How does hot water get to the heater core and back in the third gen camaro? I've swapped a sepentine belt system from a 1990 Iroc camaro onto my 406 chevy in my 1969 Z28. I have the proper aluminum reverse rotation waterpump from thunder racing installed, but it does not have a water fitting that leads to the heater core (like my old water pump has). I have the water fitting installed on the front of the TPI intake manifold and assume one of the hoses comes back to there. But where does the other hose go? Thanks.

It goes to the radiator.

So on a 3rd gen...2 hoses come from the heater core. The skinny hose goes to the fitting on the intake like you describe. The other one goes directly to the radiator. There should be a nipple on the right side of your radiator for this. Since you have a 69 and probably using an aftermarket radiator you probably won't have this nipple.

IROCZZ3,
Thanks for the guidance.
I wonder if there's an inline radiator hose fitting that I can splice into the upper radiator hose. Either that or get a new radiator. Might need one anyway to keep the 406 cool.

VR,
DZcode

There is such a fitting. If all else fails it's at your local hardware store in the plumbing department... But don't tap the upper hose, use the lower.

You're sure your water pump doesn't have a place for this? Every SBC pump I've looked at has either a fittting for the heater core return hose, or a plug where you can put one. But then I've never taken a close look at an aluminum aftermarket one before...

facelessnumber,
Thanks for the lead on the hardware store and the lower hose. I'll take a look there and see what they have.

I was thinking about taking the radiator to the shop and have someone weld a fitting on the tank, but I bet they'd charge me $50-$75 and I'd be half way to a new radiator.

I looked all over that pump thinking there would at least be a plug location, but I don't see one. Maybe it's a "racing" pump and there's no need for a water fitting. I'll take a look at a new/rebuilt waterpump at the parts store and see what that looks like.
VR,
finespline

No problem, you just need a "T" fitting, like the ones on this page: https://shell7.tdl.com/~jags/Pages/Parts_TPI-TBI_Brass-Tees.html

Does anyone know if the 1990 corvette water pump will fit in the 1990 camaro serpentine set up?

The 1990 corvette water pump has the feedback water fitting, but does anyone know if that's a "short style" water pump? In pictures it looks shorter than the camaro pump.

The pic online at auto zone looks like the 90 corvette pump has shorter "legs" that attach to the block, but a longer peak to the pulley that might make up for the short legs. I might have to go there and look at one.

Vette has the "short style" water pump. You need the long one, reverse rotation.

1995 Chevy pickup has the place for the fitting in the water pump. I ran this on the 305 in my Grand Prix for a while.

Does anyone know the waterpump rotation of a 1986 Z28 Camaro? It had a 305 in it I have put in a 350. Mine currently is running clockwise same as crankshaft. Belt runs over alternator over pump around crankshaft pulley. Should make a difference I wouldn't think.

Slangdon:

Serpentine system has the reverse rotation pump. V-belt system has a standard rotation pump.

There were 1 or 2 years that had a 'half & half" setup, had a wider serpentine belt for alternator/crank/waterpump, then had v-belt for AIR, A/C, and P/S. That "half & half" system also used a standard rotation water pump.

The serpentine system just routes the belt differently, thus it comes over the water pump pulley differently, thus the need for a reverse rotation water pump.

I'm pretty sure we fall in the half and half category. I have a serpentine belt, but it runs as you said alternator, water pump, and crank/. I just confirmaed with auto supply that I have the correct pump witht he correct rotatation. I have done everything except pull intake manifold to ensure water canales are open and clear. I'm going to be doig that this weekend. Along with putting in a new Temerature sensor and possible after market gauges just to make sure it's not the gauge. I'll keep you posted as to what I come up with. thanks for all the advice.

The following is the pump I used in my serp swap: GM p/m 88894005.

JamesC

James,

Thanks but that is without the TPI throttle body and heater hose in the way. That is the way my current water pump is and the heater hose connection from the water pump conflicts with the throttle body setup, so I am assumming that the heater hose on the TPI with serpentine needs to be connectd to the radiator connection? Where does the flow come from? Through the radiator?

Bruce

Hello , I ve swapped a sepentine belt system from a 1990 Iroc camaro onto my 406 chevy in my 1969 Z28. I have the proper aluminum reverse rotation waterpump from thunder racing installed, but it does not have a water fitting that leads to the heater core (like my old water pump has ) .
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Don't know if it helps you or not, but I have mine where one hose runs from heater core to intake outlet, other hose runs to radiator pass side top by cap.

Since i have removed my ac, does it matter if i have a reverse pump or not?

Depends on the brackets, regardless of A/C, if you have the serpentine brackets, you have to use a reverse pump. If you don't have the serpentine brackets, then you must use standard pump.

well i think i have a reverse pump because my pump doesnt have the mounting hole for the alternator bracket

CamaroNewbie,

Thanks, thats exactly the setup I think I have to go with. The next question is how is the heat? Do you find that it is cool or does the heater core get enough flow to provide hot air? Reason I ask is if you think about it, when you have the heater hose connected to the top of the water pump, the flow of water is much stronger since the pump is providing direct pressure while through a connection to the radiator the flow of hot water to the heater core is indirect.

Not sure where you are from but up here in NJ the amount of heat in the the winter months is crucial! :-)

I've had cars with poor heat and I think this might be why.

Thanks for the feedback.

Bruce

This past winter, I didn't have much heat - but I was running my engine cooler than most usually do - I was having a fuel issue that I thought was heat related, but turned out to be a pressure issue.

But now that I have that corrected, I've readjusted my fans to a warmer temp, and I have plenty of heat. Know too that I do not have the heater diverter valve anymore, so I always have warm coolant passing through the heater core. I can feel the heat under the dash even in the summer.

In the pic below, you can kinda see. The hose from my intake (barely see it behind the alt bracket) runs to the left post on the heater core, the hose off the radiator runs to the right post of heater core - not sure if it makes a difference, but the hose sizes are different and matched the posts of the heatercore and rad that way.
http://i287.photobucket.com/albums/l.../cleanbay1.jpg

I have no idea about mounting holes vs. standard or reverse rotation - unless you can verify for sure which pump you have, I'd just buy the one I needed to be sure - w/p's are only like $35 - cheap insurance against overheating. Like I said, you only need a reverse rotation pump if you are running the serp bracket setup.

Do any of the reverse pumps have the outlet lower than the clock-wise pumps? Like half way down or more bottom on the right side?

Just wondering if they moved the outlet to be lower on the pump { routing issues } body than what old school is used to.

A reverse rotation pump is externally the same as a standard rotation pump, only the impeller inside is different.

well the water pump off my older engine had the alternator bracket screw hole on it and the water pump off my newer engine with the serp setup does not

That's because on a serp setup, the alternator is on the driver side.

I swapped from a reverse to a standard, and all my lower hose connected identically the same.

thats what im saying, since on a serp setup the alternator is on the driver side so wouldnt a pump without the screw hole be an indication of a reverse pump?

I'm not trying to be an @ss here, and I have the tightest wallet on this site - but again I must say, for $35 who cares - just get the pump you need for the brackets you are running. It's not worth the risk. You've already spent 3+ days debating, time is money, pumps are cheap, and rotation is critical. If you don't know what pump you have, trash it and get the right one that you need.

there is no debate, were not arguing about it, all was stated was that newer engines with serp setups have the alt on the driver side so that means on reverse flow pumps, that screw hole for an alternator bracket isnt on the reverse pumps. an easy indication.

Maybe... does it have the boss cast in the body for the missing hole, just not machined?

nope, nothing there

Yes, I think that if you do it this way that the heater core will not get quite as much flow due to the decreased water pressure thus less heat because the water in the heater core will cool faster. If you have the heater hose hooked directly to the water pump then you will get more pressure thus more flow and end result will be more heat.

I have to do it this way and will have to live with less heat, but I think the answer might be a warmer thermostat, maybe a 195 degree rather than the 180 degree I normally run.

I won;t have the diverter valve either initially but do plan on putting it in eventually to alleviate the heat in the summer months when the AC is on.

Looked at your pic. Nice car! What is the radiator fan shroud off of? O had to make my own and looks alot like that one.

Bruce