InteriorDiscussion about interior modifications like dashboard swaps, seat replacements, or general interior repair.
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Well check to make sure you're not hooking up to a ground. The wires of interest to you (on the body wiring) are the brown, gray and light green wires.
Brown is the wire labelled "E" on the third gen harness, gray is "D" and light green is "C". The light green wire isn't as thick as the other two. Brown should be hot when the ignition is on, gray gets power from brown whenever the controls are on any setting but off, and light green gets power from brown whenever the controls are on an AC setting or defrost.
There are two other wires from the body that aren't hooked up to the switch. Dark green and black. Dark green is "B" on the third gen harness and black is "A". Dark green is supposed to get a ground from black whenever an AC setting is selected. Unfortunately the 4th gen switch does not have any way of supporting this feature.
I would check to make sure that you aren't accidently using the dark green or black wire. This could cause the short if you are.
Couldn't a relay be wired up to get "B" and "A" to connect to each other by using the power from "C"? All you want is B&A to connect to each other when A/C switch is on, right?
Here's how. "C" is wired to both the a/c controls and this relay. When "C" is switched on by the A/C controls, it will also give power to the relay. When the relay energizes(has ground and power across it), it closes the switch inside and connects B to A.
Here's how. "C" is wired to both the a/c controls and this relay. When "C" is switched on by the A/C controls, it will also give power to the relay. When the relay energizes(has ground and power across it), it closes the switch inside and connects B to A.
Yah, I had thought of the relay. If you know where to find the relay, let me know.
I had a few extra from the LT1 swap and then a few more extra from the dash swap. Any relay meant for a car, with 4 wires will work, even 5 wires will - just don't use the 5th wire(87A wire). Any auto store sells them too.
if your car is a v8 and you have a v8 cluster, etc. you shouldnt need a box. but there are exceptions.
years of clusters. v6 cluster, ls1 cluster etc.
see if everything is right before you buy a box and still have the same problems.
an msd will not fix your problem either. one of their tach adapters might work.
all depends.
what motor and cluster are you running. etc... ?
yeah its carbed. but when i rev it, it seems so floppy revvin up... quicker then it should.
the guy could have lied to me about the tach being v8. it idles at 800rpm just like it should.
if it wasnt a v8 cluster, idle wouldnt be at 800. somethings loose or damaged somewhere along the line.
ive seen and done it strait to a stock tach before with no trouble.
good luck.
im having a problem with the dash, everything is ok. But for the bolts that hold the dash to the firewall at the top, if i have the farthest one on the passenger side and the middle one and TRY to put the driver side one in the screw doesnt even reach the dash. I have to put stress on it for it to go in, and i did. The next morning the passenger side dash bracket cracked and popped out.
ok i need some big help with the wiring up of my lt1 cluster i have read everthing i could find took down notes anything to get these to work but i get nothing none of my gauges will move i think after i cut out my factory connectors i had three wires left over that i could not find a place for maybe a dark brown and a green i think not sure but shouldn't i see something working ar least?
ok after rechecking my third gen wiring i have 2 dark gray wires another dark gray with stripe and a green wire with black stripe those wires are whats left from my factory connectors
dark grey i didnt use, but there was only 1 dark grey, there are a couple other grey wires they are for illumination but are more lighter then the dark grey.
im having a problem with the dash, everything is ok. But for the bolts that hold the dash to the firewall at the top, if i have the farthest one on the passenger side and the middle one and TRY to put the driver side one in the screw doesnt even reach the dash. I have to put stress on it for it to go in, and i did. The next morning the passenger side dash bracket cracked and popped out.
did you ever come up with anything on this because i test fitted mine yesterday and seen the same thing? but any way thanks for all your help roughskinjrz i seem to have the gauges working but the high beam light but im having the jumpy tach problem and i have tryed an ls1 and two different lt1 clusters and get the samething so i started on the headlight switch and now im hung-up on that my factory switch has a orange,red 2xyellow,gray,and white wire and the 4th gen plug was a orange,red,pink,yellow,and a gray or brown wire plus a thin black and gray wire but i figured that those two thin ones where for the light but maybe i was wrong!
haven't made it on here much recently, rough....the dash isn't going to fit on the drivers side, the curvature of the two types of cars (3rd to 4th gens) are different. What i'd do is use a spacer to take care of the distance between the mounting flange and the dash, this'll keep stress points to a minimum, and also allow you to still use the mounting tab. See what you can find to fix that other mount, if you can't find anything, glue it , and reduce any strain on it also. Best of luck, with all the time i've spent with this car, i still don't have my dimmer switch working, but then again, havne't driven or seen the car now in about 2 months. very sad.
I have been wanting to do the swap for awhile and was wondering if anyone could tell me what year dash and cluster would match up best with my 87 305 carb trans am i was also wondering what i would need to get in the way of vss or dakota box. Any help would be appreciated
I know this is a old post, but I havent found anything that says how the 3rd and 4th get vent assb. are tired together. thats to only thing I am having issues with trying to figure out how to get the air into the 4th gen dash assb.
I know this is a old post, but I havent found anything that says how the 3rd and 4th get vent assb. are tired together. thats to only thing I am having issues with trying to figure out how to get the air into the 4th gen dash assb.
Just try and cut the 4th gen vents in the back until they match up somewhat. Mine aren't perfect but I think I'm going to try running ac ductwork from home depot or something then use padding to keep air from leaking.
i was thinking about that also, but the vent system is so much diff on the 4th gen. the 92 ac box outlet is angled and the 4th gen duc work is straight. I am using a 95 dash. I quess I will figure something. thanks for the info
you just have to trim the center vent outlet from the 4th gen to same fashion as that used on the third gen, use your thirdgen vent as a guide, or make a template of the different pieces of the 3rd gen unit w/ cardboard, trace, and cut away...size wise the a/c reciever area (center part) is about the same as the 3rd gen unit, and it works pretty well...
I got a problem... Wiring up my 4th gen headlight switch and dimmer switch is not working out too well... Here are the colors that I have to match up, yet I'm not sure where they go.
From my third gen side to the 4th gen side here is what I got.
Third gen headlight switch...
red
orange
black
brown
yellow
green
white
Then the 3rd gen dimmer switch...
light yellow?
purple
black
grey
Then on my 4th gen headlight switch the colors go like this...
red (x2)
orange
black
yellow
grey
brown
Gauges work.
Gas gauge just reads full when the car is empty (i know this for a fact since I ran it out)
Blinkers dont work
Cant figure out the wiring for the headlights...
Anyone??
And the reason my gauges wernt coming on was because I blew a fuse somehow...
I have to wierd problems with my guages. When I turn my dimmer switch all the way to on to turn on interior lights my whole cluster lights up. Also when I turn on my headlights my fuel guage goes to empty, and it went up when I got gas so I believe its hooked up to the right one. I replaced the 3rd gen light switch with 4th already and just on both black connecters on 4th gen wired it to the on black one for the 3rd gen dimmer. Everything else seems to be working fine.
