stuart69427

The Haynes Manuel says to mark the drums and wheel studs whn pulling the drum so that you can put it back in the same palce. I just can't see why this is important. Can someone tell me why it is, or even if it is so?

On my old '88 My rear drums squeeked so I replaced the shoes and cleaned/ regreased the 'rub' Spots while I was at it. This fixed the problem for a couple days then came back. I tried regreasing it three more time, but it just keep pushing the 'Multi Purpose Lithum Grees away ans eventual wore bone to bare metal where the side of the shoe would rub up against the back plate of the drum assembly. Could me not marking the drum/studs have anything to do with this sqeeking?

I have to replace the pads on the '94 I just bought for $3500 and wanted to check the shoes while I was at it, but don't want to mess it up! Any help would be appreciated. I tried searching for my answer but came up with no results.

(Have to sell the Z24 becuase full coverage insurance with my record sucks! I save $300 month for liability only plus no payment)

ploegi

marking drums and studs in not necessary. Not sure why they want you to do so. I never have in over 25 years of wrenching.....

TomP

I haven't ever marked them either. Marking the drum/wheel studs preserves the "factory" balancing of the drum to the axleshafts. BUT- that would probably only help you if you had bought the car brand new and never brought it to a shop. If anyone's ever been under those drums, chances are they didn't mark anything either, and just installed the drums any old way. It shouldn't have anything to do with the grease rubbing away...

I wonder how much "vibration" would be felt- it's probably imperceptible (did I spell that right?) anyway.

stuart69427

thats what I thought! Thanks guys! I should get to this in a few... Get to pull out the 'old 1000 Watt Halagen Light Setup while I do a tune-up

After coming from a car with 31k to actually haveing to do something besides an oil change is fun! I forgot all the 'small' problems that seem to pop up, and the engine bay is a lot dirtier

RJR99SS

i knew a master tech who did that. I'd be talking to him while he was doing a brake job and he'd mark the position of the drum before taking it off. "always put it back on this way, very important" he'd say.

I dont think i ever got a straight answer as to why to do it. But he was the best mechanic i ever knew so i didnt sass him.

i Know on newer cars, that use wheel hubs with rotors mounted on them, it actually is important to put the rotor back the way it was. You dont have to mark anything because when you look at the back of the rotor, there will be rust spots that are shaped like the holes in the wheel hub, so you can tell how it goes back on that way. The reason for this is they'll make squeeking noises if you put them on the wrong way. The alternative is to just grind the rust spots off.

TomP

Hell yeah those lamps are amazing!! I'd take mine to bed with me if I could

Thunderboy

I read that on the Haynes manual...AFTER I had removed my drums and painted them with black epoxy... but I have never gotten a straight and true answer... because the axles are balanced, and the drums themselves are balanced (check the weights on the face of the drum), plus you balance the tire/wheel, so what gives?

stuart69427

I didn't think of the balancing going on! confugles me even more!

FYI - I am pretty sure sqeeks are from glazed rotors in combination with semi-metallic pads (they were put on by previous owner right before purchase)

My dad (used car dealer) says not to waste my money that semi-metallic pads, even with a turned rotor will still sqeek and that I would have to buy cheep OEM replacements to get them to stop squeeking that that there just isn't anything wrong with the brakes (looked at them himself when he had it at his lot) and that sqeeking is just an annoyence

Ant tips would be helpfull...