flyitlikustolit

I pulled my motor couple of weeks ago to do a rear main seal, new oil pan, and new pump. I checked the bearings for ****s and grins, and saw it was time to do a rebuild. My current setup I'm looking at is an N/A 383 with world products sportsman II heads. I bought the heads thinking I was gonna put them on the 350, but since i have it out, why not make it bigger?

my question is this: I thought the parts below and the parts in the link would be a good match, but i wanted to get some other opinions first.

Sportsman II heads, .600" lift springs, 2.08/1.60 valves, 3/8 screw-in studs, guidplates, angle plugs.

comp pro-mag roller rockers, 1.6 ratio

3970010 2-bolt main block, honed, std bore

manly double-row timing set

mellings high volume pump

moroso 7 or 6 qt pan (which ever fits easier)

XE288HR camshaft and lifters

this rotating assembly:
stroker kit

fel pro gaskets, steel rings instead of moly (longevity reasons)

edelbrock 600 cfm man. choke carb (#1405)

edelbrock performer RPM manifold

B&M 2400 stall

3.42 gears, posi

th350 tranny

I thik that's everything needed to know. I'm also probably going to get an MSD 6al box and billet dizzy in 3 or 4 months. my stock distributor, MSD wires, and MSD coil are fine, and I'm gonna use accel header plugs. besides "does this work well?" my other questions are, how hard is it to get a deeper sump pan in an 82 t/a? any problems with it? and will hooker 2210's work with the angle plug heads? if not, what will?

pasky

http://www.cnc-motorsports.com/produ...956&CtgID=9048

Check out cnc-motorsports before you buy a rotating assembly. You can get them very cheap from them, you also have an option of them balancing it for you and their flat rate shipping is 7.95 no matter what you order. They have great service as I bought from them when I bought my stroker parts.

Ditch the high volume oil pump, it is unneccesary and will rob you of horsepower with no gains. Unless you have some really loose bearing clearances, you don't need it. Get a melling standard sbc oil pump and upgrade the pressure relief spring to a white 80 psi spring or the mr. gasket #26 (can be found at jegs.com).

The high volume oil pump will not give you better oil pressure or distribution, what it will do is rob you of power since it takes more to turn. By upgrading the relief spring on standard pump you allow more oil PSI in the upper rpms. My advice, ditch the HV oil pump.

Everything else looks good.

flyitlikustolit

cool. I already have the HV pickup, so i'll pickup the spring and exchange my pump for a standard pump. I'm buying this kit because the guy is giving me a deal on the rockers and some ARP head bolts if i buy the kit. he'll ship the rockers, bolts, and kit for free, and the kit comes balanced with a balance card. price:$1050.

my only concerns left are the pan... will a deep sump 6 or 7 qt non-kick-out pan work easily? and will hooker 2210's fit angle plug heads?

pasky

Not sure on the headers, but pretty sure the 6 qt and 7 qt are just fine except for the ground clearance you lose.

katman

2210 work best with angle plugs.
You will need a bigger carb.
Get the air gap manifold and if you want to save some money, get the Professional Products version. Very good mine runs in the 12s with the air-gap version and a Holley 750.
Don't waste your money on a MSD 6al. The Digital 6+ costs about $80.00 more and would be worth it at twice the price!
If you're going to run 1.6 rockers you need a stud girdle or better yet upgrade to 7/16 rocker studs.
Don't go bananas on the oil pressure! I spin 7200 rpm 40 psi. However, I run AMSOIL 0-30 full synthetic oil. Don't try this with dino, royal purple, or any of the other major oil co. oil. Any other oil, shoot for 60 psi MAX!!! At idle 20 psi is more than enough.

flyitlikustolit

(I'm on my lunch break and then i work til 10:30, but I'll be back to discuss this more)

If I was buying a new manifold, I'd get an air gap, and in fact, I still might, but i have the RPM from my 350. I also have the block, heads, and carb, gears, posi, tranny, and stall. the rockers, hed bolts and stroker kit I'm ordering next week, and I'm getting the cam last to make sure i pick the right one. can i jet my carb bigger to support this combo? or do i NEED to get the bigger one?

also, why digital 6 instead of a 6AL? I've heard nothing but good stuff about the 6AL setup, several of my friends run them. I've never run either one personally, so i can't say that i have this experience or that.

I run royal purple oil now. 10-w30. am i gonna have a problem? I haven't had any trouble with it, and i get it at $35 a case. I'm mainly trying to make sure 2 things happen with this motor:

A) the bottom end lives a long, and happy life with out issue, (no juice or forced induction)

B) it is a fast street car. emphasis on street. 400-500hp is great, but i want it to be a reliable car (at least, as reliable as you can expect a hot-rod to be)

I'm glad to hear my header choice will work out. takes that off my mind. so now it's just the pan, pick-up, and spring. (got the pump today).

also......... could i run a little more cam? or is an XE288hr plenty of cam for this motor?I know in a 350 it'd be a moderate-wild grind, but I'm upping the CID here, so I'm expecting that to mellow it out a little. if anyone comes up with a better roller cam suggestion, let me know.

flyitlikustolit

anybody have experience with royal purple besides me? and the cam question..... an i run a little more, or is the XE288hr perfect for this combo for a killer street car?

izcain

I run a 6al kit with several of the add on connected to the box ( rev control, timing retard, and NOS window switch) never had any problems. Other then needing a decent timing light so that it will read correctly. Has the hottest spark I have seen. I think you would be happy with it!

flyitlikustolit

cool.... i realy like the idea of a rev limiter so i don't have to worry about bowing the motor, also, 6AL boxes are easy to come by.