T_P_S

Hello, I have not posted here much, but decided that I should get as much input as possible for a project of mine, and this is probably the best place to do so.

I have acquired a 1992 Trans Am GTA in very good, all original, bone stock condition. The car was driven daily for eight years, and maintained about as good as you can with normal routine maintenance. Everything but the filters, fluids, a hose, spark plugs etc. and brake pads and rotors are original on the car and all were replaced with genuine GM parts as it was a dealer salesperson's car, and because of the scarcity of these cars, I have decided that since the car has many well-put miles on it, it is time to restore and replace a few of the cars components, starting with the suspension and chassis. I've decided to keep the car original as possible, whether reusing any parts I can, or replacing them with originals, with a few exceptions perhaps. Since small things like bushings aren't very noticable visually, I decided that if it is worth it, I will try and find the best performing aftermarket ones I can find, as a small upgrade to the suspension thus far.

I have searched this forum for many hours and learned a lot about direct replacement aftermarket brands available. The four biggest concerns now are the front A-arm bushings and the sway bar linkage and bushings, and the ball joints, and the engine mounts. For any of these bushings and parts, I'm looking for quality and longevity, and their performance, price isn't much of a factor, as long as what I am paying for is actually worth it.

For the engine mounts, I have only seen two companies that make them, Energy Suspension, and Prothane, and these are just the inserts. GM has direct replacements, shells and inserts, but they are quite expensive. Are these two companies the only ones that manufacture quality mounts, besides the store brand "white-box" parts at your local auto shop? Is there any difference between Prothane's and Energy Suspensions's?

For Ball joints, I have seen Moog and other Federal Mogul parts used here, but I have seen a "low resistance" ball joint made by Afco. They claim this design allows more control, but has anyone used these? Do you know the life of these, and if they are worth the money? Are there any other direct fit manufactuers for these as well, besides GM and the store brands?

As for the A-arm's bushings, I have seen Prothane, Energy Suspension and Moog mentioned most, and some have swore by new rubber bushings. However, I discovered Global West's Del-A-Lum bushings and was intrigued when looking here. They are expensive though, and was wondering if the claims they make are true, and if they are worht it if you can drop the cash on them? Also, another company called PST makes a polygraphite bushing, but aren't these the same as other graphite lubricated poly bushings? Are there any other companies that manufacture these? Cost isn't much of a factor rather than quality and life of the part remember, as well as how they perform.

The story is the same with Sway bar components (as I am reusing the stock 36mm sway bar, after touching it up a little.) I have seen PST, ES, and Prothane, as well as Moog, make these components, and the story is the same for all of these as with the A-arms. I have read that poly bushing work VERY well here, but few of these companies seem to make 36mm bushings that will fit the original brackets, or aftermarket ones that fit directly. Any other manufactuers, and advice on selection?

A few last things I may ask, as I am reusing old OE parts. The K-member I have seen from these cars appears to be..glued? Please tell me that was just grease pulled off, and that it is indeed a welded piece. Also, has anyone had any problem with the chassis sealants that are applied around the body panels? One of mine appears to be cracking. And the final question is; I am looking for an easy application chassis paint that will stand up to the standard road wear on the old iron and steel parts, as they are being sandblasted and removed. I have been told that powder coating is the only way to go, but I do not have easy access to any place that can perform this. I have been directed to a company called VHT by three different body supply and performance shops in the area, who have told me that is the best thing you can buy in a rattlecan for chassis and suspension components. I was wondering If I could get any input on this, other brands, or confirmation of this, etc.?

Thank you if you read this far...and another thank you for answering any questions I had.

CrazyHawaiian

It sounds like you're on the right track, the companies you've listed seem to be the best known, most used companies. But as far as what bushings to choose, I think it depends on the application and what you (as the driver) prefer. If all the bushings on the car are original and worn, you will probably notice a big difference just by replacing everything with factory replacement rubber bushings. But you need to ask yourself how you plan to use the car. If its going to be for a performance type application and you want the chassis to be stiffer than the factory setup then the performance bushings are the way to go. And even then there are differences depending on material, some some materials act differently than others (poly vs rod ended for example, big difference). For the engine mounts I would consider those two brands to be equal. The shells are not wear items and can be re-used, also consider solid mounts in your selection (depends on application and preferance). For the balljoints I've had experience with PST and Moog, I thought the PST's were a better product but it was an unfair comparison (one car I just changed the balljoint, other car I rebuilt the whole front end), no experience with AFCO sorry but I do know AFCO makes good stuff. For the A-Arms the Del-A-Lum's would be in the same category as rod ended, no flex there at all, all the other poly types will probably perform the same. For the swaybars, just go with poly, get just the bushings and re-use your endlinks unless they are damaged. If you don't change the ride height re-use the stock endlink spacers. The K-member is not glued, its a solid piece, don't worry about that. When I rebuild my suspension I remove all the hard parts (spindles, hubs, a-arms, etc), clean em real good and paint them with high temp engine paint (rattle can), works great and holds up fine. Here is a picture of what it usually looks like when I'm done painting everything and re-assemble. Good luck!!

T_P_S

As far as the application, since this is going to be a total restoration of the car, utlizing whatever original components I can re-use (old a-arms, sway bar, spindles, etc. as they are all no-wear parts save the bushings and bearings). However, when this is done, I do plan to have some safe, legal fun, at a closed road course track not far from here, nothing serious, just for fun. I know that the performance bushings may be a small help in the handling of the car, even utilising the original stamped steel pieces. I am planning to remove the entire front suspension down to the cars frame (K-member included) and sandblast, then prime and coat with a good chassis paint.

So, there are now more known manufactuerers of engine mounts or inserts that are reputable? I didn't think there would be much of a difference between the two inserts, but I'm very open to others experiences or input of any kind.

Thanks for the input of the ball joints, and I'll think more about the Afco ones. Can anyone else input on these, it would be much appreciated.

Sadly, my sway bar endlinks will have to be cut from the a-arms, they have fused with rust, and nothing can dislodge them safely without harming the other components, so they will be useless, all I can reuse is my old bushing brackets. Are there any companies that make a linkage set that is comparable to the stock size, as it appears that from I have read here, some company's end links are designed for lowered vehicles I believe? They are smaller.

Big thanks on the A-arm bushings, but now that I have stated my wants for the car, I would like some more of your input. I have heard that poly A-arm bushings work okay, but have flaws in that application, but rubber flexes of course. Any more input on PST's polygraphite bushings? Are they just graphite impregnated polyurethane like the other companies? Biggest question now is, from what I am hearing, the Del-A-Lum bushings really are great for application I want to use them for? They have no deflextion, and no binding, and instant load transfer as they state? I am wondering how these feel on the car compared to the poly bushings, and what improvement there is, besides no squeaking? Also, if their lifespan is what GW says they are. If these really are a great product with good performance enhancing qualities in a street and Sunday track car, and if they last a while, I may drop the money on them. I would appreciate any more info very much.

I do plan to remove all components, and in the process of doing so now. I am still being pointed to VHT's products to do my undercarriage and suspension parts that are getting sandblasted, what are others views on this product, as it does seem to be popular, but I know that, sometimes, the best things are not as easily found (like GW's Del-A-Lum bushings).

Thank you very much CrazyHawaiian, and anyone else that puts any input in here, I'm still wanting more input before I start going into this project full-throttle.

SR-71

You can't go wrong with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings. Their red ones are pure polyurethane. Their black ones are graphite-impregnated. There's really no difference between PST bushings and the black Energy Suspension bushings. PST's "Polygraphite" is just a brand name for the same product.

You want graphite-impregnated because they will require less maintenance. Plain poly bushings will squeak when the assembly lube dries out. The graphite-impregnated will not.

For your application, I would go with graphite-impregnated polyurethane. You CAN feel the difference in handling between OEM rubber and polyurethane. Flaws? Not that I know of. Maybe if they're not properly installed.

Unless you're really after serious competition, I would steer clear of Del-A-Lum. They really do perform as advertised. But if they are not properly maintained, with regular lubrication, they won't last that long. That said, with proper maintenance, they will last. However, with no cushioning in the bushings, you will feel more road vibration in the car's ride and the steering wheel, and you may get more road noise. You won't get either one with poly. And for what you describe as your needs, Del-A-Lum is probably more than you want to spend.

However you go with bushings, if you use something other than OEM rubber, you'll more than a "small help."

For the sway bar end links, just get a MOOG replacement set. If you do any lowering, just shorten the sleeves accordingly. For some reason, poly bushings for the end links are hard to find without buying a whole sway bar kit.

If you have power steering, especially the high-effort option like mine has, I don't think you'll notice any difference in ball joints. Maybe if you had manual steering.

For motor mounts, use the poly inserts. The shells are no-wear items. Heck, my 400 is mounted on the stock original rubber motor mounts, and it has almost zero rock under full throttle, even with its massive torque. If you get solid motor mounts, you get a solid mount. But you also get noise and vibration in the car.

steve's Z28

Hi. I've did complete front end rebuild on my 91 Camaro Z28, except I forgot to get coil spring insulators. I think that is one of the things that should be taken into account on doing a front end rebuild. So I am going to have get them and install them. Oh, I forgot another thing get new strut mounts, it will make a difference on the suspension ride. You'll notice when you install your struts and tighten it all the way and you detect side-to-side movement in the stut mounts, replace them. Here's what I have on my car, Bilstein struts and rear shocks, Spohn Fabricated Steel Strut Mounts, Global West Del-a-lum bushings, Energy Suspension front and rear sway bar end links in black, ES red poly tie rod end dust covers, new Moog inner and outer tie rod ends from PST, Moog lower ball joints, stock a-arms, ES front and rear sway bar bushings and stock steering center drag link. I would get the universal greasable poly sway bar bushings, you can grease them to eliminate squeaks that can be associated with polyeurathane but otherwise they perform well. I would recommend changing the rear lower control arm bushings and panhard bar bushings to polyeurathane. I still have the stock ones with the rubber bushings but will change them over to the tubular Spohn rear lower control arms and Panhard bar with the poly bushings for street use. PST is a polygraphite empregnated polyeurathane bushing and has a 20 year warranty. Also give these websites a try, this is a degreaser and a rust remover that is nontoxic and wont harm rubber parts or other delicate parts; they www.ultraone.com and www.safestrustremover.com . Maybe you don't have to destroy sway endlinks. You can dip or use a pressure washer to recirculate the rustremover product to remove the rust while the car is on the rack. Global West's website is:www.globalwest.net. Let me know if you have any other questions.

camaronewbie

Napa has very nice ball joints/tie rod ends, and such. They are slightly beefier than stock, but after installed there won't be any visible differences. The parts that start with N are the better ones from Napa.

The endlinks can be gotten at local Autozone or Advance - even the ES ones both black and red. This is true for just about all of the bushings on the car. If by chance they aren't in stock, they can be ordered for next day delivery. It's amazing what Autozone and Advance can get next day - they stock alot of crap on the shelves, but the good stuff can be had at very competitive prices with an overnight order.

I understand the desire to maintain "originality" with the car - but some things are just necessary to change - like shocks, struts, etc. - plain old replacements may "look" more original, but the performance from them will suck.

If the car does not have the steering brace (aka wonderbar) - get one! If want to stay original, get one from the boneyard - this is such an improvement and should have been mandatory on all these cars. And, although not OEM, look seriously at the SFC's as restoration insurance - the unibody flexes tremendously, and these cars all end up with cracks in the body by the rear of the side windows (in the roof) because of the flex.

Keep in mind, just because GM didn't install it, doesn't mean it's not a necessity - let's face it, did anyone from GM expect these el-cheapo teenie bopper cars of the 1980's to be so popular 25 years later?