383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lenexa, KS
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LG4 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt LSD
383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
Background
1984 Pontiac Trans Am was purchased September of 2007 for street/strip/track purposes. I’m trying to keep street legal stuff on the car, but still preparing it for occasional autocross and drag strip time. The 305 was coated in oil and promptly donated to a friend. The 700R4 is a small input spline unit, recently rebuilt by Certified Transmission, but I will be upgrading that as well as the driveshaft. I am sticking with the 10-bolt and street tires for a while. Emissions are not a concern and the car had most of the computer equipment stripped when I got it (I don’t think it came from GM with an Edelbrock 650).
Engine Parts
I have everything below besides crank, heads, and carb.
Block: 4-bolt 350, bored 0.030” and stroker clearanced
Pistons: Keith Black KB102 18cc dish
Cam: Lunati Voodoo Hydraulic Roller #60121 (small base circle)
219/227 @ 0.050”, 0.515/0.530” lift
112 deg LSA
Lifters: Trick Flow 1.5 ratio aluminum roller rockers
Rods: Scat Pro Comp Forged 5.7” I-Beam
Crank: Eagle Forged 383, internal balance
Heads: Edelbrock E-tec #60989
64cc chamber, 200/78 runners
Will be upgrading to Lunati springs, retainers, locks
Intake: Edelbrock Performer RPM (Vortec)
Carb: Holley 4150 Street HP 750 VS #0-82750 ?
With a zero deck and 4.060” x 0.043” gasket, I should be at 9.60:1 SCR. The Keith Black calculator says I should have a DCR of 8.467:1. I was a little concerned about being in pump gas territory (87 would be preferable). It doesn’t sound like the cam is so big that the motor will be a dog. Just wanted to get the engine gurus’ opinions. I might want a decent stall torque converter too. I am learning more and more of this stuff as I go. Thanks.
1984 Pontiac Trans Am was purchased September of 2007 for street/strip/track purposes. I’m trying to keep street legal stuff on the car, but still preparing it for occasional autocross and drag strip time. The 305 was coated in oil and promptly donated to a friend. The 700R4 is a small input spline unit, recently rebuilt by Certified Transmission, but I will be upgrading that as well as the driveshaft. I am sticking with the 10-bolt and street tires for a while. Emissions are not a concern and the car had most of the computer equipment stripped when I got it (I don’t think it came from GM with an Edelbrock 650).
Engine Parts
I have everything below besides crank, heads, and carb.
Block: 4-bolt 350, bored 0.030” and stroker clearanced
Pistons: Keith Black KB102 18cc dish
Cam: Lunati Voodoo Hydraulic Roller #60121 (small base circle)
219/227 @ 0.050”, 0.515/0.530” lift
112 deg LSA
Lifters: Trick Flow 1.5 ratio aluminum roller rockers
Rods: Scat Pro Comp Forged 5.7” I-Beam
Crank: Eagle Forged 383, internal balance
Heads: Edelbrock E-tec #60989
64cc chamber, 200/78 runners
Will be upgrading to Lunati springs, retainers, locks
Intake: Edelbrock Performer RPM (Vortec)
Carb: Holley 4150 Street HP 750 VS #0-82750 ?
With a zero deck and 4.060” x 0.043” gasket, I should be at 9.60:1 SCR. The Keith Black calculator says I should have a DCR of 8.467:1. I was a little concerned about being in pump gas territory (87 would be preferable). It doesn’t sound like the cam is so big that the motor will be a dog. Just wanted to get the engine gurus’ opinions. I might want a decent stall torque converter too. I am learning more and more of this stuff as I go. Thanks.
#2
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: 383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
Any reason in particular why you chose the Edelbrock heads?
#4
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: 383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
They're ok, but if you're spending that kind of money for aluminum heads though, you could probably get something better than Edelbrocks for not much more.
#5
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lenexa, KS
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LG4 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt LSD
Re: 383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
Oh, I found an article, but not the one I was thinking of. Super Chevy ran this one about the E-tec 200's; they are running a MUCH nastier combo, and it seems to take the flogging (526HP/563TQ on a 427 SBC).
#6
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: 383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
If you're getting that work done (are you sure you need machining?), then you may as well just buy bare heads and put whatever parts you like on them. Only $429/ea for the Edelbrocks then.
#7
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lenexa, KS
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LG4 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt LSD
Re: 383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
I wouldn't call swapping out the locks, retainers, and springs "machine work" though. More like letting someone smarter and more skilled than me use the right tools to do something correct the first time.
Trending Topics
#8
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: 383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
A valve job is only a couple dollars a stem, and valve seals are pennies each.
As far as someone smarter and more skilled doing the work, for something as trivial as installing valvesprings, your machinist is probably going to let the surly minimum wage slave who mops the floor with the waistband of his pants around his knees do the work anyway. Seriously, you'd have to go out of your way to try to screw it up.
As far as someone smarter and more skilled doing the work, for something as trivial as installing valvesprings, your machinist is probably going to let the surly minimum wage slave who mops the floor with the waistband of his pants around his knees do the work anyway. Seriously, you'd have to go out of your way to try to screw it up.
#9
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lenexa, KS
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LG4 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt LSD
Re: 383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
A valve job is only a couple dollars a stem, and valve seals are pennies each.
As far as someone smarter and more skilled doing the work, for something as trivial as installing valvesprings, your machinist is probably going to let the surly minimum wage slave who mops the floor with the waistband of his pants around his knees do the work anyway. Seriously, you'd have to go out of your way to try to screw it up.
As far as someone smarter and more skilled doing the work, for something as trivial as installing valvesprings, your machinist is probably going to let the surly minimum wage slave who mops the floor with the waistband of his pants around his knees do the work anyway. Seriously, you'd have to go out of your way to try to screw it up.
You might have a point, it would at least be very interesting to try out some cylinder head work myself. I know a couple of people that might have the specialty tools as well.
#10
Moderator
Join Date: Jan 2000
Location: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Posts: 20,981
Likes: 0
Received 9 Likes
on
8 Posts
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Re: 383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
The only specialty tool that's really required is a valve spring compressor, and you can rent or borrow those easily. A spring height micrometer is useful too, but you can improvise around it.
Routine head rebuild work really isn't that expensive, because it's simple and repetitive. I usually get used aluminum heads tanked, milled, ground, lapped and assembled for $100 each.
Routine head rebuild work really isn't that expensive, because it's simple and repetitive. I usually get used aluminum heads tanked, milled, ground, lapped and assembled for $100 each.
#11
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lenexa, KS
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LG4 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt LSD
Re: 383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
The only specialty tool that's really required is a valve spring compressor, and you can rent or borrow those easily. A spring height micrometer is useful too, but you can improvise around it.
Routine head rebuild work really isn't that expensive, because it's simple and repetitive. I usually get used aluminum heads tanked, milled, ground, lapped and assembled for $100 each.
Routine head rebuild work really isn't that expensive, because it's simple and repetitive. I usually get used aluminum heads tanked, milled, ground, lapped and assembled for $100 each.
Valves, valve stem seals, guide plates, rocker studs, locks, retainers, and springs would be $400 or so, but if I did most of the work myself, I could still end up ahead of buying the assembled units.
#13
Supreme Member
iTrader: (20)
Re: 383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
that cam doesnt really need a special spring..but i'd say 130-140lbs seat pressure is a good starting point. AFter heat cycles spring lose alittle pressure and those aggressive ramp rates on voodoo cams like more pressure to ensure you dont float valves
8.47 DCR i think is alittle high but it may run on 87. that cam is small for a 383. I'd go one step higher to better match the intake runners of both heads and intake
BUT on the topic of heads, for 1200 plus 170 for upgraded springs brings you to 1370. For 100 bucks more you can get AFR 195's with better springs that will match that cam, and much better flow numbers. Granted its not vortec and needs new intake but that aint bad if you sell of the old one and get a new one for standard heads
I love the AFR heads valvetrain stock options. Good springs good up to .600" ACtually could push more, i measured it upgraded springs are even better but alittle overkill on that cam you have. AFR's have lighweight 8mm valves too, no one else i know is doing that.
Either way the combo looks good for a nice streetable but torquey motor
8.47 DCR i think is alittle high but it may run on 87. that cam is small for a 383. I'd go one step higher to better match the intake runners of both heads and intake
BUT on the topic of heads, for 1200 plus 170 for upgraded springs brings you to 1370. For 100 bucks more you can get AFR 195's with better springs that will match that cam, and much better flow numbers. Granted its not vortec and needs new intake but that aint bad if you sell of the old one and get a new one for standard heads
I love the AFR heads valvetrain stock options. Good springs good up to .600" ACtually could push more, i measured it upgraded springs are even better but alittle overkill on that cam you have. AFR's have lighweight 8mm valves too, no one else i know is doing that.
Either way the combo looks good for a nice streetable but torquey motor
#14
Junior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Lenexa, KS
Posts: 81
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1984 Pontiac Trans Am
Engine: LG4 305 V8
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt LSD
Re: 383 Build-Out Opinions Requested
That parts list included Manley valves too
Thanks, that was the feedback I was looking for. I wanted someone to check over the list and make sure something wasn't way off. I'm ok with a slightly undersized cam, even for a 383. I want to turn this thing into a torque monster.
I considered AFR's, Brodix, and Dart, but went with Edelbrock for the Vortec design. We'll see how it works out. No point in pushing the lift on those E-tec heads though, they stop gaining flow after 0.500 anyways.
that cam doesnt really need a special spring..but i'd say 130-140lbs seat pressure is a good starting point. AFter heat cycles spring lose alittle pressure and those aggressive ramp rates on voodoo cams like more pressure to ensure you dont float valves
8.47 DCR i think is alittle high but it may run on 87. that cam is small for a 383. I'd go one step higher to better match the intake runners of both heads and intake
BUT on the topic of heads, for 1200 plus 170 for upgraded springs brings you to 1370. For 100 bucks more you can get AFR 195's with better springs that will match that cam, and much better flow numbers. Granted its not vortec and needs new intake but that aint bad if you sell of the old one and get a new one for standard heads
I love the AFR heads valvetrain stock options. Good springs good up to .600" ACtually could push more, i measured it upgraded springs are even better but alittle overkill on that cam you have. AFR's have lighweight 8mm valves too, no one else i know is doing that.
Either way the combo looks good for a nice streetable but torquey motor
8.47 DCR i think is alittle high but it may run on 87. that cam is small for a 383. I'd go one step higher to better match the intake runners of both heads and intake
BUT on the topic of heads, for 1200 plus 170 for upgraded springs brings you to 1370. For 100 bucks more you can get AFR 195's with better springs that will match that cam, and much better flow numbers. Granted its not vortec and needs new intake but that aint bad if you sell of the old one and get a new one for standard heads
I love the AFR heads valvetrain stock options. Good springs good up to .600" ACtually could push more, i measured it upgraded springs are even better but alittle overkill on that cam you have. AFR's have lighweight 8mm valves too, no one else i know is doing that.
Either way the combo looks good for a nice streetable but torquey motor
I considered AFR's, Brodix, and Dart, but went with Edelbrock for the Vortec design. We'll see how it works out. No point in pushing the lift on those E-tec heads though, they stop gaining flow after 0.500 anyways.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
LiquidBlue
Wheels and Tires
32
12-10-2019 04:06 PM
LT1Formula
Engine/Drivetrain/Suspension Parts for Sale
7
10-08-2015 08:34 PM