Here's what I've got: 1989 Firebird Formula 350 80K miles Two Tone Red and Silver Factory Stuff: -Power Windows -Power Locks -Cruise Control -T-Tops -WS6 Performance Suspension -Cloth Seats -Power Hatch Stuff I've added and Mods: -SLP Cold Air Kit -Ported Plenum -TPIS Runners -Accel Big Mouth Intake -Hooker 1 5/8" Headers and Y-Pipe (Ceramic Coated) -Flowmaster Single Exit Cat Back Exhaust (to promote the sleeper look) -Random Technology Stainless Steel Cat -Kenny Brown Weld-In Subframe Connectors -BMR Adjustable Trailing Arms -BMR Adjustable Tracking Bar -BMR Trailing Arm Relocation Brackets (Bolt On) -17" Firehawk Wheels (Goodyear tires have only a few thousand miles) -2001 Leather Trans Am Fully Adjustable and Inflatable Power Seats -Trans Am Tail Lights (work exactly as originals and correctly wired, no hack jobs here) -Trunk-Mounted Optima Red Top (used Mad Electrical trunk mount kit) -Rebuilt Distributor Using GM Rebuild Kit and MSD Cap -MSD Coil -New Coolant Resevoir -All New Coolant Hoses (except heater hose behind passenger head, which I have but forgot to install) -Be Cool Radiator and Cap -Moog Inner and Outer Tie Rods -Hotchkis Tie Rod Adjusters -Spohn 13" Big brake kit with Cross Drilled Rotors and Wilwood 4 Piston Calipers -Rebuilt and Powder Coated PBR Rear Calipers with Hawk HPS brake Pads -Top Down Solutions Wonder Bar -Aftermarket Fiberglass Aero Spoiler (paint matched perfectly) -Pioneer Detachable Face CD player -Top Down Solutions Door Hinge Repair Kit (not installed, but doors aren't sagging anyway) -Polished Stainless Fasteners All Over the Place -Power Master Chrome 140 Amp Alternator I'll also include the original seats which are in great shape except one hole in driver's seat, the original 16" Formula wheels (complete with Goodyear tires only a few thousand miles on those and caps), and all the other original parts I still have. I kept almost everything! Here's the bad: -The car is not running properly. If I remove the MAF, the car will run, but it will not run with the MAF installed. Bad MAF right? Well, I've tried two other known good MAFs with the same result. I'm electrical whiz and my patience has run out. -The car had one crunch back in 2004 while it was parked. A truck backed into the line between the driver side fender and door. Top notch repair was done at Quality Auto Body in Visalia and the repair is top notch. Paint matches perfectly. Unfortunately, they were unable to replace the decal that separates the red and silver on the fender as it is no longer available. it bugs me to the point that I've considered painting the car all red, but I like the silver and hardly anyone but me notices. -The carpet is okay, but I'd replace it because I'm a perfectionist. -The t-top bag nylon straps are faded (I'd have new nylon sewn there too. Again, I'm a perfectionist) -Headliner and Sun Visor fabric is sagging -Interior door panels needed to be replaced -Wiring isn't finished. I had an Ungo Alarm system on it, which I grew tired of, so I removed most of it, but there are still wires installed. I installed relays on the passenger side window to speed up the movement (Which works great. It only takes about five seconds to go up.) The driver side window isn't done, but I have the relays wired and ready to install in the door. I've also got the harness and wires run to hook up to the 2001 Trans Am seats, but the wires aren't connected yet. The good news is that I used good automotive wiring from www.wiringproducts.com and I crimped and soldered every connection I made. I have pictures, but won't be able to post them for a week or so until I get home. I'm currently deployed with the Navy. The car is currently in Hanford, CA and I'll be home to show it on December 5th. I'll be moving to Washington State on the 19th and I'd rather not take it with me (U Haul trailer costs $600), so if you're interested, that'd be a great time. If you live in Washington, I'll be moving to the Mount Vernon area and you can see the car there. Down and Dirty: I'll take 10K for the car and parts. You could part it out for more than that! If you've got the time and some electrical know how, this will be one sweet car. You could sell the original parts (tires, seats, intake manifold, etc) and use that money to finish the interior. You can email me at mark.roth@navy.mil or you can call me at 559-381-6049. As I said, I'll be albe to send pictures in about a week and I show the car by the 5th. I love this car, but I've been ignoring my family to work on it. Mark

Hey just wanted to ask about your MAF problem, did you try replacing the relays? We just went through your same scenario with my wife's ta.

To be honest, no I have not. I did swap it with the relay next to it. As I understand it, they're identical. Same effect. I suppose I should replace both and see what happens before I give up. It just seems unlikely to me that both relays are bad when it ran fine before I tore into it. It's too beautiful of a Formie to give up on so easily. Unfortunately for you guys, if I get her running, I'll be inclined to keep her.

Okay, now I need to sell the Firebird because my daughter totaled her Volvo and I need to buy her something dependable to drive to college. After screwing around with the Formie some more, I learned that the problem is that the MAF isn't getting it's 5 volt reference, so there is a voltage drop there somewhere. I'll take $4,000 for it. All you have to do is show up at my home in Bow, WA with 4k and a trailer and you'll be a very happy camper. You could part it out and make money on the deal if nothing else. It breaks my heart to sell it, but I need the money.

Just wanted to show with the pics how seriously I take the details. The intake, plenum, runners, rear brakes, are all powder coated, rebuilt, ported, etc. I will send more pics to anyone who wants em. Let me know.

TTT for a killer deal!!!!

If I had the cash and was near there, I would be all over this car!!! What a deal!! Sorry to hear about your daughter's Volvo though. Good luck with the sale.

Mark, Say, i had the same thing here happen to me, with mine, if yea wanna fix the problem, what yea need ta do is REMOVE, the passenger fender, and BEHIND it, youl see a HARNESS, wrapped in like a PLASTIC cover, peel back the cover, and youl see a pac of like 100 small wires, CHECK ALL of them for any cuts,, entire severings, yea may have ta realy look hard into ta see, if theres even as much as 1 of em cut , the cars gonna have alot of poor running issues. I here had 11 out of like I dunno 100 plus of em damaged, soon as I reconnected em, and covered em up with some black tape, the car was fine.