jmd

iTrader: (4)

If you have

the diverter valve parts from an 87 LG4,
the 87 and the 88 AIR pumps
the 87 (rubber) and 89 (steel) hoses going to the diverter

And the serpentine setup bolted to an LG4,

Is it possible to flip the 88 AIR pump around so the outside is inboard?
Which hose did you use?

I'm not sure if I will re-use the stock diverter valve bracket or just figure something out. The AC to passenger side support bracket is somewhat in the way.

Thanks for any thread links or experience with this.

Damon

Hmmm. So what you're saying is that the 87 diverter valve isn't happy trying to occupy the same space as the 88 serpentine support bracket to the A/C (the one that goes from the back of the A/C compressor to one of the exhaust manifold studs).

I don't think you can reclock the air pump. I could be wrong but I've never heard of it being done.

Would an 88 diverter valve fit better (since that's what came on serp-equipped cars in 88)?

The good news is that you don't need to use the pump-to-valve hardline unless you really want to. It's just regular temperature air going through those hoses so it wouldn't hurt to use flexible stuff. Or you could just cut it midway and extend/flex it to the side a little with a short piece of flexible hose in the middle of it.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The 87 diverter bracket is retained by being sandwiched between the alternator bracket tube and the head as well as an exhaust manifold stud. So I'll need to at least loosen the 88 accessory bracket to use the 87 div. bracket.

Then, it's going to put the diverter where the 88 support brace runs (back of outer compressor bolt to a further-back exhaust manifold stud.

The 88 AIR pump output is outboard. The 87 is inboard. So, wrong place, and it's not a figure 8, it's triangulated. So it doesn't seal. Probably not critical. But that led to the clocking question.

I agree on the use of reg. hose for AIR routing. Guess I better get to yanking the passenger brace and accy. bracket to see what I can work out.