Tbi-MAX

okay, so Im getting my vortec heads from Scoggin Dickey performance parts, so I will use my summit k1103 camshaft... now I need a good intake to fit the vortec heads for reasonable price. Also my walbro 255 will be in at the same time... that should complete the build. will also get things tuned right after on dyno by Alvin.

I sincerely appreciate each persons input who helped me and steered me in the correct way. experience is always best.

Tbi-MAX

here is the manifold I was looking at...

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...ayphotohosting



this is the adaptor plate: http://store.summitracing.com/partde...?part=TRD-2211





will these 2 work together? it is the best prices I found. Im not worried about getting high $$ parts, as Im already almost doubled my budget. but still all in all ahead of the game.

anyone with a quick answer, who knows for sure if these will work? or has a manifold they wanna sell to me?

BMmonteSS

Yep, should work fine.

Tbi-MAX

cool, thanks... I actually missed that one, but I got 1 now, and I know what plate to use with it.

Tbi-MAX

here is what I did in 20 mins, and another 20 mins or regulator.
before:


after:




they still have to polish up with a different bit, Ill do that soon...

here is the regulator, I can use a flathead to adjust it now...









I have a question about the fuel pressure regulator mod. I need new gaskets now.. how the hell can i find them??

beatercoprice

Instead of starting a new thread I thought Id just ask here. What are ones options with running an EGR with vortec heads? I know the GMPP TBI intake does not have a provision for an EGR. Is there any intake that does?

BMmonteSS

Your only option is to rig up an external EGR system. There were some 4cyl GM cars that had something to this effect. Just have to plumb in the exhaust and a tap into the intake.

I would just like to add that EGR is only used during part thorttle cruising situations to cool combustion temps and allows the engine to run more timing and a leaner fuel mix which is why it helps fuel mileage. It is NOT active during WOT and there for will NOT effect power. It is true that it was used as a way to reduce emisions, but if one were to use it as a way to maximise part throttle timing and reduce your AFR you could in theory increase your milieage even more.

91chevz71

I have that intake...I thought it does have the ports necessary for external EGR plumbing. I might be wrong. lookat these-
I have a plate where the EGR valve goes and a plug for the exhaust feed from the headers.

swerve-driver

The GMPP TBI intake does have EGR provisions.

See this link: https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tbi/...TBI+vortec+EGR

Worked fine.

S-D

Tbi-MAX

Damn that makes alot of sense... but too bad, I got the cheaper manifold without the egr, the gmpp tbi has it but is like double the price. It would have been nice to tune that in... dang it.

Actually I did not get that manifold, I got this one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...9958994&rd=1,1

383chevyz71

just found this forum yesterday or I would have commented earlier. You are using the same pistons that I used, your cam is a hair bigger as mine is a PBM with lift of 209/216 and 435/455. I used the eagle crank and rods, melling high volume pump, pbm springs, stock heads, stock flywheel, stock intake with TB holes bored to 2" to match the holley 670 tbi, I also added a tbi space. I got my chip from TBIchips. I really need to get it reburned though. I am currently running my stock TB but will put my holley back on. With the chip it does good with the stock TB except a little rich at idle probably due to being tuned for bigger injectors. With the current chip it didn't want to run right from around 2000 to just under 3000 rpms with the holley especially when cold, once it warms up it wasn't too bad, but it would miss and backfire until it got warm and sometimes still did. I guess the extra air flow was throwing the MAP sensor off causing it to pull timing. Hopefully getting the chip reburned will help. I am going to try to use a data logger to get some numbers for the map sensor readings in the problem area so the chip can be done better. If I was doing it over I would probably go with to vortec heads and intake which on the stroker should give at least 40 more horse over stock heads. The 193's don't have super top end but are good for low end torque. My truck running 35x12.50 geolander MT will still lay a good mark with the stock TB on it and real good with the holley when it runs right.

BMmonteSS

Just a little FYI, your ecm has the ability to adjust fueling between 10 and 20 % depending on the .bin file you are running. In order for you to notice that you are running rich you have to max out the self compensation and then be that much richer. SO your fuel curves could be off as much as much as 25-35%......you can start to see how a mail order tune isn't looking too hot. Brian's best guess can't even get in the ball park.

Also it's not that the map readings are wrong, it's just that you are moving a different amount of air for a particular map reading. This is why tuning is required, to alter your VE curves so that your fueling matches back up with what the engine really needs.

I would quit messing around with Brian and start learning to tune yourself, you'll be much better off in the long run.

Tbi-MAX

383chev I would listen to BMonte on the tunning stuff, he knows his shh1t. It is way better to self tune than mail order tune. I actually spoke with Alvin from PCM4less again yesterday, he is waiting for me to fire up my stroker so he can squeeze me in the schedule.

here is whats going on so far...

old stuff.... old summit k1102 cam got to return it..


old 350 bore condition, still rounded and good... thats just dirt in the pic..


old 350 block, dirty, and oily bed...





--------------------------------------------------------------------------


now for the good stuff.... 383 pistons, with stock rods....



cleaned up block, lines bored, bored, hot tanked, plugs, bearing, etc, etc, etc....













just awaiting the vortec heads, manifold, 255pump, prob take pics tonight if those are in.... plenty more pics to come as I get on the ball this week...

Tbi-MAX

okay, so 1st obstruction I ran into today... the crank fits fine, but knocked on a slight edge of the block. My mechanic guy took care of it, but a little grinding in 1 corner of the block... worked like a charm after... I have pics ill post later... it was so close it wasnt funny... crank spins freely now...

but..... 2nd problem, we put the pistons in, and the rod cap bolts, slightly taps the blocks also... it is also so close its not funny... we plan to grind a few little places to the 4 bolts thats touching on the 4 pistons... will make the crank spin freely again..

I got to run, ill post pics later.

Tbi-MAX

crank & cam seated





crank knock from top view

knock from bottom view, pic of cutout area....



the FIX... afterwards




spins freely....

Tbi-MAX

4 pistons in




cant wait, .52 lift....








k1103 and this is the stuff i used for assembly of everything, also some lucas synthetic oil...

Tbi-MAX

I still have some more grinding to do to get the rod cap bolts to clear the block. it is not much grinding at all, 4 of the rods cap bolts are tapping the block as I rotate the crank. My guy says he can take care of it, he is used to grinding stuff... so I think Im good so far... Ill have more updates later.

1badz71tahoe

1. Find a different engine builder. With all due respect, I think you've attained 100x more information here than than "My Engine Builder" could ever do. If he is porting the heads in a vocational class, he's only like 25 years old max am i correct? How can a 25 year old have GOBS of "Racing Engine Experience". We don't care if your new to this stuff man, you don't have to try to impress us by saying you have some high and mighty engine builder doing everything for you, expecially if he's doing it in his garage.

2. I think your best bet unfortunately is to get a mail order tune, because that engine is now wayyyyyyyyy too modded for you to start out like bmmonte said.

I don't want to rain on your parade, but it sounds like your really, really, really, really over your head. I hope you slow down and start reading more before you continue. I have tried the best I can not to be rude, but my first impressions from here and FSC have been that you and your engine builder know everything there is to know, yet you've asked every single question possible for this engine build from the guys here.

Bottom Line: Ditch that "Race Engine Building Specialist" and the 400 bucks he wants to assemble it, and learn to do this stuff yourself, from the help of us on the boards.

Take Care,

- B

Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

Unless my eyes are failing me or it's an optical illusion, those pistons are in upside down.

Like he said...it looks like you are in way over your head.
I see disaster lurking on the horizon.

Tbi-MAX

yea, appreciate the input and critizim... nothing wrong with that...
he is not no great engine builder, Im not falling for that, I have not yet.. Im still trying to figure out why you would think he is the best builder?? he has just built a couple of race motors, several.. he is 45 or something. I do agree with you about finding a better mechanic however.

about the mail order tune, why? Im getting it tuned professionally locally. go back and read above... Self tuning is not better than a proper dyno tune, especially tuned by someone with ample TBI tunning experience..

I have went over my head on this build, we all know it, I know it.. but what can I do now? complain? No, I have to get it done... I have all these parts, so Im about to find someone who knows their ****.. someone else.

Im better off building the damn thing myself, like you said... cause the guys here know so much.. more than he apparently thinks he knows...
----------
no it was upside down! he fixed that. we took them all out today... nothing is in yet, just test seated. only thing torqued down is the crankshaft! but im looking at someone else to finish this build. b4 he fu$ks something up, or I loose my cool....

take a look at where the binding on the crank is... those 2 rods dont even turn when tightened... he says they may be out of round, but I dont hear anything he says anymore... but the machinest also mentioned to me to upgrade the rods or get those reworked some..

my question now, as Im going, will new rods make this thing fit and spin freely??

here is the rods sitting out of the cylinder, but still aren't free to swing, cause its so tight.. when you loosen the cap rod bolts they spin on the crank. Is this cause the rods are out or round, or the whole thing just aint correct?

Can someone walk me through this build, if I take over, and build it myself using his tools? Cause its kinda in the middle of the building process. I will be making some calls tomorrow for another local shop, but its not many shops at all around here..

beatercoprice

Im no whizz bang engine builder or anything, But I think you want to grind the block and not the rod bolts. Im not sure if grinding the bolts is an acceptable way of clearancing. Deffinatly have your rods at least checked out!

Fracture

Did this same engine builder of yours put the cam in your last motor? That would explain why it blew up on you less than 1000 miles later...

I don't care if you're "just slapping it together to test fit things" - if you are screwing up simple things like putting the pistons in the right way, and grinding rod bolts for block clearance, it's time to head for the hills. Next thing you know he'll put the main caps on backwards too. I can see bearings lasting a long time like that.

I hope you haven't ground the rod bolts yet. Why didn't you just get the machine shop to at least assemble the short block? The extra money spent would have been well worth it knowing that everything down there was put together properly.

It would have been a good idea to get the rods resized at the machine shop. It really should have been assembled there too IMO. Personally I'd just pick up all the parts and bring them to an automotive machine shop in your area with a good reputation, and let them have at it.

1badz71tahoe

Professional tune is good.

I am a little concerned the way your cutting off block material to clearance that crank. Are you going to have it externally balanced like you mentioned? Like the guy above said, you should have just spent the cash for the bottom end to get assembled, and your competent of the rest.

"My Machine Guy" is 58, builds engines for a living, supplies VP Race Fuel to the local drag strippers, and is also the chairman for that same drag. You gotta find someone like that. Again, the only thing he does is assemble my short blocks, and do all cleaning honing, boring, blueprinting, magnafluxing, etc.

Take Care,

- B

PS: Keep reading about DIY tuning too, man the power of integration of system sensors you have over your engine once stuff starts to click. You'll $hit yourself!

Tbi-MAX

no, this is not the same mechanic who did the first swap... I was in Mexico town when I got the 1st swap... He never planned on grinding the rod bolts, he wanted to grind the block where the bolts touched.. We have not grind ANYTHING! cause Im taking all my stuff back from him tonight... Yes, the same machine shop who did the block work, will be the ones putting in the bottom end, since its the most important. I also found another builder who will warranty 20k miles if he does the build... trust me Im not going a cheap route. I clearly spent over my budget already, and Im not gonna cheap the most important part, the build...

Tbi-MAX

yea, hopefully the little trim he cut does not effect the balance of the motor. I plan on the machine shop to do a balance on it once they assemmble the bottom part. Im gonna spend the extra cash to get this done correct, and warranty on some of the mileage.

well I need a "guy" like yours, cause mine seems to be a 45 year old oxycotton snorter... 3day awake non mechanic builder who thinks he can build race motors. Maybe he just melted those brain cells, and forgot how to build it... Hope he forgets his name also.. The most fustrating part, is that he wasted my freakin time!! dumb bastard... the good part is that im still in race alley, and Im certain I can find the right person for this job. someone with proper credintials, and a beautiful shop...

keep the replys comming....

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

If the guys in oxycodone land then its definatly time to find another builder. Also, it looks like maybe the rod ends where overheated as well? Dont want to apply so much heat that it removes any sort of heat treatment, especially near the wristpin area, as thats the weakest part of the rod.

Also, prior to installing that cam, you'll want to measure your clearances between the spring retainers and the valve guide seals on your heads. The 062s are only rated to .450" of lift. Ideally, you should have the cams lift + .060" as the total available valve travel. Now would be the time to fix that if it really is an issue. Some minor work to the heads along with better springs and staked studs may be needed to run that cam.

Another option is comp cams computer controlled 260AH-14. It only has .444" of lift, but a good ammount of duration for your 383 as well as a wide LSA and low advertised duration to cut down on overlap. That would be my preferred choice. It will likely need better springs then stock, though.

Tbi-MAX

yea, im done with that guy! About the build, I may just buy new rods; heck, make it strong. Ill have the machine shop do that, they offered me some scat rods at 1st too $$ . About the heads... they have Z28 valve springs, and extra machine work. with light weight LT4 retainers. it can handle .525" lift.. those are the heads in the pictures. http://www.sdparts.com/product/SD806...ngUpgrade.aspx
the k1103 is 0.442 int./0.465 exh. lift, so will that work well? thats what I have, and I still have both k1102 & k1103.

BMmonteSS

My machinist always told me that pressing the rods onto the pistons was a one shot deal. You almost always deform the pistons trying to press the pin back out of the rod.

Might be a better option to just have them put ARP bolts in those rods and resize the big end. They should be able to do this without taking the rods back off the pistons.

91chevz71

hey tbi-max-
how much up to date have you spent on this project? I am considering a 383 for the next money pit project...among other ideas

1badz71tahoe

I think in TBI Max's budget he has done well and will chime in.

Getting that assembly balanced and the bottom end assembled will be a little more but I believe a stroker is fully attainable from 1600.00 onwards. Again that's assuming myself cannot assemble a short block, nor can I rebuild heads. I've started to work on blending the bowls of my vortec heads and will have to post up some pics of that. Another few good techniques that you can do at home would be to port out your exhaust and intake manifolds to match the gaskets, Ultimate TBI mods (see sticky), and start coarse to very very fine sanding and buff the aluminum surfaces which will help with flow characteristics (on the inside atleast ). Every little bit counts.

The reason I point out the notching of the block is that it scares me because the fundamental idea of an engine is to be as precisely balanced as possible. I do know that there are two fundamental ways by which an engine can be balanced Internally, and Externally. All I know is that Externally is by way of flywheel or whatever is on the back (for autos) and balanced accordingly with I believe the damper on the front. Internally all has to do with being able to run whatever you want for a flywheel, and since I have a 5 speed now, and am upgrading to a 6 speed, I had my setup balanced internally. That's why I pay for crucial items like that because I can say Hey here's my Order from summit, internally balanced crank -- do it up. Those tolerances are too tight to be messing around with for a hobbyist. I'd rather someone with 25-30+ years on just building engines and doing machine work than myself. Of course I am only 30, but I believe another 30 years of doing it on the side is probably only half the experience of a true builder. I still have my first toolbox that my father made me and those blue handled tools from about 5 or so.

All ranting done Heads and Short block are two of the most crucial items of the car, let alone the engine, and when it comes to a modified engine I want those tolerances exact.

About those notches, just for general 383 information, you need to notch out pieces of the block for clearance of the chevy 400 crank.

There are a few more things that haven't been covered in here, but I guess like the other guys I can't give away all the secrets.

Take Care,

- B

beatercoprice

The block isnt balenced, the rotating assembly is. Just as the car isnt balenced the wheel is.

The correct way to clearance for a stroker is to remove material from the block and not the rotating assembly as his phamicutically enhanced engine builder suggested.

Tbi-MAX

once again BMonteSS is correct, cause this is EXACTLY what the machinest said this morning. He will have to inspect the pistons to see if he can, but he did suggest, arp bolts and recondition the rods. so this looks like what Ill have to have get done. but they are backed up for the next 2 weeks, so Ill have to find another machine shop to do the same thing and balance it.

Tbi-MAX

so far about 1700 in parts, about 2-300 tied up in machine work... I plan on keeping it under 2400$ still and thats included dyno tuning.. so still im doing very well as pricing goes...

JohnBlazeLTZ

OMG man...the dude was cracked out? DANG! In this whole process you could've just had a shop build the shortblock for you for around 16-1800 bucks. I sure was hoping that you will be successful in this endeavor. Better to spend the money and get it done right rather then not at all.

Tbi-MAX

yea man, you pay for convince. It never fails, trying to cheap doesn't cut it at all! Ive learned that. The machine shop who did the block work, is actually booked up for another 2 weeks. So I took it to another machine shop about 3 miles from my house. They are going to assemble the shortblock, file my rings if they need to (he does this on keithblack pistons) but I have speedpro, clearance all the block work for rods to swing freely, install the bearings on rods, machine, fix the rods, install my timing chain... and assemble the shortblock for a whopping 250$ Ill pick the block up in 2 more days. I thought that was a good price. But my mistake was NOT getting all this done at the same shop who bored the block...

He will not however put on the oil pan, and pump, but he said they will wrap the motor up like a mommy so no dirt gets in it. So I take it I will be able to assemble the rest of the block by myself? once I get the shortblock back, correct?

the "pharmaceutical crackhanic" will put my **** back in my suburban, thats it! cause my small parts & truck are at his house.

Tbi-MAX

yea, this is what the new shop said, and this is what they are doing. cutting block material. NOT the rotating assembly..

Tbi-MAX

Questions?

I get the short block assembled back today from the machine shop. I plan on putting together the rest of the motor by myself today. I will start by putting in the oil pump & assembly, then the oil pan & gasket. Then put on the vortec heads & gaskets, then intake & gaskets, timing cover & gaskets, TB & gaskets, exhaust headers & gaskets.

I have a print out from my software ALLdata and Mitchell, I have all the torque specs for every single bolt inside and outside!! I will be torquing every nut down, and double checking them.

Everything Im doing has a gasket & just bolts, so Im thinking I cant mess anything up at this point? I also have a printout how to adjust the rockers by turning TDC on cylinder 1 & 6 and adjusting certain intake and exhaust rocker?

The machine shop put the timing chain on, so the timing is correct. The vortec heads are already fully assembled. so Im going to pump the lifters up with engine lube, red stuff for initial break in. install the pushrods, and use the stock rockers.

Ill have more pics, cause we know they tell a million words. Am I back on the correct track?

also when I get everything back in the truck, is there something special I need to do b4 I start the truck? I just want to make sure it starts, b4 I take it to Alvin to dyno. He said once I start it, bring it over. I will tow it over there tho.

beatercoprice

Does the oil pump have the pickup already installed and tack welded in place?

Ask one of the more experianced guys but I think you want to shoot for 1/2" of clearance between the pickup screen and the bottom of the oil pan. I think when I did it I pressed (well actually beat) the pickup into the oil pump them bolted it up to the motor, then I put a 1/2" thick wood board in the bottom of the oil pan and then seated the pan by hand. the wood block forced the pickup into the right position. I then took the oil pump back off made a referance mark in case it moved during transit and had someone tackweld it in place.

Installing the pickup was actually one of the toughest parts of the build and I did everything including assembling the shortblock.

BMmonteSS

I don't like the #1 and #6 TDC method, this sometimes doesn't quite work with bigger cams with a tight lobe sep angle. I suggest just putting one valve on the cylinder at max lift and adjusting the other. This way you know the other valve is on the base circle.

Tbi-MAX

thanks for the advice, yes the pickup is tack welded to the pump, as 1 assembly... hope this makes it a lot easier. Cause this is the part I might have to do..
----------
Yea, this is the method Mitchell on Demand suggested. but I know expertise is best. hey good news, the machinest is building my entire engine!!

its a long story man, he told me to get my parts and run, like you guys suggested, which is what I did do! man, the bearing in the main journal was messed up, cause it was assembled dirty, so I got new bearings, and everything is okay. they are going to build the entire thing for like 60$ extra. so thank god! it will be done correctly, and cleanly.

Tbi-MAX

just got back from the machine shop, the block looks amazing, those guys really know their shhh!t. They clearenced the block, not just on the 1 side I notched, but ALL 4 sides, also clearenced the block for the rods.. it looks really good. They are also cleaning up all my stuff, squeeky clean. They guy doing the work is really cool, I get to go in the back and talk with him and he shows me stuff. he has built several strokers before, mostly carb he said. but he said if my guy can program the computer it is all good.

Here is what they are installing, rods, pistons, rings, bearings, vortec heads, pushrods, lifters, rockers, crank, cam, timming chain, cover, cleaning the oil pan real good, torque everything down properly.

now get this their policy does not allow them to install the oil pump, intake manifold, flexplate, harmonic balancer. or atleast I will have to install those... but either way, I should have it back today maybe at lunch or little after...

Cant wait to get in the truck, crank it, then take it to tune, then break it in good...

Updates

I have installed the walbro 255 pump with the stock regulator moded, the screw about half way out... Hope this feeds the stroker properly. But I take it the tuner can tweak it a little bit? or adjust it if we have to?

Now I have important questions...

Do I need to change the oil right after I crank it? I know the flat tappet needs break in, and can get the oil dirty.

What is the proper way to break in the engine?

When I 1st start it, how long do I let it run for? do I rev it a little then cut it off, or just start it, and turn it right off, and get it to the dyno?

Tbi-MAX

good news...


I got the engine back assembled! it looks GREEEATTT! I want to thanks those who gave me the best advice of this build so far... I will have a few pics later on...

shop had to use heavy duty bolts on my heads & rods, cause it had some good compression. also he said that thing should use 0 oil! and its built very strong to book specs of a stroker! Those guys really know their stuff!

I have to do this myself:
oil pump
oil pan
valve covers
timing covers
exhaust headers
intake manifold, tbi adaptor

then get it started!!

Tbi-MAX

lil peak of my burb in the back.... double roller timing chain


stock rockers set and all spring and valve clearences were ready to go... comp-cam push rods


z28 springs.


fully assembled, with heavy duty head bolts, k1103 cam, eagle 383/400 crank, speed pro dish pistons, etc.

I installed the oil pump today, and primed it, but ill have to prime it all again tmrw. I need like 8 intake bolts for the vortec head intake - to intake manifold bolts. and 3 missing nuts (long stud with thread, last pic) for the oil pan plate, so ill finish that the next day. my machine guy should take care of me with the bolts... motor is wrapped like a mommy for right now. ill have pics when all that stuff gets together. all my gaskets i got from summit was wrong!!@ even for my year truck what i inputed... anyway, Ive got the gaskets locally.


Question

In the last pic above, can some tell me what is that extra threaded circle hole, near exhaust manifold connects? It has 1 on both heads, so 2 of them totally.

BMmonteSS

The extra exhaust manifold hole was only used on some exhaust manifolds. If your's doesn't use them don't worry about it. I will tell you that there are two bolt holes to the left of the timing cover looking at the front of the block. The top hole needs a bolt in it, or it will leak oil like a siv.

As for break-in, you absolutely HAVE to run the truck for 20-30 minutes above 2000 rpm varying the rpm's between 2000-3000 rpm. The reason for the increased RPM's is that the cam lobes are oiled by splash oil coming off of the crank. At 2000 rpm you'll have good oil flow over the cam lobes. After 20 min I would change the oil and then change the oil again in another 500-1000 miles depending on how dirty it looks. Use a high quality oil filter. Try to minimize false starts as every time the engine turns over you are wiping the assembly lube off of the bearings. Just have some one turn the truck over while you have your hand on the dissy and the throttle. Just set the timing by ear untill you get the cam broke in.

Tbi-MAX

Bmonte, yea, I figure that plug near exhaust on the right, needs to be plugged. so i did that, along with like 3-4 other plugs needed for the intake manifold. ill have pics little later....

about the left of the timing chain, are you talking about the manual fuel pump? cause we used new gaskets & block off plate for everything, and those holes are blocked of real good.

also about the break in... this is WITHOUT the tune when we 1st start it, run it 20mins? rev & drain oil.... and do the other stuff you said? cause that make more sense to me.

but so far, so good, did a lot today...

oil pump, primed & torqued, will prime again when in engine... oil pan & gaskets, rear main 1peice seal, timing cover gaskets and seal, valve covers & gaskets, intake and intake gaskets, new intake bolts, tbi & gaskets, tbi spacer, oil filter neck and lines, oil filter; exhaust manifold & gaskets - new bolts also. 400 harmonic balancer, water pump, flexplate, spark plugs, sensors... everything torqued to specs... its really looking like a beast of a motor now.. pretty nice paint too..

now I ran into a problem...
the 400 flexplate I order, is no way in hell going to fit that crankshaft.... I also looked at, and matched with like 26 different flexplate locally... 400,396,389... NONE of the 400 flexplates will match the bolt pattern needed for that crankshaft (383 eagle) which is the same bolt pattern as a 350... NONE of the cranks I seen has that bolt pattern but a 350.... so I got a new weighted 350 flexplate, and bolted that up on it. I believe this has to be correct. The crank said require 400 balancer & use of a flexplate. so Im thinking thats a 350 flexplate, and 400 harmonic balancer....

I have a few parts I have to return to summit....


still have to install: injector pod, wire harness, pulleys, fan, power steering, alternator, distributor, trans seals.... and get it into the motor. and attempt to start it...........

it looks like I will be fabbing brackets for my ignition coil, and some other lines... the new intake is totally different, but its nothing I did not expect. other than that. thats the update of whats going on.

BMmonteSS

No the bolt hole I'm talking about is on the front of the block, it's covered up by the hook in your picture above. The extra exhaust bolt hole does not need to be plugged, it doesn't go anywhere.

Yes, the break-in needs to happen as soon as you start it the first time. The best senario is that you crank it once and it fires right up, do the break in, change the oil and take it to get tuned.


Here's your problem with the flexplate, you have a roller block, which has a 1-piece rear main seal. This is a different crank than the old school small block. So your 400 flywheel won't work, but neither will one for a 350 that's older than 86'. You need to find a flywheel weighted for a 400, but for a 1-piece rear main seal. There are companies that make a bolt on weight so you can use the 350 flywheel. Simply bolting the 350 flywheel to your 383 will cause an out of balance condition that will quickly eat bearings.

Tbi-MAX

BMonte, thanks for your quick reply again... Makes sense about the flywheel... I need a 1peice, 400 weighted. I will return the 350 flexplate locally today, and see what I can do.

I just checked summit site, and they dont have a 400 1 peice flexplate. So Im going to check my machine shop this morning.... maybe they can weight the flexplate for me?? to make it a 400? this will be the only thing stopping me from install, but ill do as much as I can. And break it in, like you said when its said and done....

if anyone has a link to flexplate please post it, ill be checking all day again.

Tbi-MAX

ok, i just got back in... well autozone/advance doesn't have any year flexplates that are 1 piece and 400 weighted... The lack of their knowledge kills me every time... no training at all.... Now I went by my machinist also... all the guys new exactly what I was talking about, without using a computer... but all the strokers they have done were internal balanced, not external. OR 2 piece external balanced....

They made a few good calls for me, we figured its hard to get a 1peice 400 weighted crank, with the 1 peice bolt pattern to fit my crank. The machinest can use my stock 350 flexplate, remove the weight, and re-weld the stock weight of a 400, to the flexplate. while aligning it correctly, by the pin he says.... he can do this in a 1hr he said. but ill have to wait till tonight, so it will be ready tmrw... my dilemma is I dont want to cut the summit flexplate just for the 400 weight, but if i find a old external balance plate from a scrap yard, ill get my weight off of that... if not, Ill have to use the new 400 2 piece...

I think this is the route Im going at this moment, unless I can find the 400 1peice today.. which I doubt..

BMonte, 1 of the companies they called for me, did also suggest what you said... about having to bolt weights to the current 350 flexplate... specifically for a eagle 383 1 piece crank. thats the 1st thing they said, when they knew what crank I had.

BMmonteSS

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/p/3262...flywheel%20383

This is what you need

Also keep in mind that you'll need a 400 specific balancer.

dimented24x7

iTrader: (2)

GM makes a high pressure regulator with enlarged passages and a larger return orafice and 28 PSI high pressure spring. This is available from autopartsgiant.com for 60 bucks or so. This and the walbro should feed just about anything.

You can also make a high pressure spring if you have a late model regulator. McMaster-Carr carries the springs. They need some modding, but I have one in my regulator and it works well.