for the lock actuators. mine has trouble locking but no problem unlocking. is there an easy fix or must i buy another one?

I'd try cleaning and relubing with white grease in advance of buying another.

JamesC

I need the spring for the drivers side door that holds the door open. Any ideas where to get it from?

Should be thousands of them in the bone yards.

JamesC

i tried that and that did not work

Power door locks clicking but not budging could very well be the relays in the kick panel area apparently. Just need to change those out and it might work.

Thanks for info. but arent all doors same for third gen camaro? My driver side door seems to be kinda short where I can put my finger in with door close. help?

Short as in not long enough? Is there is a gap then perhaps your doors are not aligned properly? Mine were off a bit but not enough to put a finger in! Maybe ur bushings/hinges are so worn out, can u post a pic of ur hinges/bushings?

Hey I got a question do all of the doors for the third gen camaro the same size? Because my drive side door has large gaps when closed like finger size can fit in.

Yes.

JamesC

I will soon as I can, unforunately can't do it until weekend because I go to college during week. I'll get picture of hinges and the gaps.

Alright cool... Also, when the door is open, can you physically lift the door and move in up / down? If so, some bushing is definitely worn out.. There are upper, and lower bushings/pin. When I replaced all of mine it closes like new, door closes with no effort and has a nice tight seal with no rattles at all (thanks to JAMES C. for all the information on this thread!)

Hey I finally got those pictures of my doors gaps, please post me answers on what to do to fix the gap thanks!
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Heres my passenger side, which is not bad except i think its kinda low when scratching the door trim at bottom.
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FryeDaddy, since your posts are off topic, you might consider posting in the Body forum for better responses.

JamesC

"when the door is open, can you physically lift the door and move in up / down?"

This will tell us if the bushings are worn. Hard to tell from pic but I see the gap.; Also, your passenger side has some sort of rubber bumper in between the door? Was that on there stock?

Thanks all this stuff your talking about in the door has been driving me buggy for sometime and since My doors are meant for cranks but have power windows. There is so much limiting the stability of the Window Motor because it really has nothing to attach too. If i showed you some pics youd see what i mean exactly..lol .. If you dont already got the mental picture of what i mean.

I just bought an 85 IROC, the drivers side window rattles when I shut the door? Sounds like the window is loose. It doesn't rattle when I'm driving. It's window crank, not power windows. I'm thinking loose window guides, how do I adjust the guides without causing air noise or leaking? Thanks

I have the same problem but I have power windows and I got air noise but no leaks

is the window completely rolled up? Half way down? All the way down? At different heights it could be different culprits.. For example:

Completely rolled up: your window may need to be adjusted for a higher max height to come into contact and be tight with the weatherstripping. Is it t-top or hard top? Also good to inspect for wind noise...

Half / partial height: Window fuzzies under the top door panel. Tighten these or replace if totally worn out.

Rolled down all the way: It might be rolled down too far because the stops are not there anymore so it goes lower than it should and isn't tight anymore.

To adjust the upper window guides you need to remove the door panel and upper trim piece. You'll need a T15 and T30 to remove the door handle and center trim piece. Be careful of the trim piece because not all of the screw heads are real. A tool like the one below helps loosen the panel. Then while holding the panel upward with a little pressure, smack the trim piece inward along its length to loosen it. IIRC, the window needs to be part way down as well.



The guides are pictured below and if loose you'll notice a gap between them and the glass. Be careful adjusting them because they do wear through and can scratch the window and you'll need to run the window up and down to make sure it's not too tight in certain spots.

Fixed! Thanks for your response. It was the guides. I removed the handle, one screw on top and two on the bottom. I removed the window crank with a removal tool (bought for $3 bucks at auto store) it simply pushes the metal u-shaped retainer out/ opposite side of tool pushes the retainer back in. I removed the door handle, lock and mirror control cover by simply turning it out over the inside door handle, hex only fits actual retainer screws, the fake heads were too small to engage (didn't force) funky pattern. The maual lock button was easily pry'd out with a small screw driver. the mirror control was heald on with a small metal retainer, removed it with needlenose plyers (just turned out). The plastic retainers around the door were easily popped with a screw driver, I took my time so not to damage the paint on door or break the plastic retainers. When it came time remove the door panel..well, that was a bear. The door panel was never removed and it was tight. I tried pulling, manipulating and everything elseing while lifting the door. No luck, finally after continued effort I heard a pop! The funny thing is the last time I removed a door panel on a third generation the latch side of the panel came out first, this time it was the hinge side. Anyway, once the panel was removed I immediately noticed that one window guide was somewhat flush against the glass and the other left a gap, however, both were tight?. I used a 10 milimeter socket, adjusted both guides so that they were flush/ tight, but overly tight. I shut the door and it shut like new, no rattle. I didn't have to adjust height or anything. The window was even with the top of the car and it sealed nicely. That was it, rattle gone. I then used a lubricant spray and sprayed all working parts. The window cranked easy before, now it cranks like new! I put the door back together and opened and shut it several times with a sense of accomplishment that only those of us who are not true gear heads can feel. Thanks again for responding

Good job! When I re-did my doors it was like night and day difference! There's plenty of stuff you can do in there to 'tighten' up things..

Fantastic! I'm glad it went so well.

Frydaddy- if you lift the front of the driver's door, the gap at the rear should close up and so should the one at the front...

Another way to reduce window slop- pull the front window guide out)two bolts and it lifts out). Check the track. These tend to spread over time. Just squeeze it back together until the window just slides through it. Reinstall and see if that doesn't help things!!

Thanks I'll try doing that this weekend, sadly im in college during week.

I'm not quite sure I understand this procedure? What do you mean by 'window guides'? Are you talking about the roller towards the front of the car? IF so I know what you are talking about and mine is somewhat loose in there, i can see it wiggle around but it looks like there's nothing much I can do to remedy that except for tightening the window fuzzies as best as I can.

Also, what can I squeeze back together? The track itself??