sk8r fer life

Could it be cheaper to build an engine than to get a crate motor?

cuisinartvette

Usually cheaper to do the crate

bradley23150

iTrader: (10)

I ended up spending around $3k-3.5K on building a motor that was basically a stock build, and penny pinching where I could. Looking back, I should have just bought a crate and called it a day.

1983Chimaera

It really depends on what you want your end result to be. If you're happy with the crate motor in its stock form, and don't plan on any changes, then that could be the low cost alternative. If you plan on forced induction, nitrous, radical cam profiles, etc, then you might want to look at building a motor. This way you are buying only the specific parts you need for your build, and can specifically match each part to your needs. Weigh the cost of sourcing an engine (new block or junkyard), machine work (if necessary), buying the assorted parts for your build, vs what it would cost to both purchase a crate motor and then modify it to your needs (meaning you just basically paid for excess parts with the crate motor).
Basically, if you want something you can buy, drop in and go, buy a crate motor. If you want to build a engine, a crate motor isn't necessarily the cheaper route.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

But there are plenty of Perf crate engines where you get a proven result without any "wasted" parts.
Just drop in and go ( fast )

1983Chimaera

As I said, it depends on what you want your end result to be. If you're happy with someone else's off the shelf build, their selection of parts, and have no plans for modification, then buy a crate motor. If you want to do something different or specific, then a crate motor may not be the most economical starting point.

torque_is_good

true, but then again, that's the exception and not the rule. I would venture to guess that more than 90% of the posters who actually do the swap (not those who discuss wanting to do it because that number is huge, but those who actually do it) do not get as radical as where you are heading.

I would say the preponderance of swaps are with junkers and those folks probably wish they could have afforded a crate engine, even if it was only a Goodwrench 260 or 290 HP vs the performance crate engines.

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

This crate engine SBC would do me

http://www.theengineshop.com/product...4---600hp.html

1983Chimaera

And at only $12,000 WHAT a bargain...

You're both missing the point of the OP's question. Can it be cheaper to build an engine than to get a crate motor? The answer is yes, and your $12,000 example quite clearly illustrates that. As for using what you call "junkers", you do realize the GM Goodwrench crate motors are the exact same blocks you can find in a junkyard? Speaking as someone that HAS one - a 4 bolt main GM Goodwrench crate motor block and 64cc crate motor heads, sourced from a junkyard 1991 Suburban, fully machined, fluxed, balanced (all courtesy of Kendrick Performance), new rings, bearings, seals, freeze plugs, and a custom build, all at a cost of less than $1000. With my Megasquirt I ECM and TPI system, I have less than $3000 in my engine. If I ever upgrade, it will be with a junkyard LQ4, upgraded with a new cam, all for under $5000.

torque_is_good

but..............you paid to machine your block and went from there which is what I have also done in the past.

When i say "junkers", it's about the folks who go off and buy a used engine and just drop it in. I would never do that myself. Those are the folks that i say probably wish they could get a goodwrench crate.............or pay for the machine work like we do.

A purist will want to be there every step of the way to be sure that the brand parts they want are being installed, that every bolt is in fact torqued to sepc etc etc.

IMHO that becomes overkill unless the engine is going racing. Heck, we buy brand new cars with the assumption that things are done right. Then we see videos of the assembly line workers smoking pot and getting drunk during their lunch hour

Convoy25

iTrader: (3)

if you go the crate route you can enjoy it, then if you want more power, sell the heads and cam and buy a new combo

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

If that is the case why not buy a higher level crate engine at the start
GMPP start with the 355Hp ZZ4 and work their way up with H/c mods to factory 383's with 425Hp

Convoy25

iTrader: (3)

that all depends on them, some would be happy with the 290 horsepower as a cruiser then down the line may want a little more umph. others like myself would opt for the highest powered build/crate i could do

JamesC

iTrader: (5)

Just a footnote to the conversation. My 85 IROC was originally an anemic LG4, which left me completely dissatisfied (this is an IROC for goodness sake!). I modded it until it was the equivalent, or a bit better, than an L69. I was happier with the car, but it still left a lot to be desired, IMO. Finally, making good on a promise to myself (new motor before retirement), I chose, for the sake of simplicity, a turnkey GM crate, the 350 HO Deluxe (350/330). That rascal at last provided the 'Wow' factor that I'd been missing. Still brings a smile to my face.

JamesC