Sunny RS

how hard is it to replace the centerlink and idler arm? and what tools are involved?

IHI

iTrader: (1)

Very simple to change out. Typical hand tools/sockets and BFH to loosen then up from there existing mount or a pickle fork to help. Should only take you 30 minutes max to get'r done.

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

y not d o the inner and outter tierods while ur at it. and since it will need an alignment anyway, it would kill 2 birds with one stone.

i rebuilt the front suspention on my gf's 91 bird in about 4 hours. that was struts, inner & outter tierods, center link and idler arm.

Sunny RS

whats bfh?

Timz2882

iTrader: (1)

bfh = BIG F'ing HAMMER

Sunny RS

alright so whats involved then with the inner and outer tie rods? I also need to get a grease gun and lube that stuff up right? what kind of lube do i need?

FatherFrank

Before you start, make sure you use a rust penetrant like PB Blaster on all the bolts you will be breaking loose, or you may find the word "breaking" to be painfully accurate.

1. Pull the cotter pin out of the outer tie rod stud on the steering knuckle
2. remove the castle nut, push the tie rod seperator between the tie rod and the knuckle and use the trusty BFH to smack them seperate.
3. since you're taking off the center link as well, the whole outer/inner tie rod/center link assembly should come out together.
4. pay attention to where the idler arm is, and try to replicate that with the new one.

Once it's off the car
1. remove the cotter pin from the inner tie rod stud that goes through the center link
2. remove that castle nut
3. seperate inner tie rod from center link
Now you have two inner tie rod/tie rod adjuster/outer tie rod assemblies
4. Unbolt the two clamps on tie rod adjuster
5. Unscrew tie rods from the tie rod adjuster, COUNTING the number of turns it takes to get them out. This is important for your temporary alignment.

To reinstall
I (and most people here) recommend not buying new stock style tie rod adjusters. They are weak, flex easily, and are a pain in the *** to get a proper alignment on. Spohn makes much better solid adjusters for $49.50 OR you can get his front end rebuild kit for $368.00 which comes with the adjusters.
1. If you use the stock style adjuster, you need to loosen the clamp bolts, thread the tie rods in as many turns in as you turned out, and tighten the clamps to 15 ft/lbs. If you use the spohn adjusters, you need to thread the nuts on the tie rods, twist the tie rod down that certain number of turns, and then tighten the nut against the adjuster. This will give you an approximate alignment so your car isn't all over the road as you drive it to the alignment shop.
2. put inner tie rod studs through holes in center link, and tighten castle nuts to 35 ft/lbs. Make sure you can get a cotter pin through the holes in the studs.
3. Bolt idler arm to car, and then bolt center link/tie rod assembly to idler arm and pitman arm, just like you did with the tie rods. (castle nut and cotter pin 35 ft/lbs)
4. put outer tie rod stud through steering knuckle and tighten castle nut to 35 ft/lbs. Install cotter pin.
5. GREASE ALL FITTINGS and get an alignment done.


You need a grease gun. I use Valvoline SynPower grease on all my chassis fittings.
If I forgot anything big, feel free to add.