Anyone been to Spohn's site lately??? The front control arms have been released!!
#51
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Car: 1989 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350, ZZ4 equivalent
Transmission: Pro-Built Road Race 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Dana 44
I am sure the design is good and it won't break but I don’t understand the point if it is only a few pounds lighter then stock? I could understand if spohns piece was a lot lighter or if the stock piece is prone to breaking but none of these are true. I don’t think many people are going to shell out $400 (or $500 for chrome moly version) if there really isn’t any benefit at all.
#52
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Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 383TBI Fastburns and 2"TB
Transmission: T56 held up by Spohnstuff
Stock and Spohn strengths
Steve-
How are the a-arms evaluated for strength (Spohn v. stock, or other)?
Is this in terms of peak load (or similar) or first sign of failure or?
What type of test is performed and/or what type of test machine is it run on?
Or are strengths based on each types build materials/techniques and customer feedback.
I have some experience with materials and assembly testing for and am interested to know what type of actual testing is performed.
Nice looking work BTW.
Thanks,
S-D
How are the a-arms evaluated for strength (Spohn v. stock, or other)?
Is this in terms of peak load (or similar) or first sign of failure or?
What type of test is performed and/or what type of test machine is it run on?
Or are strengths based on each types build materials/techniques and customer feedback.
I have some experience with materials and assembly testing for and am interested to know what type of actual testing is performed.
Nice looking work BTW.
Thanks,
S-D
#53
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Car: 82 Z28
Engine: Al LT1 headed LG4 305
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.73 posi with spacer
Damn and i wanted to get the new Tubular K-member of Sphon's. I don't think i am now, its probably gonna be $1000 dollars. For a thousand dollars i could make one myself and still buy aluminum heads.
I bummed now, i wanted that thing.
I guess i could always buy some other tubular k-member and just reinforce it myself.
Being an engineer myself, i might just build one myself, with lots of extra added goodies... for a custom coilover setup.
I bummed now, i wanted that thing.
I guess i could always buy some other tubular k-member and just reinforce it myself.
Being an engineer myself, i might just build one myself, with lots of extra added goodies... for a custom coilover setup.
#54
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Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 355
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 3.89
oh i thought you discontinued the alloy strut mounts. i was gonna say i go down to having 1 picture on the website instead of 2!!!! Steve gimme like 2 or 3 months and ill be buying a arms and coil overs!!!! i need all the weight off for racing!!!
once again kick *** products!!!
Joe Ansuini
once again kick *** products!!!
Joe Ansuini
#55
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by Zerstörer
If you mearly told him that you loved it how did you have a hand in its developement? Maybe I'm not as smart as you are but something doesnt sound right.
If you mearly told him that you loved it how did you have a hand in its developement? Maybe I'm not as smart as you are but something doesnt sound right.
If you were in the business to mass produce such an item, it is always in your best interest to err on the worst case senerio so that this product is safest for everyone that potentially is going to buy it. Thats just good smart business.
For you guys that feel it is not worth the money for such a product over the stock arms, you are not pushing your car hard enough to realise the flex you are recieving from the stock from A-arms- mine is in fact noticalbe especially with the added bracing I have up front. These will help greatly in cornering stabilty. Tubualr A-arms are twice as strong against torsional flex and maintaining steering geomerty in corners than the stock units.
If this sounds like I have my nose up Steves ***- so be it- He makes a very good product and I commend that- I have in fact had an A-arm break on me a few years back on another car- So yes I am critical on who make what and how.
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
I don't think anyone denies his workmanship. If you have seen any of the welds that come off his products, you will see how great they are. To be honest, im just gonna wait for competition to kick the bar up. I don't really even need these but I do want the tubular crossmember, I want the weight saving benefits and the clearance it provides. Most of us own thirdgens because we don't have a lot of money to put into our cars, thats why there is a fabrication board. To be honest, I wish I had a buddy with a pair so I can take it to a machine shop and just duplicate it. Im a cheap ***, but not so cheap as to risk my life. Being cheap doesn't necessisarly mean you half ***. And a product being expensive doesn't automatically make it quality (which is not the case here).
#57
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by vsixtoy
You need to come ride in my car then. I am outhandling new stock Vettes and Porsches, and M3's for that matter also. On a track, I am eating them up around corners after a few laps and everything gets hot.
Look at the 1g thread and you'll see a little photo sequence I posted there.
For the record, I ride invery often, and occationally drive a 2000 Vette with Magnesium wheels. My Camaro out handles it. The Vette I have driven since it was new- it only has about 45,000 miles on it so it is still flawlessly new for the most part in handling.
You need to come ride in my car then. I am outhandling new stock Vettes and Porsches, and M3's for that matter also. On a track, I am eating them up around corners after a few laps and everything gets hot.
Look at the 1g thread and you'll see a little photo sequence I posted there.
For the record, I ride invery often, and occationally drive a 2000 Vette with Magnesium wheels. My Camaro out handles it. The Vette I have driven since it was new- it only has about 45,000 miles on it so it is still flawlessly new for the most part in handling.
I'd take an IRS anyday over a live axle on the street. Getting a 3rd gen to a competative level with the new C6 Z51 or ZO6 will not be an easy or cheap chore, let alone being able to kick it's butt. Heck, the current C5 ZO6s handle pretty well. Perhaps I misunderstood your orginal post. I took it as comparing the whole package (handling, braking, engine, etc..)
#58
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Car: 84 Z..err 92 now
Engine: 402 LS1 Procharged-14 psi-629 hp!
Transmission: T56
On the street a solid axle wont compete with a IRS. But on a track a solid axle will be competitive. Nice thing about a solid axle is the tires are always 90degrees to the pavement.
#59
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by Justins86bird
This is where we'll have to agree to disagree. Wait, I wont agree to that! j/k
I'd take an IRS anyday over a live axle on the street. Getting a 3rd gen to a competative level with the new C6 Z51 or ZO6 will not be an easy or cheap chore, let alone being able to kick it's butt. Heck, the current C5 ZO6s handle pretty well. Perhaps I misunderstood your orginal post. I took it as comparing the whole package (handling, braking, engine, etc..)
This is where we'll have to agree to disagree. Wait, I wont agree to that! j/k
I'd take an IRS anyday over a live axle on the street. Getting a 3rd gen to a competative level with the new C6 Z51 or ZO6 will not be an easy or cheap chore, let alone being able to kick it's butt. Heck, the current C5 ZO6s handle pretty well. Perhaps I misunderstood your orginal post. I took it as comparing the whole package (handling, braking, engine, etc..)
I do out corner and out brake a stock Vette. I am limited on power into my V6 due to local smog laws here in So. Cal, but if that wasn't a problem, I could squeeze enough power into this little V6 do hang with a ZO6 straight line and I still would have less than 30,000k into this car. Last I chacked, A Z06 is going for about 60K. My '68 Vette will eat a Z06 for lunch (and most bikes for that matter.) Back in 1989 at LACR, I ran a 10.89 at 134mph in this car on street tires
#60
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Car: 1991 RS
Engine: 383TBI Fastburns and 2"TB
Transmission: T56 held up by Spohnstuff
Re: Stock and Spohn strengths
Originally posted by swerve-driver
Steve-
How are the a-arms evaluated for strength (Spohn v. stock, or other)?
Is this in terms of peak load (or similar) or first sign of failure or?
What type of test is performed and/or what type of test machine is it run on?
Or are strengths based on each types build materials/techniques and customer feedback.
I have some experience with materials and assembly testing for and am interested to know what type of actual testing is performed.
Nice looking work BTW.
Thanks,
S-D
Steve-
How are the a-arms evaluated for strength (Spohn v. stock, or other)?
Is this in terms of peak load (or similar) or first sign of failure or?
What type of test is performed and/or what type of test machine is it run on?
Or are strengths based on each types build materials/techniques and customer feedback.
I have some experience with materials and assembly testing for and am interested to know what type of actual testing is performed.
Nice looking work BTW.
Thanks,
S-D
? ? ?
#61
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Car: '86 Iroc, '87 Iroc Vert
Engine: 350 TPI, 305 TPI
Transmission: T5 in both
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.45 both LSD's
Oh Please Santi Clause, Please leave those LCA's under my tree!!
Warning, Warning, This is not an Attack!!!
Visxtoy, I don't think I quite buy your story about only having a v6. I thought I saw a picture you posted on here somewhere that showed the front of your engine. If memory serves me right, which it may not, that didn't appear to be a V6. And why post in your stats that your engine is "Top Secret." Lucy u got some splainin' ta do!
Warning, Warning, This is not an Attack!!!
Visxtoy, I don't think I quite buy your story about only having a v6. I thought I saw a picture you posted on here somewhere that showed the front of your engine. If memory serves me right, which it may not, that didn't appear to be a V6. And why post in your stats that your engine is "Top Secret." Lucy u got some splainin' ta do!
#62
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Car: 1992 Camaro
Engine: 350 miniram
Transmission: T-56
It has to be a V6 no doubt about it. He has the support bar running right in front of the motor which is impossible to do on a V8 so its defenitly a V6.
I'm curious will your new coil over kit work with those Billet upper strut mounts? I would think they would be doesn't hurt to ask.
I'm curious will your new coil over kit work with those Billet upper strut mounts? I would think they would be doesn't hurt to ask.
#63
Originally posted by SteveSpohn
It's the old saying that you get what you pay for. If you want cheap parts, you get cheap parts. If you want good parts, they cost more, because they cost more to build. It's pretty much that simple. I list every single build specification of my parts because I'm proud of them.
Steve
It's the old saying that you get what you pay for. If you want cheap parts, you get cheap parts. If you want good parts, they cost more, because they cost more to build. It's pretty much that simple. I list every single build specification of my parts because I'm proud of them.
Steve
im not trying to flame i do own some of your parts on my car and i do plan on buying more but i just disagree with some things said on this board
#65
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by OneBadZ4U
Oh Please Santi Clause, Please leave those LCA's under my tree!!
Warning, Warning, This is not an Attack!!!
Visxtoy, I don't think I quite buy your story about only having a v6. I thought I saw a picture you posted on here somewhere that showed the front of your engine. If memory serves me right, which it may not, that didn't appear to be a V6. And why post in your stats that your engine is "Top Secret." Lucy u got some splainin' ta do!
Oh Please Santi Clause, Please leave those LCA's under my tree!!
Warning, Warning, This is not an Attack!!!
Visxtoy, I don't think I quite buy your story about only having a v6. I thought I saw a picture you posted on here somewhere that showed the front of your engine. If memory serves me right, which it may not, that didn't appear to be a V6. And why post in your stats that your engine is "Top Secret." Lucy u got some splainin' ta do!
#66
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Car: 1988 Formula
Engine: 355
Transmission: 6 speed
Just want to stick my nose in to thank Steve for quality products. I just spent about $1600 with you guys and am extremely happy with everything. Very high quality stuff. Have nothing but praise for you guys. Keep up the good work.
Cory Busey
Cory Busey
#67
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Originally posted by vsixtoy
The "top secret" is just a funny little smerk because even I don't know what the heck I will end up with until its done. I have posted a few pics of it already. It will be a 3.5l 209ci 60*V6 with alot of custom parts- Its being built strictly as a daily driver for street fun- I don't want another monster car that is a pain in the *** to cruise to where ever I need to go. Store, pick the kid up from school, the beach- you know daily stuff.
The "top secret" is just a funny little smerk because even I don't know what the heck I will end up with until its done. I have posted a few pics of it already. It will be a 3.5l 209ci 60*V6 with alot of custom parts- Its being built strictly as a daily driver for street fun- I don't want another monster car that is a pain in the *** to cruise to where ever I need to go. Store, pick the kid up from school, the beach- you know daily stuff.
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looks pretty good, nothing short of what was expected. decent price too, comparable with others. i hope your k-member if/when you come out with one is the same in respects for price and otherwise which will make for a good option.
was it worth the wait... for me personally no as my pa setup has served my purposes for quite some time now but for those like above i can see where it might have been to ease their minds. i'm not really sure where the price is such a concern with some of you as it isn't bad at all. reguardless keep up the good work bringing out new items to help push our 3rdgen options.
what about coilover a arms now?
was it worth the wait... for me personally no as my pa setup has served my purposes for quite some time now but for those like above i can see where it might have been to ease their minds. i'm not really sure where the price is such a concern with some of you as it isn't bad at all. reguardless keep up the good work bringing out new items to help push our 3rdgen options.
what about coilover a arms now?
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Car: '86 Iroc, '87 Iroc Vert
Engine: 350 TPI, 305 TPI
Transmission: T5 in both
Axle/Gears: 3.73, 3.45 both LSD's
And I stand corrected. Where's the smiley with a foot in the mouth??
#71
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Did you notice he is coming out with a rear coilover kit as well? I wonder if it will be anything like the autofab setup I have on my 4th gen.
Last edited by 25THRSS; 12-20-2004 at 12:57 AM.
#75
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I expect the k-member to be in the same price range as the others on the market. The a-arms were a bit more because I had everything CNC'ed, and that costs $$$$$. I also used the best parts I could, I didn't skimp on quality at all.
I'll have details and pics of the front and rear coil over set ups up on the site by the first of the year. We have everything, we're just doing some more testing and making some minor fitment changes before we release them. Everything for the front coil over kit is custom CNC'ed to our specifications from 6061 T-6 tempered aluminum, along with our 3 plate mounting system that really came out nice. I expect pricing on this to be about the same, or only slightly higher then the others.
The rear coil over kit has a reinforcing plate that mounts in to the entire area of the rear upper spring pockets. It will require minor welding to install (the plate), but it eliminates the strength concerns of mounting the coil over there. These rear kits will be offered with a variety of coil over shocks.
Thanks,
Steve
I'll have details and pics of the front and rear coil over set ups up on the site by the first of the year. We have everything, we're just doing some more testing and making some minor fitment changes before we release them. Everything for the front coil over kit is custom CNC'ed to our specifications from 6061 T-6 tempered aluminum, along with our 3 plate mounting system that really came out nice. I expect pricing on this to be about the same, or only slightly higher then the others.
The rear coil over kit has a reinforcing plate that mounts in to the entire area of the rear upper spring pockets. It will require minor welding to install (the plate), but it eliminates the strength concerns of mounting the coil over there. These rear kits will be offered with a variety of coil over shocks.
Thanks,
Steve
#76
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Originally posted by Kandied91z
what about coilover a arms now?
what about coilover a arms now?
We have them:
http://www.spohn.net/category.cfm?categoryid=1181
#77
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Originally posted by 25THRSS
I am very interested in seeing pics of the Spohn coilover setup. When will we be able to see the actual product?
I am very interested in seeing pics of the Spohn coilover setup. When will we be able to see the actual product?
Here's some teaser pics...
Front Kit:
http://www.spohn.net/productimages/735_big.jpg
Rear Kit:
http://www.spohn.net/productimages/736_big.jpg
#78
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For those with a keen eye, on the rear kit the lower shock mounts and the springs aren't shown, we'll update the pic soon. We'll also show installed pics of both kits when they go up on the site.
Also, that rear kit pic shows the QA1 Proma-Star 12 way adjustable shocks. In late January, these will also be available in a double adjustable offering, with 24 adjustments on rebound, and 24 adjustments on compression.
Some of the other shocks we know will work with this kit are the AFCO and Strange single and double adjustable, as well as several Koni and Bilstein single and double adjustables. Some of these can get quite pricey, the Koni DA coil overs are big money, but will be an option for those who want/need them.
Steve
Also, that rear kit pic shows the QA1 Proma-Star 12 way adjustable shocks. In late January, these will also be available in a double adjustable offering, with 24 adjustments on rebound, and 24 adjustments on compression.
Some of the other shocks we know will work with this kit are the AFCO and Strange single and double adjustable, as well as several Koni and Bilstein single and double adjustables. Some of these can get quite pricey, the Koni DA coil overs are big money, but will be an option for those who want/need them.
Steve
Last edited by SteveSpohn; 12-20-2004 at 07:33 PM.
#79
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Car: Trans am
hey steve what are the benefits of using a coilover system on the front . The car isnt a daily driver and it isnt a racer either. DO i really need them or will some good struts do the trick . The reason i ask is b/c i need new struts next year and its gonna cost me about 400 for the struts . What will the benefits be with coilovers. I know i can adjust the height , but thats not a big deal . thanks, jeff.
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Car: 89 Iroc-Z
Engine: 350 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by vsixtoy
You need to come ride in my car then. I am outhandling new stock Vettes and Porsches, and M3's for that matter also. On a track, I am eating them up around corners after a few laps and everything gets hot.
Look at the 1g thread and you'll see a little photo sequence I posted there.
For the record, I ride invery often, and occationally drive a 2000 Vette with Magnesium wheels. My Camaro out handles it. The Vette I have driven since it was new- it only has about 45,000 miles on it so it is still flawlessly new for the most part in handling.
You need to come ride in my car then. I am outhandling new stock Vettes and Porsches, and M3's for that matter also. On a track, I am eating them up around corners after a few laps and everything gets hot.
Look at the 1g thread and you'll see a little photo sequence I posted there.
For the record, I ride invery often, and occationally drive a 2000 Vette with Magnesium wheels. My Camaro out handles it. The Vette I have driven since it was new- it only has about 45,000 miles on it so it is still flawlessly new for the most part in handling.
#82
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
The car is my wife's daily driver. I drive that car about once every two or three weeks. I just don't have time to drive it that much- she loves it. She takes my daughter to school in it every day, and shopping.
Now that Steve has developed a reliable 4 wheel coilover setup for these cars, I will be installing it on this car like I had intentions on doing a coilover setup from the beginning. This is such a fun little car to buss around town in.
I have been in touch with Steve on these coilover front kits and he is tryoing to work out the final bugs on the spring rates and coil lengths. I am looking to go about a 325 or 350 rate 2 5/8"ID coilover spring on this car and maintain its current lowered stance (24 3/4" at fender lip) This car does ride very stiff (800lb springs currently- coilovers are about 42% of the conventional rate)and I am trying to lighten the unsprung weight quite a bit to get it to still handle as well but ride a little smoother. right now at slow speeds, all you feel is the tire bounce as it goes down the road at about 20mph- the suspension hardly moves. I want to slightly lower the rates and lighten the unsprung weight to increase the ride ratio.
Now that Steve has developed a reliable 4 wheel coilover setup for these cars, I will be installing it on this car like I had intentions on doing a coilover setup from the beginning. This is such a fun little car to buss around town in.
I have been in touch with Steve on these coilover front kits and he is tryoing to work out the final bugs on the spring rates and coil lengths. I am looking to go about a 325 or 350 rate 2 5/8"ID coilover spring on this car and maintain its current lowered stance (24 3/4" at fender lip) This car does ride very stiff (800lb springs currently- coilovers are about 42% of the conventional rate)and I am trying to lighten the unsprung weight quite a bit to get it to still handle as well but ride a little smoother. right now at slow speeds, all you feel is the tire bounce as it goes down the road at about 20mph- the suspension hardly moves. I want to slightly lower the rates and lighten the unsprung weight to increase the ride ratio.
Last edited by vsixtoy; 12-20-2004 at 11:25 PM.
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Its stiff, but not harsh. Yes, I have said this many times in the past already (for those weho are going to say I am repeating myself) Its the wife's car that I built because I do have to drive it occationally. Its the only "car" we have that will seat all three of us. The girls don't like going out for dinner in the truck or the ElCamino. I can't stand driving or even owing a stock car so I built the crap out of it. She's on [page 3 of the link below
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/518752/1
I did a little test this weekend on my 3pt STB and it is flexing fore and aft. The strut towers are compessing towards the firewall on hard bumps. I am going to grab the welder from the shop over the holidays and bring it home to box the STB mount pads.
http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/518752/1
I did a little test this weekend on my 3pt STB and it is flexing fore and aft. The strut towers are compessing towards the firewall on hard bumps. I am going to grab the welder from the shop over the holidays and bring it home to box the STB mount pads.
#87
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Car: '87 Cam RS V6
Engine: Top Secret
Transmission: DYT700R4 custom inerts and conv.
Originally posted by Kandied91z
what od are those springs? the look awful small. my old 2.5's rode terrible compared to a 3" of the same rate and height.
either way it's always nice to have options..
what od are those springs? the look awful small. my old 2.5's rode terrible compared to a 3" of the same rate and height.
either way it's always nice to have options..
It is in fact true that the larger diameter coils do ride better than the smaller dia.
SPdfrk- A 4 door? Not till I'm about 70 and have to ride in the back seat. We mostly ride with the In-laws or other familyand friends in their imperialist wagons when we generally go places. I am fortunate I don't need to own one, I have many to borrow if ever needed. In the rare cases that I have to drive my own cars over about 1 1/2 hour trips, I generally fly there and/or just rent a Crown Victoria or a Suburban
Last edited by vsixtoy; 12-21-2004 at 12:56 AM.
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Car: 86 LG4 & 92 TBI Firebird
Engine: The Mighty 305!
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.42
Originally posted by SteveSpohn
Everything for the front coil over kit is custom CNC'ed to our specifications from 6061 T-6 tempered aluminum, along with our 3 plate mounting system that really came out nice. I expect pricing on this to be about the same, or only slightly higher then the others.
The rear coil over kit has a reinforcing plate that mounts in to the entire area of the rear upper spring pockets. It will require minor welding to install (the plate), but it eliminates the strength concerns of mounting the coil over there. These rear kits will be offered with a variety of coil over shocks.
Thanks,
Steve
Everything for the front coil over kit is custom CNC'ed to our specifications from 6061 T-6 tempered aluminum, along with our 3 plate mounting system that really came out nice. I expect pricing on this to be about the same, or only slightly higher then the others.
The rear coil over kit has a reinforcing plate that mounts in to the entire area of the rear upper spring pockets. It will require minor welding to install (the plate), but it eliminates the strength concerns of mounting the coil over there. These rear kits will be offered with a variety of coil over shocks.
Thanks,
Steve
Thanks
#89
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Originally posted by Justins86bird
Is there any welding required on the front kit like the rear or is it a bolt-on only kit?
Thanks
Is there any welding required on the front kit like the rear or is it a bolt-on only kit?
Thanks
Kat
#91
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hey steve what are the benefits of using a coilover system on the front . The car isnt a daily driver and it isnt a racer either. DO i really need them or will some good struts do the trick . The reason i ask is b/c i need new struts next year and its gonna cost me about 400 for the struts . What will the benefits be with coilovers. I know i can adjust the height , but thats not a big deal . thanks, jeff.
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Nolan, Here's a portion of a post I made on another thread- there is some questions and answers there-
"[1)The coil angle mimics the angle of the strut constantly due to it circumferencing one another. This allows for a 100% bind free operation of the coil movement throughout the travel range. There is no change of arch and rate of the top and bottom mount surfaces during travel. Conventional springs bind as suspension angles change- thus changing corner weights due to bind and resricting some freedom of movement
2)It is indeed less unsprung weight. This allows the susension to travel up and back down faster and smoother withut unsettling the chassis as much as the heavier stock setup.
3) ride height can be set at desired geometry level for best suspension angles, no more guessing game trimming coils to desired ride height and resulting in uneven side to side spring rates. coils retain proper frequencies due to retaining engineered design of coil length.
4) corner weights can be set percisely for optimal transition handling ( this is a big advantage)
5) with the rodend/coilover setup, more agressive camber and caster specs can be dialed into the alignment via rodend adjustments prior to setting the strutmounts. ]"
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=270588
"[1)The coil angle mimics the angle of the strut constantly due to it circumferencing one another. This allows for a 100% bind free operation of the coil movement throughout the travel range. There is no change of arch and rate of the top and bottom mount surfaces during travel. Conventional springs bind as suspension angles change- thus changing corner weights due to bind and resricting some freedom of movement
2)It is indeed less unsprung weight. This allows the susension to travel up and back down faster and smoother withut unsettling the chassis as much as the heavier stock setup.
3) ride height can be set at desired geometry level for best suspension angles, no more guessing game trimming coils to desired ride height and resulting in uneven side to side spring rates. coils retain proper frequencies due to retaining engineered design of coil length.
4) corner weights can be set percisely for optimal transition handling ( this is a big advantage)
5) with the rodend/coilover setup, more agressive camber and caster specs can be dialed into the alignment via rodend adjustments prior to setting the strutmounts. ]"
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=270588
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Originally posted by nolanr0413
hey steve what are the benefits of using a coilover system on the front . The car isnt a daily driver and it isnt a racer either. DO i really need them or will some good struts do the trick . The reason i ask is b/c i need new struts next year and its gonna cost me about 400 for the struts . What will the benefits be with coilovers. I know i can adjust the height , but thats not a big deal . thanks, jeff.
hey steve what are the benefits of using a coilover system on the front . The car isnt a daily driver and it isnt a racer either. DO i really need them or will some good struts do the trick . The reason i ask is b/c i need new struts next year and its gonna cost me about 400 for the struts . What will the benefits be with coilovers. I know i can adjust the height , but thats not a big deal . thanks, jeff.
if its not a racer, you'll never notice any of the advantages dean listed above... its always cool to have the new great thing and neat trick parts like 4 corner coil overs...
but people have been having fun with their cars for years with just some good struts and springs. a few months ago, even dean was reccomending that.... and you know how he gushes over how great his car handles... if you can do that good with coil springs and have fun with the car.... dont worry about the new stuff...
of course that comes off the wrong way in this thread and is sure to **** some people off, but its my honest opinion..
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Originally posted by MrDude_1
a few months ago, even dean was reccomending that.... and you know how he gushes over how great his car handles... if you can do that good with coil springs and have fun with the car...
a few months ago, even dean was reccomending that.... and you know how he gushes over how great his car handles... if you can do that good with coil springs and have fun with the car...
Here's more info I have posted on other threads;
"[The only real thing that will improve the ride quality of the car is to either lighten the unsprung weight, or increase the sprung weight. It costs big bucks to lighten the unsprung. Companies like Cadillac rely on a heavier weight chassis to provide the good ride they get. This is done mostly by adding the lush creature comforts into the cars that make them more grand than you average GM family sedan. They are most often the same chassis and suspension for the most part, only the overall sprung weight is increased due to the power everything and lushness inside the passenger areas.
Coilovers due decrease the unsprung weight and give a better ride and performance. Airbags are setup in a manor that give the same priciple as coilovers, but handling carateristics from airbags is less disireable for all out handling- otherwise, you would see racecars with them. Airbags are strictly for load control and people use them for adjusting ride height for looks.
A car with a 5:1 srpung to unsprung ratio with ride and handle much better than a car that is 2:1. Thats 2Lbs sprung weight for every one pound unsprung weight. So for every 5 lbs you drop off the chassis, you should try to at least drop about 1 lb off the moving suspension componants to mantain or better the ride quality and handling characteristics.]"
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More on Dudes quote about my car handling- I have always stated that it pull 1.07g's on a lefthander, it pulled only 1.02 on a righthander.
Here's more info explaining this and explaining the benefits to coilovers-
"[A car with conventional springs can not be adjusted when the springs are installed into the car. Therefore, On any given car you can and usually always do have the corner weights higher on one side than the other- thus making the car able to turn better in one direction that the other. By being able to set your corner weights, you can now control the amount of weight percentage that transfer diagonally when braking and entering a left corner or a right corner. You can set them equal (which is favorable for street driving) or you can set them favorable to lefthand corners in an example such as a road course that has 12 lefthanders and 7 righthanders whith a majority of the lap time focused on the straights and lefthanders. The car may run slightly slower in the righthanders than the competition, however it can make up and dominate the time spent in the greater # of lefthanders thus yeilding faster times.
As a side note, This can be accomplished with comventional springs with the use of shims, but it is a real pain in the but to get everything correct and at the proper ride height without having varing spring rates.]"
Here's more info explaining this and explaining the benefits to coilovers-
"[A car with conventional springs can not be adjusted when the springs are installed into the car. Therefore, On any given car you can and usually always do have the corner weights higher on one side than the other- thus making the car able to turn better in one direction that the other. By being able to set your corner weights, you can now control the amount of weight percentage that transfer diagonally when braking and entering a left corner or a right corner. You can set them equal (which is favorable for street driving) or you can set them favorable to lefthand corners in an example such as a road course that has 12 lefthanders and 7 righthanders whith a majority of the lap time focused on the straights and lefthanders. The car may run slightly slower in the righthanders than the competition, however it can make up and dominate the time spent in the greater # of lefthanders thus yeilding faster times.
As a side note, This can be accomplished with comventional springs with the use of shims, but it is a real pain in the but to get everything correct and at the proper ride height without having varing spring rates.]"
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so would it still be fair to say, that if someone here wanted their car to handle almost as good as yours does now (we know they cant reach there exactly because you have everything tweeked better, have a V6 instead of V8, custom bracing, ect..) they could achieve this with a conventional spring setup?
or should they jump straight to coil overs?
or should they jump straight to coil overs?
#97
STEVE ? ABOUT SPRING RATES
ON YOUR PAGE IT SAYS U CANT USE ANYTHING LESS THAN A 200LBS SPRING FOR DRAG RACING. MY CAR AFTER THE STRANGE BRAKES AND OTHER THINGS WILL PROBABLY BE ABOUT 3000LBS WITH ME IN IT. SO WHAT IM ASKING IS I NEED A SPRING THAT WEIGHT TRANSFERS AND 200LBS SOUNDS A LITTLE STIFF LET ME KNOW WHAT U THINK.
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Originally posted by 25THRSS
Is everyone forgetting Ground Control's adjustable kit?
Is everyone forgetting Ground Control's adjustable kit?
Dude, I want this Camaro to handle even better than it does. If there is a better product out there for me, I will buy it. I want coilovers if possible on this thing. Until you ride in a built V6 car, You will not have an idea why this car handles so much better than a V8 car- the compromise I have is it is so much slower than what a V8 has potential of having. This I don't care about, it will be plenty fast for street use. Handling is safety. The better a car can manuvere and brake, the more capable it is to avoid an accident especially on a wet slick road- my wife and child drive in this car, I like them to be as safe as possible with controlling the vehicle. My wife is a decent driver, this car makes her a very good driver, the suspension gives her confidence that is well deserved.
Last edited by vsixtoy; 12-22-2004 at 12:19 AM.
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very true about handling, but a car is only as good as it's driver. reguardless v8's can't compare to the v6 versions as the v6 definately rides much nicer... are they the same experience? no. but if you care about handling you'll enjoy building a v6 without a doubt.