FabricationCustom fabrication ideas and concepts ranging from body kits, interior work, driveline tech, and much more.
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Cool, thanks for posting more pics. I'm not sure how Nick is planning on doing the exhaust on his car, but the way you did yours is pretty cool. I like how it exits from the side of the body like that.
Exhaust will probably be one of the last things that gets done on Nicks car. That means it will probably be about this time next year based on how little is being done the past few weeks.
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I have some old Howe catalogs but they are buried away deep somewhere, out of reach for now. So I'll be attempting two tricky things here (for me), making a drawing, and posting it on here as a picture. Wish me luck!
If this works, you'll see how I did the front bumper under the nosepiece, and my front frame section. I tried to show the front frame clip, the hub, the spindle, the upper and lower A-Frame/control arms, the sway bar, and the sway bar jack bolt and through- frame mounting sleeve. I should have made the jackbolt show as just alitle bit longer.
This would be a view looking from the left side of the left side of the car. The sway bar would just sit up under a pad welded on the bottom of the lower A- Frame, maybe touching, but not attached. If you would be looking head- on to the front of the car, the sway bar would be tilted a little bit to go under the lower left A-frame.
I am assuming that the fuel cell is in the back, but I don't see how you get the deck lid off to get to it. I'm probably just missing something, as usual.
We havent run the car a full season in about two years.We pretty much need to put the rear bumper back on/make a new one and it will be good to go. Just put in a new lexan windshield. Dad went threw the engine, changed cam and did a few other tricks. We quit running the car because it lost its competitveness and we couldnt figure out the problem. Well, I think we have it now. The car would not come up to the RPM range we needed. we tried gears. stall convertors,cams. everything we could think of. Well.......finaly pulled the tranny and sent it out. come to find out it had some issues including a busted planitary. So I am hoping that will cure our problems and hope to be back at the trak in a few weeks.
Nice Dirt Car! I like the roll bar frame in the rear, with no floor....
I was working on my 3-link today and completed my bracket. I need to weld it to the rear-end tomorrow when I have lots of time to keep it from getting too hot. Thie will allow my 3rd link to be parallel to the bottom links at ride height in my middle hole of the roll bar bracket. Then I have two adjustments up or down that I can play with.
BPWilliams, how did you figure out how long to make your top link? I'm playing around with my street playtoy, and I'm considering putting in a 9" Ford rearend and running a third link and eliminating the torque arm. That would get away from welding the top bracket on a cast iron housing. But I don't know how long to make it or at what angle to run it.
I'm thinking the top link should be about 2/3'ds of the length of the lower control arms and run downhill at aslight angle, but that's just guessing. Somewhere somebody has engineering to figure this out for the proper instant center and such.
My car isn't a real nice piece, so I don't mind putting in a roll bar and a little bit of cage, or cutting the back seat area out and moving the seats back just a little to be a poor man's Corvette/2-seater. And the stock gas tank and it's stock mounting kind of gets in the way of the top of the rearend too.
Here's some pictures of how I cut this area out of a car I'm going to scrap out. For all of you folks that wonder how to cut out the "floorpan" to get at your fuel pump for removal and replacement, you can see where the sending unit is located, even though this car is not fuel injected and had a regular fuel pump on the side of the engine block.
I just did this for studying the location of the floorpan in relationship to the rearend housing and for possible mock- up someday.
Basic it was actually pretty easy, I just made the mounts on my roll cage as low as I could with the 5 holes adjustable on a arch (see my previous pictures) the arch was based on the center hole location relative to the rear-end mounting hole, just used a card-board mock up and a Sharpie on a string. Then I made a 1" square tube arm with a hole in it and extended it to the rear-end. Made that level and measured to the pumpkin 5.5" center to center hole at ride height. Because the holes on the roll cage for the third link are on an arch, I do not need to readjust my pinion angle if I change me instant center. I plan on having the rear-end in pretty soon and I will take pictures of the set-up.
For road racing the third link should be long, dirt tracks it should be short. I plan on running an AFCO torque link for the third link, lots of good racing stuff here www.afabcorp.com I am also going to use 5/8" radius rods and rod ends for my suspension in the rear and the steering arms.
Last edited by BPWilliams; 06-14-2009 at 07:37 PM.
Understood, but your kind knitt-picking there. My point was to get the bigger stock manifolds that fit the engine bay without modification.............. Most TPI engines had the larger manifolds even some of the LB9's and since you can assume that if you see an IROC its most likely a TPI car (But I know not all were). Point being there is no need to look on a berlinette for the big manifolds. Ergo "IROC" manifolds. Its pretty obvious with a glance which cars have these manifolds by the size of the Y-pipe. IROC is just a direction to head in. The guy seems pretty sharp I'm sure he can figure out what I ment.
Well, the fact is that you're looking for manifolds from an L98, L69, LU5, and not an LG4 or L03 (I've heard of finding either on an LB9).
That being said, _If it was me_ I'd be looking for some '93-95 F or B body LT1 manifolds. There outlets are in the same locations as the 3rd gen manifolds so they will work fine in a 3rd gen chassis, but they use 3 bolt flanges rather than the third gen 2 bolt flanges, but the big difference is that they're MUCH nicer shaped, almost like a set of cast headers, with smooth bends... the '96-97 ones are the same on the passenger side but have a huge flange on the driver's side which was used to bolt to a catalytic converter, but since it's a flat cast piece, it's easy enough to cut it down and drill it for the more standard smaller 3bolt pattern like the earlier ones had.
The only real hassle you might run into is that the LT1's had a double hole on one end of the exhaust flange and they used the outside hole, but since a lot of SBC heads have that hole (I know that the mid '80s 305 heads that I'm messing with now have them), and if they don't I'm sure the inside hole could be drilled if you had to.
On the manifold issue. Most cars dont even seem to have the RPO sheet still in them anywhere so its kinda hard to know which one your looking for if you dont know what your looking for. So again its eaziest to look for a TPI car. (Tho I know they all didnt have the large malifolds) To end it once and for all, if you want a set, I have 3 or more sets and at least 2 y-pipes that way you wont have to search. Matter of fact, if you want LT1 manifolds I have 2 sets of 93's with 1 y-pipe. If you decide to go with any of them let me know and I will hook you up. Search over! I also have one duel cat y-pipe with no cats. I'll make you a hell of a deal on them, just PM me
Another trick you may want to try it to get two right front lower control arms, cut them both. Cut one off at the mount and the other off about an inch to an inch and a half from the mount. Reweld the longer piece to to arm you cut off at the mount, thus adding and inch or so to the lower control arm giving you more camber and adjustability!
Hey, 83 Crossfire, you still have a crossfire car? I have an 83 DT500 pace car, tho it is in very rough shape. I am currently gathering parts to start a resto. Recaro seats gonna be hard to find in good shape and a decent price range
Last edited by 1brd2brd3brd4; 06-15-2009 at 09:35 PM.
BP, how high is the bolt hole in the bracket (on the rearend) for the top link bar from the centerline of the axles? And how did you decide how high up from the top of the housing to make it?
Man, you really have a bohemian bracket on your rearend there. But I see why you made it like that. It should work good.
Basic I just used a rod from my rollcage mount to the top of my rear-end at ride height and leveled it, then measured to the top of the rear-end. It was 5.5" so I made the bracket at 5.5". It is deceiving going from inside the car to the outside on measuring. I actually thought I was not going to have enough room for the bracket, but there is plenty.
I also moved the gas tank to the rear of the car so there is lots of room under there. I want this rear-end to be free under the car to take the turns and stick the tires.
I wanted to add that all of the weight distribution from the third link is transfered directly down my center bar to my front shock towers. This is why the third link roll bar mount is suspended in the air and triangleated to the center bar, this will help keep the car netrual and the weight transfer directly tied from the rear to the front, I will let you know how that theory works once it gets on the track.Remember I am road racing on asphalt so set-ups could be different.
Last edited by BPWilliams; 06-17-2009 at 01:12 AM.
Big Mods,
I was thinking of putting 4-corner weight jackers in while I was welding in the cage but never got to it and reserved that project for a later date. Do you have any pictures on what you did or can you describe how you put the front and rear in?
Big Mods,
I was thinking of putting 4-corner weight jackers in while I was welding in the cage but never got to it and reserved that project for a later date. Do you have any pictures on what you did or can you describe how you put the front and rear in?
We have completed a lot of work over this last weekend. I took a bunch of pictures, but as usual, I am waiting for Nick to upload them and send them to me.
I will provide a full update as soon as he gets me some pics. We did knock out quite a few of the items on our list (updated list below), but there is still a bunch of stuff that needs completed.
Until then- Here is a picture of my son sitting in the Vintage Sprintcar that Nick's dad Allen drives:
Here is a shot that shows the strut brace, we still need to drill the tower plates, but this is what it will look like:
Here are the relays that control the cooling fan. A 30amp relay for low speed and an overkill 100amp relay for the high speed. Nick bought the small relay and I had the other one laying around. The wiring will be cleaned up with split loom so it looks nice. It was basically roughed in at the time of the photo.
Build rear tranny mount DONE Build torque arm mount DONE Install radiator hoses & overflow tank DONE Swap out intake manifold DONE Replace clutch master cylinder DONE Have a driveline made DONE Install driveline hoops DONE Install fuel line DONE Install HEI, wires and plugs DONE Install carburetor DONE Install exhaust manifolds, pipes and muffler DONE Install starter DONE Mount shifter DONE Mount temp gauge DONE Mount oil pressure gauge DONE Mount ignition switch DONE Mount fan switch & relays DONE Mount starter switch DONE Wire Ignition, starter, fan, & gauges DONE Build & install strut tower crossover bar DONE Install new front struts DONE Install new rear shocks DONE Install new right outer tie rod end DONE Plumb P/S DONE Install padding on cage tubes within reach of driver DONE Install hood with pins DONE Finish & paint deck lid DONE Build cover plate for tranny hole on floor pan DONE Install lexan windshield DONE Cover headlight openings DONE Install harness DONE Build switch panel DONE Install scanner DONE Install fire extinguisher DONE Design, order & install sponsor decals DONE Put the car number on the doors DONE Tune engine DONE Test car at track and set up suspension DONE
Last edited by zlathim; 07-11-2009 at 12:01 PM.
Reason: We finished it!
I finally got mine back on the ground, feels good to see it roll around again.
Zlat nice work, my motor is next on the radar for me, the next few months are so hot here in AZ we pretty much stay inside or get the boat out and play in the water...
I finally got mine back on the ground, feels good to see it roll around again.
Zlat nice work, my motor is next on the radar for me, the next few months are so hot here in AZ we pretty much stay inside or get the boat out and play in the water...
So, we have been pretty busy lately. Our list of stuff to do is getting shorter!
Nick bought some new KYB struts (cheap off e-bay because we are poor) and new rear shocks. Mucho better than the tired old crap that was on the car when we got it. He also bought some springs from Speedway. He got a pair of 250# springs for the rear, a 1250# spring for the right front, and a 1000# spring for the left front. Nick and his dad got all that stuff installed before I showed up.
We got the fuel system plumbed, and also installed a ground strap for the fuel cell and a lanyard for the fill cap, both of which are required by the rules.
We got the manifold swapped out because the one we had didn't fit the spacer plate. Then we installed the distributor and carburetor.
Nick didn't send me the rest of the pictures, so I'll have to post them up later. We did get the modified tranny crossmember and torque arm mount installed. We were able to get the shifter mounted and adjusted to Nick's satisfaction. Then we replaced the leaking clutch master cylinder and bled the system. After that we installed the starter, ignition switch, starter switch, and the fan switch with all of the related wiring. Nick made a little switch panel that mounts next to the seat on the tranny hump. Nick installed the padding on the roll cage and the 5 point harness.
Well, that's about it for now. I will post more pictures as soon as I get them.
WOW!!!!! Not much circle track guy, but, I really like the bottom dollar fab work. Good luck with the build.
Thanks! It has been a fun project. We are really looking forward to getting this thing out on the track.
To be honest with you, I am not much of a circle track guy either, I don't watch Nascar at all and have no interest in it. That being said, I am a gearhead, and since I have lived most of my life within a mile or two of our local track, I have spent some time there over the years helping out friends who race and whatnot. This is the first time I have been involved in a build like this and I must say it has been tons of fun. Nick is the driver, but I'm gonna put in some laps on practic night when we get it done. I'm looking forward to that.
Are you required to use stock suspension, or just stock-type suspension, or stock geometry, or...?
Here is what the rules say:
SUSPENSION
9.9.1 Suspension must be stock with the following exceptions.
9.9.2 Front and rear shocks must be stock steel or stock type steel replacement. Race shocks approved. All Shocks must mount in stock location, on stock mounts.
9.9.3 Front strut cars will use stock type replacement struts and will mount in stock location. Towers must remain in stock location and may be notched for camber/caster adjustment.
9.9.4 Front coil springs may be stock type replacement. Minimum height is 12” freestanding and out of car. No adjustable or non adjustable spacers on top of spring allowed. No weight jacking bolts of any kind allowed. Trimming or heating to a minimum height of 12” freestanding and out of car, approved.
9.9.5 Torsion bars will be stock for make or stock type replacement only.
9.9.6 Front Strut cars, Struts may be stock type replacement. Minimum spring height is 11.25” freestanding and out of car. No adjustable or non adjustable spacers on top of spring allowed. No weight jacking bolts of any kind allowed. Trimming or heating of a spring to a minimum height of 11.25” freestanding and out of car, approved.
9.9.7 Leaf spring cars will remain leaf spring cars. Stacks may be altered. Any spacers or lowering blocks used in the leaf stack must be securely mounted. Front mounts will be stock. Rear shackles will be stock or fabricated to match stock measurements center to center with no more than ½” in tolerance. No threaded or adjustable jacking devices approved.
9.9.8 No chains or stoppers may be used to stop suspension movement.
9.9.9 Use of twisties, or spring rubbers are approved in front or rear coil springs.
9.9.10 Rear coils springs of any type approved. Shims or spacers may be used to raise or lower either corner of the car. No threaded or adjustable jacking devices approved. Spring pockets may be altered or replaced, but will remain in stock location.
9.9.11 Sway bars will remain stock for make and must be mounted in stock location. Connection method to lower control arms is optional. Sway bars may be adjustable. Poly bushings approved.
9.9.12 No heating, cutting, welding, grinding, or bending of any suspension component allowed, unless otherwise noted within these rules.
9.9.13 A-arms, control arms, and suspension components must be stock for make and model. Mounting locations will be stock for make and unaltered.
We may be bending the rules a tad with our strut towers, but they are in the stock location...almost. After spending some time in the pits and seeing what some of the other guys in our class have gotten away with, we are not expecting to have any trouble. That, and the fact that Nick is in pretty good with the guy who owns the track.
To be honest with you, I am not much of a circle track guy either, I don't watch Nascar at all and have no interest in it.
Nascar has nothing to do with it. Not a real big fan of them either. They got way too far away from real racing and what the fans see in it years ago. Too much money in it and too much politics!!! They talk so much about certain people even if they suck just to try and sell a name. The cars look like crap. part of the apeale of racing is people can go to the track watch a race. See a guy win and turn to their buddy and say " Thats the same kinda car i drive, Bubba!" Cant do that with Nascar anymore. Local short tracks are where its at. Dirt, asphalt any bull ring U.S.A! Nothing more boring than a bunch of cars strung out on a track too far away from each other to race! To me circle track is a lot more fun because its not over in 10 seconds, then go back to your pits, sit and wait. Now I know its also exciting to run side by side down the strip but if its a one sided run, its not much fun and no chance to make up ground during the run I.E changing your line on the track or changing the way you drive to try and make up ground( I also know that dosent aways work in round track). Nothing like tire smoke rolling off your doors as you edge some one out at the finish line (So what if it was my dad, he's just another driver on the track til we get back in the pits! LOL)
P.S. Bought a PAIR of 250 springs? Why a pair? you really should stagger your spring rates in the rear for better handling I.E. 250 right rear and 200 left rear. How ever if you've been talking to anyone at your track they many be sending you in the direction they run, I dunno.
Last edited by 1brd2brd3brd4; 06-24-2009 at 05:51 PM.
P.S. Bought a PAIR of 250 springs? Why a pair? you really should stagger your spring rates in the rear for better handling I.E. 250 right rear and 200 left rear. How ever if you've been talking to anyone at your track they many be sending you in the direction they run, I dunno.
Nick is the one who ordered the springs. He said that is what the guy he talked to at speedway said would work good for a starting point.
The front springs have 250# difference in them and it makes the whole left side of the car lower. The left rear sits quite a bit lower than the right rear because of all the extra spring pressure in the right front. We understand that we may need to tweek the set-up some, but for now we are pleased with the posture of the car.
Hey, 83 Crossfire, you still have a crossfire car? I have an 83 DT500 pace car, tho it is in very rough shape. I am currently gathering parts to start a resto. Recaro seats gonna be hard to find in good shape and a decent price range
I wish... I loved that car. A neighbor with some problems ran into it twice with his van while it was parked on the street in front of the house, once hard enough to smash the rear hatch, and then I moved it to my brother's house to get some time to work on it and a 8' in diameter oak tree got blown over on top of it in a hurricane. I parted it out, still have a few things sitting around but no good interior parts.
Zlat talk to me about the springs... I am getting ready to get springs for the car but want to lower it to within 6-7" ground clearance at the rocker panels. What height and size springs did you buy? did you need to modify the rear pearch to accept a non-tapered spring? Let me know...
Zlat talk to me about the springs... I am getting ready to get springs for the car but want to lower it to within 6-7" ground clearance at the rocker panels. What height and size springs did you buy? did you need to modify the rear pearch to accept a non-tapered spring? Let me know...
I wish I could help you, but I really don't know anything other than what I already posted. I do know that we didn't have to modify the rear pearch to get these to fit. They slipped right in no problem.
Nick ordered them from Speedway. As far as I know, he got ahold of someone who recommended the package we got.
I'll try to get Nick to log on and tell you what he knows about them. I'm sorry that I can't be more help.
Remember, you dont want to go too low with your car. Low does not always make for good handling,I.E. if you lower the car too much you loose your shock travel which is very important. and you can also bottom out your suspention hurting your handling. Also if you are running stock fender wells you can get a rubbing condition(Ask me how I know? LOL). It is best to make the chasis as stiff as possible and make the car so that the suspention does most of the work. Now I dont know what your rules are so I dont know if you can modify your shock mounts or run shorter shocks, just giving you something to keep in mind. Hope I helped and dont sound like a know-it-all! LOL
Now I dont know what your rules are so I dont know if you can modify your shock mounts or run shorter shocks, just giving you something to keep in mind. Hope I helped and dont sound like a know-it-all! LOL
Here are the rules about suspension:
SUSPENSION
9.9.1 Suspension must be stock with the following exceptions.
9.9.2 Front and rear shocks must be stock steel or stock type steel replacement. Race shocks approved. All Shocks must mount in stock location, on stock mounts.
9.9.3 Front strut cars will use stock type replacement struts and will mount in stock location. Towers must remain in stock location and may be notched for camber/caster adjustment.
9.9.4 Front coil springs may be stock type replacement. Minimum height is 12” freestanding and out of car. No adjustable or non adjustable spacers on top of spring allowed. No weight jacking bolts of any kind allowed. Trimming or heating to a minimum height of 12” freestanding and out of car, approved.
9.9.5 Torsion bars will be stock for make or stock type replacement only.
9.9.6 Front Strut cars, Struts may be stock type replacement. Minimum spring height is 11.25” freestanding and out of car. No adjustable or non adjustable spacers on top of spring allowed. No weight jacking bolts of any kind allowed. Trimming or heating of a spring to a minimum height of 11.25” freestanding and out of car, approved.
9.9.7 Leaf spring cars will remain leaf spring cars. Stacks may be altered. Any spacers or lowering blocks used in the leaf stack must be securely mounted. Front mounts will be stock. Rear shackles will be stock or fabricated to match stock measurements center to center with no more than ½” in tolerance. No threaded or adjustable jacking devices approved.
9.9.8 No chains or stoppers may be used to stop suspension movement.
9.9.9 Use of twisties, or spring rubbers are approved in front or rear coil springs.
9.9.10 Rear coils springs of any type approved. Shims or spacers may be used to raise or lower either corner of the car. No threaded or adjustable jacking devices approved. Spring pockets may be altered or replaced, but will remain in stock location.
9.9.11 Sway bars will remain stock for make and must be mounted in stock location. Connection method to lower control arms is optional. Sway bars may be adjustable. Poly bushings approved.
9.9.12 No heating, cutting, welding, grinding, or bending of any suspension component allowed, unless otherwise noted within these rules.
9.9.13 A-arms, control arms, and suspension components must be stock for make and model. Mounting locations will be stock for make and unaltered.
Well after much thought I think I am going to go with welded-in spring jack plates on all 4's. I really did not want to go this route because of all the work involved, but now is the time if I am going to do this. I looked at Ground Control spring adjusters but they use the more expensive 5.5" spring in the rear not the 5", and you need to jack up the car for adjustments, just like coil-overs.
The weld-in spring rate adjusters will give me a lot more control over my spring rates and my spring choice. One of the their benifits is that I can also fab in rods up to the rear windshield lexan and also on the inner front roll bar for quick and easy adjustment while the car is on the ground. A lot more work but in the long run it will be better.
So I plan on running 5.5" diameter 1000 lbs 10" springs in the front and 5" diameter 300 lbs springs 11" tall on the rear, that should be a good baseline to start with.
On the Cobra I am running the Big sway bar, soft spring set-up and will probably switch to this, as I have more experiance with this set-up. I have already made provisions in the front of the Camaro to run a Speedway engineering sway bar set-up just for this reason.
Here are some pictures of the spring adjusters and perch for the rear to get away from the pig tail springs... Also a shot of the 3-link, I just have a piece of 1" tubing in there until my parts come in ( I needed the center to center distance before I could order them).
Last edited by BPWilliams; 06-28-2009 at 11:28 PM.
Reason: spell checker!
I am road racing in NASA's American Iron not circle track. I found this thread interesting because Zlat and I were building at the same time and had stories to share. Set-up a little different but the passion about the same. I race Phoenix International Raceway and 4 other local tracks that are are well prepaired road courses, biggest is about 2 miles.
Very interesting thread!!! BPwilliams can you give me a link to the local chapter. I used to Race scca when it was in the west valley (Over at 19th ave and pinnacle peak. Yeah, I know... It's been a while... LOL) Want to get back into it... Thanks!!!
We spent most of the weekend working and made some good progress. We got everything done on the engine except for the exhaust. We did fire it up for a few seconds with open manifolds, and man is it loud. We didn't run it very much, just enough to let us know it is alive and well after being freshened up.
Nick finished the tranny mount. Since our metric bellhousing is clocked 17*, we had to build the mount plate on the crossmember to fit. In this picture, the torque arm is not connected, but the torque arm mount is kinda visible to the left of the trans output shaft:
We got the cockpit completely done with gauges, switches, fire extinguisher, harness and etc. Except for a couple more piece of roll bar padding, we are done in there:
We also got the numbers on the doors and roof:
We had a hood, but it was beat-up pretty bad, and had a big ugly hole cut in it, so Nick picked up this hood from the local pick and pull yard. It matches color well enough to suit us, so we will likely run it as-is. We might have to cut a hole in it for the air cleaner, but it will be a nice hole and not an ugly uneven hole like our old hood had:
You can see from the above pic that we got our headlight openings covered up with aluminum. First we roughed out the shape and used some cleco fasteners to hold it while we marked it for cutting:
Then we trimmed it a little and put it back on for final fitting:
After it was the right shape, we used it as a templet for the other side and then drilled and riveted them both on:
We were able to find a throttle cable bracket that worked for our application:
And here is a shot of our overflow tank securely in place:
Nick had made a decent looking rear deck lid, but he left it out in the rain and it rusted pretty bad. We tried to knock the rust off with his DA, but his compressor is too small to run the sander very well:
We said forget it and mounted it with hood pins looking all crumby. Nick can use his uncle's shop that has a large compressor later this week to get it cleaned off, then paint it. It will probably get a coat of satin black:
Then Nick found a spoiler at the pick and pull and decided to try to incorporate it. He is not sure if he likes it enough to run it. It would serve no purpose other than looks, so we may just scrap it and fabricate a functional spoiler:
Nick had made a trick little front air dam / grill support piece that we finally got around to mounting securely. You can see from the pictures that I am telling the story a little out of order here, but here it is:
Here are a couple of pictures that show the stance of the car with the new springs. Keep in mind that we have not moved the car since letting it down off the stands, so the springs will likely settle in a bit after driving it around:
So now we are down to getting a driveline made and getting some exhaust on this thing. Then we can dial in the engine and take it out to the track for some run in laps. We did get a driveline (it needs shortened), but the slip yoke is so rusted, I am not sure we can save it. We will just have to see how that goes. The car will probably go to the exhaust shop this week for some pipe and cherry bombs, so that will be done.
The crumby thing is that I am leaving town for a couple of weeks on Thursday. I will likely miss the christening and all that good stuff while I am gone! That kinda sucks, since I have been involved with this project from the very beginning, and I will be 1500 miles away when it makes it's big debut (for practic laps) at the track. Oh well, that is life I guess. The first race that Nick will be in will be on the day after I get back, so I won't miss that.
Remember I am road racing on asphalt so set-ups could be different. 
u me and the tree!!!
