow

Something about leaking and problems with valves.

SuperchargedRS

Valvoline VR1 with full Z-max treatment, changed every 6 months (never get near 2,500 mi), I also run 91Oct fuel, works great for me, oh yea full K&N filters.

Nixon1

Synthetic is 'more slippery' than conventional oils. That's why the general consensus is to not use it on a break-in.....they say it doesn't allow the piston rings to seat properly, because they need FRICTION to seat. AKA, synthetic works TOO good. Well, in older motors, I imagine the synthetic will get past the valve seals easier, and past the piston rings also....so you'll start burning oil more. This isn't necessarily true---I've just heard this from a few people. But I've heard from others who run it on higher mileage motors without problems. On an older motor, you'd probably want to run thicker (10W30 or thicker) conventional oil. I personally wouldn't recommend synthetic anywhere past 75,000-100,000 miles or so.... That's just me though.

I run Castrol GTX in my 5 liter...always have. I'd be running Mobil 1, but it's way too expensive when Castrol has never given me any problems. As long as you do regular oil changes and don't put it off...and run a decent filter...I imagine any oil will do its job just fine.

And as far as the Z-Max, etc. go.....just be careful with those. I stay away from the PTFE treatments myself. I've heard some real weird stories about those engine treatments. Only stuff I'd use pretty much is any Lucas treatments, Restore, and maybe something like Rislone ring seal...

HisDivineShadow

I'm running on 10W40(it gets very cold here in the winter) and my engine almost got 70,000 miles on it.

AM Racer

The leaking issue was resolved back in the 70's. Just an old story that won't bury. When syn's were first developed for auto use, it didn't carry an additive to simulate the "conventional petro lubricant" properties of swelling rubber, so older engines with worn seals shrunk back to normal size and leaked. This was recognized and soon fixed.