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LTX and LSXPutting LT1s, LS1s, and their variants into Third Gens is becoming more popular. This board is for those who are doing and have done the swaps so they can discuss all of their technical aspects including repairs, swap info, and performance upgrades.
not much lately. um got the Bravetech auto up/down window switches and hatch release in a awesome red, white and blue colors. went to a gray shift boot instead of the black (wanted to try something different). swapped out my window motors and added some dynamat to the inside of the doors. also while i was in there i swapped out the worn out stock door handles for a set of 4th gen handles (before you say i shoulda got the flush ones, i did buy them but when the car was painted i forgot to take the handles off so when they taped them off they didnt paint behind them that well. plus honestly i installed them and didnt like them). anyways the 4th gen ones are nice and tight and the doors overall sound solid and dont rattle anymore. um on the bigger project side i swapped out my pretty much new rebuilt (advanced auto iroc) gearbox for a Lee's 670 i found new on ebay. along with that i changed the P/S pump to a tuff stuff brand one with a new reservoir and billet pulley from ebay. NOW my steering finally feels nice and tight and doesnt like lock up at slow speeds. oh oh oh also working on a front jack point/ tow bar but thatll be a bit of a process. going to wait til car show season dies down a little so i can pull the bumper off then brace a weld it up nicely. got a list of winter projects that im waiting to do at this point. never ends.
Wow, just went through the whole thread, so many things you did well. Looks like you know hoe to do a fair bit of fabbing. or at least figuring out, and have a good network of others that can fill in the gaps.
A couple minor questions, where did you get your hatch struts (I'm assuming you've had to replace them)? The ones from Rock Auto will hold the glass up no problem, but don't lift it when the hatch gets popped like the old OEMs used to. Also, did you replace the door lock actuators? Mine do not slide over like that, not enough grunt to actually lock the doors, if so, what kind are they?
well went to have my buddies car tuned by my other buddy that tuned my car. his car made 406rwhp 393rwtq. since i was there my buddy wanted to test out the boost controller on the holley. so we decided to mess with a little. unfortunately i ran out of fuel pump but he was saying its probably good we dont add anymore torque considering im on gen3 rods and pistons. anyways we were able to get 2 more lbs of boost. so i ended up making 637rwhp/ 577rwtq. my buddy was happy cause he just wanted to break 400 to the wheel.
As everything is closed up in WNY today due to snow, I had some time to read through the entire thread. Awesome job and provided some inspiration for my 89 Iroc Convertible project!
couple little updates. lets see..... i swapped steering wheels again. this time to the cleetus D shaped wheel. freakin love it. a good buddy gave me some alpine 6x9's and a pioneer 4 channel amp (need to install still). got myself a new sub and box that sits where the spare tire used to be. got a set of klearz lenses but theyre kinda warped so another buddy took them to his plastic guy to see if they can fix them. swapped my rigged stock sending unit assembly for a aeromotive one. found a hell of a deal on a full set of Koni sport shocks/ struts. made a rear seat delete/ compartment thing from a fc rx7 compartment. ordered a new odyssey battery ( which at this moment fedex has lost). if it ever shows up itll be mount where the passenger rear seat was and inside the compartment. ordered new moser axles for my strange diff. ever since i got this diff (used) it had a very slightly bent diff. mostly made the brakes squeak and had a slight vibration. strange was a pain in the *** to deal with so went with moser. havent installed them and hope they fit. oh and the car is in two 2023 calendars.
small updates. ended up getting 2 more sets of Klearz lenses somehow. lol (tinted ones are pretty much sold already). the first set are at a plastic company my buddy knows trying to get the warp out of them and i think hes trying to make replicas or something. the final set (going on my car) were painted n the inside with frost paint and then the grid lines were painted in. been working with bravetech on some custom bluetooth RGB led tail light boards//video at end of post(still waiting for them to show up), at the moment pretty much whole interior is out of the car. Mr. starbuck @starbuck_innovtive_desgins is making 3d printed a/c ducts to work with the vintage air setups. im also cleaning up wiring i just threw in years ago, fixing a/c leaks, adding new firewall insulation, installing more stereo stuff and finishing up my battery relocation to the passenger rear compartment. oh and replacing my dash cause the one thats been in the car was cracked. somehow my front lip cracked so i tried fiberglassing for the first time and actually fixed it. not the best but better than being cracked or having to buy another one. cheap car cover i had that i thought was waterproof actually wasnt and with the crazy weather changes we had a while ago it caused the paint on the hood to get blisters so had it repainted and a new stripe put on. while having the stripe put on i realized the windshield was cracked so had to get a new one.
Heres a short video of some of the features i optioned for. mostly the "show modes"
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I have a question for those with LED bulbs. Do you get radio interference when they are on? I'm using some bulbs (I cannot remember the brand, but they are bulb replacements) with a LED compatible clicker and whenever the turn signals or brakes are on there's quite a lot of static that comes through the radio. I've noticed this happens with my TJ as well. Is this a cheap bulb thing, or something we have to live with when converting to LED bulbs?
Sorry for the hijack, but seemed topic appropriate.
I have a question for those with LED bulbs. Do you get radio interference when they are on? I'm using some bulbs (I cannot remember the brand, but they are bulb replacements) with a LED compatible clicker and whenever the turn signals or brakes are on there's quite a lot of static that comes through the radio. I've noticed this happens with my TJ as well. Is this a cheap bulb thing, or something we have to live with when converting to LED bulbs?
Sorry for the hijack, but seemed topic appropriate.
honestly i dunno yet. i havent got to drive the car yet with them. everything else was LED before and didnt have any issues though.
I have a question for those with LED bulbs. Do you get radio interference when they are on? I'm using some bulbs (I cannot remember the brand, but they are bulb replacements) with a LED compatible clicker and whenever the turn signals or brakes are on there's quite a lot of static that comes through the radio. I've noticed this happens with my TJ as well. Is this a cheap bulb thing, or something we have to live with when converting to LED bulbs?
Sorry for the hijack, but seemed topic appropriate.
I've experienced similar interference with LED bulbs. It could be due to cheaper bulbs lacking proper shielding. Upgrading to higher-quality LEDs might help. Adding ferrite beads to the wiring could also reduce static.
07-14-2022, 05:43 AM
