diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I know it's been a while for an update. I'll be ordering a bunch of parts right before I get back so that I can get to working on it right away.

I'm ordering
AI 190cc heads
AI street/strip intake
stainless steel works headers, y-pipe ceramic coated
spohn subframe connectors
Founders rear control arms and panhard bar
tuner cats for the LT1

I can't wait to get this all together

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Nice man, are you getting a new cam to match with the heads?

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Are you still planning to run that GM847 cam you linked a while back?
I don't quite understand your engine combo....
1. Why the 190 heads and not their 200cc?
2. Why not a stock LT1 intake?
3. AI's cams can do way better than the 847 (their 228 I'm running gives a much better powerband - avg as well as peak).

Don't get me wrong, you've made a wise move by going with the AI heads.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I figure the 190cc is all I really need to meet my goal with the extra parts in the bottom end
if I am doing the heads I might as well have the intake, unless it really wouldn't need to be done
for the cam I already have it installed and set. I would probably entertain the idea of a AI cam if some one was interested to buy the 847. How is the AI cam on the street?
My goals through out the project fluctuated a little bit as new problems arrose.

this is the current engine set up
LT1 bored .030" over
eagle cast crank stock stroke
reconditioned rods
Keith Black pistons 7cc dish
GM847 cam
comp roller lifters
comp stainless steel full roller rockers NSA
comp beehive springs
melling pump
30lb injectors
stock throttle body

I guess I try to meet my goal and not surpass it. I really don't like rebuying parts. that always pushes up the price fast. the other part is I have to pass a budget through the household commander.

Kory-88Iroc 350 tpi

iTrader: (1)

I have Ai's 228 cam with the 200cc heads, ported intake, ect on my 355. The cam is very streetable. I don't have verified numbers yet, but Phil told me to expect 440whp if everything was right. I'm running -5cc mahle pistons, impy .028 gaskets and a .010" decked block. giving me about 11.5to1 compression. The car has torque everywhere and is very snappy.
Kory

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

There's nothing to be gained by a ported/modified intake manifold with those 190 heads and the rest of your setup. Talk to Phil at AI to verify that. Per his recommendation, I'm running the stock intake with their 200cc heads on my 350 and putting down 425 SAE rwhp through an A4.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

that sounds great, so I should probably rethink this setup and email phil. does he have a direct email address, or should I call him? what ratio rockers are you running, and size of your throttle body? I'm not looking forward to taking my engine out again to install a cam, I might as well though. I never got any complete feedback on the cam that I'm using right now. What is the lobe seperation on your cam? It's sounding to me the 228 would be a very good option. I appreciate the input and the guidance.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Phil@advancedinduction.com
It sounds like Kory may mave the same AI cam I have. Mine is 108 LSA, installed at 105 ICL. .61X lift w/1.6 rockrs.
I'm running a Holley 58mm TB.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

how's the braking with the 108 LSA? I'll make sure to email him. Thanks alot

TexasLT1

I think we all have similar setups now. I'm running Ai Trickflow 215s though. And an 847

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Perfectly acceptable. That concern didn't happen to be on my mind the first time I drove the car, and I didn't notice a thing different.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I shot Phil an email

Kory-88Iroc 350 tpi

iTrader: (1)

I've also got 1.6 rrs and a holley 58mm tb. You will absolutely be happy you went with Ai. I will be having them do a set of 243 heads for my lq4 in my s10.
Ron and Phil are great guys,and there products have never been anything but exeptional.
Kory

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I definitely think I will like them too. I've been eyeing them for a while, just couldn't fit them in the budget. Now is the time for them.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I ordered the AI heads along with the cam. They should be showing up a few weeks before I do.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I'm back from my trip, and I already pulled the engine back out of my car. tomorrow night I'm going to pull the heads off and cam out to replace them with the good stuff.

For you guys with the AI heads, did they come with new pushrod guide plates and studs?

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Mine did since I got the complete valvetrain setup from them, minus lifters.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

on the basic heads package it says locators are included. I'm kinda bummed out because not even a 1 1/2 months later they come out with package deals that include all the gaskets, valvetrain, and hardware that is needed. And I payed very close to that already, just on the heads, cam and head gaskets. I think that I will call them to see if I can at least get a hold of some of their valvetrain goodies.

86LG4Bird

iTrader: (1)

Huh?? They had a complete package already 3 years ago when I got mine.
Yes, DO call them.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

So I welded a better notch into my frame 2 weekends ago when I found some time. I still have to grind it down and make sure there aren't any voids and maybe put and extra bead on it. I'm still a little shaky with a harbor freight welder with a gas regulator that blew out mid pass.

I have all the parts that I need. The week after the next I'm still on leave, and I should have plenty of time to put everything together.

I bought a dakota digital analog guage set for the car so I get to test that out too. And last thing has anybody used stainless works headers/Y-pipe with T56 and Spohn's crossmember? How much modding needed to be done?

here's some pics of what the notch looked like before

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

Forward progress!!! I have just about everything hooked up. I still need to bend my own A/C line to clear the Stainless Works header on the Dr. side. The Pass side header is having a new bung welded on in a better spot and a portion of the collector pushed in about a 1/4" so it isn't resting on the slave cylinder spacer. I'm pretty sure that I will have to do something to the trans crossmember to clear the Y-pipe.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

got some more progress to report.

I had my header clearanced and the O2 bung relocated and welded in an angle. It fits just right now. I'm still waiting on the new A/C line to be bent up for me, I'll be calling the place tomorrow to see what the progress is.

I installed the Dakota Digital analog guage cluster. I found an LED light pod that fits right into the cigarette lighter hole that is drivin by the guage module to be used as a shift light.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

few more pics

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Love those guages man.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

they definitely are sweet looking

cuisinartvette

You made the right choice by going to AI they will work good.



To the poster who said port matched LT1 heads a similar to 847 cam got 523 to the tire you mean 423 with the 383 perhaps? Theres no way thats making close to 600+chp sorry.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I'm just about to start it up. All I need to do is tune the PCM, and connect the intake tubing up. Which I am looking for some couplers to go from the TB to the MAF then MAF to straight pipe.

I'm using tuner cats to do the programming. This is my first time tuning anything, so any tips/ hints are much appreciated. When ever I try to pull the stock tune I get a no communication error. Are there any suggestions on what I might be missing?

Tinbender59

http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/lt1swap.html

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I wish I knew about that option. I definitely would've considered it.

Tinbender59

I have a complete LT1 on the motor stand right now, and I have been thinking about this plight. I may have a "patch" for part of the water issue. I will be looking into it, post the results later.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

that sounds great. I'm definitely curious to see what you come up with.

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

eficonnection, 24x, $500 + some LS coil packs, done.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

That was definitely the plan for when this opti goes on me. I'm at the point where if I were too much more money and my wife will kill me. It definitely clean up my mess of ignition wires.

Tinbender59

$500 How?? Everything that I have seen gets into triple digits real fast. man I would have considered 24X for that price. as I have easily that much in my vortec distributor setup.

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

All of the important parts are $500, as compared to your vortec dist setup:

Its $540 for the 96/97 LT1 timing cover kit, the lower end truck coils can be had dirt cheap, the pcm is another $50 junkyard item.

Yes it gets up there real fast if you buy new everything, but just like your vortec dist setup can be cheap if you do the work yourself.

Tinbender59

$250 for the manifold mod, $50 for a distributor, $100 for a salvage yard timing chain cover, reluctor and hub, $50 for 411 ECU, $350 for dyno tune. Done and running for under a grand.

I be cheap!!!!

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Yeah they're still close:

250 manifold mod
50 dist
100 timing chain cover, hub, reluctor

$400, $540 for the eficonnection stuff, $100ish for a set of coils

The rest is common between both setups. $240 more for coil per cylinder, shorter plug wires, etc.

I'm not saying what you did was, or is a bad idea by any stretch, i'm just saying the 24x can be done on an LT1 for a reasonble price as well.

Tinbender59

I would really like to go to CNP, Have to do 24X to do that ??? who knows, maybe I hit the Jackpot next week ---------------- do I have to purchase tickets to win????

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

LTCC makes a conversion kit where you can keep your stock PCM. The kit comes with the harness and other odds and ends for $400, but you need to get your own coils.

Look up "KillJoy"s swap on here he did that conversion.

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

i would do the LS pcm/setup since you would no longer be limited to the 7100rpm LT1 pcm, as well as the LS pcm flat out being better and easier to get tuned. (everybody has hptuners nowadays to do the LS1 cars) do the 24x, and if you didnt change around the wiring in the harness you could have a 4/7 swap cam ground for it. that would be pretty sweet.

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

Had the delteq on one of my old LT1's in a thirdgen, it was a nice setup, however, im not sure if its the same case with the ltcc, as the delteq, but I believe it is, they use aftermarket boxes, which you have to hope the companys keep making if something goes bad, well most people do anyway.

With the 24x setup, the main thing you're buying is the machined sensor wheel and sensor bracket, anything goes wrong you go buy LSx replacement parts at the parts store.

cprmn14

iTrader: (3)

Good point, if it were me personally i would do the 24x swap, but i figured id throw in another option. Seems alittle easier to someone not wanting to re-pin new PCM connectors. As close to a dirrect swap as you can get with LTCC, just splice 2 wires and call it a day.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I would prefer the 24x for the distributorless and the ls1 pcm

Tinbender59

I am working on a mod for the OPTI to be able to use it with the LS1 ECU, and not have to do my distributor mod. plus working on a patch for the water in OPTI issue, when I get it worked out I will start a new thread.

P.S. I could use a junk OPTI to experiment with, anyone?? I have a brand new one on my motor just kinda hate to trash it someone could use it until they got their mod done.

Z28ricer

iTrader: (2)

I'll look around, I may have an opti, if so i'll send it to you.

However keep in mind that there are plenty of patches for the supposed issue.

As well as the coil setups available eliminating most of the problem.

However keep in mind, you'll be hard pressed to offer a solution that is cost effective, yet priced far enough below going 24x, to make it worth not getting all of the added benefits of the LS pcm.

Tinbender59

yes sir, cost is the Key, I need to find a laser cutter, water Knife, or get a punch built that wont bankrupt my banker, to manufacture the preposed mod for the opti, hoping to get the cost around $150 or less. then all you would need is a 24X reluctor and pickup, some wiring mods, LS PCM, coils, then rock and roll. ***** I will Pay shipping if you can find one, that would help me a bunch.

I guess I will start a new thread and stop Hijacking this one, sorry dude

gm muscle

I've been reading this thread from time to time...checking out the updates. I too am considering the efi connection conversion for the LT1/4L60E swap into my '87 Monte Carlo SS. I bought a '95 Z28 Camaro for $400.
I was able to find and purchase a '97 LT1 timing cover (OBII) on ebay for $100. If you purchase everything from EFI Connection, yeah, you'll dish out $1,500 easy. You can save a little by getting some used 5.3L truck coils. Also, you can save some money if you can make your own coil bracket.

A lot of great info on this thread!

DIGGLER

iTrader: (1)

yup. instead of trying to come up with a new solution to save $2-300, spend that time doing something else. be better off saving up a little while longer and getting the 24x, imo.

diablizzard

iTrader: (8)

I can't wait to see what you come up with. Would it be you making a new cap that would be without the ignition wire connectors and lower profile for without the rotor? Also you might be able to build in a shield from water at the same time.

No problem, I'm just waiting for a wire to show up from Pocket. I'm going through some training that requires me to be away from my house for the next 2 weeks.

If you probably read my other thread I had problems with communicating with the PCM. I traced it down to missing one pin in the PCM connector that powers the PCM. This one just slipped through the cracks, it happens. It's all good though. All I have to do is splice it into the other power wire.

ringo234

It's possible to get a good deal on used motor mine was used, but you just need to know where it comes from. I got from a club member that had just built a new motor and I bought his old long (20,000 miles on it) for $2000.
another $500 for a ported intake from an other a member end up with 350 RWHP and 370 RWTQ.