micktroup2

Glad to hear that! I watched the video of the instillation and while it is a lot of money, to be able to order a crate motor, connect up the Atomic EFI and basically drive away without spending weeks/months building or modifying a wiring harness is tempting... Of course, there is that 'where the hell do I get the money??' problem!! Sure would clean up the engine bay too!

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Apparently I can upload pics again. Rolled the car to my paint shop and begin to clean the underneath. 1.5 hours and I have the passenger side done from the firewall to the axle, and half the trans tunnel done. Been scraping the thick stuff off with a putty knife and washing the rest off with thinner on a rag. No real surprises yet, just very minor spots of surface rust and one crack in the floor pan, probably before I installed the subframe connectors.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Here is the harness all wrapped and loomed. I have the aldl wires loose as of now, not 100 per want sure what I am doing here as of now. I see that 2 wires go between the obd1 and the c207 connector. The idea right now is to utilize those two wires for the 12v source and serial data, to the obd2 aldl in stock location, and then run a new ground if there isn't one to steal from the stock obd1 connector. Wire colors won't be correct, but this would save me from running all new wires to the aldl, let me kep stock diagnostic link location, and still allow the harness to simply unplug for easy removal in the future. I like to think it will never need to be removed again, but I have thought that with a lot of things On this car, and so far I think almost all of it has been out atleast twice for one reason or another, lol.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Pic didn't work in last post, lets try again. "Friggen phone......"

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Here is the short harness from the 4th gen tank. I simply tied the two grounds into one, cut the old pins off and crimped on the 3rd gen sending unit pins, so I could put my thirdgen plug on the 4th gen tank. Now it's nothing more than a plug it in, and it works.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Had a swap project detour, and cleaned the entire underbody of the car with a putty knife and lacquer thinner on rags. Got it back down to the factory edp primer, scuffed it up and painted it satin black. Fixed a few problem areas as well ( couple stress cracks, most likely from body flex before subframe connectors were installed).

Back on track with the swap now, and got the tank in the car, fuel filler hose shortened and installed too.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

The 4th gen tank is way easier to deal with having the separate filler neck. I kept the stock fuel lines to the filter from my donor car, and modified and relocated the thirdgen fuel filter bracket to work with this application.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

The 4th gen tank is way easier to deal with having the separate filler neck. I kept the 4th gen fuel lines up to the t-block from my donor car, and modified/re-located the stock thirdgen filter bracket for this application.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Sorry for the double post, phone on fritz again as usual....

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Got the last of the engine parts on, except for the ls6 intake that STILL has t shown up. Measured my slave to pressure plate gap, and although its generally accepted that the ls7 clutch and flywheel needs no shimming, mine does. 1.917 from the throw out bearing to the trans surface and 2.241 from the pressure plate fingers to the trans mating surface. 0.324 gap, I have seen 1/16-1/8 is right, and also seen .175-.225 is correct. Those two tolerance allotments don't equal way other, so I have conflicting I formation. Any I sight on the correct gap is very appreciated. Either way, my .324 is just too much, I just want to do this right the first time!

jazzdadss

Great Job! My harness has me stumped for the moment. Keep up the good work!

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Had a good productive day with the car, amongst helping my father move and a small side cash job at home. Made a trip to the junkyard, got a late model s10 power distribution block with the little cover, a 4 inch MAF with plug, and a throttle cable with the correct end for the ls1 throttle body to hybrid with my thirdgen cable..... All for ten bucks!!!

Had a friend call in a favor and make me a slave shim today out of 1/8 inch stock. Got my gab between the TOB and clutch fingers down to .208 after re-measuring. Motor and trans went in tonight! Motor with bell housing went in through the top super easy with no fight, and trans went in from the bottom and slid into place perfectly without the slightest struggle. Wish my friggen ls6 intake would get here, I've lost hope of it ever arriving..... Just happy to see the drivetrain in the car finally after having a empty engine bay since August. Defrinately need springs, wonder if V6 springs would brig the nose down to the right height. Car only drops 1/4 - 1-2 tops with this motor and trans in.

jazzdadss

I would drive it 1st and let the front end settle to see where you really are as far as ride height, Then make a move on springs.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

The front springs aren't the factory springs. Previous owner started a v6 to sbc swap when I bought it and I have no idea what the springs are, but the front has always sat high, even with iron headeded small blocks. Been on my list of things to do for a few years now, but the lighter weight of the ls1 is probably intensifying this.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

After three attempts at bleeding the clutch, I came to a conclusion the clutch master had to be bad, after replacing it, I finally have a operating clutch. Got the cooling and heater hoses fit and installed, using factory radiator and fans. Harness is in the car now, for the most part, it fits very good, things did get a little tight at the firewall where the harness is fighting for space with the valve cover, heaterbox, and the heater core hoses. I opted to run the harness underneath the A/C delete box instead of I top of it. This is also a royal MFer PITA to get under there, but is totally worth it to have that much of the harness hidden. I used a power distribution block from a late model S truck like most are doing, it looks very clean and factory. I am happy with how clean the swap looks, I don't have fancy braided lines and tubular kmember, but to the unknowing, this would look like it came this way from factory. I cannot wait to get my intake this weekend so I can fire it off briefly, I did crank it over by the key to make sure it built oil pressure after being apart. After 15-20 revolutions the factory oil pressure guage jumped to 30 pounds, first time the factory guage has worked since I got the car in 05. I will disconnect and hook up a line guage once its running to compare readings for accuracy, but atleast I know it works and the motor does have oil pressure.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Close-up of the s truck power block mounted on the passenger side front fender area. Routed power distribution wires inside the fender rather than putting them back onto the starter post, I got the idea from pocket in another thread. I have had issues with these wires getting hot from header heat in the past, but that is no longer a worry now.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Upper hose, no trimming. Ordered for 95 3.4 firebird, dayco p/n E71321

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Lower hose, trimmed both ends to fit, not sure of application, but its dayco p/n d71321. These two hoses together were half the cost of the hawks lsx swap hoses and were in stock at the local oreileys store. This lower hose has enough clearance to the idler arm if you trim the ends right.

jazzdadss

Nice! Are you using the 3rd gen radiator?

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

I am using stock thirdgen radiator atleast for now.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

IT'S ALIVE!!! Fired it up for just for a brief moment, how could one not? I have the 4" MAF and pigtail, I just didn't even know about it when I put my stock MAF and IAT wires in. I threw the stock ls1 air I let on just to fire it up, I'll change the plug later when I get a CAI layed out. Cranked it just to build oil pressure, then cycled the key a few times and started immediately. So happy to everything is right this far. Will post a vid if I can figure if out on the phone, all I have until then....

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Having trouble getting the clutch to fully disengage. Pedal feels spongy after replacing the entire hydraulic system with the upgraded GM pieces. Have bled three times now, I am going to try the JMD method, as most seem to have best results with that one. If no luck after this I suppose the trans will come back down and add another shim. Release bearing to pressure plate fingers is around .200 inch gap now, maybe I need to shoot for .100? Had a friend come over tonight and put the techII scan tool on the car, and it did link up. Filled it with water and let it run a while and got the temp guage calibrated to match what the techII was reading for coolant temp for a accurate reading. Unfortunately my heater core began to **** water all over the floor, thankfully I did t have coolant in there yet. It's only two years old, but I had the heater hoses on and off many times fitting hoses and hard tubes around the harness ect. I am sure that's what did the heater core in.

jazzdadss

You made this look so easy!! AAARRRRRGGGGG!!!!!

!

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

I did do tons of reading on pockets threads, what helpled me the most was to have the threads brought up on my phone so I could reference them as I was having trouble during the harness. Once things start to click it really doesn't seem so bad, just takes tons of time and patience.

jazzdadss

Ive got 90% of it figured out, just a couple (Ha, May be 10) wires left. Mitchel 1 is of no help on these wires. Hopefully somebody will answer on my thread. Just giving you propps!!

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

I've been keeping an eye on your build, post up the rest of the wires you aren't sure about and I am sure we can figure it all out collectively.for the props

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Got the throttle cable made tonight. For using 3 separate cables, it actually came out nice and doesn't look like a hacked up mess. My neighbors are totally pissing in my cornflakes lately with 4 wheelers at obscure hours of the night, and all summer it's the same story with Harley Davidsons. Now that I have a throttle cable, I have the mind set to do a open header 6,000 Rpm burnout infront of their house at 9AM, since they don't seem to go to sleep until about 5AM....HAHA. If only I had the kahones...

86White_T/A305

Odd about your clutch issues.When I did my ls7 clutch I called about shims and was told not to use them.Havent had an issue but at first I was nervous..now I pound on it lol.Sweet car and clean build my friend

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks!

I bought my clutch setup from eBay and maybe I have a bunk goofball setup somehow. The only other explanation I can think of is the possibility of the crank thrust bearing being just that loose, to allow it all to walk so far forward. Both seem unlikely but possible I guess.

jazzdadss

9AM burnout!!! You gotta do it at least once! Don't get mad, get even!

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Isis take it for a very short and easy run today for the first time. It did stumble and such at constant speed, I am sure it's something that will be cured with a tune. Went and looked at a 28,000 mile roller 2001 trans am with a friend this morning, car was junk with terrible body and frame repair, but it had a tick master on it that I grabbed for 150 bucks! Out comes the trans again and out with the shim, and out with the 6 day old GM master so I can do what I should have done in The first place.

jazzdadss

I hope this works! Would be cool to see it running and shifting well.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

I need to figure out if I need to remove the slave shim when I change over to the tick master cylinder. Lord only knows I want to pull that trans back out for the 3rd time in lessen an a week, lol.

jazzdadss

http://www.tickperformance.com/conte...structions.pdf

Instructions for the Master.

musicfreako

iTrader: (1)

Being able to see this in person and hear it run was awesome. You've done a great job doing this swap. No corners cut, and everything is neat and tidy!

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks don, I appreciate it

Jazzdadss - thanks for the Instructions. I will probably try it without removing the shim, I don't see why it would be an issue.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

-first startup

-warm run/light rev

Never was able to upload the startup vid, so here's YouTube links instead.

jazzdadss

That sound is just sweet!

dprest68

iTrader: (1)

Nice! Congrats man!

86White_T/A305

Nice,she purrs like a tame lil kitty cat lol.I like the use of the air box,cant say ive seen anyone use it.

Anxious to see/hear how the first drive goes.Ever figure out your clutch issues?

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys, I appreciate it.

The air box is there just temporary, so I could start it. I have a 4 inch MAF that isn't in place yet, and most likely will just do a tube and cone filter like most do. Played around with shims but was never happy with the super low pedal engagement, couldn't change gears once running. I found a almost new tick mc and line for 150 and jumped on it, pedal feels "right" now, but haven't been able to drive it to see. All of our roads are either snow/ice, or salty.

I ran out of money to pay for exhaust and tune. If I didnt buy the hawks headers, I probably would have exhaust on it and tuned now. I work at a body shop and work has been slow. Monday I got caught in some slush and it pulled me off the edge of the road, booted four mail boxes like footballs with my front end. Although that is unfortunate, I do get to fix my own truck after hours, get all parts and materials at cost, which should put enough in my pocket for exhaust and the tune, and maybe the CAI.

The plan right now is 2.5 inch duals with xpipe real close to headers, and 4 inch round case magnaflows staggered near trans tunnel. Just can't decide on side exit on passenger side, or a panhard relo kit and traditional exhaust exit under the bumper.

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

I'd really consider trying to run 3" duals if I we're you. Im left wondering how much I left on the table when I built my 2.5" duals. With the stock panhard bar it was tight. With the relocation kit theres plenty of space. Eventually will be going 3" duals.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

3 inch is surely a possibility, I would rather, space is my only worry. Have any more pics of your current exhaust anywhere? I would be interested in seeing them. Ground clearance is a legitimate concern of mine, stock ride height, but Michigan roads are usually considered worst in the country...

Rich92 RS

iTrader: (16)

Yeah dragging ur exhaust wouldn't be fun. Ive got sportlines in the front, stock rear springs and haven't had any issues. Our roads aren't to bad though. First time building an exhaust and I rushed it. The rear most muffler is crooked, and I could of tucked up the xpipe better. Take your time and it should come out nice. I uploaded some pics of the exhaust:

http://s197.photobucket.com/albums/a...Swap%20Thread/

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the pics! I plan on using a real narrow xpipe just like yours, maybe closer to the headers, so I can stagger muffler on the side of the trans tunnel a out where your xpipe is. This would give me the option for side exit, I need to research some more on how muffler and xpipe placement affects performance and sound. If I have the same ground clearance you have, I will be more than happy, it looks nice and clean.

STREETDEMON

3" is overkill, you need a lot of cubes to require dual 3" pipes.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

I have my heart set on the 4 inch round case magnaflows, mostly for space. These are not even available in a 3 inch inlet/outlet, which is pretty much dictating 2.5 inch exhaust. I do agree, after research, 3 inch is overkill for my setup being used on the street. Plenty of 500+ HP cars on 2.5.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Summit came today! Xmember from hawks and silicone boots and Tbolts for CAI will be here later this week.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

Half of the cold air parts are here. Decided on plastic 4 inch DIY tube kit. Although super minimal, supposedly this will help keep IATs down by not heatsoaking like aluminum.

25th327RS

iTrader: (2)

All of my exhaust pieces. Will be true duals with xpipe. 3 inch into xpipe just after trans, and using Venturi reducers, will go to 2.5 after xpipe. Magnaflows at the back with polished rolled edge rectangular tips, that look very similar to stock lt1 Camaro tips.