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Hi guys...I am running a Holden Torana hillclimb/sprint car with a 355ci in it. (medium sized 4 door, 2260 lbs)I am also running the same diff out of a Nissan Skyline R31 as it was the correct width for the car and has rear discs.
FYI we have a local manufacturer that makes a Detroit Locker style diff for these that I am running in the race car. With the exchange rate its pretty cheap too I would suspect. $599 locally.
Rory http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/gfx/specials_2.pdf
I got it out. But, do I really have to get access to a Large bench vice to put my axle on then the carrier on the axle?
You do if you want to get the splines in the cones and the end gears to align. You need to do this before bolting the carrier back to gether. Once the carrier is bolted back together it'll be damn near impossible to get them aligned.
Hi guys...I am running a Holden Torana hillclimb/sprint car with a 355ci in it. (medium sized 4 door, 2260 lbs)I am also running the same diff out of a Nissan Skyline R31 as it was the correct width for the car and has rear discs.
FYI we have a local manufacturer that makes a Detroit Locker style diff for these that I am running in the race car. With the exchange rate its pretty cheap too I would suspect. $599 locally.
Rory http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/gfx/specials_2.pdf
Thanks for the info Rory!
What kind of oil (and additive?) are you running in your posi?
Its a Castrol Teflon based racing stuff...90/140 I think..will check.
R
OK, thanks, I use Castrol as well, Castrol SAF-XJ 90W140 ( SAF=Synthetic Axle Fluid), it's German made, but there's no teflon in it, I still use the GM additive together with the Castrol oil...
Im going to bump this thread up from the past and add to the knowledge already presented here. For axle bearings, timken set9 is the correct part. For the wheel seal, the right hand (passenger seal) listed from timken is correct. The left rear (drivers side) is incorrect however. Im not sure when this happened but timken is supplying the incorrect seal and your axle will not bolt in with this seal. It is simply too thick to bolt the retaining plate on. I ended up getting another seal from napa for the drivers side. Also i do not recommend using the passenger side seal on the drivers side since the grooves are in the wrong direction for the rotation. That is all. Hope this saves someone from the grief that i had to go through with my bearing and seal install. So for quick reference for someone:
Bearings: Timken Set9
Passenger side seal: Timken #710......(whatever it said in the beginning)
Drivers side seal: Get from napa
Hi James I'll give you what i've compiled so far, some of them I have guessed as I haven't had them on hand to count but I'm quite (very) confident they are correct. I've indicated which ones are confirmed.
my question is this how do i get one of the lokka kits for my camaro?? what would i order(interchange) cause thats looks like a doable solution to the posi cone problem
Posi cones can be shimmed tight again. It wasnt too big of an ordeal for me to do for the first time and only cost me 40 bucks (30 for the machine work on the cones, and 10 for the shims).
How many hours of labor is it to swap out rears? Lets say im getting rid of my 10 bolt and getting a Borg Warner 9... without having to rebuilt anything what would it take to pull down my rear and replace it? Just trying to get an idea on the cost to have this done. Thanks!
It would take half a day at most if you have 2 people. The thing that may hold you up is the brake lines. Brake lines on 82 and 83's have a different flare than any year thereafter. It's not a bad problem but be advised so you don't end up changing brake lines once the rears in the car.
Edit: If you pull the rear end out it would most likely be in you best interest to go ahead and replace the fuel tank or at least drop it out replace the the fuel pump and the hose attaching it to the sending unit. But that's just my opinion. Good Luck!!!!!
I have a 1987 Iroc Z..... I found a guy selling a Borg Warner (ill include the link below) and know that the 10 bolt I have now is nowhere near as strong as the Borg Warner is. I dont really wanna have mine rebuilt so I have been searching for the 9 bolt.
Hopefully I can get this shipped and im HOPING its in good shape... any ideas on what a rebuilt would run for both the 10 and 9 bolt? Just to give me an idea. I know its more expensive to have the 9 but I would rather have the better rear.
Looking at the pictures in the link, I noticed the red color inside the axle.
When I changed the oil in my 9-bolt, last summer, I saw the same red color.
What is it, and is it normal??
( Btw, I wish somebody in my country was offering a 9-bolt for $ 275.....!!)
Last edited by Fire"Dutch"Bird; 03-16-2009 at 02:54 PM.
Going through my 9 bolt now and have been doing a lot of reasearch. Here's what I've found.
Posi units.
I lucked up and got another 3 series off ebay. Tans Am Creations (ebay store) www.tacreationsusa.com (305) 769-0985 in FL Jeff has a lot of used components and is very helpfull. Right now he has a good 3 series posi for $300+ shipping.
Also www.9bolt.com (aka www.diffsolutions.com) has used and new components. New 3 series posi is $550+ shipping and a used unit is $300+. Shipping was around $100 for either.
Ring and pinion.
Lot's of sources carry the 3.70 gear. Summit 800-230-3030 Just Differentials 866-349-6801 to name a few. I went with National Drivetrain 866-427-0080 Jose had the Motive R&P and a complete install kit for $280+ shipping. Located in Chicago so UPS standard shipping time is pretty good. (to me anyway) West coasters may want to use Just Differentials since they're in WA and carry everything.
TA cover and stud kit.
Lots of sources. Of course, TA Performance 480-922-6807, Just Differentials, Summit. I went with Hawks 3rd gen 864-855-2694 because they had a little better price ($169.90+ shipping for girdle and stud kit) and the shipping was convenient for me.
So far my cost is $250 for the posi, $302 for R&P+kit and $184.90 for the girdle and stud kit. Allow for an additional $25 for oil and misc and it looks like I'll be into this for around $762. Not cheap, but should be as stout as a 9 bolt will get and about a third of the cost of a 12 bolt.
So far my cost is $250 for the posi, $302 for R&P+kit and $184.90 for the girdle and stud kit. Allow for an additional $25 for oil and misc and it looks like I'll be into this for around $762. Not cheap, but should be as stout as a 9 bolt will get and about a third of the cost of a 12 bolt.
If anyone in the Mississippi Gulf Coast area's interested in one of these with the disc brakes, alum support cover and parking brake cables installed, ready to bolt in, let me know. I'll part with it for $500.
If anyone in the Mississippi Gulf Coast area's interested in one of these with the disc brakes, alum support cover and parking brake cables installed, ready to bolt in, let me know. I'll part with it for $500.
Oh sure just after I ordered my parts! lol Actually, that's a good deal. What gear ratio and what was done to the posi?
If anyone in the Mississippi Gulf Coast area's interested in one of these with the disc brakes, alum support cover and parking brake cables installed, ready to bolt in, let me know. I'll part with it for $500.
One more thing tricky1, why did you pull it and how did it hold up for ya?
I put in a Moser 12 bolt with a 4.11 gear. Our best ET's with the 9 bolt with a 3.27 gear was 12.46. Could've probably did better with a little more stall convertor. Couldn't stall it over 2000 rpms without pulling through the light. Still having that problem too. Last February we replaced the cones in the carrier. Got them from 9bolt.com. We raced it for a year without any problems. Kind of wish I would've kept it in spent the money on a stroker instead of the rearend. Oh well, live and learn.
I put in a Moser 12 bolt with a 4.11 gear. Our best ET's with the 9 bolt with a 3.27 gear was 12.46. Could've probably did better with a little more stall convertor. Couldn't stall it over 2000 rpms without pulling through the light. Still having that problem too. Last February we replaced the cones in the carrier. Got them from 9bolt.com. We raced it for a year without any problems. Kind of wish I would've kept it in spent the money on a stroker instead of the rearend. Oh well, live and learn.
Still available? Any unwanted noise on normal driving?
FYI- I went through my 9 bolt this winter replacing the gears with a Motive brand 3.70, very low mileage posi, carrier stud kit, TA rear cover and new bearings etc. Holding up very well behind a built L98, TKO 600 and BFG drag radials. Aprox 450 RWHP with nitrous. 7.60's 1/8 mi and 1.75 60' times. Gonna get more agressive with the launch next time out. Hoping to get 60' times down closer to 1.50-1.60's.
Does anyone have a picture of the 9 bolt cone space window? I am trying to buy a rear, and I need the guy to take a picture of the gap, but I can't find him a picture to show as an example.
Does anyone have a picture of the 9 bolt cone space window? I am trying to buy a rear, and I need the guy to take a picture of the gap, but I can't find him a picture to show as an example.
Here is a picture of my 9 bolt carrier after i reshimmed it. You can see one of the windows on the side of the carrier towards the top right and just barely make out the cone and the gap between it and the carrier. There are two windows on each side of the carrier (one more on the other side of where u see and two below the ring gear). Now a good thing to note is even if the cones are touching the case does not necessarily mean the posi is useless, it just means that it may be bad and if its not bad it DEF needs a reshim.
