Charged350

iTrader: (1)

ok, so im about to shave me door handles off after i got rid of my fender markers , but i donno how hard it is to put in one of these kits, i have limited time to do this cuz i have to get the paint dne, so any help or kits or link would be appreaciated....

Kandied91z

iTrader: (7)

look up autoloc for starters on the web. searching mini/sport truck sites will help too. just get heavy duty poppers though since the doors are heavy.

kretos

don't get to big of a kit, these doors don't need to be flying open and hitting other cars just popping enough so you can open it with hand

Kandied91z

iTrader: (7)

"ejecto seato cuz!"

kretos

hahaha

SLOWFIVEOH

iTrader: (2)

Really not very hard to do at all, We did it on my brothers truck, both sides in under an hour, Or you can just do like my Isuzu truck is now, No poppers, I just hooked the door release to the key lock and shaved the handle. So you put the key in and turn it and voila the door opens, Or if you have power windows, my friend bought a cheap remote with sensor and wired it to the down wire on his power window motor, So you hit the button, window goes down, reach in and open door... For the popper kits, Autoloc is prolly the most well known, but also the most expensive, check out some minitrucker sites like www.aimind.com , and www.fbimini.com as well as many other sidtes!

Camaroguy18

I used the kit from summit, and it works perfect....came with 45lb solenoids and they are just right. I had a friend do the install since he has done them before (and had the tools to make it easier)...took about an hour and after watching him I realized I could have easily done it as well....I spent 200 total

ll-84camaro-ll

lol thats good stuff
i can picture somebody doing this and totaly overkill on the solenoids. hit the button and their door blows off and flys across the parking lot

ll-84camaro-ll

would 35lb solenoids be enough because i dont see the 45lb kit on summit

MrDude_1

keep in mind what these parts DO.


does it take 35lbs of force to LIFT THE HANDLE of your door? no?

well thats all the solenoid is doing. its pulling the latch of the door open.
it is NOT opening the door.


the little spring popper is what pushes the door open a few inches, NOT the 'noids.

Camaroguy18

yea I didnt mean to go with the 45lb ones...I just looked for the cheaper middle of the line kit and ordered the 35lb ones, but for some reason I recieved 45lb ones....the part numbers from their catalog and online shop differ in the kit you get yet the number is the same.....go figure

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

cool, im gonna order that kit from summit from electric life and put it in when i get it, i work at a body shop, i jus wanted to see how long it would take me to put it in agains other people times, adn see if it will mess up my schedule with body work and paint

Thax again guys u da best

confucius101

cool what was/is the cat # you all ordered????

ll-84camaro-ll

i believe it is this one that they got

VIA-80158-35DP Remote "Shaved Door Handle" Kit, 2 Door, 35 Pound Solenoids, w/door Poppers $125.69

SLOWFIVEOH

iTrader: (2)

Install the poppers and get everything working good before you remove the handles and start welding! Just a piece of advice, We had one of my brothers solenoids fail and we had to return it So we had to go a week without a passenger side door handle or way to open it from the outside.

Camaroguy18

the kit number and price is correct, for what I had.....and I would hope that you would install before removing/welding handles

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

ELI 99800 thats the part number for the kit i ordered...50 pound 'noids, thrusters, cable, full alarm, plug n play harness n hardware. cant wait till it comes in, summit usually gets me my **** in 2 days...

confucius101

50lbs
why so high?

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

Redraif and I both have the VPA (Summit) kits on our cars, and they're pretty much trouble free. Hers is the base kit (ordered it several years ago); mine has the 10 function remote. The solenoids are more than adequate to pull the door latches; and their poppers are strong enough to open the door without smacking into the car next to you...pretty much ideal for a thirdgen IMHO.
Once you have installed the kit though, you might want to leave your inside door panels off for a couple weeks in case anything needs adjustment.

Camaroguy18

yep, thats the kit I had, and I kept my panels off and played around with them to make sure they work correctly ALOT, before it went into the shop. When I get my car back (*** who knows when) Ill take pics of how the kit was installed, as it isnt done in the traditional method that I have seen...but it's way more efficient

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

I'd be really interested to see that...always looking for a better way to do things. Mine is installed identically to Redraif's...she did the electricals, I did the shaving. Its on her site somewhere (its changed a lot lately).
http://www.cardomain.com/id/redraif

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

ok, so i got the kit, its a nice kit, i have everything figured out, cept on how to wire up the power door locks

thre is a yellow red wire and a blue red wire for one channel and then there is a yellow black wire and a blue black wire for another chanel, now where do i wire these in, i know its for the motor that operates the power locks, but i donno where to do it, i was thinking maybe to do it behind the buttons on our door panells, and i would only need to do it to one side, since they are already connected side to side, i donno help me out here.

I already found a spot for the solenoids, right under the latch in the door and the noid wiring is simple, now i have to wait to finish the body work and take hte doors off and run the emergency cable entry system, or just use my hatch..

Ok, im off to pary and then i have to go to the shop tommorow and get crackin on he body work, wish me luck guys...

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

cmon guys, how do i wire these power door locks up man....guys.....ahh...guys...

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

My car doesn't have power door locks, and Redraif's didn't come with them either (though I think she has aftermarket ones now).
I had thought about adding them, but didn't really see the need...unless maybe you're thinking that it might give a little more security. I don't think hers are linked to the remote for the doors in either case.

shaveit

can people with shaved handles post pics? i think it looks sweet.

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

so how does one get in the car then....

omnipotentgoku

iTrader: (1)

Pray that some thirdgen gremlin has not milked your battery dry, and press the button.

redraif

go in thru the trunk. same if remaote fails. Also the kit does not require much power. unless the abtt is toast it should still pop the door.

MrDude_1

why worry?

if it wont pop the door, then the car isnt starting anyway... lol.


on a convertible, its even easier. you open the trunk and reach under the decklid to unlatch the back of the top.
flip the top forward and you can just get in the car. no problem.


well, besides you having a dead battery. lol.




the only thing i dont like is it makes you not NHRA legal.

Kandied91z

iTrader: (7)

if your nhra competative your probably not worried about shaved handles.

iansane

iTrader: (1)

That's one thing I hate. I love the lines of the doors without the handles but I wouldn't be able to hit the track. I plan to just mold in a set of handles from a newer car and shave the locks.

Dante93GTZ

iTrader: (5)

I was thinkin' the same thing, but I haven't found any handles that are square enough to fit the 3rdgen lines.

Well, maybe 4th gen ones, but I don't know if that'd work.

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

You could use handles from an 88-up Chevy truck...they're sort of square, and I have seen them fitted to lots of other vehicles.
Everyone says that shaved handles aren't NHRA legal, but our local 1/4 mile track doesn't care (or notice, not sure which) so it hasn't been an issue.

Dante93GTZ

iTrader: (5)

The chevy truck ones are a little too big and square (or maybe just obvious) for my taste...

As for the handle at the track thing... Why not just put magnets on the back of the stock handle and stick it on the door? heheheheheh

MrDude_1

what? you cant look good and still go fast?.... ahhh. that explains why you cant get your car running right... it looks too damn good to even move. (kidding )

someone worried about it would be... i donno, someone like me, who takes it bracket racing sometimes, but likes the look.

great idea. that way, when they go to pull your unconcious butt out of the car in a crash, the handle can come off in his hands.
or more likely, it'll fall off mid track.


you CAN have shaved handles if the inside handle can be reached from the outside with the "windows" up... some guys have a circle cut in the lexan windows, and raise the handle up high, so its easy to reach.

redraif

The magnetic door handle works. We had a friend that used to do this as a prank. He got people to pull on it all the time and freak out when the handle came off the door! Made them think they broke his car.

KBeez

I'm thinking about doing the '88-94 gm truck handle swap, but does anyone have any pictures of it done on a thirdgen?

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

If there is a serious crash, the door is probably toast and won't open anyway. It doesn't take that much of an impact to jam the door shut. Most people who shave handles aren't building super fast cars anyway...usually 12s or slower, and they're less likely to be beating on them every weekend at the strip. My car is shaved, and will be much faster than that, but I'm building more of a pro touring type car rather than a drag car. It'll see the strip a few times I'm sure, but I'm building it more as a weekend driver. Honestly, I'd be more concerned about other safety issues that people overlook...not running a driveshaft loop with slicks, stock bellhousings on manual cars, c-clip rearends, etc.

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

ok ok, ill get it to the track, sumhow, trust me that no problem, the only problem im having right now is that my thristers broke, i figured out the locks and everything works, but i musta placed the thruster in a bad spot and it broke it, so anyone who can give me a pic of where to place the thruster wuld be perfect, im shaving them off this weekend after work one day....

Camaroguy18

thruster?....you must mean solenoid.....Im gonna run down to the shop where my car is at (and has been for 10 weeks now ) and I will snap a pic of my setup.....I know I said I would long ago, I just figured I'd have my car back by now....

LT1guy

iTrader: (1)

He's referring to the popper, not the solenoid. Mine (and Redraif's...she did both, they are identical) are located on the inside edge of the door, just below the latch. You can see it on the picture of the pass side door panel.

http://www.cardomain.com/member_page...191601&page=50

If you're having trouble with the popper itself, ther'e's more than likely some misalignment, probably aggravated by sagging door hinges or lack of door weatherstrip (if you're in the paint/body phase). If your door sags, they won't work right.

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

the solenoids work fine, theh open the door, its these little thrusters i got in the kit that arent working with me, they state there should be 3/4 of a inch of space for them to pus a door open and there isnt, so im wondering where to put them, adn icouldnt see anythng in that pic..

They require no holes drilled in the door, one part is in a shape of a V adn the other one that actually goes on the door is just a rub plate, its different from other thrusters, its in the summit mag, in the electronics section look at it....i need help, i wired it all up, it works, i just have to grab the door a little when i click it adn it opens, i just have to find a way to pop it topen....

Camaroguy18

well I had the vpa kit from summit (just restating) and I ended up drilling a hole in the door for the poppers.....it made more sense and was easier IMO.....again Ill show pics asap

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

ok, im thinkin of gettin some of those poppers cuz they look better then the flimsy little ones that stick to my door with tape, so if anyone cxan get me a link where i can get a set taht would be great...thanx guys

breakthelawinaz

hey i was always thinking of using my door lock solenoids, i have keyless entry alrady why couldnt i rig something up to pull the lock by using the keyless entry remore and not have the hassle of another solenoid?

*Eric*

KBeez

hey breakthelaw, that has been done!! Using the stock sylenoids works
But as to how to do it, I don't have any more info heh.

redraif

It depends on how your keyless was hooked up. Did it use the stock solenoids? Mine was after amrket and electic. It used the alarm box with a relay to send a signal to my existing power lock activator. When I pressed the button, it would unlock/lock the door. It used no separate solenoid. My power lock activator moved the lock/unlock rod. My power activator does not have the power to pull the handle lever though.

To try to make the lock solenoid work the door handle, you would lose the ability to lock & unlock the doors. The solenoid would have to be conected to a totally different place on the door latch mecanism. See there are rods and levers for the door handle and separate levers & rods for the lock and unlock button. But if you are shaving, who need to lock the car!

Now if you were considering not having the lock & unlock feature and simple moving the solenoid to connect to the different rod or lever, that might work. Not sure of the mechanics of you lock solenoid though. But in theory it could work.

Charged350

iTrader: (1)

yup, i hooked mine up to my existing wires and it uses the stock solenoid taht was int eh car, nothign special, now for theose damn poppers..!!!!!!!!

Camaroguy18

k you guys were asking about my setup so I took a few pics while down at the shop today. Notice how the solienoid has a hook that was drilled into the bar that operates the door handle from the inside....it connects alot better and pulls perfectly

Camaroguy18

2.