bondue

I'm telling you camaroguy, i'm probably closer to your age than anyone else posting on this thread (23) if you want some extra power for little change go with what i mentioned earlier, sadly since it is carbed you can't go with a chip, I understand you don't want to tear the motor down and spend a lot of oney on other crap, basically all you want is a simple bolt on power adder, the pullys will make a noticable difference. i promise, mostly in second gear than any,

before i put my pullys on first was hellash anyway and second would bark then catch traction and i would take off but after i put the pullys on second gear was just as hellashish as first gear. i think you will enjoy the pully system, you probably just want to show off and burn some rubber.

92Firebug

now that we have given enough facts and information, i think we should let him decide what he wants to do.

RS Reaper

Camaroguy19, you said you going to get a headers and a new Y pipe, why not get an catback exhaust system also? That way that money is moved over to the 350 later and you have a nice sounding car in in the meantime.

89fbirdformula

i have a 3 inch catback, and it restricts my setup... i cant wait to go true duals and spintechs!

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

For my car, I put on Hedman shorties, Hedman 3" Y-pipe, and I cut off the cat and had the shop put on a 3" flowpath Classic Chambered Tube Powerstick muffler, with 3" piping all the way out the back, single outlet. It sounds mean as heck, and the car runs WAY nicer than ever before, with just the exhaust mods.

I LOVE it.

86TA4SALE

Another cheap way is to find out what kind of carb you have and make sure it is running right. It obviously isn't from the factory and may need a rebuild. How is your gas mileage?

~Matt

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I suggest you get some aluminum corvette heads. Your compression ratio wont be high enough to truly kick *** with those, but it should be an improvement anyway. And then when you get a 350 you can move those heads over to it.

And trust me, you WILL end up with a 350 or 383 at some point.

I wish I had built a 383 now, though.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

It's always a good idea to tune your carb and make sure it's tip top.

I'd still do a camshaft that is as big as possible, without having to tweak the valvetrain. More duration with a bit more lift will equal more power. Again, I assume you can find a guy to help you do the swap.

Do a tune up and get NGK iridium plugs.

Do your exhaust like you said you are doing.

You can also upgrade your intake manifold to an Edelbrock Victor Jr. or comparable intake.

Change your gears, if you don't have at least 3.42's (I'd stick to 3.42's as your highest gearing).

Any and all of these things will improve your car's performance, the camshaft being the most expensive.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

He could always mill the Vette heads and then just use the right head gasket for his CR.

I think the 305 Vortecs are better heads for that engine, though they are more costly.

89fbirdformula

now yo uguys are getting into head and cam swaps for this poor guy? LOL

when will the madness end?

if he wants to do burnouts and just get more off the line grunt, like i said, put a 3.73/4.10 gear out back, toss a converter i nthe car..and leave it alone.

you WILL regret investing money into the 305.

89rs305-DP

Hey man im 17 too. I have a 305 rs. I work 2 jobs for that damn car lol. All these guys are talkin bout 350s, and nitrous, i wish i could afford things like that. Im in the same boat as you, im stuck with my 305 for now and just want a little more power.
Id recommend--
Headers, and 3in exhaust all the way back.
Underdrive pulleys.
Open element intake.
Edelbrock carb.
3.42 gears with posi. (i found a rear end like this off an 86 iroc for $150 on craigslist)
A cam would be nice too, but because your new to cars, i wouldnt recommend it. And having someone install it for you would likely be pretty expensive. Not worth it in my opinion
And then some day when you get enough money for a 350, all these parts will transfer right over.

musclecar70sfan

iTrader: (1)

I think a 4.10 would be waaay overkill for his 305, especially with the auto trans. It wouldn't be a very nice cruiser or practical daily driver and first gear will practically be useless with that gearing.

RSFreak

Nitrous is hands down the easiest, cheapest way to make 100+ hp. A stock motor will safely support 20hp per cylinder. So a V8 should be able to take a 100 shot with ease. This is assuming the engine is in decent shape. But if done correctly, nitrous is NOT going to burn up your pistons!

Grumbles

I think a few folks here have lost sight of the fact that the OP is 17 and most likely on a severely limited budget . But it's easy to do that with a steady job and plenty of time to tinker.

I'm not in any way saying anybody that's responded here is attempting to steer you wrong. All of these ideas are good and every one of them will definitely give you a boost either on demand (nitrous) or all the time (heads + cam). However, allow me to bring it into perspective, being 21 and therefore just very recently out of your shoes.

First off, as a 17 year old with your first car, you should steer clear of internal engine modification. It is doable, but there is a lot that can go wrong and it is very expensive, especially the first time around. That is a can of worms best left unopened until you have lots of time (say for instance over summer vacation) and a fair bit of change you can comfortably part with. My 305 ate my entire $1700 tax refund and I never dropped the oil pan. Ask me if I feel stupid now that there is an L31 occupying my engine stand that i got for free.

Let me just say this again. It might be slow(ish), but if it aint broke, don't peel the heads back trying to fix it. When you turn the key, it starts. This may very well not be the case after you've torn it down and put it back together.

Stay away from nitrous as well. A good kit is upwards of $450, takes some technical knowhow, and make no mistake it can break something if it's not set up right. That's not to say it WILL break something, but it is a distinct possibility.

If it were me, knowing what I do now, I would invest my part-time job money in a full exhaust. You can get a set of Flowtech headers for just shy of 100 bucks and a questionably-better-than-factory Flowtech Y pipe for about 120. There are better options out there, but these are by far the cheapest and are more than enough breathing room for a 305 with nothing else done. As a bonus they're made for eachother, which makes installing them a breeze. A cat (if you intend to use one) will cost in the area of 50-80 bucks depending on brand and quality, and a muffler should be about the same. Piping should NEVER cost you more than 200 bucks.

All told you will spend around what you would on a bargain nitrous kit and get fool-proof, garunteed gains and a nice throaty exhaust note to boot. Unlike the nitrous kit, the exhaust can be bought separately over time and will be a one-time expenditure. Bottles need to be filled.

The underdrive pullies are a good idea too. Nice returns for the investment, and they look spiffy under the hood too

Regardless of what you decide, good luck! Sure would have liked to have driven a 3rd gen to school when I was still gettin' my learn on!

89fbirdformula

good advice...

Let me just say this again. It might be slow(ish), but if it aint broke, don't peel the heads back trying to fix it. When you turn the key, it starts. This may very well not be the case after you've torn it down and put it back together.. [/quote] good advice...

bad advice, a MONKEY could hook up a nitrous kit successfully without issue, rumors are just that...RUMORS. nitrous isnt any harder on drivetrain parts then adding cam/heads/ etc etc...power is POWER,just so happens you can make much more power and tq with N20 then you cam the other ways..this is why they make JETS. and a kit can be had for well under 450... www.nitrousoutlet.com...dave will hook you up.


WORSE advice. i wouldnt put a set of flowtech headers on my LAWNMOWER...absolute JUNK, and a waste of money. funny you mention installing them is a breeze...buddy of mine had a set, and needed to be cut/welded to properly mate to each other and seal...

either buy quality headers/exhaust....or stick with stock exhaust.

underdrive pullies are also a waste in my opinion...seen far to many cars with overheating issues, charging issues...

kinda curious what you think gauranteed gains he will get with exhaust...the prices you qouted out at him total roughly 500 dollars in materials/parts ALONE, then of course theres labor to install/weld.

but even at 450 for the N20 kit, thats to much?! hahah, I love the logic of people some times.

89rs305-DP

Not true. Ive had March Performance underdrive pulleys on my 305 for a few months now, and it has NEVER overheated, and i have not noticed a drop in charging, even at idle. I do a lot of city driving too.
It is a noticable difference in power. They claim 10-15 hp.
Heres what i bought... http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MCH-4400/
I got the power and amp series because its recommended for cars with auto transmissions, to keep the charge up

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I agree with everything below, except the Edelbrock carb. I'd get a Demon "Road Demon" 625 cfm carb, over an Edelbrock. I would feel better about paying for a new Demon carb than a new Edelbrock carb. I think they're a better carburetor, for the money.

I've never used underdrive pulleys because I have heard more bad than good about them. But I don't know if they are really worth it or not. I would guess not really. I'd spend that money on a panhard rod or something like that. I'd bet money the rear end on that Camaro is loose.

And I definitely agree that 3.42 gears are the perfect gears...not too steep and not too weak.

I'd only recommend a camshaft if the young man knows someone with the ability to help him swap out the cam. It's no big deal for a guy with some wrenching experience (and it's a great way to learn, too). It just takes some time.

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

A guy can find a great deal on headers on this forum, too. I paid 40 bucks for my Hedman shorties and only 77 bucks for a brand new hedman y pipe.

I'd slither a tad under the car with a sawzall then chop off the old y pipe and cat then yank out the old manifolds and then just bolt up the headers and have a shop do the rest of the exhaust--3" all the way back. And he can get a great muffler from here http://www.classicchambered.com/index.html for only 72 bucks. I got the powerstick muffler, and I love it!! Sounds and flows great. My car runs and sounds WAY better now.

Guys with LS1's and LT1's love the sound of my Camaro. They're always asking me what kind of exhaust I have.

89rs305-DP

I dont care what anyone says, im very pleased with my underdrive pulleys lol.

What does a panhard rod actually do? Can you really tell the difference between a stock one and an aftermarket one when your driving? It doesnt seem like it would be too hard to just strengthen the stock one

New2Chevy

iTrader: (11)

I'm not saying underdrive pulleys are good or bad...I can't say from experience because I've never used them. What difference did you notice using these parts? I'd really like to know, as I may go with underdrive pulleys, for the first time in my 22 years of wrenching on cars, if you can convince me of their benefit(s).

Also, the panhard rod aligns and supports the rear ends on our cars. The factory panhard rod actually isn't a rod. It's a stamped piece that has a valley along its entire length, as you look at it from end to end. Over time, the bushings on this part go bad, and then the rear end feels loose and clunky (you can hear it every time you pull out of your driveway or go over a bump).

Go to the back of your car and lie down and look at the "rod" that goes across the bottom just behind the rear end.....then put your hand on the top face of your tire and shove the tire toward the opposite tire, across the axles. It's probably loose, and you can actually see the play at the end of the panhard rod assembly (you'll hear a clunking sound, too), where it bolts into the rest of the rear wheel assembly. You don't want this part to be loose or weak, as it affects performance in a significant way, especially when you turn or accelerate. A new panhard rod from Spohn is a good way to go. It is a solid steel piece that is much stronger and will also have new bushings or spherical ends. It's a pretty inexpensive upgrade that will tighten up the rear of your car and make it more sturdy.

I would have to say it does in the rear what a strut tower brace or wonderbar does in the front of the car...it ties stuff together and stiffens things up, providing support for a moving vehicle.

89fbirdformula

converter and a gear, ive said it 10 million times.

bang for the buck it comes in second, nitrous obviously comes in first...

4playta

I personally run Nitrous on my Trans Am and just going out and playing with Ricers for one night usually cost me anywhere from $50 to $75 to have my Bottles refilled...NOS is not cheap horse power!!!

That being said I have to also agree that installing a better Cam in a 305 would be pretty much a waste of money!

My wife has a 1984 Camaro 305, 3.23 posi, 700r4, cam, headers, 3" exhaust, Holley 600 Vac sec.

We just bought our kid the same exact car, 3.23 posi, 700r4 and it has a LO5 truck motor in it completely stock except an Edelbrock rpm intake and Holley 650DP on it, even has stock exhaust manifolds...let me tell you that car will walk all over my wifes car from a dead start, rolling start, down the freeway it don't matter, STOCK LO5 TRUCK MOTOR!!!

Best bang for the buck is go to junk yard and find a low mileage 350, add a carb, intake, exhaust, good ignition and call it a day!!!

For right now though start with Gears and a posi...you need that forsure!!!

iroc stangs

here's my thoughts if you havent already decided. i would suggest something like 3.42 posi gears, a good air cleaner, a peformance tune up, magnaflow exhaust, magnaflow cat, and hooker 2055 with their y-pipe, run some seafoam thru the engine, do some minor weight reductions but nothing to much, good tires and if you have the money some light weight rims, if you have a auto an shift kit. i cant think of anything else but these things will defintly help you out all around. the first things i would do would be air cleaner, posi gears, catback and cat, and tune up with seafoam.

Grumbles

It's not bad advice, and a monkey can't do it. I've seen several instances of botched nitrous jobs personally. That's not to say that it's rocket science, but it's not something a novice tinkerer should attempt without ample research.

I never claimed they were the best of the best, however they will net a noticable gain over factory, and are dirt cheap. If he can find a deal on something better, good, but you're delusional if you think keeping the stock lincoln logs is better.

Not to mention you still seem unable to grasp the idea that you are suggesting a 17 year old in High School should fit his daily driver with a spray system. Just mull that one over for a minute. This is all beside the point anyway, as the OP stated he wanted it to be all N/A.

money can be spent here and there on upgrades to the exhaust and other topical bits and pieces, regardless of what he wants to use, flowtech, hedman, magnaflow, whatever. I suggested the cheapest one available that wasn't ebay garbage. My price also included piping and labor btw.

Bottom line: We ALL know nitrous is a great way to go fast on a budget, but that budget is still out of reach for a guy in his first car still going to school. It's also illegal on the street and a teenager in an 80's muscle car is a cop magnet. I am, after all, a cop :]

89rs305-DP

The power difference is smalll, but it was noticable. It was worth it in my opinion. The installation was super easy (a direct bolt on, only 5 bolts lol) and took about 10 mins. You need to buy a smaller belt though. I believe its 1 or 2 in shorter than stock. The pulleys themselves are way lighter than stock, and quite a bit smaller. I think i read somewhere that it slows all the accessories by 25% at idle

VERY TRUE!! Trust me i know from experience

89fbirdformula

of course there are examples of hillrod nitrous jobs, thirdgens in general have a very "white trash" reputation... of course some hillbillys have em, and toss a bootlegged kit on...its unavoidable.

The op in this thread doesnt seem to know what he wants, afterall, he claims he wants N/A....yet posts this question in the power adder forum...

and yes by the way, i would LONG keep the log manifolds before i would ever think of wasting my time and money on a set of flowtech headers, the marginal power gain produced by those craptastic headers, does NOT outweigh there cheap wquality.

Ps, nitrous isnt illegal, even on the street...using it might be...BUT, if you are using nitrous on the street and get caught by the police, the nitrous is the LEAST of your worries.

86TA4SALE

Use the links below for some more reading on building 305s (not necessarily on a budget) and how it should be done. Just throwing on bigger gears and a stall will get you off the line harder but will put the 305 into rpms where it can't breathe even sooner.

Do a full 3 inch exhaust then air intake then gears then stall. The exhaust, gears and stall will carry over for anything you do in the future (maybe not the headers depending on what motor you go to) and if you use this board for information and shop wisely you can do it all for around $1000 without labor. The best part is you don't need to worry about your motor blowing up.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...tions-lg4.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...run-13s-n.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/faq-...5-engines.html

~Matt

RicerEater

iTrader: (2)

Cheap and easy huh
www.craigslist.com search 350 sbc, take the 305 hook a chain on it and drop it off the side of a boat. Retune the carb and good to go.

SBC 350 = $170 - $500 depending on your bargining skills and can tell if the block is solid or not. W/ heads

Rebuild or simple restore of the block $100-$300 on parts.

Granted all the accesorys build up the same and you will need better fuel pump on your block so maybe $30

Where talking stock 350 not aftermarket... Instant perofrmance gains even though the 305 carb will be alittle restrictive but it is a really good way to increase potential and constand performance compared to a 305.
Gen 1 and 2 blocks can be found in abundance sometimes free if someone is making room in the old garage. Try even junk yards. And if your able to remarket your 305 you might even spend way less out of pocket!!!

Azrael91966669

cheap and easy well ... that was my idea when i got my car

catbacks gonna cost 250-400 easy to install
headers 250-500 not easy but not hard to install
high flow cat to match 100-150 easy or sometimes hard depending on the amount of rust you have

and well thats just exhaust

an open element on the carb will help if it dosnt already have one 20 bucks
40 with a k&n super easy

aluminum drive shaft isnt gonna give him anything he can feel
but id recomend one anyway can be had from 75-150 used 4 bolts so pretty easy

a high stall converter runs from 250 -1000 bucks not cheap or easy as you must drop the trans to install

rear end gears 100-250 and not so easy to install and you need the speedo gear for the new gears 15-25 bucks but this will give very noticeible gain on the street but you will need a posi unit aswell so add 150-500 depending on new or used and what you buy

or buy a used rear with the better gears installed even if it isnt posi you will still notice a gain far easier to install then changing the gears and you can also get better brakes i paid 150 for a 10bolt with posi 3.23 gears and pbr rear disc
but average is 50-500 depending all it has


cam swap 250-300 plus springs 100 not easy to install unless you know exactly what you are doing also do timing chain at the same time 20 bucks
intake gaskets 10-25

1.6 roller rockers give a nice gain on stock tbi cams 100-250 not to hard to install other then setting the lash


put it this way install gears posi and roller rockers and you gain a lot compared to what you have currently
add exhaust to that and you will be fine and to boot all of these parts will work just fine with a 350 or larger engine

but the other idea is go to a junk yard and pick out a running 350 since you have a carb its a pretty simple swap really expect to spend anywhere from 150-1000 depending on what you buy


for a someone new to cars a cam swap itsnt that easy
im betting roller rockers would be tough on there own getting the lash right is a pain till you know how to do it

theres not much both cheap and or easy to makeing a car faster if its cheap it wont be easy if its easy it wont be cheap


my car started off as a 305 tbi i should have keep it tbi atlest for the money i spent converting it to tpi but i am happy i did the swap


when i got this car i was 24
1st mod was open element
2nd mod c4 front brakes
3rd mod rear end with disc and 3.23s i should have went 3.42 or 3.73s
4th mod 1.6 rockers
5th exhaust headers to muffler
all of this took me from running a 17.2 to running a 15.7
6mod converting to tpi ran a 15.1
after 4 years i blew the engine got a 90 lb9 for free tossed it in
all the same mods but bigger cam and better heads 14.2

could i have done nothing but "nos" ya and ill bet id run the same times but then id have to spray it constantly

all told ive spent 4500 on this car including buying it for 2000 and almost all my parts where used or i got a very good deal on them

Azrael91966669

i fully agree with this statement i remember driveing a stock 89 305 iroc when i was 17 i would be dead if i had spray i did way to many stupid things with out it

im also pretty sure he posted in the power adder section thinking just that how to add some power ya most of the forum members get what power adders mean

im also pretty sure he wants power at all times on the street so nitrous is out
450 to install plus 30- 50 bucks a week to refill the bottle on top of todays gas prices once again he is 17 still in school most likely his 1st car and daily driver
formy really think hard about the advice your giveing a kid how tempting is it gonna be to push that button infront of his freinds or to show off

it mite be the cheapest way to add power short term but the bottles run out
its illegal to run on the street "read as USE on the street"
why would you want a mod that only works at the track

ive also noticed nitrous likes to spin the tires when you hit that little button that happens on the freeway and he dosnt expect it you have a car out of control on the bottle great idea to give a kid with at best 2 years driving experiance


nitrous is a very very bad idea someone with so little driving experiance
ive seen idiots use it on the highway and sure its a great boost but just think of all that can go wrong at the same time
he has at best 180 hp and hits the button bam instantly 230 50shot 255 75 shot 280 100 shot thats gonna do something bad for him
and not to mention he needs a bunch of extra parts to make it work correctly on a carb

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Something to think about..........
A new Chevy truck with 5.3 (pretty much standard) liter engine makes 315 HP.
Talking about the sad 180HP thirdgen engine with nitrous. Equating that to the truck engine it is like having a 315-180 = 135 shot of nitrous.
Would anyone say if I was 17 and drove a 315HP truck I would have hurt myself?

The sad fact is that the 180HP is just plain underpowered when viewed against modern engines.

89fbirdformula

You're an idiot.

stop watching fast and the furious, and get some real world experience with nitrous.

Azrael91966669

i may be an idiot but its illegal to "use" on any city street or puplic highway

so its got to be the most pointless power adder to have on a daily driver

the 5.3 with 300 hp is also in a vastly heavier truck and there is a power curve not a spike

the point is the kid dosnt need nitrous didnt want nitrous

besides i believe the saying goes "bottles are for babys" well you the rest

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I think the aftermarket companies that make $2000 pr of heads, cams, etc made up all those sayings back in the day. If you add up the cost of all the stuff listed in earlier posts (heads, exhaust, cam, etc) he would be over $2000 in parts for HP that a $300 nitrous kit would make.

Fact is that if you want to go fast power adders are the best bang for the buck. Sure you can do it N/A but it takes 3-100 times or more in $$$.

Suppose he put on all that stuff like heads, cam, exhaust then he will surely lose MPG and idle quality.

Nitrous is not illegal everywhere in the USA. Please post the Federal document stating this if you believe it to be true.

89fbirdformula

I rest my case, you really are an idiot.

ALOT of the things done to these cars is ILLEGAL, who gives a **** really? if you're going to downplay one because of its legality, you need to downplay the rest of the mods mentioned.

Ps, i use nitrous on the street every once in awhile, and guess what...nobody knows!! you need to inform your self with nitrous, and experience it, before you run your mouth.


nitrous doesnt have a power curve? REALLY? like i said previously, stop watching the fast and the furious, the welds on the intake wont blow, and the floorboards wont fall out.


as the the OP wanting to stay N/A...its his problem he posted this in the POWER ADDER forum.

and id love to know what age has to do with anything? when i was 16 i had a mauiblue 89 formula 350 with a procharger, and that was over 10 years ago, bought and paid for myself working at mcdonalds!

i did stupid **** on the roads sometimes, but for the most part was responsible with it, but then again, i was raised well, and taught to do the racing on the track.. i guess i just make the assumption that people are intelligent/responsible human beings...i guess reality just goes to show that the majority of people these days are window licking retards.

and based on YOUR logic, he already has 140 horsepower thats USELESS ON THE STREET! considering it only takes roughly 40hp to propel a car around 3500 pounds at highway speeds around 65mph...i guess all that extra power is just useless right?

You're advocating safety and being smart about things, in that aspect why does he need 50 more hp, when he already has 140ish that he cant/shouldnt be using on public streets...

Based on your opinion, nitrous IS the smarter way to go.

and as far as your bottles are for babies comment...the only people who are salty about nitrous cars, are those who dont have nitrous, or those who just got beat by a nitrous car

karr1988

Both of my Camaros have stock 305s with no mods and I can burn all day if I want to but that isn't cheap either because you have to replace your tires alot.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

It seems to me that this thread really isn't meant for the power adder forum.

Can't you just swap rear tires side - to - side when doing one wheel peels with the stock 305?

karr1988

Although I'm always inside when I do it they both seem to wear the same so I don't think they are one wheel spins.

89fbirdformula

it just makes me laugh at how TGO is supposed to be a "TECHNICAL" forum....

when there is so much misinformation and mindless drivel placed on these forums, and the sad part is, this is how certain things get a bad rep...

like nitrous for example.

You have some DUMBASS movies put out there for all the little kiddies and ricers to watch with such stupid representations of nitrous and racing, i refuse to watch the movies...Then you have some know it all 15 or 16 year old windowlicker who beleives in the BS, and spews it to his friends...

Heaven forbid one of these people actually TRY nitrous...and THEY screw something up and hurt there motor...all of a sudden its because of the nitrous, and nitrous gets its bad rep...all because someone shouldnt have been messing with the stuff in the first place because he had no business using it in the first place...


it irritates me,and im sick of all the BS associated with it, ironic thing is, i know more people who have popped there motors N/A and FI, then with nitrous...myself included..

i have spit headgaskets in almost everyone of my ForcedInduction vehicles, but i have never hurt a single engine on nitrous, and i have sprayed 325 at a bonestock 97 ws6 through 2 stages, my 89formula has seen a 200 shot...


its clearly evident in this thread, those who have ZERO experience with nitrous, but still feel the need to post mindless BS about it...without having ANY realworld experiences.

karr1988

Well I'm embarrassed, you're right it is only one wheel that spins at a time. Can you why this is?

karr1988

I meant: can you TELL ME why this is?

89fbirdformula

You have what is called an OPEN differential..

it will ALWAYS send the power to the wheel with the least frictional resistance.


only way to cure this, is with the install of a Limited slip/posi carrier, or installation of a lunchbox type locker, like a powertrax/aussie locker...

'87IROCZOWNER69

iTrader: (1)

How much more power would a new camshaft add in a 350? Unless you guys have another idea for adding power to my car. But one thing is that I cannot afford to do nitrous nor will I because I have only been driving for 3 months and dont think I can handle instant power but I can handle alot of power.

89fbirdformula

there are so many variables in that question...it cant be answered..

it could be 2 hp, or 200+ hp...

need more details on what you have, and what you want...to give a better idea.

'87IROCZOWNER69

iTrader: (1)

I just have the stock 350 TPI engine from the factory and I was hoping to get 40 or more horsepower and torque out of my engine because if my car is gonna guzzle gas like a 350 with about 280 horse then it is gonna go as fast as a 350 with 280 horse.

Dirteatr717

Rotational weight is a real power killer.. Get a Billet flywheel and aluminum driveshaft and take some weight out of her.. For every 10pounds of weight lost that's 1hp.. Remove 20 pounds of stuff and u got yourself a little more oomph.. Rims and tires are also a place to look at for weight reduction...

-srs-

You seem to be a relatively smart guy but you really need to work on your delivery. Seriously dude, name calling?

89fbirdformula

Ignorance irritates me, never said i was perfect lol.

'87IROCZOWNER69

iTrader: (1)

I just have the stock 350 TPI engine from the factory and Im tired of losing to these new V6 cars that get 30 mpg when I have the V8 that gets 16 mpg. How can I push alot of horse power out of my car? The only thing I wont do is put on nitrous but what else can I do other than that? Also can you name the price of each add on you list.
Thanks

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

cheap+easy+power = N20.

easy+power = supercharger

cheap+power = turbocharger

All else = a different forum