Tbi-MAX

mine would extended crank, you had to give it gas, to start, then idle would drop to 3-400, climb to 6-700, then fluctuate up and down... then might cut off... if you hold the gas for a few seconds, and rev it.. then it finally will idle around 850 rpms...

Mike actually the MPFI is cheap.. the injectors are around 350$ for the 8, and the fuel rails mounted around 300$... thats all.. but i figure i can come out even cheaper than that, once i start looking for the parts, etc..

91chevz71

I have rails and injectors from an 88 TPI 350. wonder if they'll work (30 bucks from a guy in town that thought they were 305 inj's)


wonder what your park position IAC is. might need to open it up a bit

is the odd cranking behavior with the 454 TBI or both

91chevz71

350 bucks for 8 injectors seems steep. LT1 injectors would work great


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LT1-2...spagenameZWDVW


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-Co...spagenameZWDVW

Tbi-MAX

damn good find, seems like this mod is whats next, b4 i start messing with the cam swap..

well i finally got my PSI turned up today, correctly too... thanks guys! the regulator is pretty much about max psi the stock regulator can supply.. if i want or need any higher psi, ill have to switch to a external regulator... the setup is BBC spring, & injectors 85# (91 454)... i got the spring all the way compressed, and then backed it off maybe a fraction.. so it wont have any binding issues.. still hadnt put a guage on it, but at this point a gauge will not help, cause whatever the psi is, its the max the stock regulator can offer me with the BBC spring.. my idle is great, so its not too high, to be tuned for a nice idle.

the engine seems like another animal now.. also when i give it throttle now, it freaking sprays like never before.. at 3/4 to WOT maybe even 1/2 the spray turns from spreaded covering the entire diameter of the bores; >> to pouring almost 1/4-1/2 the diameter of the bores... BUT it looks like a pressure washer spraying the fuel into the manifold.. the more throttle i give it, the more stronger the spray seems to get as well..

the engine sounds lots more aggressive now... I also rewired the TPS & IAC wires, soldered, and gourmet properly. Now I can switch between the SBC & BBC throttle bodies, with plug and play easy.. (im leaving it like this)

tmrw ill be putting back on the BBC tb to see if the lean spot is gone.. which it should be.. ill take it back up to the dyno for Alvin to take a look at it again next week. tune just needs to be tweaked now..

i also removed the "heated riser" coolant hoses, so my air to the TB is no longer heated at all.. the riser is just being used as a spacer now.. this decision was made cause cold air is always better.. i dont think the heated riser helped that much with fuel atomization.. but the weather is never that cold around here anyways..

91chevz71

hey, on that cranking AFR thing. I over corrected and richened up my stuff to the point of drowning. I back it off a bit for crank afr's, but from stock tuning I had to make the crank afr slightly more rich. just wanted to be clear on that

Tbi-MAX

ok, thanks for that info, ill pass it on to Alvin.. but i really want to see how the BBC starts up after i swap it back on tmrw.. should be very easy, with all the plug and play stuff now.. maybe 10mins

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

I believe the 7.4L TBI units used two springs. Maybe someone can confirm. the low pressure (10-15 lbs) and a high pressure used in marine VAFPR and as well the 1995-1996 TBI. So it appears you cannot set the BPC without knowing what fuel pressure you have at any one point in time. alvin needs that valuable info of FP to begin a tune.

Tbi-MAX

ok, well ill get a gauge on it today or tmrw.. the regulator and spring is from a 89 burban, so its the 10-15 # low pressure.. but on the stock 89 regulator, the tach weld had the screw about half way out welded (not fully compressed).. so with my stock AFPR i compressed the spring about all the way.

its just so strange, that he nailed the SBC tb without know the fuel psi either.. i mean literally nailed it.... sorta figure with the BBC tb would be the same..

anyhow here is the update:

with the psi turned up like i said above, pretty much max of what a stock AFPR can do.. the lean spot is gone with the BBC tb back on there.. i dont notice any pause or chugs now while revving in idle.. i took it all the way up to 6k rpm, seamlessly... the BBC tb start up better now with the higher psi as well.. some starts, i still need to give it a little gas.. but then i figured my minimum idle air needed adjustment.. so i did that procedure, and targeted for 550 rpm, and under load, so it wont stall... so i did that, and 3/5 times it will start right up without giving it any gas.. but when i do give it gas now, very little is needed...

i think the IAC tables need little changes, and he can redo the AFR to make things closer to my new psi.. as im sure he tried to make changes to cover my previous lean spot... that along with some more pumpshot changes like Bmonte mentioned before..

if i move the blades fast, it doesnt chug, like before at all..but if i WOT quick, it will sorta chug and catch it self quicker than ever now.. in drive if i WOT it will act like it wants to stall, and just might.. (sometimes) if i take off slow or moderate, all is well..

but i just want to say the difference driving both with the BBC and the SBC tb.. is huge! i have to get the BBC running seamlessly..

im going to tell him this

Tbi-MAX

the idle with the BBC is about 900 rpm, in gear its lower maybe 850 rpm.. this is with everything hooked up and pcm controlling idle.

anyone have a table or chart for the IAC setting for the BBC throttle body IAC sensor? i would like to show Alvin what the tables would look like for this particular IAC...

all help is greatly appreciated; or anyone who is running the BBC IAC or the v6 IAC that can help?

it idles good, but say i rev it high and long, it will want to stay at 1100 ish, then slowly move back down into normal idle around 900... (it was cold, so ill do some more test)

Tbi-MAX

Alright guys here is the deal of what happened..

when i 1st got it tunned with the SBC tb and config, the psi was tested by him.. when i brought it back with the exhaust changes, and BBC tb, I do not belive it was retested, cause he thought the fuel psi was the same.. (which in fact i did mess with the psi, and actually lowered it)

Im waiting for him to call me back, but this time he is going to re-test my fuel PSI and i let him know it HAS been changed.

like i said the lean spot is gone, and its actually RICH now.. as it will BOG when i floor it, and possibly cut off/ stall... cause its too rich in the lower tables..

im not messing with the fuel psi again, as he can simply edit the VE/PE tables and fix everything.. i learned that if you dont have enough fuel to support your engine, any amount of tuning will not help at all!

all this explains why he was saying it was lean...

also the hard starts are no longer, but the IAC tables need to be tweaked so it parks about 150-165... cause with the pintle compressed it starts without even a half of a turn on the key.. no throttle is needed..

im just glad now, that im too rich instead of too lean.. when it was lean it would backfire, and pop... now its rich, it bogs if i give it too much throttle.. too rich can be something Alvin handle easy with the tune..

3rd time should be the charm this time, but the guy has done nothing but help me out as im local!

Tbi-MAX

does my injector spray pattern look normal? also this is what it idles at 750-800 when fully warm... i went from a lean condition to a really rich condition.. but better rich than lean..

well all the plugs are pitch black, as i pulled all the even plugs to inspect them.. and also its some black smoke out of the tail pipe as well.. ill treat it to some new plugs sometime next week, right b4 i drop it off to the dyno.. but its enough fuel pressure for him to play with now.. also he has a FP tester, so he will test the psi for me. right now its max that the stock regulator can do, with the walbro 255

injector spray - BBC: throttle body, injectors, spring, regulator max


cold idle rpm


black smoke (running rich)


plugs smell FULL of gas.. ill post some pics when i get back to my other pc... but they all are black from a rich condition now, as i turned the psi up...

how much PSI should we set it at? i was told 15psi would be fine, but will anything higher be better? once tuned and dialed in?

titchener

TBI, you need to do some quick research to figure out the best fuel pressure for your engine and injectors, and then carefully set it to that before having this guy do the tuning, otherwise you are both flying blind. By changing the pressure without knowing what it was originally set to you totally threw away his last tuning effort, he'll be starting from scratch now.

The pressure you need is determined by your engine size, injector size and HP target. My memory is that you have 90# injectors on this 383, correct?

Somebody has posted a formula to calculate the pressure needed given your engine size, injector size and HP so if you search thru the posts you can probably find it. Since I'm planning to go to a 383 at some point I grabbed the following table out of one of the posts:

90 pph max HP supported
383 CID for the BPC numbers
15 psi (96.7pph)=365 HP BPC=94
16 psi (99.8pph)=377 HP BPC=91
17 psi (102.9pph)=389 HP BPC=88
18 psi (105.9pph)=400 HP BPC=86

This shows both the pressure needed and BPC setting for different HP targets, so this should get you close.

Don't run a larger pressure than you really need to as you'll be asking for problems at idle speeds. The issue is that with big injectors and high pressure the required injector pulsewidth at idle is so short you run into problems.

Good luck-

Paul T.

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

this will calc your BPC and more.

http://www.users.bigpond.net.au/ben_...ctorsizing.xls

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

Quote: right now its max that the stock regulator can do, with the walbro 255

be careful it in not in coil bind or FP could be way high. also that it is a huge fuel pump. I think you should back off on the FP till the exhaust clears up a bit. I would install the gauge B4 you get back to Alvin. Cant the FP gauge be added right at the fuel inlet to the TB with a T fitting??

Tbi-MAX

thanks man.. yea, i have 90#s (91 454) injectors.. I was just talking with 91chevZ71 last night, and he calculated that i need to run 17 psi.. but thank you for giving me that list for the different psis...

that is some good info about checking the psi myself, as i am buying a gauge that taps into where the fuel filter is... im getting the plugs and gauge at the same time.. just tired of shooting in the dark, and i dont want to repeat this again.

makes sense about the pulsewidth at idle, but my idle is pretty damn good... however since I am testing the pressure without a filter, i was told to dial it in about 2psi higher, as the filter will decrease the psi, once i reinstall it... so if i need 17 psi, ill dial in 19 without the filter, then that should be 17 after the filter is reinstalled...

thanks for the working .xls file, i was messing with it last night... Im going to use the T fitting gauge to check the fuel pressure, im purchasing one.. Ill do this b4 i get back with Alvin. if it can be added to the TB instead of the fuel filter better yet.. ill see what fittings it comes with...

how do i look for coil bind? i would hate to have it...

titchener

>how do i look for coil bind? i would hate to have it...

These "bypass type" regulators run closest to spring bind at idle when the bypass is open the widest and the spring is being pushed on the hardest. So as long as you have some clearance from bind at idle speeds you'll be ok since with more engine load and rpm the spring moves away from bind to close the bypass off to keep the fuel pressure constant. So if you are ok at idle, you're ok across the board.

With the engine warmed up and idling, set your desired 17 lbs of pressure, using a gauge t-ed into the inlet on the TBI unit. Shut the engine off, and use a sharpie to put a line on your adjustment screw. Then turn it clockwise facing the head (tightening it) and count the number of turns until you feel the spring bind (don't go too hard). As long as you are getting at least 4 or 5 turns before the spring binds you should be ok.

At a 17 lb setting you'll probably be fine.

Another quick check is to watch the pressure while revving the engine some, it should stay pretty constant. If it drops a lot from the revving its a sign of regulator spring bind (this is assumming your fuel pump is good).

Paul T.

91chevz71

great thing about the CFM tech adapter is that it has two ports in it; one for the gauge and and extra that comes with a plug. When I was on the dyno, we hooked up the other port to the dyno computer so we could monitor FP to make sure I had solid psi up to max rpm

zipfast

iTrader: (2)

I guess that "I" am the only one that didn't like the fact that a TBI didn't
come with a FUEL port, and figure out where to put one.

91chevz71

I like that

Tbi-MAX

WOW, SEXY!

how hard was that to do?

i have checked Napa, Advanced, AutoZone, Orilleys... NO one has the TBI fuel tester gauge.... unbelievable!! Orilleys said they can order the kit for everything but thats $300 and some change...

now how in the world do i get a permanent gauge setup? i was told to get any external regulator and use that... but how will i disable the stock regulator?

any links I can use? help is needed as i want to order something today. I just got some NGK plugs for the vortec heads as well.. but i wanted to test the fuel psi..

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

I use an aeromotive 13301 I think is the part #. comes with low pressure spring(<21) and high pressure (>21-60). I used the stock FPR as a template and scribed out a .125 inch aluminum plate and cut with a dremel to size. At auto parts store bought some heavier fuel gasket and cut that. bolted in place of the stock reg. in one of the ports is the FPG. Mine is liquid but i hear the dry one is better.

titchener

Tbi, the stock regulators work fine although they are a little harder to adjust, so unless you have your heart set on an external regulator, why not keep the stock one.

Several companies sell adapters to put a fuel pressure gauge or sensor inline with the TBI fuel inlet, here's one below:

http://marine-performance-parts.com/...843505774.aspx

I think you can find them 10 bucks less than that tho if you search around, try xtremefi's ebay store.

Paul T.

Tbi-MAX

now that is a setup i wanted in the past... that is a expensive setup.. IMO... i was hoping to setup my external regulator for 40-50$ including the fuel pressure gauge...

Oldred95 explained it some on FSC.. he is using a import regulator he got on ebay, with rubber hoses... the regulator comes with a gauge and is adjustable.. he runs it on the return side of his lines.. and he simply removed the stock regulator spring... and he runs 40-50 psi daily.. plus its vac regulated...

i was thinking more of going with a ebay regulator thats cheap and adjustable.. and something that i dont have to do alot of fab work to, get to work...

Tbi-MAX

i actually hate the stock regulators.. mine is a stock made adjustable.. so i must remove the fuel lines, unbolt the injector pod, flip it over... turn the screw... THEN reconnect the lines.. (so a fitting like that will do me no good actually)

i found them cheaper on ebay like you said.. but still i will have to remove it to adjust anything...


thus the reason i want to get rid of the stock style regulator..

this is what Oldred95 said on FSC

titchener

>i actually hate the stock regulators.. mine is a stock made adjustable.. so i
>must remove the fuel lines, unbolt the injector pod, flip it over... turn the
>screw...

I hear you on this, that is a pain, but you really should be setting your fuel pressure just once to a number you carefully choose as we discussed a few posts ago and then leaving it alone.

Any tuning you then do should be done thru chip changes, not by moving the fuel pressure around. Changing the fuel pressure only is just too coarse a way to tune, and it will throw out all the work your dyno guy is going to do for you.

TBI, this may be tough to hear, but I'm going to give it to you straight, your dyno guy may be able to get you close to a reasonable tune but if you really want to nail it you'll probably need to get into doing the chips yourself, especially since it appears that he may not be that familiar with TBI cars. It would be great if he ends up proving me wrong, but it usually takes more than a couple of hours to get a EFI car running well and will require both dyno and street driving, and that could get pretty expensive unless he really knows how to tune TBI cars quickly.

Paul T.

Tbi-MAX

yea, you are right, i know ill have to dive in and tune myself.. but im getting a copy of his .BIN file so i can edit it myself when i start to tune.. I understand about not changing the fuel psi without compensating for changes in the tune.. so i figure i better just keep the stock style regulator, and set it right the 1st time...

i just need him to tune it as close as he can, he is good with TBI, but i feel how Bmonte and the other guys feel, when they said to me to tune it myself now..

another thing i found out about the ebay ***** units, is that they dont regulate under 20psi... so they are no good for what i need.. i plan to weld something to the stock modded regulator, and try to make it adjustable, without removing the pod at all..

man, i love this website for guys like you, who can explain it to a hardhead.. thanks!

i just put the new NGK plugs in this evening, and OMG the old plugs were pitch black, smelled like gas, the back 2 plugs were almost wet with gas, etc.. im sure it runs good now, but i still had not start it up yet.. as i want to test & set the fuel psi to 17 psi.

here is what i plan to do.. buy the ebay fitting for the shrader valve, with a gauge... hook the lines up outside of the pod.. set the screw in the ON position to 17 psi, then remount everything, then start it up, and see what the gauge says... ??

or is that a bad idea? maybe i take a look at it tmrw again, and see if i can fit a small screw driver in there, and turn the screw as its still mounted..

zipfast

iTrader: (2)

[QUOTE=Tbi-MAX;3619196]WOW, SEXY!

How hard was that to do?

I got a shrader valve off a fuel rail from a Junk v-6 (FREE).
Then I took a small file and made a flat spot the size of the
gasket for the valve, on the TBI.

I drilled a hole one drill bit size
smaller than the valve (don't rember the size). Took a thread pitch
guage and got the pitch and used that size tap. 10 minutes tops.

Also there right about just set the pressure and leave it.
(I still change mine on occasion, then change it on the chip.)

I had made one adjustadle by welding a 1/4 inch square stock piece
to the bottom of the regulator, then I used a 1/4" wrench to adjust it.

boogie

TBI Max: My hats off to you,I admire your dedication and work you have put into this project but,C'mon you been throwing time and money at this thing for almost a year now and it still aint right. Tuning a modded TBI is obviously not as easy as say ...a good ole carb set-up!

Tbi-MAX

lol, yes, i felt that way on a few occasions.. trust me.. but gas mileage is something i still want to be decent.. yes, it taken some time to get this combo done.. but i really wasnt rushing things.. as the truck had not been my daily driver in a long time. i actually like working on it, it has turned into a project vehicle.. i still want to start tuning on my own. but it is surely not as easy as they say.. when they say dive into it...

im also finished, as i just need my fuel pressure calculated to get my tune corrected. amazingly how fast the time has passed, but the engine only has maybe 7K miles on it, with maybe 6-7 oil changes... and this is my 2nd set of vortec plugs..

im sure ill thank myself afterwards..

-----------------------
alright, here is what i decided:

http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16175

im going to install that "T" fitting behind the throttle body, and leave it there permanent.. i will not leave the gauge hooked up permanent.. but in the future, ill get a gauge that can connect to that valve, and leave it under there..

the Actron kit comes with the "T" and also with the gauge, for the same price i can pick up just a "fitting/T" for.. so im getting the kit.. Im targeting for 15.5-16 psi... as i dont expect to make over 350 horses..


the fiting looks like this.. this is the "T" it comes with


notice how similar it is to the other fittings with a schrader valve..


so this is why im getting the kit, cause i get more for the price.. gauge and fitting..

Actron CP7817... is what its called..

Tbi-MAX

updates...

well while i am waiting for the gauge to get here, i decided to back the regulator 1 full turn outwards, to release some pressure on the spring. (i was told to do this to see if it still bogs)... well the truck never sounded better! and i put down some black marks on the ground in the parking lot as i moved the truck from the opposite side to the new spot where i normally park.. it did NOT bog, or choke or nothing, no pops in the throttle body.. i was surprised.. seems like it really wanted those new spark plugs, and for me to back off the psi a little.. but i cant wait till i get my gauge and set it at 16psi.. and return to the dyno.. tmrw im going to pull 1 of the plugs to see how it looks.. but its not kicking out black smoke anymore... i let it run for like 3 mins or less during the entire process...

Tbi-MAX

updates

well Alvin is pretty busy these past weeks, working on a special SS project, he actually hadn't made any appointments for dyno work the last entire 2 weeks, trying to get this project he is working on; working.. so its going to be atleast 1-1.5 weeks before he can get back with me..

well im kicking my self in the **** for not doing this to begin with... but im basically about to tune this thing my darn self.. after re-reading my entire post, and absorbing all the tons of advice, and actually being a witness to whats been said.. i have to tune this combo myself personally, if its ever going to get right... im about frustrated waiting on other people, and this is being done locally, so i know its IMPOSSIBLE to get a mail order tune even this close or near close.. but i even tho im close, i see it will not be perfect unless i do it all myself.. it was a learning experience, as i could have had all the tools to tune with already... even at some points i was thinking about just throwing a carb on it, but then i thought again about what i want the truck for and its usage. im stickin with the tbi.. but this project will be on hold/pause until i receive my Ostrich, Wideband, ALDL cable, adapter.... as i see in the future ill be changing things etc.. its only wise to do this myself. i will stil get the combo dynoed..

im looking for a new intake manifold, to replace my current one, im loosing the heated riser completly, boring out my tbi adapter plate, and going to begin tuning myself... should have everything by the end of month.

going to lift the truck 4" in the mean while...

im looking at the edelbrok dual plane, high rise intake manifold... EDL-2716

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

You made the right decision in DIY. It is a challenge that can be frustrating but there is satisfation in DIY tuning.

I would suggest the Holley TBI manifold. It supports 2.00 TBI and up to 6000 rpms. It is a high rise dual plane.

Your choice on the hardware end is all good. But I think EBL Flash will make tuning easier. Learn VE will make your BLM corrections and create a new .bin as you drive. Just flash in the corrected VE tables after a drive with VE Learn functioning. If you have not yet looked on dynamicefi website it will describe its features in total. Add you your wish list an innovate LC-1 and you have it all.

91chevz71

he's got a 4l60e/7427. ostrich

Tbi-MAX

yea im all for it, im getting the things to tune next.. i just lifted the truck up in the last 2 days... i cant wait to start tuning now.. i notice alot of stuff, like my truck doesnt really want to run good untill it warms up etc.. i want to fix every small detail sorta speak in the tune.. i figure i dyno shop will NOT have the time to give to your vehicle to get everything right, but just it it close, get you out of there, and charge the other person after you..

well like Mike said, i got the 4l60e and 7427pcm, so i need the Ostrich real time emulator..

here is a pic of the truck, i still have to lift the back.. and get some wide tires..



little flexing


but its lifted 4" up front... so it should be 2" higher than a 4x4 then my 33" MT tires will give it the look and level stance i want.. still should make for a good performer.. i was tempted to go higher, but i figure i get more control and less lean with this height, with wider tires.. the tires on here now looks like donuts.. i think they are 30.5s

i removed the rubber flaps in the inner wheel wells to the engine, to help the engine breathe more.. but it also makes the truck sound even more badass cause its like the headers are playing a tune.. the truck is starting to look as scarey as it sounds..

anyways, i cant wait to start tuning, especially for gas mileage reasons, and power...

axisT6

Do yourself a favor and stick with an 8" wide wheel. I have the same set-up on my truck, and 10" wide rims cause way too many problems.

oldred95

Yea I've got that feeling a 2wd truck would not like 10 inch wide wheels for clearance reasons. I can run a 33 x 12.50 on a 15 x 8 wheel with only a 3 inch body lift if I want, but my 32 x 11.50s are far from worn out so I don't feel like buying an inch taller tire.

Tbi-MAX

axisTS, thanks for helping me alot on FSC! yea, i am going with the 15x8.. i didnt know your on TGO too...

oldred tires will be 33x12.5x15 on a 15x8 rim with 4" bs

measurements came out to be 38" front and 37" rear.. those measurements are with my 30.6" tires... so when i get my 33" tires, ill be up higher, so ill be sitting at 40"?? plus the width will help with handling 265 vs 318... i was surprised how the 30.6 handle now..

trucks sits perfectly level, plenty high enough for me 6'2... still handles remarkably! im very surprised.... remember suburbans come with BOTH the rear and front sway bar, unlike the pickups... cant wait for new rims and MT 33s..

4" lift

top if the tires stay consistent with the body line...

even in the wheel well, it stay consistent with body line.



now im getting every last thing i need to start tuning.. lol

Tbi-MAX

i am not getting any help... i still have no idea, what chip socket or nothing i need to order.. except that i need a ostrich, wb, aldl, socket... i started a thread on the DIY prom.. but nobody seems to be helping.. https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/diy-...l05-383-a.html

maybe i should not have started the thread over there, or its in the wrong section.. this really sucks. everyone says start tuning, do it yourself.... then its not much help at all after that.. wow

when i got to www.moates.net i still do not know what to order, except for the Ostrich 175$, and WB02 i see for 80$

zap

TbiMax,

You will also need the G1, I would also get a DB2 to put on the end of the cable that comes with the Ostrich, because the pins are so small and easy to bend or break off.
You will need more then just the WB O2 sensor ,needs a controler to go with it.
Datalogging with TunerProRT will also requre the right ADS file.
And of course the right hookup to the PCM.

Tbi-MAX

this is the type of help im looking for...

so is this G1 correct?
http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?products_id=32

Ostrich
http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?products_id=169

WB02
http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?products_id=94

so now you are saying i need MORE than just the WB02?? I was told i can tap that to the ALDL OBD1.. and get it to work.. Where do i get a controller?

I plan to leave the Ostrich plugged in permanently, not remove in and out.. so i still need the DB2?

zap

Yes that is the G1, Even if Ostrich plugged in permanently I would still put a DB2 on the end.

The only WB O2 in the 80 dollar price range is the sensor its self, the controller is what the sensor hooks up to to convert it in to something that the PCM can use.
I use the LC-1, but there are others out there.Mark sell the LC-1 and the PLX.
http://www.moates.net/index.php?cPath=48

Tbi-MAX

ok so where is the link to the DB2? i didnt see it linked anywhere..

and the wb02 is worthless without the controller.. (its seems like new parts keep on adding) lol

so just this controller/cable is $150?
http://www.moates.net/product_info.p...products_id=91
and i need that to work with the wb02

so let me get this straight, you are saying with the wb02 and controller, i DO NOT need to use a NB02? or i still have to?

zap

Sorry, its call the D2.
http://www.moates.net/index.php?cPath=26

I would buy the whole package controller and sensor together.

I would not use the WB in place of the NB, HaulnA$$ told me this.

Are you using EGR with the 7427, if not you can hookup one of the WB outputs to B16 egr position signal pin on the PCM. For datalogging only.

Tbi-MAX

http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?products_id=88

ok so thats 200$ instead of 230$ if i buy them separate! undetstood now..

i found the D2 for 2$
http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?products_id=59

ok, yea i figured i need both sensors... i was told the same b4. my NB02 is in the right collector.. and my WB02 will be placed on the connecting pipe from my left collector to my WYE pipe.. a little downstream.

EGR i am not using it!! and I still have the harness sitting on the intake manifold.. so maybe i can just run a wire from that to the WB.. and not have to play with the pins behind the pcm itself..

yes, i just need the WB for dataloging only!

Ronny

iTrader: (1)

You need the controller with sensor. $199 I would suggest the A/F gauge as well $79. I think (three) that comes in kit form ?

Tbi-MAX

well i almost got a headache.. but this is what i got so far:

Ostrich
http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?products_id=169

D2 Socket
http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?products_id=59

G1 Adapter
http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?products_id=32

WB02 with controller cable
http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?products_id=88

ALDL & usb
http://www.moates.net/product_info.php?products_id=127
(do i need this full kit or is it a cheaper cable to work)

ARE THESE CORRECT?

zap

I think its the brown wire on the connector.
Oh and by the way Iam also known as Blue71 on FSC.

zap

YES!

Tbi-MAX

sup man.. glad you are over here to help me! cause thats the most help i got so far, thanks.

Tbi-MAX

well, its going to be a process.. but atleast i have a goal! thing is I have to find a cheap laptop too.. so my budget is going to have to be about 1G. I cant wait to get started, Im thinking about just ordering things in parts.. like Ostrich, G1, D2, then WB & ALDL combo cables..

all help is appreciated! I can not wait to begin tuning....