Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Well oil fitting will be towards front of pan closet to a main cap if i get lucky. Not as much oil there lol i get it tho oil will absorb heat. Maybe if i take my time and go slow. Stitch it and let it cool?

project89

iTrader: (1)

ive never had an issue welding on a pan , i wouldnt sweat it to much , what about the timing cover ? would be much easier to get to

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Lol i dont wanna take it off car as well. At that point i would be tempted to cam it or strip accessories off and put on my stewart water pump and really clean everything off. That wasnt to be done this year lol

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

First choice would be to use fp block off plate if block has the hole to oil pan.
Second is do the plate thing. Pan full of oil. Plate will only by about 1.5"x1.5". Slow weld on low setting. Don't want to burn through pan.

You could also just punch a few tiny holes, put RTV on back of plate and screw it on. That is the plan for the LSx if I can't get the MIG spool gun in there. Really don't want to TIG it. Gotta drill a couple of tiny holes for the screws though because cast pan.

Things to keep in mind once you get her up and running.

http://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-ind...urbo-saga.html
"The waste gate was not opening at high boost. I didn't have enough exhaust energy to be bypassing any exhaust, it was taking every molecule of exhaust to reach 16psi (slowly)................"

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/powe...l-vs-cast.html

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I like to put em back more. In front of the end of starter but behind knock sensor. High up on the pan by the mounting bolts, just not directly under a mounting bolt so I can get a socket on the mount bolts.

EDIT: There is also the punch and thread in an NPT fitting, but the hole needs to be made properly. Lightly grind lines in the pan using small wheel to form the hole size by weaking the metal, then use the punch to blow it open.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Already read that thread. I believed he had too big of an exhaust goin to turbo to begin with. He made gains with going 2.5" wrapped. I have 2.25" and likely will wrap it. But as with anything this is an experiment

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

You modifying the stock TPI press reg to get 59 PSI or going after market? Going the no muffler route?
UltraFlo helps a little with sound control.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I think i am just leaving regulator alone for now. Thought about possibly shimming it as i think it comes apart and is just a spring but oh well. I want to get motor back together end of the weekend which wont take to long but i need to paint the tpi yet. Lol might as well

No muffler just dump out the back, 1 ft of 3" if that. Doubt it will be loud. Still got cat on car i will have to gut that

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Punching down the pressure relief valve helps in this regard. The pumps supplied with a Red's double pumper have this done to them. Along with some of the Racetronix pumps.

Looking forward to seeing your car run.

RBob.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I do have the racetronix pump. If i ever need more injector maybe i will get 60's. Leave fp alone and go double 255's again. I'd rather avoid that rabbit hole

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

That is a good plan. At 15PSI with a stock TPI 305 you won't max out (36#/hr @ 43.5psi) injectors. Leave the regulator alone for now. Gives plenty of margin for fuel pump and you already have injector margin.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

If i do keep the car i want to rebuild by spare 305 with new scat rods and hyper pistons, stock crank deal. Stud the mains maybe. Clean up the stock heads, cam it with a single plane efi or stealth ram and really go for some quick boosted times if this remote turbo works. But further i go from stock the less chance i can sell it

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Well f me... These bosch 0280155811 do not fit in tpi rails and manifold. Its either too far into the rail and leaves bottom out of the manifold, or they go too deep into the base and stick out the rails to far.

Time to search for injectors. Such a disappointment

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

deleted

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

They dont have the upper retainer groove

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

deleted

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Not wanting to grind the posts lol i'll see what i can do, i heard the double oring thing but dont see how that helps anything either

project89

iTrader: (1)

contact southbay they have the injector adpaters/spacers

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Decided to try double oring the bottom after seeing this is how southbay sold them in the past. Seemed to work. Think its sealing but wil check tomorrow after i button it back up

Got it painted up

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Purdy!
Did you put two o-rings on the bottom of injectors?
If you go water/alky........I would do 5gph minimum.
Does the block have the hole under the fuel pump plate?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I did use 2 orings. It seems to work but i will be leary. Hoping to fire it tonight to check for leaks. And hope these injectors work lol

Did not check this block yet but my spare 91 lb9 does

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Started car up. Fired up and got temporary feed line on turbo. It spins good! Sounds like a diesel school bus haha

Gotta mount scavenge pump and get wastegate for hot side and then finish the cold side

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Just quick test fire to set timing lol sounds like a school bus lol. Hope some exhaust pipe and gut the cat will help make it sound decent again lol

I gotta reseal the turbo oil feed gasket as it was junk and just temporary. Still gotta complete cold side and do the scavenge system. Figure out where to mount the pump

UltRoadWarrior9

Interesting project! I'm sort of a n00b when it comes to turbos. A few questions about your build... Since it is rear mounted are you loosing the intercooler? And what about the turbo lag?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I will have some form of cooling in the future. Right now its going to have no intercooler. Leaning towards meth kit but ebay air to air would be cheaper

There maybe some lag there may not be. Not sure yet. I honestly dont think it will be too bad. Its a smaller turbine and small diameter pipe. It may take a few min of driving to get exhaust hot before really spooling well but we shall see. If i dont like it i have a fewoptions. I can use .68 housing and or add heat wrap to whole system ypipe back.

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Loving this build. With no muffler and a short out pipe, you are going to hear a lot of the turbine wheel like the diesel trucks with the straight pipes. Gives me the itch to get the rear mount done in the 4th gen. Dang OBD-II PCM and 2-Bar holding it up.

What size cold pipe is that turbo setup for? My vote is the water alky. Quick, easy, less mods to the car. You can also run it with an IC if you put one in later. With both you can get colder than ambient temps into the engine.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I am doing 2.5". Comp is 2.5 out. I ran left over mild steel over axle. I got a 3 ft piece of aluminum for up to the trans cmember. From there i dont know if i want to go under xmember or mod the stock trans member with a hump to allow charge pipe to pass thru. Looks tight between frame and trans itself if i was to go over the cmember.

Gonna get under it to see what my options are. Plan to get up thru engine either up past the oil filter under the echaust manifold down around power steering box then up to throttle body. 3" at throttle body. Weld in new plastic element iat there

Probably no bov for now. Else vsracing 52$ unit lol

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I do the same in terms of IAT and TPI intakes. Leave the stock reliable brass capped IAT in the plenum as a backup and put the exposed tipped IAT into the charge pipe. The only odd part is that if you spray it with water/alky then you don't get a true reading in the charge pipe depending on where you spray it. The water in the plenum pulls more heat so it is actually cooler. If you look at the factory IAT during a long run where it has time to respond then you can see the true affect of the water/alky.

A Bosch CBV would work also. The VWs volvos, etc ran em. Could JY one of those or maybe ebay a used one for cheap.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I ran stock mat in my code 59$ first turbo build and it never changed more than 3 deg on a low 10 second pull on 12-14 psi. They are worthless for reading air

Plastic one works extremely fast

I would spray meth/water in one of two places. If i trunk mount the kit, i would spray right in the charge pipe over the axle. If i use wiper reservoir and most likely i would, then i would spray right in the bottom of the pipe about 2-3 feet away from the throttle body and iat. Iat will be right in front of tb

project89

iTrader: (1)

ebay rfl just be away rfl = really friggen loud
the bov has one moving part and no rubber diaphrams or anything else to break .

the only maitnience needed on the bov is a monthly shot of white lithum greese

u can get them in about any color u want
http://www.ebay.com/itm/ALUMINUM-ADJUSTABLE-BILLET-ANODIZED-TYPE-H-RFL-TURBO-BLOW-OFF-VALVE-BOV-SILVER-/381373250354?hash=item58cb9dfb32&vxp=mtr

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

My buddy doesnt even use one on his 5.3 buick turbo setup. I may go without one for abit to see what happens. Those are good suggestions tho, has to be cheap but functional

project89

iTrader: (1)

u dont need one but its cheap insurance

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Laying the cold side out. Looking to be a straight shot under car to kmember. Ducting under a-arm corner of the kmember for most clearance and then goin up under the power steering pump to throttle

UltRoadWarrior9

Few more questions from a turbo N00B:
1) Are you planning on initially using the stock ECM and reprogramming? If so, what programmer?
2) Are you going to use higher flow injectors? What are the lbs/hr on your current 350?
3) Or, are you just going to start from scratch and see what the engine wants, if so what software tool will you be using?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

These are bosch 36 lb injectors at tpi pressure. I wish they were 42's or even 60's but oh well.

I am using stock 91 ecm and harness just adding 3 bar map sensor in place of the factory one and a plastic element air temp sensor instead of the brass looking factory sensor so i get faster air temp readings. stock one is worthless

I am using moates chip burners and tunerpro rt software. For now it will run on code $59 setup for a v8. I used this on my 401 twin 60mm combo and also the latest 70mm version of my build in 2011-2012. It works well

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

Looks great. Your thread has given me a lil ambition to hack the 4th gen bin to see if I can put in a cheesy 2 bar map hack to the fuel and timing.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Thought you already did something like that to the $8D

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I have it in the $8D and $0D. The OBDII PCMs went with a 32-bit processor vs the 8-bit OBDI stuff. It is like starting over again for the hack. The size of the image went from the $0D size of 64K to 512K (8 times bigger). It discouraged me enough to make hardware that takes in the LSx 24x wheel signal and converts it to a single EST pulse so that I could run the LSx with the $0D code. Not sure which way I want to go, but I am getting more and more curious about the OBDII code.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

I'd run lsx stuff with lsx stuff. Think is better off in the end. If sbc it be lovely to have boosted $8d code but i guess thats essentially what ebl is

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I wrote a more simple boost $8D version last winter based on the the stuff I wrote for the $0D. I was gonna release it but then their was the AUJP vs SAUJP thing. So I decided to make it so that the boost code would patch into any AUJP or derivative. I never got around to writing the C program to patch in the code. Remind me and one night next week I will look at writing that code.
What version of AUJP you going to run?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Car is using a AXXB or AXXN 305 bin right now. Basic 8d adx and xdf. I do have super aujp tho but havent used it. It dont matter to me. Car will be close to test driving in a week or two

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Extended the iat harness and added new pigtail for the diy autotune plastic iat

Did a 3" intake pipe with bung for iat and a support flange to mount to fan shroud to keep pipe from flexing into motor accessory drives

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I am not familiar with the AXXN. The last time I used $8D with the 305 TPI A4 it was AXXF. Sure you don't want the AXXF? As far as I know it was the latest release for your setup. What MAP sensor are you running? GM 2bar or 3bar or something else?

Running a stand alone WBO2 or planning on reporting output via ALDL. If so, which ECM pin are you wired to?

You are running a stock calibration right now?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Nope it is AXXB. Diy autotune gm 3 bar. I will eventually get a wideband and run to stock ecm for code $59 but forget which pin. Need to look at my notes and old harness.

Right now its moddied bin with my timing table and modded ve table as blms were off when i first got it. Wot tuned by narrow band at the moment.

355tpipickup

iTrader: (5)

Subbed for a rear mount on my truck one day! Lots of good info....can't wait to see how it turns out!

junkcltr

iTrader: (1)

I will do a build for the AXXB. The AXXB and AXXF code portion differs from the AUJP.

UltRoadWarrior9

Now you guys are going down to the bare metal....
I can almost follow everything you guys are saying. Found some great websites, still doing research...
As far as my car, I WAS going to spend ~$350 for a new diff carrier (Eaton Tru Trac), but now (again) seriously considering Craig Moates' PROM emulator. Great support behind that product... Tough to get priorities straight!

A few more questions:
Isn't a MAF sensor preferred over a MAP sensor? Which is best for a turbo application? I know it would require a different ECU. My '86 TPI has a MAF sensor, ECU 1227165. Newer models went with MAP sensors?

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Maf is nice when it can read the air flow but stock tpi maf cant read much hp worth of air. So its preferred to go map sensor. Most boost builds are map based

83 Crossfire TA

iTrader: (2)

it does just bolt togehter, but very little shimming makes a big difference in pressure. I've converted one to be adjustable (take the cap off, pound it flat, drill a hole and epoxy a t-nut in there, drop a washer on top of the spring assembly and ground a little nipple in the front of the bolt I was using to engage that), but honestly, just get the holley adjustable cap and be done with it.

Eh, I've played with issues with jacking up pressure with intank pumps on boosted cars one too many times before. I decided to go another way, got a single Stealth 340 in the tank (the bigger walbros didn't exist when I bought it), and then some 80lb/hr injectors and am running them at 30-35psi (I had it running at ~34 last night). Doing some rough eyballing I should run out of pump and injector at about 800hp at 30psi... MUCH more than I need for my 305 ;-)

What paint/color is that... it looks great in the pics, looks like a blue powdercoat I've been trying to reproduce.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

Its stock paint code. 91 camaro ultra blue