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It was a pain in the *** to pull the fender, notice where they placed their “jack stands”. I didn’t need the bumper cover but I did need the front ground effects and wanted the grill, it was cheaper to buy the whole assembly and at least this way it won’t get crushed. Bought the hood hinges just in case the aftermarket pieces I bought give me issues, these were actually still tight.
Now this fender is not factory, but from what I could tell it fit decent. I couldn’t be sure because the door was sagging so bad and wouldn’t even close. For $25 I’m taking my chances.
Yeah, the one with the gears/shifter/ash tray. If its cracked/missing pieces/corners probably not, but i dont mind the broken slider or gear indicator wear
Yeah, the one with the gears/shifter/ash tray. If its cracked/missing pieces/corners probably not, but i dont mind the broken slider or gear indicator wear
Oh I think it was ok in that department. I coulda snagged it lol.
Alright fender and hood are on the car. This fender is way better. I haven’t took the time to really get it aligned perfect but I have faith.
The truck accessories put the alternator pretty high. It can work with the stock hood But I think I’d have to remove a section of the underside to feel comfortable when considering the engine torquing under throttle. Decided to try this bracket for $115
I was originally running a factory 3rd gen alternator but had to switch to the ls truck alternator. I still have to change some wiring to make that work, but there’s plenty of clearance between alternator and hood now.
You mind showing and telling how you have your 2 compressors linked? I never thought of doing that, but I'll get another one to link if it works as good as you say it does.
You mind showing and telling how you have your 2 compressors linked? I never thought of doing that, but I'll get another one to link if it works as good as you say it does.
This is how I have mine set up except I have check valves installed on each side of the T connector. There’s really nothing to it.
I will say I wasn’t running check valves at first but one compressor was acting funny and was getting into the red on the air gauge (I forget psi). Installed check valves and problem solved. If you find a good used medium size compressor for a good deal it’s definitely worth it.
This is how I have mine set up except I have check valves installed on each side of the T connector. There’s really nothing to it.
I will say I wasn’t running check valves at first but one compressor was acting funny and was getting into the red on the air gauge (I forget psi). Installed check valves and problem solved. If you find a good used medium size compressor for a good deal it’s definitely worth it.
Thanks for linking that video, now I know how to get it going.
Came across this place a few miles from my house. There’s so many abandoned classic cars in this town.
From what I’ve been told they’ve been sitting there for years rotting. Someone I know tried to buy one of the cars back in the 90s and the old guy wouldn’t sell anything.
Oh and across the road there’s also a c4 vette, a fox body, and another Chevelle.
Yep. A few miles from my house when you’re at the peak of a small bridge I can catch a glimpse of a red third gen camaro in a backyard, it’s also surrounded by older classic cars but I can’t see enough to tell what they are. I’ve actually stopped at that house twice but no one would come to the door.
^^^this is the worst dent. I think I’m gonna have to get it out as good as I can and then bolt the fenders to the car and make sure the front corner isn’t tweaked upward.
^^^this damage isn’t easy to see but the area in front of the passenger louver has multiple dents.
Derustified the underside of hood. Sandblasted and wire wheeled to metal where necessary. Covered in black epoxy. I’ll have to actually paint this later but it’s rust free now.
I won’t lie. If I would have found a good replacement I would have ditched this hood lol. If I ever do another “big” project like this I’ll be a lot selective on the vehicle and parts condition. This goes back to the issue I was having with the fender though, I can’t find good donor vehicles in my area. Especially not the louvered hoods.
Block sanded the hood. Everything was looking good, until I saw this..
There are 4 spots on the hood that are doing this. I stripped those areas and re primed them and it’s doing the same thing. I’m not sure exactly what the problem is but the products aren’t meshing well for some reason. The only other time I’ve had something like this happen was when I tried to paint over a rattle can primer. I definitely didn’t use any rattle can products on this.
I did use an evercoat glazing putty in these areas but I’ve since removed it and I’m getting the same results. All I know to do and this point is to try again. The rest of the hood is fine, it’s only where I used the glaze.
Wish i could help you there.Did you try a tack cloth or some alcohol.Only thing i can think of is theres some residue left you just cant see.
I used automotive grade wax and grease remover. I don’t think it’s any type of contamination. I stripped the areas and hit them with a very light coat of epoxy. I’m giving it plenty of time then I’ll go over it with another light coat. I think the activators in the primers are the issue.
Also found a big crack in my fender, had to weld that up.
Now the car is kicked out of the shop for side work. Ol’ covid has me not working at the moment so I haven’t been able to do much with it lately. Seeing all these other updates has me itching to though.
And the problems I had with the primer on the hood is fixed. If anyone ever has similar issues, I fixed it by leaving the hood outside in the sun for a couple days. I removed the cracking/lifting and then reprimed the spots and it’s fine. Now I just have to get it back in the shop and finish when I can.
This is a combination of Dynamat, peel n seal, and “diy lizard skin”. Obviously I can’t say for sure how well it truly works yet but as far as panel/sheet metal vibration the difference is huge. Prior to this if you tapped on the trans tunnel or door it had that cheap tin can or drum sound, that is gone, it’s a solid thud now.
If anyone tries a combo like this do not apply the liquid deadener over aluminum back tiles (like dynamat) without scuffing and priming. I did a few test pieces to be sure i could make it stick. The trick is a red scuff pad on the dynamat, then apply epoxy primer, then the liquid deadener/thermal barrier.
Oh and I did not cut an access panel for the fuel pump. I don’t think I told the story on here before but when I first bought the car I dropped the rear end and everything to replace the pump. I dropped the tank and I was staring at carpet . I never would’ve cut the hole but I’m going to patch it either so I just bent some aluminum to cover it.
Last edited by Billgluckman; 11-26-2020 at 05:13 PM.
...when I first bought the car I dropped the rear end and everything to replace the pump. I dropped the tank and I was staring at carpet ...
I'll bet you were pissed off that you didn't pull the carpet back to check before dropping the rear end. Let us know how the DIY Lizardskin works. I did the complete underside of my other car in Lizardskin and it isn't too bad to work with.
I'll bet you were pissed off that you didn't pull the carpet back to check before dropping the rear end. Let us know how the DIY Lizardskin works. I did the complete underside of my other car in Lizardskin and it isn't too bad to work with.
I felt more defeated than pissed. Lol
I will update on the DIY. Has it held up well on the underside? I’m considering doin the inside of my fenders since they’ll be partly visible through the engine bay. Thought it might look better than grey primer and adding a little mass on those thin suckers can’t hurt.
A little more progress..removed the driver (black) fender. Had lots of little surface rust areas. I removed the rust, epoxied, and applied a rubberized undercoating.
I have 3 front bumpers. My factory bumper has way too much of this spiderweb cracking. It was in the bumper it’s self, not paint.
This other bumper didn’t have anywhere near the amount of cracking but had some paint peeling issues so I stripped it and started from scratch. Was able to get the fender and a few other pieces primed too
Block sanded the hood. Everything was looking good, until I saw this..
There are 4 spots on the hood that are doing this. I stripped those areas and re primed them and it’s doing the same thing. I’m not sure exactly what the problem is but the products aren’t meshing well for some reason. The only other time I’ve had something like this happen was when I tried to paint over a rattle can primer. I definitely didn’t use any rattle can products on this.
I did use an evercoat glazing putty in these areas but I’ve since removed it and I’m getting the same results. All I know to do and this point is to try again. The rest of the hood is fine, it’s only where I used the glaze.
I'm a professional painter at a Chrysler dealership body shop. I've seen that before if you use an epoxy primer over filler....it wants to leave "lifting" rings around the filler. I'm not sure what you used for primer...but that could have been the culprit
I'm a professional painter at a Chrysler dealership body shop. I've seen that before if you use an epoxy primer over filler....it wants to leave "lifting" rings around the filler. I'm not sure what you used for primer...but that could have been the culprit
Your project is looking good!
Thanks man. Yep it was epoxy, that’s the only time I’ve had that happen. The only thing I did out of the ordinary was use a glazing putty instead of my regular filler, and I might have used reducer in the epoxy that day...I do remember I was playing around with a smaller gun around that time so it’s possible it could have been the reducer attacking the putty. Either way a good soak outside in the sun and a respray took care of it. Hopefully it doesn’t happen again.
Thanks man. Yep it was epoxy, that’s the only time I’ve had that happen. The only thing I did out of the ordinary was use a glazing putty instead of my regular filler, and I might have used reducer in the epoxy that day...I do remember I was playing around with a smaller gun around that time so it’s possible it could have been the reducer attacking the putty. Either way a good soak outside in the sun and a respray took care of it. Hopefully it doesn’t happen again.
I wondered if that was the case. FWIW, we use epoxy primer only on bare metal spots. Over anywhere that has filler, just a dust for adhesion and then we go over it with regular primer surfacer. Regular primer sands WAAAYYYY better than the epoxy. Actually, epoxy primer isn't really intended to be sanded. You will get better results, and greatly speed up your process with a regular, sandable primer. We use PPG ECP15 surfacer. The stuff is awesome and sands SUPER easy.
Oh yeah I was using surfacer. I’ve always sealed with epoxy then apply surfacer within the top coat window.
I think what you said about dusting/light coats of epoxy over filler is definitely key. I know when I first started I was going too heavy with the epoxy. When I finally got that hood primed with no reaction I did 2 very light coats of epoxy and it worked out.
Id never really done any painting before this project so I’m still in the trial and error phase. I have been getting practice behind the scenes on other vehicles so maybe by the time I’m ready to apply color to this thing I wont screw it up too bad. lol
Oh yeah I was using surfacer. I’ve always sealed with epoxy then apply surfacer within the top coat window.
I think what you said about dusting/light coats of epoxy over filler is definitely key. I know when I first started I was going too heavy with the epoxy. When I finally got that hood primed with no reaction I did 2 very light coats of epoxy and it worked out.
Id never really done any painting before this project so I’m still in the trial and error phase. I have been getting practice behind the scenes on other vehicles so maybe by the time I’m ready to apply color to this thing I wont screw it up too bad. lol
Awesome!
I've been a professional painter for 18 years, and I have had my share of hiccups along the way, too lol. If you ever have any questions that are paint related, feel free to send me a PM. I'd be more than happy to help you out if you need it. I've painted several bikes that have had magazine features, painted a custom truck that made the cover of Fourwheeler magazine, etc. Here's a few examples of my work....
Damn man that’s nice work. I’m not usually a fan of green but that bike is beautiful. I’ve never owned a bike but love the detail in them. I told my wife I’m gonna buy one just pretty it up and stare at it. Lol
When I was younger I always thought of painting as like black magic or something. Once I started practicing on panels I’ve really got into it. Fresh paint is so satisfying. Its definitely one of those things that takes practice to really get the hang of, which sucks because paint is expensive. Lol
So I assume you paint your own vehicles, do you have a booth at home? I flip a lot of vehicles and plan to have a bigger shop built behind my small one in the next few years. This little shop I have may get converted to a budget booth.
Thanks!
The body shop where I work now let's me use the booth for my own projects on nights and weekends. I have a booth in a shop at my Brother's farm, but it's an hour away from where I live so it's not convenient, and I haven't actually painted anything in it for about 9 years.
^^^my biggest issue is trash in clear. Idk where it comes from. Lol
Tiny progress..
Didn’t spend much time on this but they’re better than they were. Epoxy primer after blast, then some cheapo high temp black..not the color I was going for but it’ll work.
Long time since update. Still need to paint rear bumper, spoiler, gfx etc. As always the color doesn’t really show, but I did change the paint to GM victory red.
It’s going to need a little sanding and polishing due to a few trash spots but overall I’m not mad at the results considering I painted it in this dirty shop using a gun I’d never used and clear I’d never used.
Anyone else install one of these hoods with no help? Pretty nerve racking with fresh paint. Hopefully I can get the front bumper on this evening and get the rest of the pieces painted within the next week. After bolting on the hood I’m ready to see this thing together
Damn, that turned out really nice, great work. You gonna leave the door handles black? I think the trim looks better that way than body color.
Ive done the solo hood install 3-4 times using a cable attached to the latch and a couple boxes on the cowl to hold the hood up so I can the bolt the hinges on. I've gotten pretty good at it.
Damn, that turned out really nice, great work. You gonna leave the door handles black? I think the trim looks better that way than body color.
Ive done the solo hood install 3-4 times using a cable attached to the latch and a couple boxes on the cowl to hold the hood up so I can the bolt the hinges on. I've gotten pretty good at it.
Yeah I like contrasting colors. Handles will be black. I think the thing that draws me to these cars are the bright colors with the black louvers and headlight buckets. Something about that just does it for me.
I ended up using an engine hoist to assist installing the hood but it was very sketchy. I hope it’s on to stay.
03-08-2020, 12:02 PM
. I never would’ve cut the hole but I’m going to patch it either so I just bent some aluminum to cover it.
