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28x12.50s with 15x10 and 6.5bs and another 6 hours of cutting and reshaping compared to 28x10.50s I had before on 5.5bs rims. Looks much much better this way.
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__________________ my car thats never done
"I'd rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6"
First Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '05, Second Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '06, Best Modified Camaro Thirdgenfest '07 , Second Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '08
MFBA March 2008 Featured Calendar Vehicle
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man, i thought i had alot of fender gap...can you lower it at all? congrats on getting them to fit though! any pics of the process you used for cutting/banging?
that's with 10 pounds of air in the drag bag on the pass side and 5 pounds on the drivers side....it raises the rear up a bit maybe 1.5". Haven't figured out how to have air in the bags and not have it raise the car just yet. With no pressure in the bags the rear springs are too soft even though they're WS6 springs.
man, i thought i had alot of fender gap...can you lower it at all?
I was thinking the same thing after looking at the pictures. Even with the tall tires, the back end is sitting too high. I don't think my car sat that high when I had 29.5 x 10.5 slicks on it.
Ditch the air bags and install a good aftermarket anti-roll bar. I already see a rear sway bar which will help but it's not quite the same.
__________________
87 IROC-Z
All engine, no power adders! Bests: 9.348@144.71
I was thinking the same thing after looking at the pictures. Even with the tall tires, the back end is sitting too high. I don't think my car sat that high when I had 29.5 x 10.5 slicks on it.
Ditch the air bags and install a good aftermarket anti-roll bar. I already see a rear sway bar which will help but it's not quite the same.
I think I just need to lower the air bag onto the springs more, either that or the spring cup on the moser rear is too tall IIRC it's 2" whereas the stock one couldn't have been 1/2" at most. Don't want to go anti-roll bar when the car is street driven a lot and I don't want the crappy ride or the associated tabs that the welds break on.
S E X, pure adult, x-rated, make sure the kids are asleep, bought a bootleg dvd at the flea market S E X X X. man awesome car i love it, what size wheels are those and what was involved to get all that meatiness to fit? oh yea did i mention i love it? lol
what size wheels are those and what was involved to get all that meatiness to fit? oh yea did i mention i love it? lol
wheel size and tire size are at the top of the post.
it took 6 more hours of cutting that the 15x10 with 5.5bs and 28x10.50s instead of the 6.5bs and 12.50s now. Don't have a chance to get pics of what all is removed, but the front corner is gone, as is that outer rail, along with the entire bumpstop area and all the ribs behind that as well. Basically kept putting up a 18" pry bar until the entire wheelwell was flat with the spring pocket.
removed a LOT of metal and welded in my own sheet metal out of 16 or 18 guage steel....I don't remember which one I bought. But still have some finish work to do, but mini tubs are coming this winter unless I don't have time, I prefer it to look more professional, even though you'd never see the cuts, one giant tub would look cleaner.
removed the rubber isolators and cut 1/2 coil out of the springs and wrapped the top coil with heater hose, dropped the rear a good 1.4 inch or so, now it looks much more level, hope you guys are happy.
im just scratching my head on how you got the 6.5" wheels to work.... lol that had to be a crapload of work. my 5.5" wheels are TIGHT even after doing tons of work. my 28x10.5 hoosiers are basically the same size as your 28x12.50 dot tires.
anyways, i would ditch the bags and run a bmr drag swaybar. it bolts up like a stock one, only its waay bigger. works great at the track, and works great on the street. (unlike the wolfe)
Car looks great let see a picture after you lowered the car. And on the moser and I am assuming all after market axeles the axel tubes are larger in dia and the spring perchs are moved up a little I had to cut my springs after axel swap also.
im just scratching my head on how you got the 6.5" wheels to work.... lol that had to be a crapload of work. my 5.5" wheels are TIGHT even after doing tons of work. my 28x10.5 hoosiers are basically the same size as your 28x12.50 dot tires.
anyways, i would ditch the bags and run a bmr drag swaybar. it bolts up like a stock one, only its waay bigger. works great at the track, and works great on the street. (unlike the wolfe)
I'm running a 24mm ws6 sway bar, not going to spend money on a 1" sway bar which is 1.4mm thicker. The drag bags work alright for this setup, not sure if there's any other differences between the drag bar and the one I have now imo, any thoughts? always up for learning something new. Also I have at least an inch between the panhard bracket and the tire, as well as 3/4" between the LCAs and the slick, which leads me to believe the 10.5W tire shouldn't have a problem fitting if needed next year. It took 6 hours of cutting and reshaping beyond the cutting and hammering for the 20x10.5 slicks with 5.5bs I ran last year.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ross
Car looks great let see a picture after you lowered the car. And on the moser and I am assuming all after market axeles the axel tubes are larger in dia and the spring perchs are moved up a little I had to cut my springs after axel swap also.
I'll get a pic sometime tomorrow while getting the boat ready for lake michigan salmon thursday Yes the moser housing raised the rear a bit, 1/2 coil is taken off right now, might cut another 1/4 coil or 1/2 coil depending how it settles down. I also removed the rubber isolator, which was only worth 1/4" or so of drop, but at least if I cut too much out of the spring by 1/4 coil I could add the isolators back in.
spohn makes a 1-5/16" drag bar.. $375.. i was thinking about getting one.. my drag bag consists of 4 coil spring spacers.. ghetto, i know.. but it works..
__________________
1984 Trans Am
385sbc(RIP)/t-5/4.30-9"
1.69-7.44-11.65 @ 116
next up-->383 with mild upgrades
Wow, that right there is a show car. Hope it goes as well as it looks eh?
Are those tires DOT legal? I always assumed a tire measured in imperial is a non-street legal slick?
Wow, that right there is a show car. Hope it goes as well as it looks eh?
Are those tires DOT legal? I always assumed a tire measured in imperial is a non-street legal slick?
it moves out alright
Those are DOT approved slicks, although I could still get ticketed in this great state for driving around on them.
Ok, so you can "legally" drive them on the street. Does it drive "really weird" compared to a "normal" tire? Say compared to a BFG 275/60/R15, a normal treaded large car tire?
That's an unbelievably clean underbody. I'd also like to see how the ride height looks now, as well as what the fenderwells look like now.
yea just a stock bottom end 350 nothing fancy, just junk no one else wanted and a parts combo that works together nicely
If you've never driven a car with slicks before at 50mph or so the back end of the car sways back and forth because of the sidewalls being so soft. I run 18 pounds on the street and it just see saws back and forth, you get used to it. Ride height pics will have to wait until tomorrow evening at best, boat is on the driveway along with my suburban and another suburban, so the camaro is stuck in the garage.
Car looks great! I'm running 15x10 with 5.5" of bs on a 28x 10.5 MT ET Drag and I thought it was a snug fit (mild fender work) and I totally agree with you on the drive quality with a car with slicks ... I suggest anyone who puts them on to first drive around the block and some side street before you plan to rip down any main drags or strip (I run 20 in them off track .. they dont sway to bad with them like that but I will never run drag radials ever again ... made the switch and love the results) anywho .. car looks great man!
metal work pics will be out another 2 weeks when i finalize the sheet metal. I'll shoot for a pic of the car out of the garage later tonight when I drive it to a local car cruise, there is still a 2"x6" strip of metal missing on both sides that duct tape is taking care of for now. In the lower front where I had to reshape the metal into more of a box shape.
S E X, pure adult, x-rated, make sure the kids are asleep, bought a bootleg dvd at the flea market S E X X X. man awesome car i love it, what size wheels are those and what was involved to get all that meatiness to fit? oh yea did i mention i love it? lol
mini photo shoot here.....
with the way the suspension is setup the pass. side is 1" taller than the drivers side, so that's why the pass side still looks a little high compared to the drivers side, also I'm parked on a lawn
Arent M/T's 28x12.5 a 10" tire? That was the main reason I originally went to Hoosier, scince their 28x11.5 is the same tread width as M/T 28x12.5 and some races I've run call for a max 11.5" sidewall designation on DOT tires.
__________________ 1998 Trans Am - 1 of 98 Bright Green Metallic
1989 GTA - 10 Second V6 - Featured in GMHTP 5/07
1989 TTA's #124 (cloth/t-top), 850 (leather/t-top), & 884 (cloth/hardtop)
1996 Impala SS - blk/grey
2000 E55 AMG - blk/blk
2005 ML500 Special Edition luxury tow vehicle
28x12.50 ET street has 10" of tread width, but the section width is 12.7" whereas a 10.5W ET drag has a section width of 13.1" so this is why I chose this tire initially as I want to run a W tire next spring, so I wanted to see if this slightly narrower tire would fit without a full on minitub first. Also a 28x10.5 ET drag has a section width of 11.8" so the et street is almost 1" wider in section width.
first the car looks much better now. and i have m/t 28 10.5 15w's under the back of an 87, uh its around here somewhere, on the bumper. it really didnt take much work for the tire, the brakes however were another story, it had wilwood 11.25 inch vented rotors and a 4 piston caliper now it has 10.75 inch rotors with 3 inch offset hats to clear the old forged centerlines that are on the car
i have a set of 17/11 with a 12 inch tire on the back of mine she hooked so good it busted the crush sleeve in the rear and blew the housing new rear new gear.yea at the track weak *** 7.5
28x12.50 ET street has 10" of tread width, but the section width is 12.7" whereas a 10.5W ET drag has a section width of 13.1" so this is why I chose this tire initially as I want to run a W tire next spring, so I wanted to see if this slightly narrower tire would fit without a full on minitub first. Also a 28x10.5 ET drag has a section width of 11.8" so the et street is almost 1" wider in section width.
Right but actual measured tread width of the 28x12.5 ET Street and the 28x10.5 ET Drag is the same 10", and a 10.5W ET Drag is 10.9". Section width as measured goes up the sidewall of a tire and changes due to tire pressure, rim size, and vehicle weight.
B - Tread Width
D - Section Width
Like the 28x10x16 Hoosier slicks I used to run vs the 28x11.5x16 Hoosier QTP DOTs I run now, different numbers but the same size tires when measured.
Either way nice job, how did the car 60ft on the old 28x10.5 slicks?
__________________ 1998 Trans Am - 1 of 98 Bright Green Metallic
1989 GTA - 10 Second V6 - Featured in GMHTP 5/07
1989 TTA's #124 (cloth/t-top), 850 (leather/t-top), & 884 (cloth/hardtop)
1996 Impala SS - blk/grey
2000 E55 AMG - blk/blk
2005 ML500 Special Edition luxury tow vehicle
i never really use slicks i just get a sticky tire that ussauly dont last long like kuhmo'bf gdr;stuff like that my kuhmos would lay rouhgly 12 inch burn marks ile never have another set like that they quit selling that brand why? they hooked so nice
pics and specs are listed......i don't see the issue here?
__________________ my car thats never done
"I'd rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6"
First Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '05, Second Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '06, Best Modified Camaro Thirdgenfest '07 , Second Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '08
MFBA March 2008 Featured Calendar Vehicle
It's not as clear there's about 7 other fdody guys looking at this. Can give a little more info step by step and pics if you can. Or if you have some enter site of more pics.... Like to make sure I have good understanding. And whats needed. I have a new tranny mount and torque , new forged steel 4340 panhard bar and control arms all forged steel. The other support bar will be remove and run 3 dual exhaust over the rear and out the back. If you can rim size back spacing what was completely need to do this... Any more info or pics would help a lot if you can, to jagcompany@aol.com
I was told 28" x 11:50 tires with 15 x 10 rim with 5.5 back space would fit with no work - just bolt on and go but not sure if this is true and if it would fit under the car and not stick out.
Before I start spending more money I just like to make sure I'm on the right track.
The car would run with 7.5 tires 12:30s in the 1/4 run but I guy let me use his tires of his car there size was 12.5 x 15 but the stuck out about 1.5 out of the sides. But man they got man down track low 11s the springs I have are new the rear body go's down just about a 1/2 so they did not rub at all. After few runs with his tires the front wheel right side would come of the ground about 6" to 10" I will be doing some work next year on the frame...
Any help on this if you can. Thanks for posting this to...
It's not as clear there's about 7 other fdody guys looking at this. Can give a little more info step by step and pics if you can. Or if you have some enter site of more pics.... Like to make sure I have good understanding. And whats needed. I have a new tranny mount and torque , new forged steel 4340 panhard bar and control arms all forged steel. The other support bar will be remove and run 3 dual exhaust over the rear and out the back. If you can rim size back spacing what was completely need to do this... Any more info or pics would help a lot if you can, to jagcompany@aol.com
I was told 28" x 11:50 tires with 15 x 10 rim with 5.5 back space would fit with no work - just bolt on and go but not sure if this is true and if it would fit under the car and not stick out.
Before I start spending more money I just like to make sure I'm on the right track.
The car would run with 7.5 tires 12:30s in the 1/4 run but I guy let me use his tires of his car there size was 12.5 x 15 but the stuck out about 1.5 out of the sides. But man they got man down track low 11s the springs I have are new the rear body go's down just about a 1/2 so they did not rub at all. After few runs with his tires the front wheel right side would come of the ground about 6" to 10" I will be doing some work next year on the frame...
Any help on this if you can. Thanks for posting this to...
Not tryign to come off like a *** but i dont understand whats not clear... His first post says his rim and tire size. 15x10 rim with 6.5 BS size of the tire is in the name of thread.... He said he had to remove bump stops and metal around it and do some metal work to the inner fenders. The 5.5 bs kinda stick out and I am not a fan of how they look but some are (just my 2 cents)
that came oout really nice, but i dont understand why u had to do so much work
heres a picture of 28x10.5 slicks on my car, lil bit of hammering on the bumpstops and front of the inner wheel well.other then that i have 1/4 inch thick wheel spacers
should be the same width as ur dot tires
__________________ PRO FAB ENGINEERING - comming soon turbokits, supercharger kits, directport nitrous, cyl head porting, custom intakes, suspension parts ++ much more FORMER 60* V6 FBODY RECORD HOLDER 13.008@104.65@9 psi
that came oout really nice, but i dont understand why u had to do so much work
heres a picture of 28x10.5 slicks on my car, lil bit of hammering on the bumpstops and front of the inner wheel well.other then that i have 1/4 inch thick wheel spacers
should be the same width as ur dot tires
again i posted the section width differences, these tires are almost 1" wider in section width which caused all the issues. Along with no spacer means 3/4" further inside the wheel wells than what you're running along with needing 1/2" or more gap between the tire and body of the car due to the spool pulling the slicks over in a turn.
again i posted the section width differences, these tires are almost 1" wider in section width which caused all the issues. Along with no spacer means 3/4" further inside the wheel wells than what you're running along with needing 1/2" or more gap between the tire and body of the car due to the spool pulling the slicks over in a turn.
a must have missed that post, i also run a spool in mine and yeah it does get really close when turning but ive never had it hit, thats why i have the 1/4 spacers in mine
Wierd though, I got 28x12.5 et streets on a 8" rim with a 4.5 backspace and the only work I had to do to the inner fender was with a hammer. No cutting.
, Second Place Camaro Modified Thirdgenfest '08
Yes the moser housing raised the rear a bit, 1/2 coil is taken off right now, might cut another 1/4 coil or 1/2 coil depending how it settles down. I also removed the rubber isolator, which was only worth 1/4" or so of drop, but at least if I cut too much out of the spring by 1/4 coil I could add the isolators back in. 
Nice ride
