Vacuum routing
#1
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Nanaimo BC Canada
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 2004 GMC 2500HD
Engine: Duramax LLY
Transmission: Allison
Vacuum routing
I just rebuilt an engine to put into my car and I had to disconnect vacuum lines to do the swap over. Im not really that familiar with vacuum systems so I may need a little help. My car is a 85 canadian LG4 non-CCC I have this diagram that I was going to use to help me out https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/atta...ssions-ubl.gif
For the most part I understand it but what came out of the car has quite a few differences.
1. the EGR & EFE TVS...are they the 2 sensors that thread into the T-stat housing?
2. I dont even know what EFE is....
3. The diagram shows a "TVS" "EGR TVS" and "EFE TVS" what is the "TVS"?
4. Would it be ok if the PCV doesnt splice into the canister?
5. The line that goes from the carb to the air cleaner in the diagram actually goes from the carb to the brake booster in my app...???? The diagram doesnt show the brake booster...
If someone could take a picture of that it is supposed to look like I would much appreciate it. Thanks
For the most part I understand it but what came out of the car has quite a few differences.
1. the EGR & EFE TVS...are they the 2 sensors that thread into the T-stat housing?
2. I dont even know what EFE is....
3. The diagram shows a "TVS" "EGR TVS" and "EFE TVS" what is the "TVS"?
4. Would it be ok if the PCV doesnt splice into the canister?
5. The line that goes from the carb to the air cleaner in the diagram actually goes from the carb to the brake booster in my app...???? The diagram doesnt show the brake booster...
If someone could take a picture of that it is supposed to look like I would much appreciate it. Thanks
Last edited by skyhigh4by; 12-01-2009 at 08:18 PM. Reason: extra question
#2
Supreme Member
Re: Vacuum routing
Let me see if I can offer at least some partial help....
TVS: Thernal Vacuum Switch. Yes, on the T-stat housing in most cases. Otherwise, screwed into the water crossover near the T-stat in the intake manifold. Depending on what they are designed for they will either allow vacuum to pass through them or block vacuum from passing through them at a certain coolant temperature.
EFE: Early Fuel Evaporation system. There is a butterfly valve installed at the outlet of the pass, side exhaust manifold, controlled by a vacuum canister. When vacuum is applied to it's vacuum canister the butterfly valve (EFE valve) closes and forces all the exhaust gasses through the exhaust crossover passage in the heads/intake manifold, heating it rapidly for good fuel atomization in the intake when the engine is cold. Obviously, it should only be closed (vacuum being applied) when the engine is cold, and open (no vacuum applied) when the engine is warmed up.
PCV line: Yes, it's OK to remove the T'ed in line from the charcoal canister and plug it if you plan on removing the whole charcoal canister (evaporative emissions) system.
Power brake booster: Always to the port on the bottom/center/rear of the carb. It's a big 3/8" line and on a factory stock vehicle it's a steel hard line except for the last few inches at the in-line check valve just before it gets to the brake booster.
TVS: Thernal Vacuum Switch. Yes, on the T-stat housing in most cases. Otherwise, screwed into the water crossover near the T-stat in the intake manifold. Depending on what they are designed for they will either allow vacuum to pass through them or block vacuum from passing through them at a certain coolant temperature.
EFE: Early Fuel Evaporation system. There is a butterfly valve installed at the outlet of the pass, side exhaust manifold, controlled by a vacuum canister. When vacuum is applied to it's vacuum canister the butterfly valve (EFE valve) closes and forces all the exhaust gasses through the exhaust crossover passage in the heads/intake manifold, heating it rapidly for good fuel atomization in the intake when the engine is cold. Obviously, it should only be closed (vacuum being applied) when the engine is cold, and open (no vacuum applied) when the engine is warmed up.
PCV line: Yes, it's OK to remove the T'ed in line from the charcoal canister and plug it if you plan on removing the whole charcoal canister (evaporative emissions) system.
Power brake booster: Always to the port on the bottom/center/rear of the carb. It's a big 3/8" line and on a factory stock vehicle it's a steel hard line except for the last few inches at the in-line check valve just before it gets to the brake booster.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Nanaimo BC Canada
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 2004 GMC 2500HD
Engine: Duramax LLY
Transmission: Allison
Re: Vacuum routing
you mention deleting the entire vacuum canister...what about everything else what hooked up to it? Just plug them off? Would everything work alright?
#4
Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 167
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1991 Chevrolet Camaro RS Red
Engine: 305 V8 TBI
Transmission: TH-700R4
Re: Vacuum routing
if your looking for an oem diagram of vacuum hose routing autozone.com still supplies the diagrams but you have to now free register.
hope this helps you!
hope this helps you!
#5
Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Apr 2007
Location: Nanaimo BC Canada
Posts: 107
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 2004 GMC 2500HD
Engine: Duramax LLY
Transmission: Allison
Re: Vacuum routing
Thanks I did check out autozone. Unfortunatly the diagram that they show is the same one that I already have. Too many of the Vac lines have been modified/re-routed on my car before I bought it so it helps me for getting it back together right but it doesnt help explaining the way everything in the car is right now. Thanks though.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Pac J
Tech / General Engine
3
05-17-2020 10:44 AM
HoosierinWA
Tech / General Engine
5
10-07-2015 10:15 AM