Alright, its an 89 IROC, with 350 TPI. Megasquirt ECM Now, What Im wanting to do is pretty much hook a toggle switch up for the ACC/RUN and put a push button in for starting. Problems Im looking at in my head before I start, is removing the VATS all together, also the steering wheel lock. Usualy it comes unlocked when you turn the key, is there a way to bypass that as well? So I want to do away with the vats and steering wheel lock all together.

VATS is just the resistor in the ignition key.

Find the resistance of that "chip" (it is just a resister, there are like 14 different resistor values used.....and splice that into the 2 wires in the column, that read that. Sorry, I can't help you any farther, like identifying the wires. I'm sure someone that knows will chime in.

As for the steering wheel lock....I've heard about disabling the rod in the column that is responsible for that, but thats all I know.

I believe the EARLY 3rd gens didn't have it, so it should just be a matter of removing what was added.

The VATS module is behind the dash on the passenger side
It is not the easiest thing to access!!

You can bypas the entire module by jumper wires on the connector
This would basically make that chip (resistor) on your key useless

A push button start is nice to have
Keep in mind that on new cars with this option
You must have a key fob somewhere in the vehicle so the car's
theft system knows it is you who is starting the car

Otherwise anyone can start the vehicle!!

If you need more info, you can pm me.
I will not post how to bypass a vehicle's theft system on a public forum

The steering wheel lock is easy!

It is engaged by a linkage in the column that is controlled by the key lock cylinder, not a rod.

If you remove the steering wheel you will find a round wheel of sorts
It has several cut outs on the outside of it. It is directly under a plastic sheild.
They make a special tool to depress it so you can remove the retaining clip for it.
Once removed. cut or grind the metal between the cut outs on the outside of this.
This will leave you with a smooth outside surface, reinstall

if you remove that steering wheel lock plate, I would just not put it in and see how that goes. Or make a smaller one out of metal that doesn't have the teeth outside.

if you do'nt have that plate you will loose all the bearings in the uper colum and that will be bad grind off the teeth

Question, Im doint an Lt1 swap (motor and dash). Got complete car, if i hook all this up (in my 85) is there anything i have to do to get this to work. I mean is there a VATS system built in the dash wiring i will be using???