Quote: Originally Posted by AUSSIROC My B&M shifter is a HUGE pain in the wrist to get out of Park. I thought perhaps it was the trans coz when i got under the car in a futile attempt to improve the action, the trans linkage in Park was still the most difficult position to get out of. Does anyone have any ideas or solutions to make the thing easier to get out of Park??? see , i duno man, my megashifter in my 87 is a little tight to get outta park, d-to-park- reverse-to d, but i dont mind.... one hte other hand, my brother got a megashifter in his 93 Trans am (cuz he liked mine alot) and yes he has the same trans as i do (700R4), and his megashifter is like butter... u can pull the lever and its the smoothest easiest flowing switching of gears ive ever touched (even smootehr and less energy than our stock 3rd gen shifters)... i think it depends on how the shifter is put in, and MOSTLY, if its greased well....on where the "steps"in the metal are, below the boot.. its unbeleivable how "loose" his is, and mine is tight, but i like tight ---try greasing it, it might help...

Most of the difficulty shifting comes from having to loop that long cable around the top of the tranny. I've been considering getting a shorter cable and routing it directly like the factory did. I just need to verify how they measure the length to make sure it won't be too short or too long.

When you drive an automatic in the normal "Drive" position, do you let up on the gas to shift? No.

An automatic is MADE to shift while the engine putting load to it. That's the whole point of an automatic. Whether shifting on its own, or manually shifted, it's all the same to the transmission.


Think about it-- not an insult, but very true-- Automatics were created for and continue to be for people who don't have the smarts or the skills, or who are too lazy, to use a clutch and a gear shift. (Well, nowadays they help save gas in city driving, too. But that doesn't count.) Hey! I'll admit it. I'm going to swap my T5 for an auto 'cuz my wife can't drive a stick, and I'm getting lazy in my old age.

when i was at mopac auto supply on boxing day they has they for like 110$ canadian

LMAO. Thats funny. Its not really a lazyness facter because I LOVE STICK but I have an Automatic....I'm not trying to swap many parts from my car....I would like to keep...how can I say...my "original parts". Like my LO3 motor (unless I buy a new LO3 crate or something if they have any), my 700r4, my 10bolt rear, my ground effects...I just dont like the whole buy a 3rd gen then swap all 4th gen parts into it or 2nd or whatever.....WHY NOT JUST BUY A 4TH GEN....AND SAVE MONEY. Me I want a GTA 5-speed with a 350....but this wont be a no swap out car....I know its hard to find a GTA with a stick and 350 originally....but thats why I want it...so I can do the swaps...but for this 89 Camaro...anything that came with it I am just building it up.

SORRY if anyone takes this as anything bad....I just really cant bring it to mind why people buy AWESOME condition 3rd gens just to make them less of a 3rd gen. Ah **** it....L8ER ALL AND ALWAYS HAVE FUN....ESPECIALLY WITH V8 MUSCLE.

Other than mine's a Formula, I can't say it was awesome. Other than the sheet metal was miraculously straight, it was pretty well trashed. I'm doing a total restore on it, but I'm afraid it won't be a true "original."

I built the original 305, and got it into the 12's like I wanted. But to get that output, I ruined its street manners. Then I got the chance to "steal" a pre-built 400 for $500 that was 95% what I wanted (just change the cam), and the idea of resurrecting the "Formula 400" marque in a 3rd gen sounded really cool. So, not only a 400 in it, but "6.6 LITRE F.I." on the bulge hood, and "FORMULA 400" on the doors. Now it's "awesome."
Automatic trans swap, mainly 'cuz I know the 400 will grenade the 5-speed one day, plus my wife's inability and my laziness as I said before. The only 4th gen stuff going in it is the A/C externals 'cuz they're made for the new refrigerant and will be cold, and the front seat belts. I don't think any of that will make it "less" of a thirdgen.

The 5' cable supplied is WAY too long. I bought the 2 or 3 footer. It fits better and is a heavier gauge. I'll look it up and post back.

anyway...as far as price goes, you can get them on ebay for around $153. Do a search, a ton of them come up.

Any luck with the details for the shorter cable?

Three footer. Part # BMM-80831 from Summit Racing. The stock cable measured around 2.5 feet or so.

Thanks, this will help alot. Well in the fact of a cleaner look without so much slack....thanks again. I just like being able to replace anything and everything I touch on my car....all bolts, nuts, washers, spacers, brackets, lines, hoses, parts themselves, gaskets, interior screws, radio wires....ANYTHING I TOUCH WHEN WORKING ON MY CAR GETS REPLACED NO MATTER HOW GOOD A CONDITION ITS IN....UNLESS I REPLACED IT MYSELF...THEN I'LL LET IT SLIDE. AAANNNNYYYYYTTTTTTHHHHHHHIIIIIIIINNNNNNNNNGGGGGGGGGG. This makes for a better car....because now I dont have to go back and do it.

Like I want to completely replace my car.

I mean I am keeping this car forever.

Hey badgirliroc, what are the lights for in front of your shifter???? Looks good....

Thanks!
Happy New Year!

nope mine is the exact same thing its just the set up of the shifter.

It is very hard to find considering they never existed.

Pull the e brake up when it is in park before letting off the brake

Cheers Guys!

The switches are for nitrous that I don't have LOL. The first button (amber) is the only one that's hot. That is for my line lock.

Not true for all automatics. I have a race built TH350 in my formula because it is set up as a street/strip drag car. Shifting with the automatic at the strip is much more consistent and better for drag racing. I'll admit that on a regular street everyday drive car people are lazy and find it much easier to drive with a auto.

My point about "laziness" was just to explain that manual shifting won't hurt the trans. An auto is made to shift with power applied so most people can be lazy.

Your statement about "more consistent and better for drag racing" is exactly what I've been saying. With a trans that's modified for manual shift, YOU control the shift point with your ratchet or gated shifter. Without the mods, the shifter is pointless.

And BTW, when the auto goes in mine, it'll be race built for 500+ ft-lbs, with manual shift, and a gated shifter. Gated is my preference 'cuz they operate like a standard shifter and normal operation between P-R-N-D (for my wife), with the manual shift ability for me. It'll only see the strip for test and tune, but I can still have fun. Best of both worlds, in my opinion.

And hey! Thanks, guys, on the word about the shift cable length. I'll remember: 3-foot cable is the way to go.

So did the shorter shift cable from summit make it easier to get out of park?

Since everyones discussing the BM, thought I would join in, but with a ?. Since I put in a megashifter and Th400 with a transgo stage 3 manual kit(at the same time), my megashifter WILL NOT grab hard enough to downshift from 3 2 and 2 1 when the car is running. At idle it is fine, no problems. When running the mechanism slips so the it stays in d and doesn't move to 2 unless I grab the mechanism and assist it. Once I do that and get it into 1 it upshifts just fine. (the cable is adjusted just like bm said to do. I am 200% sure the cable is not the problem. I rechecked it twice) A call to transgo netted nothing but advice to hook up the vac. mod. This didn't help, although I dont have much vacuum(tunnel ram) BM says since it works when the car isn't running the shifter isn't the problem. Has anyone had this problem? I am completely out of ideas

It did, but still a bit tight. My wife can work it though. But I think more importantly is the angle of the cable where it comes from the shifter and enters the trans tunnel. I had to lengthen the hole in the tunnel, AND adjust the cable retaining plate on the shifter. I don't know if the mounting points are the same across all the F-bodies. My car is a Formula, B&M says it won't fit my model car. But my only real issue with the install was the design of the stock Formula shifter plate. It becomes quite fragile when cut. The new plate from B&M fits VERY tight between the ash tray release button and side mirror controls.

ATTENTION EVERYBODY: My brother has the B&M and his came with a manual telling you how to set it up.....his started out to be tight (then he read the manual) and in it it tells you EXACTLY how to get it from being so stiff....it actually says that if its tight you can ruin the shifter....maybe why people break them here and there, just thought I'd let you guys kow this...LMAO....and everyone has troubles....just read a little....GUARENTEED.

I read the manual that came with my B&M shifter from front to back, probably about a hundred times, and couldn't find any instructions for ease of operation beyond making sure to route the cable exactly as shown in the picture, and keeping it greased up.

Instead of taunting us all for our ability to read, why don't you contribute a little and actually type in the instructions that worked so well for you?

Mine didn't have a damn word about adjusting anything other than the cable. Looking closely I don't see any adjustments whatsoever other than moving the stops to accomodate a powerglide, R4, ...
BTW, its spelled GUARANTEED

with the kit it comes with a plate, that you attach to the tranny shifter, you can adjust the shifter by using that, from street to stip also, if your using a tranny other then the 700r4

camz286

Ill try and post manual words ASAP....my brother has the book as of this moment so I have to get it from him...hey he read it and his is fine...thats all I am saying...plus...maybe B&M forgot your manual with these steps on it...IDK...as for getting on me....HEY SORRY MY BROTHER HAS A GOOD WORKING SHIFTER AND YOU DONT....SO CRY ABOUT IT...HIS WORKS FINE...YOURS DOESNT...LOOKS LIKE SOMEONE NEEDS TO FIND A WAY TO FIX THEIRS......*******.

The girl in this forum with the metal plate fixed her plastic plate so it didnt break now all you need to do is find a way to fix your hard shifting problems...SORRY AGAIN.

I paid close to $200 for the shifter. I am not going to fix a new product that B&M claims is working fine. If you go to B&M's site and download the .pdf instructions for either the 82-92 camaro shifter, or the universal console shifter, neither has any instructions to make adjustments. You must have some sort of special edition instruction manual.

I hate to be a bother.....but this is from my brothers mouth...and his is smooth shifting so...sorry. My bro cant seem to find the manual so its going to be longer...hell maybe he read something wrong, IDK, just saying his feels like butter and he told me there are instructions on how to adjust. IDK guys sorry again. I'll try and find HIS manual

This is the most invalid comment I have heard yet. Automatics were not created for people who did not have the smarts or skills... there are specific reasons why I took my 5 speed out and modified 700 in.

Reliability, the ability to handle more torque.... I guess this makes me lazy because GM put a substandard piece straight drive in my car and I needed something that could handle some real torque.

I guess it makes you lazy too since automatics are a perfect match with nitrous WOT switches, and you can slam the pedal down and go to town.

I am afraid you are sadly mistaken on all accounts.

I agree....PLUS WHATS BETTER THAN WAVING BYE TO SOMEONE WHEN YOUR RACING THEM WHILE THEY SHIFT....LOL. I THINK ITS JUST FUNNY....WAVE AND GO, and of course because the tranny is a more suitable situation for daily driving. I LOVE STICK....but stop and go traffic with a side of drivers who dont use turn signals....yeah..could get harsh. Anyway blah blah blah...IROC AUTO...LMAO. I REALLY DO.

I have a B&M Megashifter on my Z28... makes the 383 a whole lot more fun cant wait till i put the 3.73's in then ill be slapping the shifter a whole lot more :P

I'm now wondering if B&M changed to a non adjustable whatever in order to cut costs. This would explain some things...

Until you're racing somebody, get overzealous and push up too far on your pos stock shifter, and throw it in park, then it's really pointless. No I haven't done it, just illustrating a point of how there is no safety device built into a stock shifter.

I used my stock shifter cable, and it works fine. If it's a little tough getting from P to D, try pushing more towards P before lifting the lever. Just a thought.

i was wondering if you can put in a shift kit and the mega shifter in..does it cause any problems??

I stand by what I said. Read it again (emphasis added) "Automatics were created for and continue to be for people who don't have the smarts or the skills, or who are too lazy, to use a clutch and a gear shift." You just didn't GET what I said.

The FACTORY makes automatics for the lowest common denominator. The old lady, the lazy city boy, the left-hander whose driver-ed instructor let her get away with left-foot braking. The FACTORY doesn't care about us who build them for performance.

You said the same thing yourself, "GM put a substandard piece straight drive in my car and I needed something that could handle some real torque." Unless you built up an automatic to replace your "substandard straight drive," you just put in another substandard piece. A stock 700R4 can't take any more torque than a T5 can. I know this first hand, 'cuz I've personally grenaded stock automatics with pure torque.

The automatic going in my 'Bird won't be stock. I'll build it myself, but it looks like the parts alone are gonna run over 700 bucks! But it's gotta be done if I don't want the thing to uninstall itself from 530+ ft-lbs.

My comment wasn't directed at performance drivers with upgraded automatics. I was talking about normal everyday folk.

Unless you put in a shift kit, a ratchet shifter or a gated shifter is just for looks. Without a shift kit that adds manual control to the transmission, it won't really make use of the shifter. It's good for appearances, and a little bit of play time, but no real use.

This will make me even more popular I guess, but here goes.

Most guys go at it backwards. They put in a shifter without a shift kit. The result is, they get a shifter with a nice feel, but the transmission still doesn't shift instantly when they change gears. The only thing they really gain is, they can hold it in gear longer, then move to the next gear without overshooting the detent. But it won't shift up at 3000 rpm at 3/4 throttle until the governor tells it to, no matter what you do with the shifter!

But put the shift kit in first. Then even with a standard shifter, you get full control of your shifts. It shifts when YOU want it to shift, at any speed and any load.

Putting in a gated or ratchet shifter without a shift kit is just like installing a new set of aluminum heads, then bolting up the stock intake manifold and exhaust logs.

Then how come the 350's only came with 700R4's? I always thought the T5's couldn't handle the torque.

Yeah i thought the 700r4 were rated at more ft-lbs stock.

Also, a normal "shift kit" will only firm up shifts. You need a manual valvebody for full control of your shifts. Pretty expensive for a 700r4 though. I enquired about one b4 beefing the 700r4 in the maro. But its prob worth spending the cash on a turbo 400 or something for that kind of money. I have a beefed up 3/4 clutch pack, hardened shell, all rebuilt and stuff and i'm happy with it. Gonna get a better servo later though.

That may have been part of the GM's logic, but marketing has more to do with it than anything. It's all about the money, you know.

A good T5 history is at http://www.moderndriveline.com/Techn...t5_history.htm. It's written from a Ford point of view, though.

A stock 700R4 can barely handle a stock third-gen 350, if you go by torque ratings. Go to B&M's website and look at the specs on their top street transmission. They won't rate theirs over 450 ft-lbs! That means a mildly-built 350 or 383 may destroy even a B&M-built 700R4.

On the other hand, you can build up a T5 to handle up to 500 ft-lbs/650 horses or more. See http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/as...per-t-5-a.html (650HP SUPER T-5 5 SPEED TRANSMISSIONS & GEAR KITS).

700R4 can be built to take over 900 horses, but be prepared to spend some bucks to do it. I've been doing a lot of research on this lately. My 406 is making about 450 ft-lbs and 380 horses, and I grit my teeth every time I hammer it, expecting my WC T5 to spread itself down the street. (Those are "rated" at ony 265 ft-lbs, but generally can handle 350 ft-lbs or so.)

But I have to wait and build up my budget to build a 700R4 that I've picked up. Basic kit with performance clutches and servos is about $250. Then the upgraded sprags, cages, etc., will add at least another $300. I'm after a torque rating of 550 ft-lbs, 'cuz I plan to do a head upgrade on my 406 that could push it as high as 530 ft-lbs/420 horses. I'd like to keep the tranny in the car, if you know what I mean.
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You don't need to buy a manual valve body to get manual shifts. B&M, TCI, and TransGo all make reprogramming kits that will give you manual shifts with normal operation in "D", and they're typically about 70 bucks.

HAve 84 TA with mega shifter for 4 yrs and not a problem one. Put in manual reverse pattern valve body and had no plates to buy for reverse pattern, Works great both ways. Only problem I had was learning to shift in a reverse pattern............NO FUN GOING FROM 1ST TO NUETRAL!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i just bought a b&m megashifter for my 87 camaro part # 80692 and was wondering is it supposed to come with a backuplight / neutral saftey switch? or do i use my old one from the stock shifter? because mine seems like it didn;t come with one.

If you bought it brand new,then you should have one in the box.If not,go back to where you bought it and tell them.Sometimes things get left out.

Alicat.

yeh i whent back and there gonna send me one. one more thing in the instructions it says i need to buy a relay switch from radioshack part# 275-206 but radioshack does not exist anymore i went to the source but they don't have it. do i really need this part or can i get away without it? thanks

Hey ya'll, I need the rear mounting brackter that holds the rear of the shifter to the floor. I got this off a guy from thirdgen who told me all the parts where there I held it to long and don't remember his name and im short this one part. I need it by sunday the 20th, my car is going to NY from NC then due to me deploying if anyone can help please oh please help a brother out

Automatics were made so you can keep your hand on your girlfreinds leg, and not have to worry about shifting.....I like standards when I was a kid, but would not want my daily driver to be a standard....Used to race one back in the day tho.....

anyone anyone at all

I enjoy a 5sp as much as the next guy...but as much as the next guy I also love LEGS. So...umm, yeah sticking with Auto here. Plus, dont you think its funny to away competition as you beat them in a race while they pay attention to shifting...LMAO. I think thats funny.

Been following this thread for awhile as I having been
running the Mega Shifter in my car for years. Most people
who have one, exprerience the P-R-N- two hand, hunt and
peck problem in one form or other.

Had B&M replace my cable about six months after I got it.
No help-same problem The 1-2-3 rachet shift with
a good trans setup is hard to beat though.

Just wondering if anyone who has gotten the shorter
3' cable has cured the problem with it???

Can't see getting another cable if it doesn't help.
Anyone??

Later