hooker 2460 hkr installation
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
hooker 2460 hkr installation
Hi everyone
First of all remember that I am Spanish and I am using the google translator, sorry if there is something that is not well understood. I know that there are several posts about this but I would also like to collaborate
I finally found time to be able to make modifications to my exhaust system, I started with the headers, I decided on the 2460 hkr hookers, especially for price, (here they charge us a lot of taxes and fees), I give you an example.
hooker 2460hkr in u.s.a 217 $
hooker 2460hkr in spain 437 $
There is a lot of price difference from how much they are worth there to how they are worth here.
well let's get started.
The truth is that it was easier than I expected, the most difficult thing was to remove the original headers, especially those on the passenger side, but once it was out it was easy enough.
Starting from the driver's side remove all the spark plug wires and the alternator bracket that is attached to one of the bolts.
I started to remove screws, the most difficult were the ones that hold the thermal protectors because as they have a lock nut, they first release from the engine and do not let you release the lock nut, I cut some pieces of the protectors to be able to use two 14mm wrenches and be able to remove them (some screws that are easier to remove under the car), once outside I had to bend the brake lines a little so that they did not touch the headers.
Before inserting the new header, one thing must be taken into account, the oxygen sensor is now back and the connector does not arrive, there is a hose with the cables of the temperature sensor and the other is that of the o2sensor, the latter is to remove it from the hose and pass it back so that it can be connected.
When we start to put screws the one that is closest to the alternator, we must use the original screw to be able to use the spacer that comes with the screw kit and to be able to put the alternator support
The other screws are easier, then we put the oxygen sensor and hold the cable well so that it does not burn and finished
Now the passenger side, this is the complicated one but not difficult if you disassemble a few things, I remove several things, the entire smog pump system including the pump (system that as usual is not going to be used anymore), power cables spark plug, coolant hoses and oil stick.
The original header comes out from the top but you have to remove the air tubes. The new header is best installed under the car but you have to remove the spark plugs and the coolant sensor
Before installing the new header you have to remove the metal tube of the smog system that passes from one side of the engine to the other, you have to loosen the screw that holds the ground cables, (I pulled it and it came out from under the car)
when we proceed to screw it one more time we will have to join an original screw to be able to use the a / c compressor bracket
you have to make a spacer and cut a little bit to the a / c compressor support to be able to put it
once we have it screwed on, we realize that the metal tube of the refrigerant stays very close to one of the tubes, I bend it a little to separate it, possibly also isolate it
The other problem we find is the oil stick, we have to bend it a little and make a support that is attached to one of the screws
Remember that when bending the oil stick the oil level will deceive a bit, it is also necessary to make sure that the cables of the starter motor and the coolant sensor are separated and well secured so that they do not burn.
I still do not have photos with the spark plug wires because as you already know you have to put spark plug cables with boots at 90 degrees and they have to bring me together with the supports to modify the route of the wires, when I have them I will put them here.
Well, everything has been up to here, I don't think I forgot anything.
First of all remember that I am Spanish and I am using the google translator, sorry if there is something that is not well understood. I know that there are several posts about this but I would also like to collaborate
I finally found time to be able to make modifications to my exhaust system, I started with the headers, I decided on the 2460 hkr hookers, especially for price, (here they charge us a lot of taxes and fees), I give you an example.
hooker 2460hkr in u.s.a 217 $
hooker 2460hkr in spain 437 $
There is a lot of price difference from how much they are worth there to how they are worth here.
well let's get started.
The truth is that it was easier than I expected, the most difficult thing was to remove the original headers, especially those on the passenger side, but once it was out it was easy enough.
Starting from the driver's side remove all the spark plug wires and the alternator bracket that is attached to one of the bolts.
I started to remove screws, the most difficult were the ones that hold the thermal protectors because as they have a lock nut, they first release from the engine and do not let you release the lock nut, I cut some pieces of the protectors to be able to use two 14mm wrenches and be able to remove them (some screws that are easier to remove under the car), once outside I had to bend the brake lines a little so that they did not touch the headers.
Before inserting the new header, one thing must be taken into account, the oxygen sensor is now back and the connector does not arrive, there is a hose with the cables of the temperature sensor and the other is that of the o2sensor, the latter is to remove it from the hose and pass it back so that it can be connected.
When we start to put screws the one that is closest to the alternator, we must use the original screw to be able to use the spacer that comes with the screw kit and to be able to put the alternator support
The other screws are easier, then we put the oxygen sensor and hold the cable well so that it does not burn and finished
Now the passenger side, this is the complicated one but not difficult if you disassemble a few things, I remove several things, the entire smog pump system including the pump (system that as usual is not going to be used anymore), power cables spark plug, coolant hoses and oil stick.
The original header comes out from the top but you have to remove the air tubes. The new header is best installed under the car but you have to remove the spark plugs and the coolant sensor
Before installing the new header you have to remove the metal tube of the smog system that passes from one side of the engine to the other, you have to loosen the screw that holds the ground cables, (I pulled it and it came out from under the car)
when we proceed to screw it one more time we will have to join an original screw to be able to use the a / c compressor bracket
you have to make a spacer and cut a little bit to the a / c compressor support to be able to put it
once we have it screwed on, we realize that the metal tube of the refrigerant stays very close to one of the tubes, I bend it a little to separate it, possibly also isolate it
The other problem we find is the oil stick, we have to bend it a little and make a support that is attached to one of the screws
Remember that when bending the oil stick the oil level will deceive a bit, it is also necessary to make sure that the cables of the starter motor and the coolant sensor are separated and well secured so that they do not burn.
I still do not have photos with the spark plug wires because as you already know you have to put spark plug cables with boots at 90 degrees and they have to bring me together with the supports to modify the route of the wires, when I have them I will put them here.
Well, everything has been up to here, I don't think I forgot anything.
The following users liked this post:
DynoDave43 (10-13-2020)
#4
Supreme Member
Re: hooker 2460 hkr installation
Nice job, what are you using for a Y pipe?
#5
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Car: 1989 Chevy Camaro IROCZ
Engine: EBL Managed 350 TPI - 355 pending
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.77
Re: hooker 2460 hkr installation
I know this is an old thread but thank you for posting this. Helped me decide on headers for my 89 IROC (5.7 TPI) without having to resort to $500+ systems. My car is a street car with 205K miles needing a new exhaust system anyway.
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