Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

Ok, so I just picked up this roller. It's a "lost interest" project by the last 2 owners. I picked the car up for a cool $1. It's actually about 85% complete with the exception of an engine/tranny/seats/wiring.
So I pick it up and realize that it's loaded with nice suspension stuff and was wanting some help figuring out just what I have and if you know the approximate value / quality of item, that would be great. I'm not selling any of the parts, just considering putting all of it in my '84. Not playing dumb, I've never bought any of this stuff, so I just don't know.

#1 Rear End.
Was told it was .410 gears, posi with aftermarket axels.
Any idea just from the pic what rear end it is?


#2 Springs...
Was told they are Eibach Springs. If so, can you tell from the part # what the drop will be? Value/quality?



#3 Shocks
KYB GR-2?

Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

All the bars attached to the rearend.
One says Hotchkis, the rest i don't see a name. Anyone? Value/quality?

This one has two holes in it.



And this one.

Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

The front suspension.
I obviously see the poly bushings, but I can't tell if it's all stock sway bars etc.




Wilwood brakes. This set up any good?

Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

And last..
What kind of subframe connectors are these? any good?

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

Ill add what I know (which aint much)

Rear is a 10 Bolt
You can jack the car in the air and spin the rear wheel. Posi = both wheels spin in the same direction. When you spin the wheels, the yoke will spin also. 1 rotation of the tire should be a little more than 4 rotations of the yoke for 4.10 gears.

The hotchkis bar is a panhard bar. Is it adjustable? If he has eibach springs they're either the prokit or the sportline. One lowers more than the other. (i think sport is lower) panhard bar needs to be adjustable to properly lower the vehicle.

Rear control arms are tubular (not stock). Again, to properly lower you vehicle you need LCA relocation brackets.

I have those same shocks in the front. Had em for years now. Love em

Front sway bar looks very pitted and weathered to be aftermarket. Probably stock.

Not sure about the SFC's.

Wilwood calipers are good. Probably 4 pot. They look like the Forged Dynalite set
http://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/Cali...ged%20Dynalite

Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

Hey, thanks for the response. Ill have to look at them again
to see if they are adjustable. I had no idea those brakes cost that
much, holy crap. Will they be ok on a street car that doesn't
get raced?

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

Read through these. These threads are a MUST read for DIY suspension.

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...ing-101-a.html

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/susp...nsion-how.html

FueledSoul

iTrader: (18)

sub frames are jegs, jesters...

Reid Fleming

iTrader: (2)

The only springs I know that are made in Germany are Vogland springs. But they tend to be purple in color.

Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

Perfect! Those are some good threads!

Ok, cool. Thanks. Reminds me that I found a brand new Jegs driveshaft loop in one of the parts bins that came with the car.

Ok, cool. He thought the were Eibach, but he didn't build the suspension in it, the PO before him did. Thanks for all the replies so far

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Well, you got a good deal lol

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

Yep, a good deal!
Check those brakes.
You will probably want a rear sway bar.
Eibach Prokits are black, Sportlines red.
KYB GR2s smooth, but too tame for some.
Mark your drive shaft and count revolutions to turn wheels once... your gear ratio.
The allen support screws on your LPW cover get 5 ft lbs (60 inch pounds) of torque.

lunati397

Its about 2k easy in parts for 1 dollar you are very lucky

Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the good info. My car currently has a rear sway bar
but it's a stock Z28 bar. Nothing special.

I know right. I was trying to figure out exactly what brakes they are.
Some of the similar ones look they are over 2k by themselves.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

Wilwoods are not the super fancy ones- solid discs, and a mid diameter- probably to fit in 16" wheels.. still a nice score.
Your rear sway bar may be fine, just measure both to see they are compatible.
Stuff could be great with the lighter V-6... put with what you have already, NICE.

Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

So I guess I have everything figured out except what brand the rear control arms are and the torque arm?. Anyone recognize them? I think I found the exact brakes on ebay.
Looks just like these, I think...
http://www.ebay.com/itm/290525759648...84.m1423.l2649

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

I would say Jegs. Just looked at both items. Would say the torque arm is pretty sure, and the trailing arms are likely.
Short torque arm is going to affect your handling and braking a bit.
Think about welding some plate on the top of your rear shock mounts- reinforce them to keep top of shocks from pulling out.
You might also think about a Wonder Bar, if you do not have one on your car. Ties the front together. Look to see if your fan gets in the way. I had to go from a Spohn to a UMI when I went to dual factory electric fans. The Spohn bar and the fans wanted the same space.

Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

Ok, cool. Thanks. I don't have a wonder bar. Do you have a pic of yours? I also have a strut tower brace that I kept off my Iroc when I sold it. He didn't want it anyway, so will be adding that to my car too. Keep in mind that I don't race or anything, just cruise, drive to work on nice days, hit a couple local shows a month. Do you think swapping all the items listed above into my 84 will work well for that and work well together. I'm thinking the springs are the ones that lower it 1". Will I need to get everything adjustible for just 1" drop on a street car? Thanks.

Flip 2

iTrader: (1)

They will make the car feel more together. You will notice the difference in how it feels.
I had Pro Kits on my car and a stock length Panhard. That was with thick rear spring isolators. Measure where your rear wheels are as the car sits. Should be same from edge of wheel to edge of fender. If its off center it will show up there. Adjust it that way, too (if you go to an adjustable).
STB brace good.
Wonder bar attaches between front sway bar and car. Phone will not upload pic. Check Spohn, UMI and other websites.

Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

Weather here is going to be in the mid 70's and sunny this weekend. Thinking I might try to get the rear end and subframe connectors out of the car. Might even have time to clean everything up and repaint it. I really don't want the 410 gears though. Won't be too bad once I have my 6 speed, but my 5 speed doesn't have enough overdrive for it. I'm thinking that I'll save a little money and take it to a shop and have the gears swapped for either .342's or .373's. That should be plenty for a street car.

Roostmeyer

iTrader: (3)

The wilwood front brakes are a lightweight drag kit pretty much. May be a little better than stock, but not much. Off memory I think they're 11 or 11.5x.81 rotors. If you want to upgrade them, the adapter plate the bolts the rotor to the hub can be changed out to something with a more common 8 bolts on 7" circle. Then you can run 12" or even larger rotors. Would need new adapter plates and calipers too. That would make it into the JRZ (now Kodiak I think) kit on my car.

Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

I know they are pretty small. The wheels on the car now ar 15" and they fit underneath them fine. Thanks for the info!

Coolwheels84

iTrader: (5)

The weather was so nice today when I got off work I decided to start removing a few things for the suspension swap. Sunny and 73. Can't beat that. Anyway. Goal was to remove the subframe connectors. I supported the whole body on jackstands and unbolted them. Super easy since there's no interior in the way. Had to remove the LCA Frame bolt and the connectors came right out.
At that point I noticed with the body up and the suspension hanging that the Eibach springs were practically falling out of the rear perches. Is that normal? Figured I'd go ahead and remove them. Barely had to compress them with a pry bar to pop them over the lower perches, so they are out.
One real positive thing is that the Hotchkis Panhard bar IS adjustible, so that's good. I won't have to worry about the rearend being off center. Weather is looking nice all weekend, so I'm hoping to pull the rest of the rearend out. If I can, I will also clean everything up and repaint it since everything has overspray on it.