gcgarner

We've been doing that on dirt tracks for years!

And based on some of the drifting videos I've watched today, I've decided I'm moving to Hawaii ... the girls there are WELL worth it. I just have to clear it with my wife!

neagan

iTrader: (7)

I'm running the same drivetrain and 2.77 Borg Warner posi. I'm barely breaking loose the rear end. Most of the past few months has been spent doing thorough mantainance and working out poor repairs from the previous owner, so it's really running healthy for a stock set up.
From your pic's, it looks like your getting major easy wheel spin. Is the track surface just more slick than regular asphault? Seriously, let me know in case I'm way down on horsepower and not aware of it yet..... Nitro

ZQ8Dude

He is sideways in those pictures. Once that momentum gets you sideways spinning the tires gets easier. Atleast on my truck it is and im assuming its the same for his camaro.



CrazyHawaiian- did you paint the engine bay or is it still white?? i dont suppose i could ask for a picture of the hood popped?

Chances are when i go chasing a 3rd gen, i wont be able to find a bright racing red one, so im gonna repaint it, but i dont wanna rip out the engine just to change the color

CrazyHawaiian

I agree that its not as much fun to watch people drift as it is actually drifting yourself. Drivers definately have the most fun. When I first got into drifting it was because of the destruction aspect and rush while driving. Doing burnouts and donuts until tires explode was always something I've enjoyed, this new sport was like taking it to the next level. Controlled oversteer through a roadcourse at speed. So after my initial experiences with the sport, I realized that I was addicted because I wanted to better myself. Turns out this was the most fun I've had out of all motorsports I've tried. I see people that are good and I want to be as good as them. So it kind of went from enjoying the destruction of tires and cars to learning control and going faster (more speed = more momentum!) the rush just got crazier and crazier.

I also agree that Drifting is very similar to racing on the Dirt Track. Out of all the racing out there, I believe a Dirt Track racer would have the easiest transition to Drifting (Rally Drivers too). But the main difference between the two is that racing the Dirt Track is an actual race where Drifting is not a race, its an exhibition. So that right there might be the deciding point when people consider getting involved with Drifting. Not everyone enjoys the subjective nature of Drifting competition. For me the draw is actually my own personal enjoyment, not so much the competition aspect.

If you guys want to get involved with Track Drifting I think the West Coast of the USA is the hot spot right now. Hawaii has a great scene but our track on Oahu recently closed so there is no longer a legal scene here, only illegal street drifting. CA, OR, and WA seem to be running real strong with multiple track events a month. And of course, if you don't care about it being legal track drifting then it dosnt matter where you are. Any good mountain road with no people around would make a good drifting spot.

Here's some random Videos since this thread dosn't have enough videos. Both of these show a drifting initiation technique called a Feint where you use weight transfer to initiate a slide. One video on the track, other one on the street.

Feint - Track
Feint - Street

And here's a Video I made for the old club power//slideways (no longer going) more Drifting

Powerslideways Trailer #1

CrazyHawaiian

Burning out and Drifting are two seperate things but if you ask me it all comes down to tire contact patch and traction. Because the sport of drifting involves a loss of traction tire selection is key. Most motorsports you want the most traction possible because its a race, but because drifting is an exhibition everything is relative. The perfect tire setup is the setup that the driver enjoys the most based on his car and his driving style. And to me, this is one thing that makes the sport more fun. You can have a 700hp Mustang drifting next to a 200hp Corolla and it could be an equal battle. Maximum power and traction are not key elements to winning, it all comes down to the drivers confidence, skill, and style.

Because my IROC-Z is a very mild setup I run a relatively small contact patch. But because the car is also heavy my contact patch is bigger then other cars in the sport with similar power levels. Most of the pictures/videos you'll see of the car is was running a 215-235mm wide street tire in the rear. And its usually a cheap/free POS tire. Tire pressure is also an aspect of tuning the cars handling characteristics, I personally run high tire pressure so if it turns out I need more traction I can just let air out to make the adjustment. I'm ghetto. So most of the pictures/videos of the car, its running like 50psi in the rear. So you compare that to even the stock 245 rear tire at the normal 32-36psi, big difference in traction. This is why its much easier to break em loose in my IROC-Z, the car is basically setup to do just that. The other aspect is the driver aspect, pretty much go crazy WOT and pound the crap out of the car. Don't think twice about busting up the car, just GO!!! hahaha. This is a mindset that works good for the sport of Drifting.

Here's a video of me acting retarded in my IROC-Z, just fooling around and doing burnouts. When you watch you can see that a really quick power brake and going WOT with the way the car is setup will result in wheelspin on demand. The car isn't powerfull, its just setup to break em loose. Most of the clips in these videos were taken after we were done drifting and just wanted to explode the tires. And of course, it has the best soundtrack ever used on a burnout video!!

CrazyHawaiian Burnouts!

Just remember again, Burnouts and Donuts .. and Drifting ... two similar but seperate things. Like ZQ8Dude mentioned, while drifting is all different because momentum and driver input is what initiates a loss of traction.

CrazyHawaiian

Unfortunately the only picture I have of the engine bay was from when I was replacing the headgasket, so its all messed up and stuff. But you are correct, the engine bay, interior, and door jams are still white. I'll paint it someday when I get more time, the way this car is, it'll probably have alot of exterior paint color changes from either crashing or becoming too familiar to the local police. I kind of started painting the engine bay after this pic was taken, but gonna have to wait till I swap in the new motor before doing it for real. The interior of the car is one thing I plan to paint soon since it stands out like a sore thumbs with the interior gutted. Here's the engine bay pic:



To answer your question about the E-brake, there are multiple reasons people use it. One good thing to help understand when/why is knowing that there is a difference between drifting with throttle and drifting with brakes. The type of track really determines what techniques the drivers will use, some track are majority high speed turns where people use alot of throttle to generate oversteer and speed, other tracks have very tight slow turns (like a hairpin) where you'll need to scrub off speed, so brakes and momentum will control the ammount of oversteer. As an initiation technique to induce a slide, E-brake is considered weak because its so easy to do, but it is effective. Pulling E-brake at speed while turning into a turn will generate oversteer. Majority of the people that can drift good use the E-brake to either extend or correct angle while already sliding. Its really interesting how driver input controls the car after you've lost traction. Do it the right way and it works great, do it the wrong way and you either spin out or crash. I myself have not had a good working E-brake yet, so all pictures/video you see was all steering input and brake/throttle. But one day I do hope to have a solid E-brake setup (actually a staging brake to the rear brakes) along with a solid 5 speed setup so I can use the clutch kick to initiate slides.

ZQ8Dude

so it is getting big in Ca? hmm maybe ill have to run to an event to play around. I doubt id get too far into it, because racing for me is the thrill of blasting out of a corner as fast as humanly possible and the thrill of passing the guy ahead of you desperately trying to hold onto his lead.

BTW, whats your Orange Z28 run in the 1/4?? ive always wondered what a vortech'd L98 will run.

Also, when the 89's tranny goes, any plans to go to a 5/6spd or are you just gonna rebuild the 700R4?

ZQ8Dude

hmm maybe ill have to chase a black 305 of some sort, so once i paint it a vibrant red, it wont look so bad.

on the 5spd note...so much nicer!, my DD truck is 5spd, letting the clutch out quickly is kinda fun to do a drift...plus you can really scare your friends without warning

So a drift with an ebrake is essentially like hydroplaning on dry ground?? Where in alot of cases poor use of the throttle and steering can cause a crash in a hurry?

CrazyHawaiian

Yeah I say go for it, but you might be supprised. I know when I first tried it I was thinking it would be a one time deal. But after doing it it was just so much fun I got addicted. So watch out man!! hahaha

Back in 2004 I turned the stock 700R4 into a 1 speed POS (hahaha) so I ended up swapping in a TH350. No problems since then, even while abusing the crap out of the car. I got a deal on the TH350 too so I can't complain. But in general, all automatic transmissions are a disadvantage in the sport of Drifting. Even if I had a full manual valve body. With an Auto you lose out on some initiation techniques that require a manual transmission with a clutch. So for like a year I saved up and finally I bought myself a crazy birthday present, a G-Force built T5 rated at 600hp that was assembled by TKO Performance. While it was being assembled I've been saving again and soon I should be able to afford a E-bay special $800 0 mile rebuilt bottom end 4 bolt main 350SBC that I can use with the 113 Corvette Aluminum heads I already have. Still deciding on what Intake/Cam I wanna use, but the goal is 350rwhp, 6000RPM Redline. Hope to install that along with the 5 speed and Spec Stage 1 Clutch and Spec Flywheel for a fresh 0 mile drivetrain. Can't wait!!

Not sure what my Z28 runs in the 1/4 mile. Before I could set it up good the local track closed. I would guess its in the low 13's. Its a good race with a LS1 but a LS6 pulls me. To be honest its a real letdown because the L98 is a low RPM motor and the centrifugal blower builds boost in the higher RPM's, mismatched powerbands makes it a letdown. But I've got plans to solve that, you can find more info in my Z28 thread (link in sig).

CrazyHawaiian

To be honest its really hard to explain in words. Generally speaking, poor use of the throttle and steering can cause a crash in a hurry would apply in almost all situations. The best way to see it is to experience it. So if you do goto Cali for some events then ask one of the drivers if you can ride along. The thing is, momentum really changes how things turn out. Pulling E-brake to initiate a slide going 10mph will have very different results from doing it at 50mph. And same thing goes for when people use the E-brake to correct or extend a slide while already sliding sideways at speed. Requires a great ammount of confidence to get the desired results.

6SPEEDEMON

How does it react with the coil-overs...just curious cuz I drift with hotchkis coils, and the steering is quite responsive. BTW who are those made by

ErG0

Damn dude MAJOR props on your car... I am downloading the vids now...

CrazyHawaiian

Hey right on thanks, enjoy those vids.

The weight jacks are not true coilovers, they are just spring perches that allow you to adjust the spring height. The weight jacks themselves only affect ride height, the spring itself (with whatever rates) is what makes the car handle/feel different. I think Hotchkis springs are progressive rates but I'm not sure. To be honest I didnt get a chance to really drive hard with the new suspension. So I can't really form an opinion. Ever since I got the new suspension stuff installed the drivetrain has gone to hell and thats been holding me back. First the headgasket blew and it took me months to fix that since I wanted to do it by myself. Then last week after I finally got the engine going again and everything setup right, the engine blows up again while idling in the garage (working with the cooling system). Probably an oil system failure. So the car has been sitting for 6+ months and it looks like it'll be sitting longer now that the bottom end finally went. I have another bottom end I'm gonna swap in but its unknown condition block so who knows. For now my focus is on other projects, finally getting my Z28 on the road and prepping the newest project (pre 85 chassis) for some street drifting.

Anyone else thats interested in drifting their 3rd gen should sign up on the forums at driftingforums.com because there is a section specifically for domestic drifting that will have its own website soon (domesticdrifting.com)

CrazyHawaiian

Just to give an update on this project, finally getting the drivetrain worked out. The plans kind of changed, ended up buying a motor from someone here locally, its a 355ci 010 block with 11:1 pistons and comp cams valvetrain and cam. Here's a picture:



Right now I'm deciding if I should slap TPI on top and keep EFI or just run a Carb. Keeping EFI would probably be easier but I dunno how thats gonna affect the performance of this motor. I think the cam specs are geared more towards a single plane Carb style Intake.

Don't have a picture of the Transmission but I decided to go with the T56. The built T5 I was talking about earlier is gonna end up in a different project.

As far as appearance, the 89 IROC-Z drifting project is changing again. I'm setting it up to match the 84 drifting project. The rear bumper was swapped to 91-92 style. The 89 sideskirts were left on, but the upper door sideskirt pieces removed. The front clip was swapped to 91-92 style. I could get a picture but right now the car is 3 different colors and its sitting on jackstands with no drivetrain. The car will be painted Black as soon as I get it running.

Jtufts

glad to see its still going at least =)

Blue1989RS

Domestic Drifters Unite!

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

That T5 still workin out for ya?

CrazyHawaiian

Yeah Domestic Drifters Unite!!

I am sad to admit that I have not even installed the GForce T5 yet. I saved up for so long to buy it and now its just been sitting for like 6/8 months. There have been alot of other things going on with me and I have not been able to spend as much time with the cars as I want. The IROC-Z is still sitting on jackstands with no drivetrain, and soon it will need to be towed. I will be moving to a new place soon, hopefully after thats done I will have more free time to get these projects moving!!!

soultron

iTrader: (2)

Since you have the Cama-roku, maybe you can let me know if you ditch the Gforce...wink wink. I know I could use it!

ThatInternetDud

Wow! The 3rd Gen Camaro is by far one of my top favorite looking cars. When I searched for Iroc drift in google I expected to find no results but to my surprise I was wrong.

Seeing this thread got me all excited, since I love the look of this car, but im not all about the drag strip and I'd be VERY interested in doing this sort of thing myself. However I have some questions and concerns.

First, weight. Domestics are known for being heavy (the engine usually puts out enough power where it doesnt matter) so how does this come into play with drifting?

Second, the transmission. All of my cars have been automatics. v6 Accord, auto. SLK230, automatic. Tiburon, automatic. I've driven a few manuals and loved it, but it makes me sad when the powerful 3rd gens only come with autos and to get that changed costs quite a lot (I dont make too much and im still in university). What do you recommend? Or just screw it? I just want to have fun in a beautiful car like this and being able to say I drift a camaro would surely make some people say "Whaaat?" Not a very common thing :P

Another thing is im not much of a gear head, im willing, but not comfortable diving into the engine and tinkering / fixing / replacing.

Blue1989RS

i forgot about this thread. Lol. I did some more drifting since my last post. Check out:

www.dailymotion.com/blue89rs

You should find a few good vids of me at the Monroe Speedway.

Oh ya, a manual is easier to drift with, but an auto is good to learn with. Really hard to stall it. Lmao.

Sonar_un

Holy crap! Talk about a thread back from the dead!

AmorgetRS

iTrader: (6)

Damn dude, No Walls, No *****, right? How much damage did you cause nosing it in like that?

Blue1989RS

This is back cause I can never find crazyhawaiian except for random posts here. Lol.

The car was fine. Oddly. I did three more runs after that one. Bent the crash bumper, crushed the headlight bar, and bent the hood! But the chassis is still pretty straight. I started a cardomain for my zany car tricks, but thats all I've put in it right now. I actually have to drive that car tomorrow to work cause the LT1 died during my lunch break

How you doing Amorget?

Feniks9174

Have my own project going now, '86 Z28. We bought it for $2,500 and was basically bone stock. It had been gone through and cleaned up since the car had been sitting for 6 years before the seller got a hold of it.




The stock motor died a week or two after we got the car, so we pulled it and swapped in a ZZ383 Crate Motor (if you're going to do something, do it right ;D ). We also replaced the stock Shocks and Springs with adjustable KYB's and Eibach Sportlines. We welded up the differential the night before our first event a few weeks ago.

The car works great in the small stuff, 1st gear donuts and figure eights, but has too much flex in the chassis to be predictable in a second gear slide.

I'll try to get some action shots and maybe a vid posted up soon. Plans for the future include getting the car smogged and some SFC's before the next event.


This is the most fun I've ever had in a driver's seat . . .

soultron

iTrader: (2)

Good stuff! Bring on the pics!

Blue1989RS

Feniks, I'd say before you start blaming chassis flex to replace all the rear bushings with poly and make sure you have a LCA relocator bracket. Also a numerically high rear gear helps. I'd say 3.42 or higher. When the back end is sliding you can control how far it goes out by spinning the tires faster or slower. Taller gears get you more wheel torque and let you spin the tires up faster.

Just my observation.

SLP_GTA

iTrader: (1)

Keep the TPI it really helps the low end TQ

Feniks9174

I'll keep that in mind. I just know how much the SFC's tightened up my RS and at the very least it couldn't hurt.

We were a tad underprepared this time. Not enough spare wheels and no spare gas. Once I was finally getting a hang of the car and figuring out what I was doing, the gas was sloshing around too much to keep the motor running

Doesn't look like I'll have any pics. I was hoping that Edrft.com made it out to the event and was taking pictures (they did last time), but it doesn't look like they did. We didn't take a still-shot camera with us, either. I'll grab the video camera from my parent's house later this week and see if my dad got any good footage.

Blue1989RS

Good to hear! No walls no ***** though right? Lol.

What spring/sway setup are you running? A stiffer rear will help with oversteer quite a bit. One thing I've always wanted to try too is to toe out the front massively to help with turn-in toe.

Feniks9174

Honestly, I don't understand that phrase . .

Sway bars are still stock, they're still on the to-do list. Springs are Eibach Sportlines that we changed out almost as soon as we got the car.

With Christmas coming, in-laws coming from out of town and my wife in "give-birth-any-day-now" status, I don't really see a whole lot happening with the car any time soon as far as modifications go. I still want to take it out next weekend, though.

soultron

iTrader: (2)

Way to go either way. Good to hear of more Fbodies drifting. Bushings will help, but you might wanna get an adjustable panhard bar if you lowered it. It made a big difference on my car, looks and track wise.

Feniks9174

Lots of good advice here. Thanks to both of you.

@Soultron - Why an adjustable Panhard bar instead of just a stiffer one? Also, which one did you use?

@Crazy Hawaiian - If you're still around, what's with the billet shock mounts? Just for looks?

Feniks9174

Went out this weekend and sucked until the welds broke on the differential. I'm a little pissed about it, but just 'cause all of my attempts up until the actual break were just terrible. I'd be alright with it if I had gotten some decent slides going . . .


Anyway, took it back home and put it on the scales, just to see. After pulling out the back seats, the back section of carpet and a ton of random plastic inside the car (consoles, heater ducts) the car is just under 3,000 lbs with a mostly full tank of gas and no driver.

I'm wondering if I should start my own progress thread instead of hijacking someone else's . . .

Blue1989RS

Its all good man.

Panhard bar: As you lower the rear of the car, the panhard bar will push the axle towards the driver side. This has the effect of binding the LCA's as they are pushed sideways as well.

Billet Shock Mount: If you look at the stockers, there is a thick rubber gasket that the top of the shock mounts to. This allows for front suspension slop. A solid mount is better for feel and alignment. Also transfers more noise and vibration to the chassis.

How did you get your car so light? Mine came in at 2930 with a full'ish tank, no driver. With a V6 too!

What are you having troubles with? Just keeping the slide or initiating?

Feniks9174

I don't know how much the ZZ383 weighs in comparison to the stock 305, but other than the motor swap, all we've done to it is pull out the rear seats, the carpet under the hatch section and some plastic.

Also, the car was stock with no A/C, no power anything. That might also have something to do with it.


It was mainly just the initiation. I was trying to do a J-Turn in the skid pad and I couldn't get the thing loose to save my life. I tried feints and I tried clutch kicks, by the car just kept plowing. I think I know what I was doing wrong, though. I was going into the turn pretty fast, but I think I might have been letting off right before I initiated. It's still a little unnatural for me to go into a relatively sharp turn with my foot in the throttle. Clutch kicks don't do a whole lot if the motors not turning enough to upset the car.

Blue1989RS

My tactic with most everything is to throttle-over. I'm thinking there has to be something to having a tall rear gear too. Cause my V6 (4.11) drifts WAY better than my LT1 car (3.07). If I'm going into a right J-turn like you described I'll turn right way early, left hard, then break the rear loose as I turn right again to make the J-turn (I believe thats feint drift?).

If you are turning gradual to the right on a smooth surface, can you throttle over without clutch kick and maintain? I have a video of me drifting around a cul-de-sac for an example. www.dailymotion.com/blue89rs. You can also see the vid of the feint drift right before I hit the wall... Damn new tires....

Feniks9174

We're going to put 4.10's in it when we fix the differential. Ken Gushi was out there this weekend and we were talking to him about his Mustang that he runs in Formula D, that's about the gearing he uses.

Yeah, I can just power over if the turn's not too tight. The motor still has all of the 305 parts and pieces on it since we were trying to get it smogged, so t kind of burps and lays down right at the bottom (under 2000 rpm).

I just wish I could get more seat time. I don't like drifting on the streets and one event a month isn't a lot. Especially when you break within the first hour. It will have been over two months without real practice time by the time the next even rolls around.

Blue1989RS

I totally feel you on that one. We have a highway with some really good onramps and some side roads that work really well to practice on. No way am I getting into an accident with someone due to drifting! So I only do it on the onramps or when noone is around.

ken Gushi of Toyo Tires? I didn't realize he drove a mustang too! Haha, cool that you could talk to him. All the drifter's I've been around have always seemed pretty decent people. Rhys Millen is a little cocky in my opinion.

Feniks9174

Yeah, he ran the Mustang most of the season this year. It was awesome seeing it in person, though. He was making passes through the 4th gear course and you could hear him from the other side of El Toro Air Field. It rocked . . .

He seemed like a nice guy, though. Taka Aono and Hiro Sumida taught me in my Drift 101 class, both really nice guys. Apparently one of our vendors at work is good friends with Sam Hubinette, hoping to meet him some time.

Rhys is one of those guys with a Pedigree, though. His dad Rod Millen's been doing Off-Road racing since long before I was born and Rhys has really helped to pioneer drifting in the states. I can understand if he's a little cocky. He had a rough season this year, maybe that humbled him a little bit.

Blue1989RS

I really enjoyed the Discount tire 69 Camaro. BBC all motor. That thing rumbles down the track! I met Sam Hubinette "crazy swede". Really cool guy.

Feniks9174

I remember seeing the Falken Camaro in a couple video's and the Cooper third-gen, I didn't know there was another one.

It's cool seeing domestics in this sport. I always feel like people are giving me wierd looks when I take the Camaro out. So many 240 SX's . . .

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Yo blue I finally checked your vids....GOOD SHYT. Im just getting into this drifting thing (only thing I ever drifted was my 60mph go-kart and my buddies 2 four-wheelers in which case I never knew could be drifted so well, be sure to lean, ya dont want to flip over).

Anyway I have an 89 IROC. I plan to do all suspension, drivetrain and weight reduction mods I can before I look into beefing the LO3 up (Yes I am keeping my LO3).

I plan to start the drifting preparation when I get new gears (I have 2.73's right now) and as stated by you and others I will need at least 3.42's might go with 3.73's. That and I have an AUTO

But umm, I guess all I can say now is WINTER SUCKS.

Feniks9174

Unless you're trying to keep the thing street/freeway driveable, I would go even higher than 3.73's. Maybe 4.10's or something near there.

Good to see more people doing this, though. Let us know how it goes.

Blue1989RS

oops, ya, the Falken 1st gen. I didn't know cooper had a 3rd gen! I'll look it up.

No problem with the auto IH8. You'll benefit from a shift kit though! Both my cars are auto and do fine. If the V6 had more power it would do way better. Get your rear suspension beefed up a bit with urethane and bigger sway bar and you'll be halfway there. You can get a 1-2 gear servo thing from summit for cheap. It will firm up your shifts a lot.

Winter is awesome! Lots of rain up here in the NorthWest and that makes for good slow drifting. Maybe I'll take the camaro to work tomorrow speaking of which. A friend at work said he'd like to go for a "spin" sometime.

I'm going to swap a turbo 454 in my V6 car this spring. Should sound good on the track!

Feniks9174

I wish it rained more often down here, winter in So-Cal just means a break from the 100 degree weather.

Turbo 454? Dang . . .

Why the Big Block and not something lighter?

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

I am going to stick with the 3.73's so I can keep it streetable, and not worry about burning more rubber going to an event than being at one..LMAO.

Well I do need a new trans so Im going to be looking for a full T5 conversion, possibly get the used conversion from hawks for $1200...that includes everything for the conversion except some type of GUIDES or GUIDE PLATES? Let me know about those plates?

http://www.hawksthirdgenparts.com/in...OD&ProdID=1314

Blue1989RS

I've determined that to do 2 wheel drifts it doesn't matter what your weight dist is, as long as the nose is heavier. BBC's don't add that much more weight than a SBC. Seems like everyone says around 150lbs. We'll see when I do the swap! I'm just hoping to have too much power so I can drift at much faster speeds. The V6 is useless at 40+mph. Even though the first bank at Monroe speedway I'm going 60. I think it has to do with their track.

The BBC is also convienent. A guy at work is giving it to me for some work. So I'll try it out.

IH8, $1200 is a bit much for that swap. Check your local junkyard for a manual fbody. Those tranny's go for about $400. If you keep the 305 the normal T5 will work. A 350 needs the World Class T-5 (WCT-5). You'll blow the normal T5 up if you drift with it.

I H8 WWD

iTrader: (5)

Ha ha, its winter time, Im not going to any junkyard to remove transmissions anytime soon. Plus, Im not to sure I know of everything I need, in this case hawks'll send me every nut and bolt except those guides in which they say are DISCONTINUED...so what do I do about those?

Im going to search some other boards and classifieds and see if I cant get a T5 maybe even a WC T5 cheaper in which case would I need to convert anything for the WC T5 compared to the NWC T5 in my 305 LO3? Let me know and Ill be back to check.

Blue1989RS

I don't know about the guides. I have a manual pedal swap sitting in my garage. Maybe they mean guides to help you drill holes? That would be the hardest parts.

For a T5 swap, all you need is the tranny, hydrolic pedal setup, uh, clutch, 5sp center console, and um, ya, thats it. Really fricken simple. You can use your 700r4 tranny crossmember with the T5. The hardest part will be to cut the tranny bump hole and pedal holes.

Seriously though, get the WC-T5. IIRC, the NWCT5 was only designed to handle 300ftlbs. The WCT5 handles 350ftlbs. They are exactly the same looking, but the WCT5 has a sticker on the side that says to use Dextron III (ATF). Everything else is the same.