hey, I am new to this thread but I just bought a pair of procomp pc30035 from white performance and I have been racking my brain trying to get these to work. I have a 305 tpi and after i bought the heads i put them on and the bracket hole in the front of the head is off. than i go to put the lower intake manifold on, there is a gap between the injector hole and the head that goes into the intake runner on the head. wtf? how am i supposed to deal with this? i also bought a set of comp cams roller rockers and the pushrod length is incorect and i guess i need a longer pushrod to run 1.6 ratio rockers. when i called and talked to whitesperformance before i bought them and read ALOT of threads on here i was convinced that these were going to be ok for what i wanted to do!!!!!!

yes i had the same problem with the one hole being off too on the passenger side head. i had to drill and tap it . there is about 1.5" of aluminum where the hole goes so you dont need to worry bout hitting the water jacket. you do need the longer pushrods for sure. the remedy for the mismatched ports is the TPIS bigmouth intake or the edelbrock 3860 cast. i bought the TPIS and it covered those big ports easily. call whites and talk to travis and tell him joe serpico said to set you up with the right stuff, he'll take care of you.

youre gonna want the new baseplate anyway because these heads flow like a mofo.

thanks for that info!!!!! I am starting to need more motivation to get this project done!!!!! it will, i just need to take my time with it. thanks again.

here are the flow numbers off their website:190cc 64cc angle plug


Flow Numbers

Intake Flow

.100
.200
.300
.400
.500
.600
.700
58.0
113.5
159.2
199.7
227.6
244.2
248.3

Still working on the site, just through some stuff there until I can finish it.

Procomp heads new install very happy, making very power. 58cc chambers 210 runners.

nery nice looking ride. Be careful with that air cleaner tho, had a backfire on my truck and it almost went up in flames..

Only thing air filter I could find that would fit under the hood. 1st start up on youtube

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ejKJ5aj8ruo

there has got to be better options somewhere. Those are terrible. They start to flake and fall apart, when that happens it just gets sucked into the motor. Plus a good backfire will catch them on fire.

do yourself a favor, toss that air cleaner and get something else.

The only thing I can find that would fit under the hood. Do you no of 1 about this size.

You need plus 100 long than stock, The heads bracket holes was for the older small blocks my mounts bolt right up. Stock is 7.800 you need 7.900 push rods

ok well i heard that i needed the longer push rods and the man who sold me the heads also said that i needed longer ones, so i purchased them!? but than when i got the 1.6 rr's they did not bolt on properly. I really think that i may sell them....anybody want a set of pro-comp heads?

I have a set of procomp heads with comp 1.6rr, went on fine..are you using self aligning or not on the rockers (if not you need guide plates)....the heads are okay, but I bought them to have them ported personally. MUCH better after 60hrs of port work (and a lot of money).....

I also have a set of procomps on my 360, never had a pushrod problem, just need to buy +.100 rods.

i never ran them unported, but im running 542hp n/a. so they get the job done.

I'm running roller rockers 1.6 7/16 studs plus 100 push rods butter fly pistons procomp 210cc runners and 58cc chamber, only thing I found that if you use the wrong manifold screws to long the they will hit the push rods in the middle. and my eldelbrock manifold did not cover up a screw hole on the drive side of the motor on toward the front on the heads just glue the hole up. Motor running find making very good power. If you post some pics on how it's sitting on the motor. We may can help you better. At the time I $525.00 for the set. I'm very happy with them. And my friend that has a block 454 40 motor with bigger tires on his car. I cought him in 2nd gear. The little mouse, catching a rat.

I would not run them unported either on anything with some power.....I push 495hp with mine....

http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...ild/index.html

Well since all you guys are little girls and cant try them out these guys did and they worked,.... wow. They are heads and if they are sellin then they obviously work. Read the link above and you will see that these heads are worth 600 bucks to get your car smoking them rubbers

I have bought a set of the procomp heads the 215cc cnc version for my 383 I'll post back the results.

What are the flow numbers like?

Lot of cheap heads on the market now, but the flow is awfully terrible on a lot of them. Above I think it was posted at .500 lift, the 195cc version flows 227cfm.. That is pretty bad. AFR 195's are $1300, and flow around 280cfm at that same lift point..


-- Joe

lift int. Exh
.100 79.3 62.3
.200 141.0 120.0
.300 195.7 162.3
.400 231.2 191.9
.500 262.3 207.8
.600 320.9 219.3
.700 336.8 232.9

I take it those #'s are for the 195cc's? Are they advertised numbers or independantly tested? If they are independant results do you have the #'s for the other runner sizes from Procomp?

According to the resellers on ebay, including skip white, those numbers are not even close. the #'s for the 195s are horrid.

The numbers for the "new" 210s are as follows:

Lift int exh
300 161 131
400 206 148
500 240 152
600 260 152

I'm not sure where Stinger got the CNC 215s, however here is the numbers for the CNC 220s

Lift Int Exh
300 195 150
400 236 175
500 258 193
600 274 203




Now, here is the problem.. The 210, even the 220cc version flow under 260cfm at .500 lift. This is enough to support a hot 350 cid motor, however with the cross sectional area of a 210, and 220cc runner we're talking major velocity problems meaning low-rpm operation is going to suffer. For a motor that turns 7k, and doesn't see life below 4500rpm this would be a good cheap alternative head, considering their like $700..


Now compare these to an AFR 195 eliminator head:

Lift Int Exh
300 201 166
400 247 197
500 275 213
550 280 218

The AFR has a much better I/E ratio, flow a lot more at every lift point, and have a smaller cross sectional area so they will work well off idle to 7k.

AFR 195s have a entry price of around $1300 plus shipping, which is obviously much more than these pro-comp heads however if you follow the tech it's worth it.

-- Joe

I got the numbers straight from procomps site http://www.procompelectronics.com/in...oduct_id=37063

When I choosed heads I wanted a set of good flowing heads to a low price. My guy at the shop I usually buy stuff from stripped them down and checked the seat and then assamble them with manley valves and comp cams springs. They look very good and I hope they fit my engine well and produce good power.
And I have to say that I dont think the flow figures are'nt that bad for the 195cc procomp heads.
.500 228 180
.600 245 190
Thats much better than my old Edelbrock RPM heads and better than some other heads concerning the cost.

Those flow numbers (228 cfm at .500 lift) are weak.

-- Joe

I know the 195cc are not raceheads BUT if you want a little more power in your car and you dont have enough money to buy a set of AFR I think they are good for the money. I saw an article were they gave 400hp on a chevy and another 55hp for the 215cc version on the same engine thats enough for me.

Was that article on the 'skipwhite' (white performance) or 'ProComp' site?

No it was not on thoose sites and I remembered wrong it was not on a chevy they tested them, it was on a ford 408 first they tried the 195cc and got 463hp then they switched to 215cc and got 505hp I think thats pretty good, at least for me. http://www.musclemustangfastfords.co...hp_stoker.html

There's another budget build using the Pro Comp heads on a 350 that Super Chevy tested.

So it was a chevy, oh wait no a ford but it was good enough for you?


I think that if the options are reworking stock heads, vs spending $700 on a set of those heads you should go with the procomps. I'd stay away from the 210, 220. The runner size is too big for a small inch street motor.

The 195s have kinda horrible flow, but better than some stock heads. If you can do some bowl work and get them to flow in the 250s they should be reasonable. The port flow as advertised is about on par with ported LT1 heads..


Stock L98 heads flow around 200cfm on the intake side, 145 cfm on the exhaust.

Stock LT1 heads flow around 215 cfm intake, and I forget the exhaust.


-- Joe

I researched a lot of heads before I bought mine. There were just simply too many issues reported with Pro Comp to risk it. You can save your money and get good heads with proven performance instead of getting these hit or miss heads.

Plus, do you really want to keep purchasing parts from China where quality is not even a consideration? If they put chemicals in food, what kind of Aluminum do you think they use. Yes, I know they say they are made in Australia but that has been proven to be untrue. The more we support Chinese companies the more jobs American's lose.

Ok you researched and how did you do that? Did you read about thoose who was not happy with their heads? How many? Have you talked to all the others that are happy with their heads but not posting about it. There are lots of shops that sells hundreds per month without complains. Please do a search on bad things on patriot, broddix, etc and you will find a couple to. But they also have thousands of happy customers.

Pot calling the kettle black.

What research have you done?

I've looked at the pictures of them. The ports look terrible. Strike one.

The reported flow data is not much better than stock heads. Strike two.

The company, or sellers, don't provide any information regarding port cross sectional area, chamber shape, valve back cut angle, etc.. Strike three.


Do you really know what you are talking about, or are you just happy you got shiny pretty aluminum heads? Just curious, because so far you have stated that a test gave 55hp on a chevy, but then realized it was a ford a few posts later. That's not the type of technical research I trust.


No offense, but lets talk tech not fluff. Are the heads worth $500-600 ? Probably, they are better than stock heads.

The question is, is it worth putting $600 heads on a 'performance' engine?? I'm not sure.. I think I'd use them for a stock build, they are better than L98 heads. Would I spend $1100+ for the 215 or 220 "cnc" versions? Absolutely not. For a few hundred more you can get AFR heads that spank them in every respect.


Again, out of the box, the ports look horrid. They need clean up at minimum, especially if you have a manifold that has already been gasket matched to a felpro 1205 (195cc??, no idea, doesn't say) or felpro 1206 (210+ cc?? again ???)

-- Joe

Yes, you are correct all head manufacturers are going to have a bad part that slips through. That is just part of mass manufacturing. However, what you will find is that these issues are an anomaly. I am willing to bet that Brodix, Patiot, AFR sell a good part 99% of the time.

Well, I am glad you asked because I did not just do Google searches to come to my conclusion. I went to (4) different machine shops in the area and asked about the quality of Pro Comp. If I am going to spend my hard earned money than I am going buy the best part I can. Most were biased away from them whether they had cause or not. However, the last machine shop/engine builder walked me in the back and showed me 4 different cracked Pro Comp heads that were on mildly built engines, followed by pictures of a destroyed engine due to a broken stud/rocker. He too thought Pro Comps were good so he started selling them and installing them on engines he built. He had so many returns and quality problems that he stopped selling them and no longer uses them. He said they are not worth the trouble because they work well at first but have problems further down the line. Metallurgy is not some easy thing that anyone can master.

Secondly, I spoke to around 30 different people at the track and asked about heads. At least 10 of them ran Pro Comp. The general consensus among all of them was Pro Comp was an okay short term solution or for a budget track car. However, if you want something reliable that is going to last a long time than I should save my money and get something better.

Lastly, I spoke to a Mechanical Engineer I work with and asked him to look into different heads for me. He has connections throughout the industry and gets access to information. Bottom line, Pro Comp uses an inferior alloy to make their heads, have weak points all throughout the casting, and are were never tested in real world applications. Point being, they can make something that works but they never tested and engineered it to last.

I hope I am wrong. I hope your heads last forever and you beat every car that you race. However, after investing thousands of dollars in my engine and hundreds of hours I will not install a part on my car that is sub par, not proven, has quality issues, and was not engineered to last in order to save $600 bucks. The risk of ruining my engine is simply too great. Why would I risk $5000 to save $600?

You can point to Super Chevy or a Ford magazine all you want. However, keep in mind it was a short term test that was not road proven.

"I've looked at the pictures of them. The ports look terrible. Strike one.
If the port look so terrible how come they can managed to put out over 400hp? you cant do that with stock heads.
and you obviously not have seen the cnc version then because the look very good.

The reported flow data is not much better than stock heads. Strike two.
So you mean that around 235cfm at .550 is no better than 185 cfm on intake and 185cfm is not much better than 146cfm on exhaust? How much does it cost to do a complete repair on stock heads with new springs and valves, etc? so you say that it isnt worth $500 to buy these heads?

The company, or sellers, don't provide any information regarding port cross sectional area, chamber shape, valve back cut angle, etc.. Strike three.
This one you may have a point but it isnt many of the bigger brands that provide this.

I linked to those articles just to point out that maby flow isnt everything, you said that they flowed so bad but they managed to deliver 5800407469 407hp and 469 TQ thats more than my RPM heads I use to had and they almost costs twice as much. And as been said in this thread before I cant say I know how long they will last because I have not tested them a couple of years. The cast cast look fine and so are the runners and chamber, I will test them and we will see how they run and for how long. I paid $1800 for these 215cc cnc:ed in sweden. AFR 195cc costs over $2900 here.

I've been running mine at 542 n/a hp for 1.5 years and 10,000 miles so far, nothing to report yet. I beat my car hard and nothing has given in just yet.

the castings looked great when i bought them, the ports did need work on the exhaust side, BADLY, but they can be worked.

I own a set of procomps and have for a while....I have no comlaints.....BUT....they do have less than average castings inside the runners and bowls....these heads are better than stock yes.....but work VERY well for someone wanting to have a set of heads ported. If you're doing a swap with no porting......and have some power....get a set of AFR's or something....if you are going to full out port the heads anyway.....then I would go with procomps.....

IMO no head from no company is without need of port work,.....and CNC heads don't count cause they are just ported at company producing them. Procomps just need extra porting to clean them up.

I'm not sure how many heads you get your hands on over in sweden, the ports look like crap.. 400hp is no big deal, I made 162 more horsepower than that with sportsman II heads..

235 cfm might be light years better than smog Iron GM castings. It's about 15cfm better than stock LT1 castings, and the same as stock L31 castings. (iron, vortec).

Still almost 50cfm away from AFR heads.

Well, Good question, but those heads are not $500 they are $650+ in the US.

AFR 195cc (part #1040) cost me $1200 plus shipping. Sounds like I need to sell heads to sweden. That would be a $1700 profit!



-- Joe

yea stupid me, doesnt every1 have 562hp? 400hp is nothing to call home about.

Isnt it that what we are talking about here if they are worth the cost and a good replacement if you want to have some more power in your engine? I can not understand why you must compare them to LT1 they are not an option right? and have any1 said that they are better than AFR?

I don't want to argue with you. You made your choice and that is fine. I wish you nothing but the best of luck with the heads.


I'd rather just debate the tech. Here is a post I made on another forum regarding these types of topics:


This is taken from my website.

This data is generalized around building a street engine, with a moderate camshaft with around .500-.550 lift. A general outline and rule of thumb when choosing cylinder heads based on desired RPM and horsepower output.


Regardless of the HP output, be it 400hp, 500hp, or 550hp I base a lot of my calculations on a theoretical shift point/redline of around 6,000 RPM. Generally speaking, the combo should have peak power somewhere round 6,000 RPM which is the general accepted operating range of a street driven vehicle with a hydraulic camshaft.





Minimum required airflow for performance


These calculations explain the relationship between horsepower and CFM, and max
RPM and CFM.

Horsepower potential at a given CFM is the same regardless of engine size, however
CFM required to achieve RPM varies because the larger the engine the more air is moved
per revolution at a given RPM.

These calculations were also based on known 195-220cc heads on the market today. (I
have included Vortec, which is a 170cc runner head because it is a popular upgrade from
stock L98 heads, camel humps, etc) This is important, because for a street car,
that will operate from 1500 - 6000 RPM you need to maintain good port velocity or low
rpm use (street) will suffer. A head that flows 250 CFM on a runner that is 195cc will have
the same horsepower potential as a head that flows 250 CFM on a runner than is 220cc,
however because the cross sectional area is smaller the velocity is higher and low RPM
operation is much better.


These are MINIMUMS, not guaranteed specifications. For example, a 350 cubic
inch motor with Vortec L31 heads will not make 472hp just by bolting the heads on.
In fact, the relationship to RPM is similar in that to use 230cfm and make 472hp
a 350 might need to spin close to 6900 rpm.



In theory, a properly tuned engine (naturally aspirated), with decent intake manifold
design could reach a VE of 127%, which for the example 350 would be roughly 255cfm
at 6,000 RPM. This would be a roughly 520 horsepower 350.




350 cubic inches, Head flow at 28" of water:


Cylinder Head Flow of 220 is 452.33 at a RPM of 6,611.32 (Patriot, Procomp, Vortec L31)
Cylinder Head Flow of 230 is 472.89 at a RPM of 6,911.84 (Vortec L31)
Cylinder Head Flow of 240 is 493.45 at a RPM of 7,212.35 (Sportsman II)
Cylinder Head Flow of 250 is 514.01 at a RPM of 7,512.87 (TFS 23*)
Cylinder Head Flow of 260 is 534.57 at a RPM of 7,813.38
Cylinder Head Flow of 270 is 555.13 at a RPM of 8,113.89
Cylinder Head Flow of 275 is 565.41 at a RPM of 8,264.15 (AFR 195 eliminator)


383 cubic inches, Head flow at 28" of water:

Cylinder Head Flow of 220 is 452.33 at a RPM of 6,041.68 (Patriot, Procomp, Vortec L31)
Cylinder Head Flow of 230 is 472.89 at a RPM of 6,316.30 (Vortec L31)
Cylinder Head Flow of 240 is 493.45 at a RPM of 6,590.92 (Sportsman II)
Cylinder Head Flow of 250 is 514.01 at a RPM of 6,865.54 (TFS 23*)
Cylinder Head Flow of 260 is 534.57 at a RPM of 7,140.16
Cylinder Head Flow of 270 is 555.13 at a RPM of 7,414.79
Cylinder Head Flow of 275 is 565.41 at a RPM of 7,552.10 (AFR 195 eliminator)


400-412 cubic inches, Head flow at 28" of water:

Cylinder Head Flow of 220 is 452.33 at a RPM of 5,616.41 (Patriot, Procomp, Vortec L31)
Cylinder Head Flow of 230 is 472.89 at a RPM of 5,871.71 (Vortec L31)
Cylinder Head Flow of 240 is 493.45 at a RPM of 6,127.00 (Sportsman II)
Cylinder Head Flow of 250 is 514.01 at a RPM of 6,382.29 (TFS 23*, Procomp 220 CNC)
Cylinder Head Flow of 260 is 534.57 at a RPM of 6,637.58 (EQ23)
Cylinder Head Flow of 270 is 555.13 at a RPM of 6,892.87
Cylinder Head Flow of 275 is 565.41 at a RPM of 7,020.52 (AFR 195 eliminator)



Based on these calculations, and a typical street redline of 6,000 RPM,
the real bare minimum head we can run on a 383 engine is 230 CFM. On any 400+
cubic inch motor, we would need a head in excess of 240 CFM minumum.

On larger cubic inch engines we can get away with heads with larger runners, such as
a 220cc head on a 400-412, or a 210cc on a 383. These larger heads would fall flat on any 350
engine under 4500 RPM. They don't have the velocity because of the sewer pipe runner size.
In theory, a head such as an EQ23 220cc would support 550+ hp on a 400-412 cubic inch small block
however the much less flowing Procomp 220 CNC head would support low 500s on the same engine.


Felpro 1255 port size 2.11 x 1.08
Felpro 1205 port size 2.09 x 1.28
Felpro 1206 port size 2.21 x 1.31


Why is this important? Remember, velocity is important. Larger ports will have less velocity
than smaller ports at the same CFM.

How do we calculate velocity? Simple. First measure the cross sectional area of the head. Divide the CFM at .400 and greater
lift points by the cross sectional area to get the CFM per square inch.

It's important to understand the flow curtain below .400" lift is always smaller than the port cross sectional area,
so this velocity calculation does not apply to lower lift points. This is also why roller camshafts with faster ramps make
more power than slower ramps, because we spend more time at lift.


Head flow data:


Vortec L31 (170cc, 64cc chamber 1.74 SQ" cross sectional area, Stock, Felpro 1255 port)
$300 used

Lift Int Exh Velocity
.200 118 111
.300 177 148
.400 217 160 125
.500 226 164 130
.600 n/a n/a

These numbers were taken from factory heads, with no porting or mods. A lot of guys on the forums
like to claim the L31 heads flow 240 CFM, and that is probably true after a few hours with a grinder.


Procomp 195 (195cc, New version, Skip White Performance, Felpro 1205 port)
$649 NEW

Lift Int Exh
.200 113 97
.300 159 132
.400 199 161
.500 227 180
.600 244 189


Sportsman II (200cc Iron, Felpro 1205 port, 2.19 SQ" Cross sectional area)
$900 NEW

Lift Int Exh Velocity
.200 132 102
.300 187 131
.400 225 150 102
.500 240 164 109
.600 243 162 110


Procomp 210 (210cc Alum, 64cc chamber, Felpro 1206 - 58CC FLOWS LESS!!)
$679 NEW

Lift Int Exh
.200 n/a n/a
.300 161 131
.400 206 148
.500 240 152
.600 260 152



Trickflow 23* (Rev 2 / Kenny D Felpro 1205 port, 1.97 SQ" cross sectional area - up to 500hp per mfg)
$1100 NEW

Lift Int Exh Velocity
.200 136 98
.300 191 136
.400 230 163 117
.500 253 177 128
.600 254 190 129


Procomp 220 CNC (220cc full CNC, Felpro 1206)
$869 NEW

Lift Int Exh Velocity
.200 n/a n/a
.300 195 150
.400 236 175
.500 258 193
.600 274 203


Engine Quest EQ23 220BA (220cc iron, Felpro 1206 I think?)
$700 NEW

Lift Int Exh
.200 141 115
.300 196 145
.400 238 169
.500 265 189
.600 280 201



AFR 195cc Eliminator (195cc, Felpro 1205 port, 2.18 SQ" cross sectional area)
$1300 NEW

Lift Int Exh Velocity
.200 146 119
.300 201 166
.400 247 197 113
.500 275 213 126
.600 280 218 128


Regarding these head specs, for the el cheapo Proform and Engine Quest heads, I have absolutely ZERO idea what the cross sectional
area is of these heads. This is a very important part of determining port velocity and how will the head will perform in general.

Generally speaking, 195cc heads have a typical port cross sectional area of 1.90-2.21 and this goes along with
the typical felpro 1205 gasket. (Older AFR 195s and Sportsman II have offensively large 2.21 and 2.19 cross sectional areas).

So, if a head such as a Procomp 195 had a cross sectional area as tight as 1.90 SQ", it would have a velocity of 119 which is not great
but respectable considering if it had a cross sectional area of 2.21 SQ" it would have a velocity of 102..

Most 210 and 220 CC aftermarket heads have cross sectional areas greater than 2.20 SQ". AFR, Dart, TFS, Brodix are all at the smallest
2.20 SQ ", and the largest (AFR 220) 2.31 SQ".

So again, let's look at a Procomp 220 CC, Perhaps the CNC version. At best, at a cross sectional area of 2.20 SQ " it would have a velocity
of 117. (which is still not great). However, more likely than not the cross sectional area approaches 230 SQ" and would be closer to 112.
(Remember, this head only flows 258 CFM at .500 lift, vs AFR 220 which flows 294!)



I did not add every head on the market here for good reason.

1) Procomp, Patriot, and just about every ebay head flows about the same, and is sold in about the same price range.

2) Brodix, Dart, are all way more expensive than any of the "cheap budget heads" most guys think they need.

3) I was going to add Profiler, which have respectable flow numbers but I couldn't find a soul on the planet who had a pair bolted to his engine. I spoke with Darin from Profiler, as well as a sales guy regarding specs, however without any confirmation of anyone actually using the heads I have to consider them market vapor.


Besides, the flow bench numbers are just examples. Do your own homework. If you are building a xxx cubic inch engine, you want yyy horsepower, and zzzz RPM you know what you need (roughly) for head flow. Go find the heads that flow what you want, have decent velocity, and are made from the material you want to fit your budget.

-- Joe

If I buy a set of heads for 650$ in The US, I can have then delivered to my front door in Norway (The thin line of land on the map to the left of Sweden...) for less than 1200 $.
That includes customs and sales tax, US mainland & overseas freight costs.

I have done it with an used L05 motor, a complete hot rod IFS, an aluminium radiator and lots of more stuff.

That is quite a mark up.

I've purchased things from UK and Canada, and have not had to pay a dime over normal freight charges.

-- Joe

What tax do you have in Norway? We have 25% here in Sweden on everything that we import outside the EU and then some different customs charges depending on what you import and I think car-parts are around 5-7% I'm not shure. So if I should order a set of 1040 from summit they cost $1464,95 for the heads and the cheapiest shipping option is $352,52 = $1817,47. When the package comes to the Swedish border tax and customs 25% + 5% are added to the sum, so My total cost would be almost $2400. The best for us is to buy from a person that can write down the value a bit otherwise its not worth it.
And if we stick to the topic I have decided to flow my heads just for my own sake, and I have talked to a guy that can do this so he will flow them and then clean them up if nessecary and the flow them after.

Well if you can get i lower, included the 25% sales tax on both the item value and shipping value, please let me know.

Check out jetcarrier.com. Way cheaper than your alternative. Especially from Summit as they are expensive on foreign shipments.
With jetcarrier they will threat it as an ordinary US mainland shipment.

http://jetcarrier.com/

I think they deliver i Sweden as well?
We have 25% sales tax on car parts.

25% tax?

Time for a coup.

-- Joe

how else do you fund a bikini team?

hehehe we fund them by paying $50/gallon for gas. ;-)

No problem. We can afford it.
Especially these days when the US dollar is weak compared to the Norwegian currency.

And one more thing: We still pumps up more oil than we use...

One US dollar is worth 5.5 Norwegians... ?

Doesn't seem very week to me. Unless it was worth 10 previously

-- Joe