Organized Drag Racing and AutocrossDrag racing and autocross discussions and questions. Techniques, tips, suggestions, and "what will I run?" questions.
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Got them for $60 at a swap meet. Had to have something to mount my slicks on. I cleaned them, polished the lips, and fogged the center black to hide the brake dust.
Damn! Thats a hell of a deal. Did they bolt right up or did you need spacers? I've been wanting to try some early 90s ZR1 wheels (similar to yours). I just might have to shop around.
Damn! Thats a hell of a deal. Did they bolt right up or did you need spacers? I've been wanting to try some early 90s ZR1 wheels (similar to yours). I just might have to shop around.
LOL I'm suprised you guys like them so well. They really are just junker wheels I cleaned up to put slicks on. They are 17x9.5 I am running 1.5" spacers at all 4 corners. My street wheels are 17x9.5 front and 17x11 rear.
Quote:
Originally Posted by racing geek
1meanZ, are you still running the stock springs? That is a ton of suspension travel! What suspension changes have you made?
I am running the stock springs, but the problem in the picture was the Monroe Sensatrac shocks and struts. I put them on before I knew any better and before I started racing the car. They were horribly underdampened as you can see. I've had people tell me it would pull the inside front wheel coming off corners like that, but I have no proof of it. The 383 does make TONS of torque and it is angry coming off corners as you can see. This year I added Koni Yellow shocks and struts and the car is settled way better than it was. It does not yank the front end like the picture shows anymore. The car is faster now because it is more settled and predictable than it was.
I am running the stock springs, but the problem in the picture was the Monroe Sensatrac shocks and struts. I put them on before I knew any better and before I started racing the car. They were horribly underdampened as you can see. I've had people tell me it would pull the inside front wheel coming off corners like that, but I have no proof of it. The 383 does make TONS of torque and it is angry coming off corners as you can see. This year I added Koni Yellow shocks and struts and the car is settled way better than it was. It does not yank the front end like the picture shows anymore. The car is faster now because it is more settled and predictable than it was.
Is that all you changed... shocks? After I put in the Pro-kit and Yellows, my times dropped like a rock (around 6 seconds faster) and I only have the baby 305! I just wish the front springs in the Pro-kit were a little stiffer. My car still dives a lot when I'm hard on the brakes (still stock 10.5" single piston, but LS1 upgrade waiting) and still rolls a lot in fast sweepers. My car is a daily driver but it only sees 3-4k miles a year so I don't mind a harsh ride.
How do you typically rank in your regions Street Modified class, or do you just do it for the fun of it? Last year I was competitive but this year I've been running on a messed up alignment and hard worn out tires so I tend to slide around leaving a cloud of tire smoke in the corners. LOL! I just see it as a chance to practice car control.
How do you typically rank in your regions Street Modified class, or do you just do it for the fun of it?
Yes that's all I changed was the shocks. Koni Yellows are probably the single most important mod you can make if you want your car to handle.
I auto-x only for fun. I'm still getting bugs worked out of the car. As far as being competetive, I have a fairly old used set of slicks, but I can normally run with the 11sec Mitsubishi Lancer EVO 8, a wicked turbo'd Lexus, and many of the other of the SM cars. I am typically mid pack in street mod.
And another third gen that ususally comes out to play with me (and kicking my but).
I would say that the most important thing to make a third gen handle good (or any car), would be is to get some good tires since they are the only part of your car that touches the road.
Oh, I have a question for those of you that autocross without slicks. What would be a competitive tire for the stock 16"x8" wheels? I keep hearing Hankook, but I've read they wear out quick. Any suggestion of not only brand but actual model of tire. I know, I would be better off going up to 17" or 18" wheels but that probably won't happen. I'm on the fence about either buying a snowmobile, building a motorcycle, or upgrading the wheels/tires and exhaust system on my car (so far the motorcycle is winning). Anywho... are there any companys that still make a competitive 245 or 255 16" tire that isn't a slick?
Help is appreciated,
Mike
__________________ Suspension - far from stock, Brakes - far from stock Drivetrain - upgraded, Engine - bolt ons
Very nice collection so far, Zepher I really like the look of your Bird and it looks like it handles pretty damn good too. Really kicks @$$ with the latests wheels too, you must have about a dozen set of wheels lol. Later.
Oh, I have a question for those of you that autocross without slicks. What would be a competitive tire for the stock 16"x8" wheels? I keep hearing Hankook, but I've read they wear out quick. Any suggestion of not only brand but actual model of tire. I know, I would be better off going up to 17" or 18" wheels but that probably won't happen. I'm on the fence about either buying a snowmobile, building a motorcycle, or upgrading the wheels/tires and exhaust system on my car (so far the motorcycle is winning). Anywho... are there any companys that still make a competitive 245 or 255 16" tire that isn't a slick?
Help is appreciated,
Mike
personally, I would see about buying a used set of slicks and mounting them on a spare set of wheels.
I wanted to try slicks and bought 8 tires from a fellow auto-x'er for $175.
They are Kumho V710 265/45/16 and allows the car to corner like it is on rails.
personally, I would see about buying a used set of slicks and mounting them on a spare set of wheels.
I wanted to try slicks and bought 8 tires from a fellow auto-x'er for $175.
They are Kumho V710 265/45/16 and allows the car to corner like it is on rails.
Yeah that would be nice, but then I either have to take parts off my car so I can go back down to the stock class, or get my butt handed to me by the cars in SP/SM.
I do already have a spare set of IROC-Z wheels because this is what I was originally going to do. Then after thinking about it, I didn't want to haul another set of wheels/tires to the track because I would either need a little trailer, risk getting my interior filthy, or have my dad come bright and early to every one of my races to bring the wheels/tires in his truck. Idk, maybe things will change if I can find a deal like you did. Until then, I'll be looking for 17"/18" wheel tire combos for sale.
Yeah that would be nice, but then I either have to take parts off my car so I can go back down to the stock class, or get my butt handed to me by the cars in SP/SM.
I do already have a spare set of IROC-Z wheels because this is what I was originally going to do. Then after thinking about it, I didn't want to haul another set of wheels/tires to the track because I would either need a little trailer, risk getting my interior filthy, or have my dad come bright and early to every one of my races to bring the wheels/tires in his truck. Idk, maybe things will change if I can find a deal like you did. Until then, I'll be looking for 17"/18" wheel tire combos for sale.
What class are you in now? because looking at the setup in your sig, it is already at least an esp setup because of the sfc's (technically sm because spohn's are welded in more than 3 spots per side.)
so unless your region has a sm street tire class, you should be looking for some slicks if you want to be competitive.
you could do as I do, and search ebay where you can find some great deals.
as far as good 16" tires there's slim pickins' for a competitive 245 or 255 street tire, but I would say your best bet might be the goodyear eagle f1 gs-d3. (kumho does make a 265/45/16 ecsta xs but they recommend an 8.5-10" rim) if you have any more questions please pm me.
so
there is no tire that will compete with racing slicks and still wear on the street. If you want to autocross and you want traction, buy slicks, period. If you race on street tires, then you'll get street tire results, and you'll ruin the tires. If you run more than 2 races per year IMO you really should have slicks. I got my rims for 60bux and the tires used for 200, best investment I've made. As for getting the tires to the track here is the solution to that....
I bought a junk boat trailer and cut it up. got a trailer hitch for my car for free from a fellow road racer. Now I can carry fuel, tools, and tires to the track.
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86 IROC, Superram 383, TKO 600, C4 IRS
89 GTA, L98, A4. T56 swap pending
91 TA LB9/T5 (R.I.P)
hey racing geek!!!! i really liked my bfg g-force sport 255. they are not too expensive. and they hold well. i have even heard good things from tuners that use them for track days as well. can u use a dot aproved slick?
__________________ just to be clear, this car is a rendering.
current project:88rs/iroc clone. Pro touring ls1/t56
I hope to make my car an AutoX/Open Track car eventually... it's got a lot of the big goodies on it but it's just not ready for primetime yet. (Koni Yellows, SFC's, ye ole T56... etc) You guys that are roadracing/autoX'ing your cars... do you have road-race oilpans in your cars? I've heard a lot of scary stories about oil starvation during high-G cornering. I'm wondering if my next clutch change should involve a quick engine pull and replacing the pan...
Anyway, pics are always cool, and I saved this pic a while back because I really liked the wheels. Nothing special, they just look like they mean business. I always dig a car that looks like it has a purpose.
Quote:
Originally Posted by RevItUpZ28
Here is a car that was at a local autocross a few months back.
I really REALLY like the wheels on that car too... I know a member here has a set of those I think. But I remember he told me the name of the company but I couldn't find any place to buy a set of them. Oh well. I get so tired of the blinging dubs everyone loves to fit on their cars. I cant stand wheels that dont look functional.
For the same reason the Superbird was outlawed in nascar back in the golden age of muscle cars... they completely dominated the competition!! It really sucks that once something good comes along it is stopped because it is too good. Why people?!!? Why??!? Suck it up, admit defeat, and try and build something better! That's like recognizing Einstein as a genius and then locking him in a room because he is too smart for the rest of the world. It just doesn't make sense! Shouldn't we focus on moving forward, doing new things, and making things better? Why hold back?
Your right, why hold back, if it can go that fast and was allowed in after inspection (or something like that) why did we remove it from competition later on. If anything they should have kept it in, make everyone else get better and wonder why they are not....not remove it from Competition and wonder if they get better.
Thats just sad if the true reason was because it was winning.
__________________
-Wrong Wheel Drive-
The improper displacement of power to the front wheels.
Yes, sad but true! The Superbird met all the requirements other then the ones that must have been in the fine print... "...must lose at least 2 races per season to make other manufacturers feel better about themselves... ...must also win by less then three tenths of a second in at least 2 races so competitors won't want to give up completely..."
Don't you love how major advancements in pretty much anything are often outlawed/ignored to prevent feelings and egos from being hurt. Man I love our society...
I really REALLY like the wheels on that car too... I know a member here has a set of those I think. But I remember he told me the name of the company but I couldn't find any place to buy a set of them. Oh well. I get so tired of the blinging dubs everyone loves to fit on their cars. I cant stand wheels that dont look functional.
They are Revolution Wheels, RFX split rims. They are no longer being made. The only way to get some is to buy split rims from Schmidt in Germany. They look the same but the rim halves are not aluminum but stainless steel. They are much heavier than the real RFX wheels. Looks like that car has the 17" wheel shells, mine are all 16s. I haven't been able to get a set of 17s, they fit on the same center hub as the 16s. There are 2 styles though a 20 and 30 bolt combo.
I really REALLY like the wheels on that car too... I know a member here has a set of those I think. But I remember he told me the name of the company but I couldn't find any place to buy a set of them. Oh well. I get so tired of the blinging dubs everyone loves to fit on their cars. I cant stand wheels that dont look functional.
I spoke with the owner of the car that day and he told me he purchased those wheels originally for another type of car that he autocrossed. I can't remember what kind of car it was or the name of the wheel manufacturer.
Like I said, Revolution wheels, RFX 3 pc ris. Looking at the pics, I'd say he used 17" wheel shells. The Lotus Esprit race cars commonly had those RFX wheels in 17"
just to be clear, this car is a rendering.
