Mlanzo

iTrader: (1)

I had ordered these and installed them. I would rate them an 8 out of 10. Shipping was quick.
Install was straight forward. Get the car up, remove the bolt on the rear holding the LCA. remove the bolt holding the shock absorber. Loose fit the new bracket. i put in the top bolt first. The bolt for the Shock absorber needs some help getting in. I used a thick screwdriver to line up the holes and then vice gripped it together. The bolt slid right in. Pushed the shock absorber back up and on the bolt, put the LCA in its new spot. Tightened it all up, and done. Great product and was the best price I have seen for these brackets.

Dakota W.

So why only 8 out of 10?

Mlanzo

iTrader: (1)

10 to me is perfect. The product took a little persuation to line up by the shock absorber bolt.

FoundersPerf

We can make them go in easier to install but the holes would be sloppier like other companies. If you measure our holes for the mounting we are laser cutting our holes to .472" which is exactly 12mm. The factory hardware is 12mm grade 10.9 and that's what we supply with our kit for a factory fit. Most companies including the set sitting on my desk because we refused to install them on the customers car (name brand) measures at .630" for the upper mount with a 3/8" grade 8 bolt supplied and .500" for the LCA mounting. That's a sloppy design and yes easier to install but not a proper way to design a part. Yes ours will be harder to install because everything must be aligned properly to install but worth it in our opinion.

FoundersPerf

I'm sorry I mis-spoke. The supplied bolt with our competitors kit was a 3/8" grade 5 bolt not grade 8.

Dakota W.

It sounds to me like the OP just didn't have it lined up right, which I could hardly knock points off a good product for.

Mlanzo

iTrader: (1)

All I said was it took some persuasion to line it up. Thats all. It is a great product, and I am very happy with them. Since the company gave some helpful info, I will up my rating to a 9 out of 10.

355sleeper

iTrader: (4)

i just put mine on as well, the one side i had to use a punch on to get the bolts started. the fit was super tight. but think how much it will stiffen up the rear end.

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

Do the founders relo brackets come with a 'pipe' that goes where the original mounting holes are?

Mlanzo

iTrader: (1)

They do. very good quality, and all parts needed. The pipe keeps the fit tight, and makes sure the metal on the rear does not bend in as you tighten it!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Can't go wrong with Founders, Excellent service like that is why I went with them for my LCAs and Panhard bar. I'll buy everything they sell eventually.

Mlanzo

iTrader: (1)

ill be getting the adjustable panhard bar from them. i have a non adjustable now, but i have lowering springs in so i need the adjustable (correct?)

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

Will there ever be some with more locations? I have found that a lot of cars running into the 7 and 8's use more than 2 degrees.

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

^^ There's a guy on bullet that is making some custom sets with just a big slot for infinite degree adjustment (to a point) I think he's running mid 8's on them, weld on of course

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

The very original person (can't recall his name although I had a set on my 92 back then) who started making the very first ones back in 96 (or so) for the street crowd/typical TGO-type person (before TGO even existed) made them taller/longer (hang lower) with 3 lower location holes. I've always wondered why all these other ones are made with only 2 holes & are shorter.

But I do happen to still have a pic of them before they were ever put on!

1BADRZ28

iTrader: (2)

A set like those would be nice.

89ROC-Z

iTrader: (7)

I would just drill another whole in them?

BlackenedBird

iTrader: (5)

The ones that I posted above were designed that way & unless you follow the correct arc? You better have adjustable trailing arms that can handle the new holes location. When LCARBs are designed, the lower holes are designed on an arc to accommodate stock length arms for the buyer who does not have adjustable length arms.

Gotta consider that is there enough room below the 2nd hole for a 3rd hole & still have the strength between the 2nd hole & he new hole plus between new hole & the brackets edge.

88I-ROC

When I looked at the Brackets on the Founders Perf website I didn't recall seeing it came with the pipes for the bolts which is the only reason why I did not ordered them yet. I have the LCA and P-bar set though

Mlanzo

iTrader: (1)

They come with it. Order your set!

FoundersPerf

Yes they come with the support tubes. We just don't have them pictured with the kit.

88I-ROC

Thanks man, I wish I read this thread alot sooner!!

poloaa008

The factory hardware is 12mm grade 10.9 and that's what we supply with our kit for a factory fit.

88I-ROC

I just ordered the relocation brackets the other day, I was wondering what are the flanges that comes from the sides are for..?

Mlanzo

iTrader: (1)

That is the other great thing about these. More support. They go over where the shock absorber connects to the rear. So you will have to remove that bolt, and then get it all lined up. Another pain in the butt, but well worth it. Be patient lining it up. Get the very top bolt in first LOOSE, and then try and get the shock absorber bolt in.

88I-ROC

I figured that was the case, but it seems almost impossible to do because of the angle change. Do you have a picture of how it actually looks on the car with that setup??

Mlanzo

iTrader: (1)

It fits "perfect" and this is why the install is slightly difficult.

1)It would be EASIEST to remove the wheels. I did not.
2)remove the LCA from the rear.
3)remove the bolt for the shock absorber. Not easy.
4)line up the new bracket and get the top bolt thru. remember to use the round tube, not sure what its called) so the bracket coming off the rear does not collapse.
5)line up the bracket with the hole for the shock absorber bolt. again, this is not so simple because the piece is "perfect". i used a socket extension and pushed till I had it ligned up and used a clamp to hold it there. pulled out the socket ext and pushed the bolt in.
6)get the LCA in and then tighten everything up.
7) i highly recommend using lock-tite on all bolt threads.

I do not have a picture, but here is one from the net

88I-ROC

So lineup the shocks first, and then the LCA. I will try that, thanks for the info.
The image is not very clear thou, I will try look for another one.

anesthes

iTrader: (12)

How do you feel about welding them after bolting them in?

-- Joe

88I-ROC

Just came back from the track finally after two weeks these brackets were on my car, so here is my review. it took a little bit of effort to put those in correctly because you have to align them with the shocks. Eventually everything fitted tight as it should be. My only problem was that the shock absorber bolt could not satisfy the extra length needed to lock it correctly with all the hardware that was there before, so something had to be sacrificed. My car was lowered and that LCA angle was pretty bad so the brackets really helped fixing it and I already had the FP's LCA and penhard bar assembled on my car, so I had high expectations. On the streets, I couldn't tell much difference but I was driving with bad rear tires which were Reiken Raptors that had maybe 20% tread left, 2 and half years, and 26,000 miles on them. On the track, before I put the brackets, I couldn't get any traction on 1st and 2nd even with the LCA and penhard bar replaced and my 60' time was 2.65. Tonight I went to the track and was able to pull best of 2.25 on 60', major improvement. So overall, if your car is lowered and you need to fix the angle, don't hesitate and order these brackets. The numbers speak for themselves

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I noticed 8 washers came with the relocation bracket kit.

I am not sure where all these washers go.

I used four of them on one side of the rear, just to "install" the bracket, as I was testing fitment on a rear end on the floor.

Do you have to put washers on the inside of the brackets between the factory LCA mount and the inside of the new bracket?

Or do you just put washers on the outside and on each side of the new bracket?

I noticed that there is just enough space to insert a washer on the inside of the new bracket, on both inner sides.

Anyone know?

Thanks!

Mailman818

@new2chevy... on mine i used two per bolt for the mounting to the rear end on the outsides and the same for the bolts for the lcas. anyone correct me if im wrong but that seems to be how it goes. as for putting a washer on the inside im thinking your saying between the tube?? i wouldnt recommend putting any inside there
the way i see it is the washer is in place like a lock washer to prevent it from becoming loose during vibration. but instead of one lock washer it just two plain washers on the ousides of the brackets.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Thanks for your reply, Mailman.

No, I meant putting a washer between the inside of the new bracket-between the inside of the new bracket and the outside of the bracket that is already on the axle tube. The tube you referred to is the spacer, and that goes between the bracket that is already on the axle tube.

There is enough space between the inside of the new brackets and the outside of the old/stock brackets for a washer. It seems that a washer should be placed in there, so the space is filled and so the new brackets do not bend in toward the outside of the old/stock brackets when tightening them.

I'll post a rough sketch of what I mean.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I talked to a guy at Founders today

OK, so the proper use of the washers is as follows:

Use them on the head and nut ends of the bolts, on the outside, for the brackets and the same for the LCA bolts. Very easy.

The brackets squeeze tightly against the stock brackets, once they are torqued to 89 foot pounds, therefore, eliminating the space between the inside of the brackets and the outside of the stock brackets.

Also, the guy at Founders told me they are nearing completion of a shorter torque arm with separate crossmember, and the torque arm is designed for street, strip, and track.

SWEEEEEET!!!! I'm getting me one of those for sure!

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

I think this is information that we have been hearing since 2011 or so. I have heard and or read that there was supposed to be a strut tower brace as well as Subframe connectors also. Any of those three with a low Founders price we are accustomed to would be killer still.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Founders said they are just waiting on the bushings, from Energy Suspension, for the torque arm. They already have SFC's. I bought a set months ago.

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

You bought SFC from founder's? I just went on their site and found them only for fourth gen, not third.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

They're the same for both cars!

I bought mine for my 95 Bird

Tibo

iTrader: (15)

Well that's neat to know. I already have a set of outers from BMR though. They should make an inner style too.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

4th gen SFcs fit the 3rd gen?

89newfun

iTrader: (3)

I was wondering the same thing, this thread makes me think that yes they do. But, I would like to double check.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

I recall some nice SFC's on here made for a 4th gen From Kenny Brown and someone tried to get them to fit a 3rd and they would not.

With all the sfc's avalible for 3rd gens, it seem silly to try and make some fit that are not made for them.

David 91RS/Z28

I doubt if my Alstons would fit a 4th gen. I'm sure some could go both ways. Interesting though..

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Yes.

Well I could be wrong. I'm checking into it.

Johnny Blaze

iTrader: (15)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...rs-solved.html

white1991rs

I'd say 10 outta 10, I put em on with no persuading, it took like 2 seconds.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

NO THEY DON'T FIT. Earlier I said they do, but they DO NOT. Called Founders.

Sorry all.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I had to use a jack handle and a ratchet extension to slightly "bend" the passenger side bracket to make the shock mount holes line up. I stuck the extension down through the two holes and pulled in the direction the founders bracket needed to go, with a jack handle over the extension.

This was easy for me since my rear diff was on sawhorses.

My shock then mounted perfectly, and the LCA mounted perfectly too.

greenyone

iTrader: (1)

This is an old thread but... I just got my Founders LCA relocation brackets and I'm having the same issues with one of the shock mount holes lining up to the bracket on the rear end. I was thinking of welding up the hole on either the Founders bracket or on the rear end bracket and re-drilling the hole. Does anybody see any issues with this? Would you re-drill the new bracket or the mount on the rear end?

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

Greenyone, read my post #48 here. I also have a thread on another forum with pics. I'll post it here.