xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Just recently ordered my Moser 9" bolt in assembly. Got 35 spline axles, a spool, 4.11 gears, 1350 yoke, LT1 camaro disc brakes, aluminum center section with bolt through billet main caps.

Here is a picture of how the center section comes direct from Moser in a plastic tub.


First thing I did was take the housing out of the box, wipe it down with grease and wax remover from any parts store then prime and paint it with chassis black paint. Next you install the carrier studs, by placing the stud through the housing, stacking some washers onto the stud and use a nut to pull the stud through, I bought an extra set of nuts for under a $1 at a hardware store to toss out after pulling the studs through.



Here is a picture after placing the carrier onto the housing and tightening all the 9/16" nuts onto the studs. You can also see the 4 bolts that go through the center section for the main caps due to the bolt through aluminum center. This is also where I mocked up the axles since they are different lengths and learned that the passenger side axle is longer than the drivers side, which matters due to the different offset of the caliper backing plates from LH and RH sides.



Next I had the axle bearings pressed onto the axles. The order of assembly is caliper bracket, then 1/8" shim for the LT1 brakes(LS1 brakes omit this step), then the sealed bearing with O-ring side facing towards axle flange, then the press ring. I dropped it off at a local carquest machine shop, waited 30 minutes and it cost me $15 per side. After getting back home I installed the axles part way and left the bearings out and used clear silicone around the whole bearing surface as the directions called for, I'm guessing the o-ring alone might not be enough so they call for silicone as well just in case.



Next using the t-bolts provided in the bag of bolts I installed the backing plates and tightened down the 9/16" nuts to the t-bolts also installed the lock washers as well. I used loctite blue removable lock-tite to prevent the nuts backing off.



Here is a picture from another angle




Next I bolted up the new rotors, pads, and reused the calipers.


Finally bolting on the torque arm mount with the 1 1/8" bolts onto the housing completes the assembly. Blue lock-tite was also used on these bolts since you don't want them coming loose.



For any other questions/comments/applause just ask. If the mods want to sticky this as well I'm sure this will help others out in the future.

niceroc

iTrader: (2)

im so jealous

IHI

iTrader: (1)

LOL, holy cow Steve, whatcha plan on putting in front of that brute??? Never go wrong overkilling something though

AlkyIROC

Before everyone starts dreaming of having the same thing, tell them what it's worth.

I would have used red loctite instead of the blue on chassis parts.

The diff sure looks nice. Too bad you bolted those old dirty calipers onto it. You could have at least cleaned them up and painted them.

EvilCartman

iTrader: (1)

I wouldn't mind having an aluminum center section

AlkyIROC

Me too. Especially a Moser or Mark Williams one with the bolts that go through the housing. It looks like it will also accept a 10 bolt pinion support.

Did you get that with a Daytona pinion support?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

I used the blue loctite, because this rear might be coming apart shortly for a gear change if needed, if not then I will probably swap over to red loctite. It's just hard to figure out trap rpms and converter slippage with this new setup over the old setup.

The calipers will be painted at a later date, I still have to grind on them to fit my weld pro stars over them, so no sense in painting them or cleaning them up until I'm done getting the LT1 brakes to fit into the 15" welds.

As for what it's worth....well you get charged for every upgrade. hah. From the standard 31 spline upgrade to the 35 spline, 1350 yoke over the 1310 yoke, the better pinion support, the housing ends for GM brakes, the aluminum center over the iron or nodular beefier center section, adding a drain port on the bottom of the housing, etc etc. The "basic" moser 9" package without brakes is around $2200 and the price only goes up from there for the upgrades. This rear end is overkill for this particular motor combo, but I figured if I'm going to drop the cash on this I might as well go all out and just do it all at once. 10 year warranty on axles also. A quick check on moser's website shows that this rear should have cost around $3000 plus shipping to my door, not what I paid but what a typical person would pay.
----------
the next combo either this summer or winter will be TT big ci SBC, or a LS1 engine swap with heads, cam along with the MSD kit to run a carb over the factory FI.

greezemonkey

iTrader: (14)

too nice...

Before painting, it would be a good time to add the mounts for a sway bar or anti roll bar.. (mosers weld in) also a good time to add relocation brackets if desired. Tabs & brackets to secure brake lines / cables are a nice feature often overlooked too.

Do you have access to the fill plug with the torque arm mount installed...even with a marine pump? I don`t.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

For mounts for the sway bar I'll be using HD 3" muffler exhaust clamps as they should bolt right up with no issues. Brake lines will be secured with cable ties, as per the instructions, don't have a welder handy to make up a brake line tab or that could have been a possibility. As for the fill plug with torque arm mount installed, yes I still have a straight shot to the fill plug as it was something I checked when I mocked up the mount the first time. It is just above the lower section of the mount. You can always drill a hole in the back of the housing and add one of those moroso fill plug kits they sell by welding the base to the housing and then screw on the top.

BlueBeast

Very nice I like the bolt though center section.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

thanks, it looks good to me as well. As soon as I get my new torque arm bolts from UMI and the relocation brackets as well I can toss this thing in there, doesn't look like they've shipped yet though Guess there's a wait on them.

Trevor86TA

xpndbl3 (and others), I have looking at the exact same setup (including the LT1 discs) but with a set of 3.89s. My parts guy is telling me that its not a good move to get the Moser 9" without an adjustable torque arm as all the ones he's seen don't give a proper pinion angle. What are you (and any other aftermarket rear end guys) running? Any thoughts?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

i'm running the jegster adjustable torque arm, but do know that on my buddies camaro we shimmed up the trans maybe 1/8" to get the proper pinion angle. I run solid mounts so that isn't an option, but the jegs adjustable is nice in that I don't have to drop the torque arm ever again to pull the trans since it bolts to the tranny tunnel instead. I also am going to tie my 6 point roll bar into the floor where the torque arm plate goes, with the 2 additional points making it a 8 point bar then. So when the torque arm lifts up, it'll lift up on the roll bar, which will push on the tires that much harder.

Trevor86TA

I just assembled and installed my 9" and used this post as a reference. Thanks. Mine setup is very similar:

35 spline axles
Aluminum center section
3.89 Pro Street Gear
Detroit Locker
LT1 disc brake conversion

Actually, the axles are the other way around. I had to get my bearings pressed back off and get the drivers side backing plate on the short axle.

Trevor

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

whoops, a few others have pointed that out as well, guess I flipped them while taking pics but I had the right backing plates pressed on, so I guess it was 50/50. Also this build up is on the exotic performance plus website and is a sticky on Ls1tech.com


PS I re-edited it for the proper length

1bad406

iTrader: (1)

I have the spohn adjustable torque arm with the moser 9". It seems to work really well, but its the only one i've ever used so I have nothing to compare it to. But the car hooks really hard and leaves straight with it for the past 3 years.

Comp788

When I mocked up my 9" in my 82 it was not even close to a correct pinion angle. I went out and ordered a Spohn adj torque arm. It went right into place one I adjusted that correctly. I think that if you run any 9" you need to address the TA issue.

I do not run a moser 9" but I got a currie that has been heavly modified. It has all Strange internals and has all of the good stuff. I opted for a steel center section as I have a few that go in there and can't afford 3 nice aluminum ones. It is bad enough having to buy three MW billet 4130 yokes, pinion supports, sets of gears, posi's, and cases.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

attention *****

5678TA

i just love that aluminum center section.. i had my currie 9 apart yesterday swappin the 3.89's for 4.30's.. only a basic package.. heavy duty stock housing, 31 spline axles, truetrac diff., explorer brakes, long studs.. that motha is firetruckin heavy..

btw, what is that other tube welded on the axle housing?? i know the two closest to the 3rd member is for the TA, what is tha other for?

84TranzAm

iTrader: (2)

The 3 closest to the third member is for the TA, and the brass one on top is for a vent.

84TranzAm

iTrader: (2)

To do this after your rear end is in is just to dip your drill bit into grease just before it goes through and it will pick up any filings you do not want to fall in your rear end. I usually drill a bit ,cool bit off and dip in grease again before I go all the way through. You can see what I am getting at is grease falls off if bit gets to hot. I have the same set up and the fill plug is going to be an issue here as I am running stock torque arm for the time.

Comp788

What no drain plug hole?

This is why thing are supposed to be mocked up. I mocked up my 9" and made sure I could put oil in it. The TA mount on my car was also blocked. i added a fill port on the DS axle tube to have easy filling. I did not have room for a big fill port on the center section. My car is too low for that to clear.

84TranzAm

iTrader: (2)

LOL, I never had to much mock up time I had my girl sitting here graduating and I told her last year I was going to get my car back on the road to drive for her graduation. I was the night before i had to drive her , I dropped the distributor in and did a little fine tuning just to get throught the graduation thing. What we do fo our kids. I guess I could say what we do for the kid still left in us LOL. I was not planning on a rear end swap but with the motor I had built I had too. I will get back to setting things up over the summer.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

the drain plug hole is counter sunk into the middle bottom of the housing from moser.

JesasaurusRex

iTrader: (3)

ya n00b

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

xpndbl3,
did you have to do any clearancing to the trans tunnel on the driver's side to run your moser with the jegster torque arm? it seems that mine is hitting the trans tunnel pretty badly. i'll be taking the torque arm back off tomorrow to for some bfh action, but i'm just wondering if this was something that you had to deal with as well. it's not just the car though, as i just pulled this rear off my dad's car and it was hitting his trans tunnel pretty badly too. this rear is older though, i think we put it in the car in early 02. they might have changed the design of the torque arm mount and moved it closer to stock location.

Comp788

I had to cut out a big section for the TA to clear. I just fabbed something up in the brake at work. My car is lower and the part I made some cutting and welding. Now I have tons of room.

IHI

iTrader: (1)

MW, i had the same issue and cured it with the BFH too. At first i was like WTF, then i realized the amount of money i had in all the same components as you and xpndlb and knew a hammer was gonna be my best freind. Always thought at some point it'd be wise to completely cut the entire rear floor pan out and raise it to make room for mufflers in the effort of ground clerance, as well as making room for the moser 9" tq arm bracket and jegster tq arm....never got around to anything but beating the floor pan to clear the tq arm bracket on the 9" though

5678TA

xpndbl3, do you happen to have the specs on your axles?? i wanna get a 35 spline setup from moser but need the axle specs.. my currie 31 spline stuff is starting to twist.. and i've only been in the 1.6xx's twice..

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

yea the first trip from my house to my buddies shop with it on a trailer did all the clearancing I needed with soft rear springs. But really it only needed 1/2" or so to move over, easily done with the BFH to make it look "nicer"

I'll be cutting holes where the rear seat bottoms go and make a box shape I guess is the best way to describe it for the full size mufflers to tuck up there, as I want this thing QUIET next year. Some neighbor has a hardon for me and has called the cops 17 times for noise issues, from 12pm-4pm during the day. It's really getting old.

Specs? Just call currie/moser/whatever and tell them you'd like to order 35 spline axles and a 35 spline spool. If the rear is stock length then they'll have it in their database what length to cut them too, otherwise you'll have to measure the axles you have now.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

well i'm glad it's not just me then. i'll get this thing up in the air and working correctly tomorrow.

car_fixer

get the bfh and show it who is the boss lol, wonder why its so far over though? i mean all these cars cant be that much different than what it was modeled on right?

IHI

iTrader: (1)

I dunno, might just be the size of everything back there...factory is go part sized parts, going with the 9" and the tq arm mount, etc...is much bigger than what's being replaced, same with aftermarket tq arm..everything was snug factory with small junk on it, now we're installing bigger stronger stuff...no mo room

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

yeah, that's what i'm thinking too. that there was probably room when using the stock torque arm, but put in a bulky tubular aftermarket piece, and there's no more room.

84TranzAm

iTrader: (2)

I did this upgrade last spring ,but never replaced the tourque arm yet. That is on my christmas list. I have read alot of issues with different torque arms. I read somewhere one time about ones that fit and ones that don't and one that I read about that had no issues was spohn adjustable one. I contacted moser about this one time to and that is the one the guy recommended . He said the same thing that people he talked to , did not have as maney issues with this particular one. I am going with thaqt particular one and will let you know over the winter how it goes .

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

the spohn unit interferes with the trans tunnel as well. the car that i pulled this 9" out of has the spohn unit and the trans tunnel was dented on that one from interference as well...

84TranzAm

iTrader: (2)

It could be too like you were saying earlier that there are 2 different style of tourque arm to tranny mounts. I know when I was looking around for a rear end I was looking at just upgrading the disc system to mine. I talked to a guy and he had a set up wich was stock for a reasonable price I was going to buy for the disc brake set up. He informed me he has a different style of tranny tourque arm mount then what I had , so maybe that is what is causing the interference problem. I am going with the tunnel mount with spohn and not the tranny mount style tourque arm. I have not heard of any interference problems with that unit. I should have mentioned that before

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

no the spohn definitely dents the rear floorpan on the torque arm side, I'm positive mw66nova isn't talking about the trans mounted spohn piece.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

no, not the tranny mounted unit. my pops car has a powerglide and is using the spohn conversion kit with crossmember and t/a.

84TranzAm

iTrader: (2)

Is this the one that has the tunnel mount? Did you have any clearance issues any where, if so where? Thanks for any info
----------
xpndbl3 and mw66nova , have you guys lowered your cars any or still running stock height springs? I want to figure this out before I order my christmas gift. I had a hard time convincing the wife on the 12 thousand in mods I did last winter , LOL and I am starting early this one but will only spend a little this year I told her .

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

my cars been lowered an inch or so, I really like the jegs unit that is adjustable on my car over the spohn unit.

mw66nova

iTrader: (13)

mine's pretty low. my jegster unit is non adjustable, and free...so i'm not complaining, lol! the car 60's better than it ever has with this motor...

84TranzAm

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the replies guys , now to just make the final decision on what to use. I have not lowered mine so maybe I will not have any issues hopefully on what I go with .

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

bumping this for the PMs I just received about it.

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

bump for five7kid, pictures fixed

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Well, I appreciate it, but I hope others can benefit from it as well. . .

Iroc Adio

iTrader: (3)

I just got my 40 Spline Axles and 3rd Member from MOSER.

My problem is that the torque arm mount hits the case.

Does anyone make a different style mount that will work with a Spohn Torque Arm?

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

Is that a moser torque arm mount? Doesn't look anything like mine. I had no issues clearing my aluminum center section.

Iroc Adio

iTrader: (3)

its a currie 9".

xpndbl3

iTrader: (5)

My guess is currie will tell you to grind off that rib, I've read about certain center sections not fitting the currie torque arm setup, didn't realize it was that drastic an issue. The moser torque arm setup clears with room to spare, maybe you can swap it out. You and I have the same center it looks like.