DORMAN door hinge repair kit
10-31-2010, 11:47 AM
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Car: 88 Camaro V6
Transmission: T5
DORMAN door hinge repair kit
Both the Dorman website and the summit website give part number 38402 ( http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-2144-38402.aspx) for my camaro, but the bushing are too small and are not splined. I did a search here and found out that there are mistakes on several sites. Did i have to had part number 38407 ( http://www.dormanproducts.com/p-21876-38407.aspx), which according to the Dorman site is for Chevy trucks?
Thanks.
Thanks.
Last edited by Camatruder; 10-31-2010 at 04:05 PM.
10-31-2010, 05:04 PM
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z Camaro
Engine: TBI,5.0
Transmission: Automatic 700R4
Axle/Gears: Eaton Posi,3.42,LPW Ultimate Cover
Re: DORMAN door hinge repair kit
When it comes to hard to find parts especially door hinge parts I suggest "Top Down Solutions" here's there link. = http://www.top-downsolutions.com/ind...d0e462b58ffb8a I also recommend the spring tool if you don't have one yet . Ask for Lon
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; 10-31-2010 at 05:25 PM. Reason: add info.
11-01-2010, 11:58 AM
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Car: 88 Camaro V6
Transmission: T5
Re: DORMAN door hinge repair kit
Thanks. Looks like he has the right bushings. Can't find that step-by-step though. How do I remove the roller ?
11-05-2010, 02:52 AM
#5
Re: DORMAN door hinge repair kit
The door detent roller is a bit of a pain to repair. I'll describe the methods I've used and you can decide if you're up to the task.
You'll need to remove the A-pillar half of the lower door hinge. There are a lot of steps and how you remove it will depend on whether you are also repairing the upper door hinges at the same time or just doing the lower hinge. There are bolts inside behind the door kick panel as well as one outside. Once you have the hinge half out, I mount it in a large bench vise and grind off the head of the pin above the roller. The roller just slips off now. Pay attention on which side was up and which was doiwn when you removed it. At this point I mount the pin in the bench vise with just enough room to fit the pry bar that comes with the door pin popper tool I sell. You'll pry between the bench vise and the column that the pin is pressed into to remove the pin. It's a real PITA to pry out. I've found it easier if I help relieve the force holding in that pin by using a dremel tool or air operated die grinder with a small metal cutoff blade. Cut a slot in the column parallel to the pin all the way down to the depth of the pin. This relieves most of the tension that is holding in the pin making it much easier to pry it out. However, you'll need to weld up the slot after you remove the pin and grind the excess weld off and paint it again to make it look original. Once you have the old pin out and the column repaired you're ready to press the new pin and roller into the column/inner hinge assy. I recommend using a press to press in the new pin. However I don't have a hydraulic press so I use my huge bench vise to press it in. Be careful though and make sure not to put too much stress on the bench vise as you can break a vise that isn't up to the task. Also don't press the pin in too far or it will impinge on the roller. Also be sure you install the new roller with the same orientation as the original one you removed.
Lon Salgren
You'll need to remove the A-pillar half of the lower door hinge. There are a lot of steps and how you remove it will depend on whether you are also repairing the upper door hinges at the same time or just doing the lower hinge. There are bolts inside behind the door kick panel as well as one outside. Once you have the hinge half out, I mount it in a large bench vise and grind off the head of the pin above the roller. The roller just slips off now. Pay attention on which side was up and which was doiwn when you removed it. At this point I mount the pin in the bench vise with just enough room to fit the pry bar that comes with the door pin popper tool I sell. You'll pry between the bench vise and the column that the pin is pressed into to remove the pin. It's a real PITA to pry out. I've found it easier if I help relieve the force holding in that pin by using a dremel tool or air operated die grinder with a small metal cutoff blade. Cut a slot in the column parallel to the pin all the way down to the depth of the pin. This relieves most of the tension that is holding in the pin making it much easier to pry it out. However, you'll need to weld up the slot after you remove the pin and grind the excess weld off and paint it again to make it look original. Once you have the old pin out and the column repaired you're ready to press the new pin and roller into the column/inner hinge assy. I recommend using a press to press in the new pin. However I don't have a hydraulic press so I use my huge bench vise to press it in. Be careful though and make sure not to put too much stress on the bench vise as you can break a vise that isn't up to the task. Also don't press the pin in too far or it will impinge on the roller. Also be sure you install the new roller with the same orientation as the original one you removed.
Lon Salgren
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