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So upon pushing the ignition cylinder forward yesterday one of the white wires for the vats broke loose. I am getting new fuel pressure to the rail and the security light is coming on. I know there is a bypass and I can change it but since its only one of the wires that broke off I was wondering if I can just reloom that wire with another connector and set it back into place instead of having to bypass it or replace it? Anybody done this? Done anyone have a pic of what the two white wires attach to?? Any input is appreciated thanks guys
Javier
If you're looking for a quick way out of this VATS problem you're having, measure the resistance of the key, find the 2 white wires coming out of the column, and get a matching resistor from electronics store, and solder it in. Cut the white wires that go up to the key and solder the resistor between the wires that go to the VATS. That's it.
How do you correctly measure the resistance on the key? Do you measure from the eky to the little black resistor mounted to the key or across the resistor itself?
I noticed my VATS wires were cut and twisted back together so I think the PO may have monkeyed around with it.
Great I will do that, do I have to set the ohm meter to something in specific as I know there are certain options to read the ohms for example 2k, 200k?
I think that's a white wire with black stripe. Age may have discolored the white wire? Hope this helps. Also I must note that when my VATS kicked in before I had no juice at all. No fuel and no starter!!
Javier
If you're looking for a quick way out of this VATS problem you're having, measure the resistance of the key, find the 2 white wires coming out of the column, and get a matching resistor from electronics store, and solder it in. Cut the white wires that go up to the key and solder the resistor between the wires that go to the VATS. That's it.
I should be able to get away with soldering the two white wires that I am holding in the picture, those are the ones that go to the ignition cylinder, correct?
I should be able to get away with soldering the two white wires that I am holding in the picture, those are the ones that go to the ignition cylinder, correct?
I'm not sure if that is possible. Close looping that system wont change the problem. The VATS box needs the resistor to disengage. I tried connecting my wires and nothing happened. Once I placed the resistor in the circuit I've not had a problem since. 2yrs now.
I'm not sure if that is possible. Close looping that system wont change the problem. The VATS box needs the resistor to disengage. I tried connecting my wires and nothing happened. Once I placed the resistor in the circuit I've not had a problem since. 2yrs now.
This is located under the dash on the drivers side correct? Also those are the two wires that lead back to the vats? The ones that come out of the orange sleeve that lead up to the ignition cylinder correct?
I'm not sure if that is possible. Close looping that system wont change the problem. The VATS box needs the resistor to disengage. I tried connecting my wires and nothing happened. Once I placed the resistor in the circuit I've not had a problem since. 2yrs now.
My apologies I was actually making reference to soldering the resistor in between the two white wires that I am showing in the pic, the ones that lead back to the key
Correct me if I am wrong but the two wires that lead up to the ignition to read the key on both sides of the resistor on the key, so if i were to just take those two wires and put the correct resistor on them, it should work? Instead of having to go under he dash
on my car, the 2 white wires are cut taped off. When I did this I had a buddy who worked at Chevy and he had a wiring diagram(2 yrs ago). Unfortunately I have lost contact with him but my memory says that we tried adding the resistor at the white wires and it was inconsistent. Sometimes it would work and sometimes not. We traced the vats to those 2 wires in the pic above. BAM!! Problem solved!
So found out my key # does the wattage on the resistor matter? As I have found within within the designated ohms but there are several options for wattage for ex 1 watt, 2 watt, etc
When VATS IS ENABLED,you will have NO CLICK,CLACK,STATER ENGAGED, BUZZ, NOTHING AT ALL. Just the light on the dash
Not being a d**k here, but slow down and read this.
1) Find out what your key reads in ohms 950,260 ohms, WHATEVER it is.
2) Buy that ohm resistor
3) Cut those two white wires in the orange sleeve that run up the column. NOW FORGET ABOUT THOSE TWO WHITE WIRES THAT RUN UP THE COLUMN
4) Solder the resistor between the two wires that the WHITE ones were cut from
5) Sleeve,cover, tape, protect that connection however you want.
6) DONE, THAT'S IT, NO MORE.
When VATS IS ENABLED,you will have NO CLICK,CLACK,STATER ENGAGED, BUZZ, NOTHING AT ALL. Just the light on the dash
Not being a d**k here, but slow down and read this.
1) Find out what your key reads in ohms 950,260 ohms, WHATEVER it is.
2) Buy that ohm resistor
3) Cut those two white wires in the orange sleeve that run up the column. NOW FORGET ABOUT THOSE TWO WHITE WIRES THAT RUN UP THE COLUMN
4) Solder the resistor between the two wires that the WHITE ones were cut from
5) Sleeve,cover, tape, protect that connection however you want.
6) DONE, THAT'S IT, NO MORE.
Good luck
Thanks, I tend to get a little overanalytical over things lol I read the ohms on my multimeter and it read 11.72 at 20k reading which should measure out to 11,720 correct?
Thank you!! Im going to order the resistor as I am not certain its carried in my local electronics store and I will let you all know how it turns out, thanks guys!
The same thing happened to my 89 GTA, wire was just barely hanging on. I ended up going the resister route, but I did not feel comfortable having VATS bypassed personally. So I ordered a new key/ignition from the Chev dealer. they tested the key pellet, ordered it, and I got my VATS working again the day everything came in.
Now if my GTA was a TTA, not just an LB9 car, I wouldn't even think of bypassing the VATS. but that's just my 2 cents...
edit: the whole replacement ignition/2keys was $140cad prob a lot cheaper in the states..
The same thing happened to my 89 GTA, wire was just barely hanging on. I ended up going the resister route, but I did not feel comfortable having VATS bypassed personally. So I ordered a new key/ignition from the Chev dealer. they tested the key pellet, ordered it, and I got my VATS working again the day everything came in.
Now if my GTA was a TTA, not just an LB9 car, I wouldn't even think of bypassing the VATS. but that's just my 2 cents...
edit: the whole replacement ignition/2keys was $140cad prob a lot cheaper in the states..
Agree! And as an owner of a 29k mile TTA myself, I would get it fixed right. Ther're in big demand right now. Just say'n!
For you guys that used resistors, what size wattage was the resistor? I contacted my local electronic store, they advised me I would have to know the wattage size for the resistor as well?
Measure your key resistor, then look at the chart. That's what you will need. Then when your ALL done, don't ever leave it alone....I'll be gone in no time!
Javier, I hate that you've been having such a rough time repairing your VATS system. I just hope it's also a real buger for the "bad guys" when they come calling and try to take our cars. Hope you get it figured out soon bud.
Javier, I hate that you've been having such a rough time repairing your VATS system. I just hope it's also a real buger for the "bad guys" when they come calling and try to take our cars. Hope you get it figured out soon bud.
Well ive come to the realization that the first time is always a pain in the ***! lol The second go around i should be much more familiar and fluent with the situation. Nonetheless, thanks man!
If you are worried about theft why not just run a switch in line with the resistor, then hide it somewhere you can't see it. Park in a bad neighbor hood, or for prolonged periods of time, flip the switch off.
There is no saving or repairing a "defective" VATS module . I know, I had one. Its a intermittent nightmare even with the correct resister bypassing the key.
If you are "truly" in need of eliminating VATS then do it with a new EPROM as mentioned (with step by step instructions) in my post above and be "done" with it.
Then install a aftermarket alarm system (optional) with a kill switch added as mentioned above and that IMO is just about as good as it gets, realistically.
If your having "major" problems with VATS than this is good sound advise.
Last edited by Ron U.S.M.C.; 05-09-2015 at 07:31 AM.
So I was able to bypass the vats successfully and the tta was running smooth the car just completely shut off. Popped the hood open and the positive terminal was completely fried and had melted off the battery. My understanding is that this can be due to a short in a ground or the battery terminal? One thing i strongly despise is wiring and electrical issues lol
Sounds like a large current draw, it could be a short to ground but if the positive cable goes to the starter lug from there all circuits are protected. I would think it's a bad possitive or negotive connection on the battery cables. Since the positive side fried I would inspect it's connections first apron removal and replacement.
Turned out the positive cable shifted and was hitting a heat shield of a sort and melted and grounded out. Swapped it out and we are back in business. Need to go over the brakes now.
04-14-2015, 09:25 PM
